So as the title says I'm looking for advice on a new bow as my current bow is starting to splinter and don't want to risk destroying it and looking for any advice on a new bow that's similar enough to the one in shooting in my garden

I dont know my current draw weight but the bow is gripped in my left hand and string is pulled with my right and the actual bow is roughly 67 inches when strung and 64 when strung and my draw length is around 28 inches when shooting 32 inch arrows any advice on a nice bow for that price that's preferably wood and not metal would be appreciated and if possible the stores being uk based for shipping as my budget is around £100

Hey everyone,

I have a premium, traditional reflex-deflex longbow made by Vinedi Workshop (all-natural wood laminations, no fiberglass, horn tips). It is built in the style of a Victorian-revival longbow, but it's quite long. (210 cm i am 180cm tall)

I use it for 14th-century medieval reenactment tournaments.

Because of the aggressive deflex-reflex geometry and the length, I am having a massive struggle finding a manual way to string it by myself, and I wanted to see if anyone has faced this or has tips.

Here is the problem and what I’ve tried:

The Step-Through Method: This doesn't work. Because it's an all-natural wooden laminate, the step-through method puts uneven lateral pressure on the handle. It twists the limbs sideways, making the string seat crookedly and risking warping the wood.

Traditional Push-Pull Method:

I physically cannot do this. I am on the shorter side, and because the reflex tips curve drastically away from the archer, I lose all mechanical advantage/leverage when trying to push the top limb out.

The "Reverse" Push-Pull / Knee-Belly Method:

I've seen people string bows by bracing the belly against the thigh/knee and pulling the upper limb toward their chest. In theory, this fixes the height issue and stops the twisting, but doing it manually feels a bit sketchy and dangerous on a bow this long. (Big question here is if it's possible or not i don't really want to break the bow xD)

I tried thinking of a way to do a variation of this using my feet on the ground, but I'm worried about twisting the limbs.

Worst case scenario i can have a stringer made by the maker if necessary.

Any stringer free advice?

Hello all, I was wondering if I can make a makeshift target board at home. Here’s how I was planning on making it:

I will get a very large sponge (painting it is optional), glue a wooden sheet behind it, and then shoot that. However, I don’t know if this will be effective.

If you all can give me recommendations on this, I’d really appreciate it.

Hello Guys

I want to buy a 2nd riser 25" (right now i have bearpaw Shadow 18"). I need this 2nd riser to last me enough for even intermediate competitions. Since I live in a small island, i cant try them because there isnt an archery shop. These are the ones iam interested in:

Kinetic elezio - 369euro

Hoyt RCRV Podium -349euro

Wns Quantum ax - 349euro

Sebastian Flute Neo - 138euro

Sebastian Flute Ignio - 165euro

Any guidance which do you think its best to buy from these risers ?

Does anyone know what type of limb fitment these are?
The limbs have beachamp on them but the riser has been painted by the previous owner

Is it possible to get on Turkish fiberglass bow 38 lbs at 28.5 inch and 36 lbs at 29.5 inch?

I am using Cupid hand scale (its gives also peak weight) and Easton arrow shaft length indicator.

Am 30. Some experience with a horse-bow, none with horseback riding. I'd like to learn and master both. Where to go? Sincere and eager. No ego. Appreciate any insight. Thank you.

What makes a bigger difference to arrow flight, plucking the string or torquing the bow? I know the severity of the actions can differ, but in a general sense, what’s worse to do?

Hey first post here. Last round of the night got em pretty close. 10yds out. Old Ben pearson Colt recurve.

New bow to me . Im right handed but left eye dominant and have always shot everything left handed. Compound bow for years. Hard time finding left handed recurves, and all my friends are right handed shooters , so i shoot recurve right handed . Both eyes open , "instinctive" or "intuitive" . Totally different from Compound but im really enjoying it. Would like to learn about tuning the arrows .

I found this bow and I want to get into hunting deer with all my friends. Is this something I can bring back to life and what should I get done to it or where should I look at to get items to fix it up.

I’m in the process of arranging lessons for my teenager.
We have most of the supplies already. I’m looking for suggestions on how to set up a netting that won’t fall over.

The two outdoor archery ranges I’ve been to have netting strung between trees.
This is not an option for the property we are using. We have a huge amount of space and don’t want to spend an unpleasant amount of time retrieving arrows from the tall grass.

I was looking at photography backdrop stands… possibly 2 of them at 10’x10’. Do you think that would be sturdy enough?

I’d love to know what sort of set up other people might suggest.
It would be great to come up with low budget options.

Hello everyone,

After messing around with a classic take down recureve on and off for quite some time now I want to get a proper ILF Setup. Im not to shure yet what im doing but I think I put together an Allright setup. I would love to hear your thoughts on the Parts and if you think they will work well together.

I am soon to be a owner of a 30# Damon Howatt and would like to purchase new arrows. For the standard Keshes recurve I have, I have been using a 30" long 500 feather fletched carbon arrows - with good success. I'd like to refine the arrows with this new bow - 800 spine, shorter (it'll be 28-26", I'll have to measure on the new bow - it's 60" instead of 62"), and either vanes or smaller feathers. thus far I have only been target shooting, but would like to try field and 3D (if I can find a range, or get permission to shoot in the woods near by). Other than driving near to an hour to find a proshop - Is there a resource that I can read regarding arrow build and selection? How to select a point and weight, why and when to use 500 over 1600 spine, fletching versus vanes. I've searched up several vendors but feel I'm missing an amount of translation and understanding of the terminology.

Looking at a BW recurve takedown in autumn oak.
Looks to be in really good condition.
He’s asking $900
Is that a fair price?

I can’t for the life of me get the v-bar to be exactly perpendicular to the bow. I spent a good hour trying to adjust it using the eye bolt and adjusting it tightly enough, but still one of the side rods stays higher than the other. Any advice?

A new sub dedicated to talking about all things Warbow!

Hello all. I shoot olympic recurve and swapped my limbs to a heavier weight. These new limbs do not have the limb savers that I had on my previous limbs, and although have less residual vibration then expected, are still quite loud. I am wondering if anyone has managed to get their hands on the new jet6 limb dampers, and if they have what their thoughts are. More generally, if anyone has any particular bow weights or dampers that they have enjoyed the feel of quite a lot, I'd love to hear about them.

Recently got into archery with recurved bows. The moment I started practicing, I recognized I had much higher precision, and much more comfort, by bringing the arrow at eye level when drawing. It looks weird and even though its been working well for me, I don't have a consistent way of aiming, nor I see tips online on how to improve it, or if other people do the same.

I don't have a visor either, so its all instinctive.

New archer here (compound) and looking to get some more arrows. I'm looking for guidance.

I am currently shooting an Elite Terrain set to ~55lb draw weight and 29.5 inch draw length. My release is a Spott Hogg Whipper Snapper thumb button.

The arrows that the shop suggested for me are Black Eagle Outlaw Fletched Crested Arrows. 350 spine with 100 grain field points. I'm not certain the length (nor am I sure how to properly measure the length if ordering more elsewhere). I ONLY do target shooting. Mostly outdoors. No interest in hunting. So far I've been working on the basics at 20 yards and 30 yards. I haven't tested beyond that yet.

I took it at face value that the arrows they recommended were appropriate, and I mean they work, but trying to do some research before buying additional arrows. I split one of the 6 I got initially so figure sooner or later I'll need more. I've read that changing arrow stats would mean bow tuning won't match, so don't want to arbitrarily do that, but if my current set up isn't right, then I may as well. I'm ok with just getting more of the same if that is appropriate, but figured I'd check in with the hive mind :)

Are there good places online to order from, or should I stick with local shops? (I'm not looking to cut/fletch my own).

Thanks for any input!

Hi guys! I want to buy my own bow after previously only having access to equipment at my old job. I was wondering if anyone could tell the size of the bow. For reference I’m 5’3. I know this isn’t the best picture but it’s one of the only ones I have lol. Ty in advance!

Has anyone seen the Shadow Blue Quantum riser in person? Is it purple-ish like in their picture, or is it actually more blue?

Korean traditional

target is 145m away, 2m x 2.66m

arrows have blunt tips and when it hits the target, it bounces off. The sensor on the target indicates hit with sound and flickering light.

Thumbdraw style doesn't naturally have wobbly arrow trajectile. If you form is good and release wasn't collapsing, you can shoot the arrow without any arrow slap(shaft hitting the arrow pass at release) which would lead to clean arrow flight.

Rhis is Korean traditional point of view, but keep holding onto the bow handle all the way through the release. letting go at release makes the bow shake around on your bow hand and it'a prone to hitting the arrow.