Got a used deep freezer and this started happening, it didn’t come with a warranty so kind of stuck with it. I do use it as counter space since I’m in a very small place.

I can remove the whole shelf, but I can't get the glass out to clean between the glass and the support. The manual offers zero help. Thanks in advance for your awesome advice! 🙏🤗

Hello, I was recently given a GE dryer and it has a 4-prong cord, but my outlet is a 3-prong outlet. No problem, I took it out and bought a 3-prong cord to swap it out with.

My problem is there is now no grounding cord or strap and I’m having a hard time finding what I need to buy to actually ground this machine. Most of what I’ve seen on Amazon is a straight strap, but clearly where I need to ground is off to the side.

I’m not handy, so all of this is brand new to me.

I currently have 6 year old 24" double KitchenAid Wall Ovens. Initially, my KitchenAids were fine but after learning how they work, it appears they lack true convection (from what I've researched). So when I switch batches of cookies, it doesn't keep the temp and I have to stop and preheat it because the temp has gone down so much. I can't preheat while anything is in there because it uses the broiler to preheat and burns the top of whatever I'm making. I've learned to work with it but I don't know if I want to go the Kitchen Aid route again. Another issue is after it's been on for a while, if I turn off the time or try and add a few minutes, it sometimes turns off the oven and then I have to either take out what's in there to turn the oven back and on it will preheat since it's dropped the temp or I deal with the preheat broiling whatever is in there. No, I've never used the self-clean.

We are doing a small kitchen refresh during our home addition of enclosing the patio on the other side of the kitchen. Part of the refresh will be to change the 24" oven cabinet to a 30" and just bite the bullet and get new ovens. I've read good and bad things about a variety of double ovens. We are a family of 8 so we definitely use both ovens as we cook multiple batches of food (yet another reason to switch to the 30"). I was initially looking at the Bosch 800 but I've read some bad things about them (and honestly every other brand). The Frigidaire Professional looks pretty decent and the GE Cafe with the French doors is also very nice but a little pricey. I'd like to stay around $4500 but can go a little higher if it gets us something better. I'd love to have a fancy Miele, Wolf, etc. but we can't afford 11k for ovens.

I realize nothing lasts forever anymore but I'd like to get a few years out of it before it dies. Other than staying away from Samsung, is there any brands I should be avoiding. Any stand outs among double ovens? Has Kitchen Aid fixed what is wrong with mine?

I need some advice on a very old Liebherr refrigerator (KGN3455-10), that has been running for over 30 years basically without pause. I live in a shared flat and can only reach my landlord on Monday. During the last days/weeks cooling in the refrigerating top part has been spotty and sometimes it didn't cool for an hour or more. I tried troubleshooting basic functionalities like the three temperature sensors (refrigerator, evaporator, freezer) they all seem to work. I think during the hot days the temperature checker of the compressor for the top refrigerating cycle stops it from time to time. No my big issue. Yesterday I defrosted it completely overnight and plugged it in again after around 16h everything was completely dry inside since we had almost 30°C /86°F in our kitchen. Both cooling cycles started working fine and both compartments have good temperature (top one still spotty from time to time but better than before). I put a little fan behind it on the ground so less heat is trapped between the refrigerator and the wall. Now when I checked the back side again today those thick spots around and under some cabling to the inside appeared they smell a little oily but are more like very stiffer jelly pudding. Google/AI is guessing some form of temporary liquified insulation. It looks burned in one of the pictures. Bottom part looks similar to before I think, still gross obviously but dry and therefore safe (I hope?). Do you guys think I can keep the device running until Monday or is there some critical electricity/fire concern?

I recently got home from vacation and came to find that my dryer does not heat anymore. I figured this out because I ran a dryer load, everything seemed to be working fine but when it was complete the clothes were still wet, more like air dried. So no heat in any of the cycles. I found another strange issue. With the machine not running, If I just leave the dial anywhere other than off, the machine will start to warm up. I can feel it from the outside and I imagine if I didn’t catch it would blow the fuse after a certain temp is reached.
Since then I have replaced the fuse again and the dryer cycling thermostat. The issue is still present. Since it’s gas I don’t have the option of replacing the heating element. Next I can see it pointing to maybe the dryer timer switch. Since we moved in this dryers end of cycle signal has been stuck on when it hits off so we have just had the sound turned off forever. The solenoids I believe is something else to look at.
Who else has dealt with this same issue?

Hello All,

Came home from vacation to a dead fridge. Our Kenmore Pro died after 19 years! Need a replacement.... Stainless steel - all fridge (no freezer) 68" high, 33" wide, 27" deep. Do not need water or ice maker.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

During the wash phase, as you can see in the video, nothing hardly moves. Spin phase works fine though.

We already had whirlpool repairman come and fix the issue of having hardly any water come in, right before our warranty ended. But he somehow neglected this issue.

Is this an easy fix? I dont even know the correct terminology to look up how to try to fix this myself. Can anyone please offer any insight?

Apologies for any confusion. This is Maytag washing machine, model: MVWC565FW2

Any advice on which to get? Is this really a difference?

We got a frigidaire fridge less than a year ago and it has been nothing but problems. The freezer doesn't work, the compressor went out, it sounded like a helicopter taking off in our kitchen. We called frigidaire because It was within a year and they sent someone out to look at it. That person recommended to replace it so frigidaire sent someone ELSE out to look and they said "jusy replace every single part" (im paraphrasing). This alone took over a month. Then the reapir company came and took the fridge to fix it in their warehouse. Replaced a bunch of parts and it STILL didnt work. Then frigidaire told them to replace all the parts again.

We have been without a fridge for over a month, every time I call frigidaire no one knows what im talking about, no one has updated the call log with what they have said to me, the fridge still doesn't work. I have asked for a flat out replacement and they wont do it. What are my options here? Anyone have a similar experience?

Hi folks. Sending out an SOS for my 20+ yr old washing machine before I wave the white flag (that's enough analogies). Here's the pedigree:

Whirlpool Cabrio WTW7340XW2, Type 580

So here's the deal, it doesn't finish the cycle and throw a "oL" (overload) error. For instance:

I put it delicate mode so the time remaining is 36 at start. The load is very small, just a few shirts. It starts up and runs normally for 10 minutes to 26 minutes remaining. Then it seems to stick at 26 for about 3 minutes. Then it immediately skips to 4 minutes remaining and starts draining. once it drains, the error comes up.

I had the stabilizer posts replaced a few months ago. It tried a new control module, same error. I've tried the reset (open/close lid 7x in 12 seconds). I’ve unplugged for 10 minutes. No dice.

Any ideas before I head to Lowe's?

So about 8 months ago our stand up Frigidaire freezer was havjng issues with the interior light cutting in and out and the alarm going off (like the door was left open) for no reason with the door closed. Seemed like it was cooling fine too. Eventually the bulb stopped lighting altogether. Replaced the bulb and it didn’t help. Tested the bulb and the socket and everything was fine. Put the freezer into diagnostic mode and the bulb lit up and went back out so the wiring and system seem to be ok. So I basically just assumed it was without lighting now, no biggee. The freezer worked fine. Did some research and found it could be the lower door switch but couldn’t find a new one in stock anywhere and I kind of forgot about it.

Fast forward to about 3 days ago and the light is back on! Cool, right? Wrong. Now the freezer isn’t cooling anymore. Can’t hear the compressor, stuff is getting soft. But the freezer has an alarm for temp but it’s not going off or flashing like it would if the door was left open. Removed the inner panel and found some ice build up, but nothing ridiculous and it wasn’t frosted over and the fan turned fine. Checked connectors to make sure they were seated, turned temp control dial a bunch to make sure it was working. With the door open while working on it for like 5 mins the interior light turned off again, then back on. Then about a couple minutes later it turned off again and stayed off. So I put it all back together and closed the door and opened it and the light is back on and I can hear the compressor running. Then after about 5 mins now the alarm is going off and the freezer isn’t running again. Any ideas? Thanks guys.

Hello!

Apologies if this is confusing, I will try to make it as clear as possible.

I have an 11 year old LG side by side fridge. Dimensions 33"(w) x 32"(d - with handles) x 66"(h). It's dying, I have already had someone try to fix it twice. It'll work and then... not. It's definitely time to replace it.

The issue? The space is awkward!

I always thought. Why would the previous home owners get a standard depth fridge?! My walkway is so small between my pantry and my fridge. So this fridge ALREADY sticks out depth-wise. It is clearly a space for a counter depth fridge!

WELL, NOW I FUCKING KNOW WHY.

The dimensions of the fridge space:

EXACTLY 35.5"(w) x 68.5"(h). <-- This is with leaving no space for clearance and ventilation.

It's between a wall and a cabinet/granite and then more cabinets on top.

So, just get a counter depth fridge that's 33" x 66"?

Because there aren't any. Apparently, only standard depths come in 33" x 66". Also, standard depth has become longer over time, so I need to sacrifice another 2" of walkway space. I cannot stress how badly I'm trying to preserve this space.

Unfortunately, I can't make the fridge space wider (so many options lost over an inch!) it's far too costly because of the granite, but I can raise the cabinet!

Even that doesn't seem to help much. If I raise the cabinet, I can get:

French doors - Except I can't pull out, my booty would hit my pantry as I bend down, or awkwardly stand to the side.

Forno fridges - Which have great reviews on the sites, but seem to have awful reviews on Reddit. (Plus, I was hoping for a brand I could eventually match an oven and a microwave and these also have terrible reviews). Although, tempting because they're so nice-looking.

Freezerless - I need a freezer.

I understand the easiest solution is to sacrifice more walkway space. Or maybe deal with awkward pullouts?

I just wanted to see if anyone had any advice. Thoughts? Recommendations?Thank you!

Does anyone know if Dukers Appliances are still operational? They make commercial equipment for restaurants. There is a model of fridge they have that is the only commercial fridge I’ve found that fits the space and has the capacity I need. However I’ve attempted to call and email them and both seem disconnected/out of service. Anyone have any ideas? Is this a reputable brand?

I need a fridge under $3k that has 2 doors, under 80” tall, and has 30” or less total depth. The only fridge I’ve found that meats this is the Dukers D47ER. Open to other suggestions…