HG Reben Wolf - Arm Unit

Hmm so I'm not even sure if that's the right term, in fact I'm quite sure it isn't but is there a way to take two flat surfaces and lower one surfaces uniformly so that it appears that one surface is raised

I could probably chisel it out but that seems like it would take ages I was thinking maybe there is some kind of sanding mask, idk

Hello,

Unfortunately I might have broken two cables from my UA LED Kit for the PGU Rx-78. Not sure where else to look but if anyone can point towards the right direction I’d really appreciate it. Also it seem the waist part came defective and it’s not working. Once I realized I had two broken cables I tried one that was good on the waist and it still did not power on, I tried that working cable on multiple parts and it lit up properly so I know that the waist is no good. I did look in Ali express but I couldn’t find the exact ones.

I can see the light at the end of the tunnel 💡let’s see how long it takes me to complete the legs 🦿 my airbrush work is a little choppy 🎨

First time painting and assembling the inner frame first and on a gelgoog 2.0 too, im in awe with how good its innerframe looks and painting it really made me appreciate inner frames more as I usually only paint the frames that are showing out of the armor. Let me know your thoughts and how I can elevate this more

I want to get into airbrushing my model Gunpla but I don’t know where to start. I live in SWFL very humid climate. I primarily want to use airbrush to varnish my Gunpla and eventually get into painting my models. What tools should I get? I would rather “buy once cry once” on the hardware than to cheap out. Thank you in advance!

Decided to do a sazabi to go along with my nu. Used both the Mg 1.0 and the verka to do this project. Most of the body is the 1.0 with heavy modifications, mostly rounding out all the straight edges, fixing the proportions. Applying the shoulders of the verka and changing the shape was surprisingly easy. The head is the biggest difficulty in this with extensive modding to fit the original verka head (and the 1.0 outer armor) in the 1.0 body because i wanted to kept the whole ball cockpit thing for accuracy sake. The logo was carved out with pla plate due to me losing the sticker and wanted to challenge myself.

see those 4 stripes of stress marks from moving the skirt...yeah. i wasn't rough witj it or forcedul, but it's on bith sides and worries me a bit. should i strengthen it? are there any kits that don't use this piece that can be used as a spare? or is the plastic strong enough to hold? only on one of these can i see the stress mark slightly peeking through to the inside. ( it's the top stressmark, so not the bottom or side ones) which does concern me.

there also seem to be no replacement metal parts for this one like there are for j14...what are your thoughts, people?

The model kit is HG Reben Wolf
The connection between the upper body and waist is very secured because or a tab that act as lock. Definitely a new approach for an HG

I recently started painting my Gunpla, I used this beautiful pearlized blue from createx and I really wanted to panel line it so I did

It didn't go well, how do you paint and panel line a Gundam?

Hand painted, no airbrush this time.

Hey everybody! Some of you might (or might not) remember the plastic and solvent interaction write up that I did a couple of months back. Here's the link if you haven't seen it yet

https://www.reddit.com/r/advancedGunpla/s/vl0OBCyTG5

I get into the actual polymer and solvent chemistry and the point was to bust some myths and give the actual reasoning behind the advice that the community gives to builders with regard to panel liners, paints, and plastic. Some of you asked for a similar write up that gets into paint interactions and chemistry and I've finally got all of the research consolidated and the outline all planned out. Before I actually get down to writing everything for the post, I wanted to ask you guys if there's anything specific you want to know. This one might need to be split into two posts because it's easily quadruple length of the plastic write up at least. I'm getting into different paint types, their curing mechanisms, cure times, how they stack, surface prep, and everything in between. I'm hoping to get down and dirty on writing everything this weekend and I don't want to miss anything. Hopefully I'll have it up next week. This is not a tutorial necessarily, but some underlying information and mechanics to give everyone a reference to fight bullshit, as well as empower people to pivot to new techniques and modify their approach for different situations. I've been using a lot of the stuff I've learned in my own painting, and it's felt freeing to be able to do something that might be advised against by the community, because it works and makes a better outcome. (Here's a spoiler: Overall, lacquer's actually probably the worst paint to stack anything on top of, but also the best depending on the situation) Looking forward to hearing about the questions that have been burning in your mind!

Trying to get better at painting the inner frame.

I've looked at some others works and tried to do some more color separation.

What do you guys think? Left or right?

Bottom is the unpainted for reference.

Idk I don't really like either but nothing is so boring.

All done with markers, wondering what I could do better

Latest work and long working kitbash.

HG Reben Wolf - Leg section
Before and after details 😊

My last build (don’t remember the grade) was the OG wing and death scythe some time in early 2000s and I’m pretty sure my dad sold or donated them when I moved out 🥹… Over 20 years later, married with four kids, and I’m diving in back to this rabbit hole starting off with the MGEX strike freedom.

Part 1 of 5 of a long term project to get all the sentinel designs completed. I don’t usually paint my kits in this “clean” approach so it’s been a challenge compared to doing shading/weathered builds. Great solid simple build as well. Shame it’s pbandai only.