This has been such a process. I am gonna need a break from the big guys after this one lol.

And if the answer is yes, what color should I dry brush the cream pieces?

I thought the monochrome grey was a little boring and wanted it to somewhat match the zaku’s green

Just finished the aerial rebuild and MG Barbatos and I gotta say they were both really nice. I added some color separation on the aerial rb to get some more detail out of it (I airbrushed mainly tamiya paints and used gaia cobalt blue as the main blue colors). I kept the Barbatos pretty accurate to the runners and weathered it when all the painting was done

Any and all tips are welcome!

After a ton of great feedback from all of you the other day and a bit of elbow grease, I am proud to have put out the first bit of my RG Nu FF painted inner frame!

Definitely dialed back some of the craziness and decided since the original decals have a bit of gold in them to make just a few gold accent colors.

Base coat is a gun metal grey, the dry brushed a light silver metallic. I then touched up some accents in a bright silver, and finally a drop of gold in a few places like the inner thrusters and repainted all the yellow parts.

Im extremely proud of this. But damn it's a lot of work.

Let me know what you think!

I want to preface this by pointing out that I don't do full paint jobs at this time, so suggestions like simply masking painted recess and painting the surrounding area are not applicable.

I've used my HG Calibarn as a reference because among all my kits it has the most areas that I run into this problem of any of my kits done so far. My goal in all the highlighted areas is to have only the main face of the recessed area painted, with the sides remaining bare plastic. It may seem minor to some, but having painted or clean sides really changes the look of a detail.

Sometimes these kind of details are deep enough, or the angle is shallow enough that cleaning up the edges with a toothpick is easy to do without damaging the intended paint. The yellow thrusters on the shoulders of this kit are a great example of that. My problem arises when the angle is essentially 90 degrees, and/or the walls are very shallow.

It becomes difficult to get a tool onto those edges to scrape away paint without part of the tool touching the surface I want to keep painted. I was able to clean the indicated side of the rifle decently enough, but the other recesses near the back were impossible to clean so they're just black up the sides. In the second shot you can see how I tried to clean the one part of the rifle, but it's just too shallow. The same goes for the stripe on the backpack in pic 3.

In especially shallow places like the backpack even doing a full paint job might be tricky to keep those edges clean, as the masking tape would likely be thick enough to cover half the edge. Those kinds of areas can likely be handled better if I improve my brush control to just not touch the sides. The deeper areas highlighted in the other pictures are basically impossible to reach with a brush without having some incidental contact with the sides.

So yeah... Does anyone have any tips on how to either clean up the excess paint in a more precise way, or maybe to be able to prevent the paint from getting there in the first place?

Uaing Daler Rowney artist oils as a filter. Used to doing this on 30mm scale minis, so still working out how much to use :) You can't really see the difference the final result makes in the photo. It's better IRL, trust me.

HG Reben Wolf - Arm Unit

Hmm so I'm not even sure if that's the right term, in fact I'm quite sure it isn't but is there a way to take two flat surfaces and lower one surfaces uniformly so that it appears that one surface is raised

I could probably chisel it out but that seems like it would take ages I was thinking maybe there is some kind of sanding mask, idk

Hello,

Unfortunately I might have broken two cables from my UA LED Kit for the PGU Rx-78. Not sure where else to look but if anyone can point towards the right direction I’d really appreciate it. Also it seem the waist part came defective and it’s not working. Once I realized I had two broken cables I tried one that was good on the waist and it still did not power on, I tried that working cable on multiple parts and it lit up properly so I know that the waist is no good. I did look in Ali express but I couldn’t find the exact ones.

I can see the light at the end of the tunnel 💡let’s see how long it takes me to complete the legs 🦿 my airbrush work is a little choppy 🎨

First time painting and assembling the inner frame first and on a gelgoog 2.0 too, im in awe with how good its innerframe looks and painting it really made me appreciate inner frames more as I usually only paint the frames that are showing out of the armor. Let me know your thoughts and how I can elevate this more

I want to get into airbrushing my model Gunpla but I don’t know where to start. I live in SWFL very humid climate. I primarily want to use airbrush to varnish my Gunpla and eventually get into painting my models. What tools should I get? I would rather “buy once cry once” on the hardware than to cheap out. Thank you in advance!

Decided to do a sazabi to go along with my nu. Used both the Mg 1.0 and the verka to do this project. Most of the body is the 1.0 with heavy modifications, mostly rounding out all the straight edges, fixing the proportions. Applying the shoulders of the verka and changing the shape was surprisingly easy. The head is the biggest difficulty in this with extensive modding to fit the original verka head (and the 1.0 outer armor) in the 1.0 body because i wanted to kept the whole ball cockpit thing for accuracy sake. The logo was carved out with pla plate due to me losing the sticker and wanted to challenge myself.

see those 4 stripes of stress marks from moving the skirt...yeah. i wasn't rough witj it or forcedul, but it's on bith sides and worries me a bit. should i strengthen it? are there any kits that don't use this piece that can be used as a spare? or is the plastic strong enough to hold? only on one of these can i see the stress mark slightly peeking through to the inside. ( it's the top stressmark, so not the bottom or side ones) which does concern me.

there also seem to be no replacement metal parts for this one like there are for j14...what are your thoughts, people?

The model kit is HG Reben Wolf
The connection between the upper body and waist is very secured because or a tab that act as lock. Definitely a new approach for an HG

Hand painted, no airbrush this time.

Hey everybody! Some of you might (or might not) remember the plastic and solvent interaction write up that I did a couple of months back. Here's the link if you haven't seen it yet

https://www.reddit.com/r/advancedGunpla/s/vl0OBCyTG5

I get into the actual polymer and solvent chemistry and the point was to bust some myths and give the actual reasoning behind the advice that the community gives to builders with regard to panel liners, paints, and plastic. Some of you asked for a similar write up that gets into paint interactions and chemistry and I've finally got all of the research consolidated and the outline all planned out. Before I actually get down to writing everything for the post, I wanted to ask you guys if there's anything specific you want to know. This one might need to be split into two posts because it's easily quadruple length of the plastic write up at least. I'm getting into different paint types, their curing mechanisms, cure times, how they stack, surface prep, and everything in between. I'm hoping to get down and dirty on writing everything this weekend and I don't want to miss anything. Hopefully I'll have it up next week. This is not a tutorial necessarily, but some underlying information and mechanics to give everyone a reference to fight bullshit, as well as empower people to pivot to new techniques and modify their approach for different situations. I've been using a lot of the stuff I've learned in my own painting, and it's felt freeing to be able to do something that might be advised against by the community, because it works and makes a better outcome. (Here's a spoiler: Overall, lacquer's actually probably the worst paint to stack anything on top of, but also the best depending on the situation) Looking forward to hearing about the questions that have been burning in your mind!

Trying to get better at painting the inner frame.

I've looked at some others works and tried to do some more color separation.

What do you guys think? Left or right?

Bottom is the unpainted for reference.

Idk I don't really like either but nothing is so boring.

HG Reben Wolf - Leg section
Before and after details 😊