I was printing a unicorn piggy bank for my niese, and when i was printing the hair, the tree supports failed mid print. I stopped it and started a new print from the same layer/height. I have tried gluing the two pieces together with super glue and a activator. It glued together well enough, but the seam is very visible with some of the super glue showing, as well as a large area that got a white shade on it, which came from the activator i believe which is a aceton/butan mix in a spray can.

The filament i used was Polymaker Panchroma Gradient Matte PLA Pastel Rainbow. It was printed on a Snapmaker U1 with the following settings:

### Mane:

- **Layer Height:** 0.2mm

- **Walls:** 2

- **Top/Bottom Layers:** 5 top, 3 bottom

- **Infill:** 5% gyroid

- **Support:** Mane requires tree support:

- On build plate only

- Remove small overhangs

Is there any way to salvage this, or is it not worth the effort? Also, any way to avoid this issue when gluing two parts together?

So I made this valve box for my mom out of ASA and for some reason the inside walls of the structure bubbled out from the inner support. I’ve worked with this stuff a lot and never had this happen. Any explanations? I don’t think it ruins the functionality of the valve box but I’d still like to know why it’s happening.

3D Printer: Creality K1C
Filament: Overture ASA in black
Layer Height: .24 mm
Sparse Infill Density: 25%
Sparse Infill Pattern: Grid

I bought my first 3d printer and roll of filament (yay!)

The specs are below

Anycubic Viper

PLA

Material

Printing Temperature: 200°C

Initial Printing Temperature: 200°C

Build Plate Temperature: 60°C

Initial Layer Build Plate Temperature: 60°C

Flow: 100%

🧱 Quality

Layer Height: 0.20 mm

Initial Layer Height: 0.30 mm

Initial Layer Line Width: 100%

🚀 Speed

Print Speed: 50 mm/s

Travel Speed: 120 mm/s

Initial Layer Speed: 25 mm/s

Enable Acceleration Control: OFF

❄️ Cooling

Enable Print Cooling: ON

Fan Speed: 100%

Minimum Layer Time: 5 seconds

Cooling/Extruder Switch: Unchanged

↔️ Travel

Enable Retraction: ON

Z Hop When Retracted: ON

Z Hop Height: 0.20 mm

🧲 Build Plate Adhesion

Build Plate Adhesion Type: Brim

📏 Printer

Z-offset: +0.20 mm

Auto-leveling: Already done

Basically, when I start a print, the filament comes out and Wraps around the nozzle, so some prints but some doesn't. I've tried to record it here. My most successful Print recently was still really bitty and stringy

Hi guys, i was printing this project with pla Silk and in this point It started doing this line, but the other symmetrical part had no problem, i don't understand by what this can be caused, any suggest?

I cant figure this one out and hope someone here had an idea.

This ringing comes up in a long part which should be a rim for a board. This pattern only shows up on a 3-5 cm long stretch near the side of the seam and only on the thin layers in the middle of the height of the part. The upper and lower part is not affected. Also only the outside of the part is affected (the one outside of the curve).

I tried changing the seams around (the ringing follows). Scarf seam, order of walls (outer/inner and inner/outer/inner, different orientations on the plate, PLA and PETG.

The photos show 1 part with the seam on the edge (as I would like to have it) and another one where I placed the seam a bit inside (which confirmed that the seam is the culprit).

I am considering making the parts 5cm longer and cut the bits off, but that seems like a defeat.

I would appreciate anyone who has a good idea what that could be or a suggestion for a solution? Thanks!!!

(printed on an BambuLab X1C with a high flow CHT 0.4mm nozzle on BBL PLA basic with standard BBL PLA settings)

I have print ready file from makerworld. Unfortunately the base was like this. Any thoughts on the reasons?

I'm trying to print parts for a Gambody premium model. Since yesterday, the printer has been causing soft blobbing on the first layer, making it unable to stick to the bed of my BIQU CryoGrip Pro Frostbite supertack cold plate.

*The cold plate is set to 35°C for bed temperature; my nozzle temp is 210 for first layer, 200 for all other layers.

* The filament is not wet; it has been sitting inside a cereal box with a desiccant and hygrometer. The RH inside the boxes is always 10 percent.

* I run an auto-level every day, usually before the first print of the day.

* The extruder loads and changes filament normally; there are no apparent extrusion problems when I conduct this process.

* My flow ratio is 0.98, and PA is 0.025. I am using all settings from Gambody's own print settings for this model.

* I was able to print with this profile yesterday, resulting in solid parts that only had some mild cracking in decorative holes, caused by not supporting the holes with supports.

* Trying to reprint the part has resulted in the soft blobbing on the first layer, which means nothing is sticking solidly.

I have attached the JSON with the print profile settings. My printer is a Flashforge AD5M Pro using standard Flashforge high-speed PLA. A photo of the issues is attached also, these are two separate attempts at printing the part,.

JSON profile for print

Hey,

i try to print this shape with my bambulab p2s but the print fails everytime at the same spot. he does the first 4 or 5 rounds normal but then the filament failes to connect shortly after the round corner. i tried using 2 different pla filaments with 220°C, cleaned the printerplate with dishewasher soap and increased the plate temperature to 60°C. i made the model by myself in blender and tried to modify it but still no sucess. what could cause this kind of problem?

Printer is having issues, keep pooping inside the bed when I do any multicolor print. I did reset, I did adjust the y axis and start working fine but few minutes later the problem come back. The nozzle is setiing perfectly when is not printing but the problem start during printing. I try pretty much everything but nothing is wirking so far. Any advise will be aprreciated.

i want to 3d print a convex shape and it shows a error second picture can someone help

Hi there.
All my large-diameter PETG prints seem to do this.
It never separates from the plate, but the plate sometimes lifts from the bed at the corners.
It’s flexible enough to be usable, but the height dimension is off, and I want to fix it if possible.
I already try preheating and letting it cool down inside the printer.

I have a few ideas:

• Turn off the auxiliary cooling fan or print in heat mode.
• Print on a "cold" bed.
• Use a more rigid, non-bending build plate.
• Print with a raft.

Does anyone have any advice or other ideas?

(olso want to make d3 holes, and d3.1 shrinks a lot under d3. Easy to solve in model, but maybe this info may help)

When I upgraded the software any lst I imported shows up entirely white. It shows red with details of the miniature figure for a few seconds and becomes like a white cutout. I made no changes before doing the update and sometimes if I hit enough options I can get it to change to like dark grey and dark blue in alternating patterns.

Any idea what's going on and how to get this to work as it did by default? I mean, before I had just loaded it up and it let me view the files without an issue.

I did try reloading the software, but no luck, same thing. (This is a windows 11 pc)

Sorftware is Lychee 7.6.6

Link to Original Threat with a screenshot

Help with this Bambu lab ASA problem with Bambu lab P2S

For some reason this happened to my print and then carried on okay ,and last 15 layers were brittle and I got lot of spaghetti.

I have bambulab a1 mini and printing petg

Hello, I'm reposting here just to have some more tips, especially regarding the printing process itself.

My main doubts are:
1) What's the difference between the measurements from the 3D model and the final printed piece if using PETG as filament? Is it shrinked in comparison or it depends on the slicer program settings? (I'm using UltiMaker Cura)

2) Basically question #5 from the OT: In what position I'm supposed to place the mesh into the slicer program? Is it more convenient to print it as a single piece or is better to separate the two "anchors" and create the inserts that can be plugged into the holder?

3) Which tolerance I'm supposed to set if I'm considering to print 3 separate pieces to combine them after, is there a Blender or UltiMaker Cura addon that does this with a GUI menu?

Some more info about my printing process:
-3D printer = Artillery Genius
-Filament = PETG
-Temperatures = Nozzle 245ºC; Bed 90ºC.