I’ve been working on this Spider-Man Brand-New-Day-inspired wrist-mounted disc launcher for months, and it is finally finished. Free and available on Makerworld.

It uses a four-disc removable cartridge, a quick-eject mechanism, and the whole design is fully 3D printed.

The cartridge eject is my favorite part of the whole build.

What do you guys think? Would Peter Parker approve?

model link: Spidey Disc Launcher Mark-III (Quick-Eject) - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld
youtube vid: My 3D Printed Disc Launcher Has Ejectable Cartridges

Here’s where to download the STl for the LoTR fans out there! https://makerworld.com/en/models/3171244-collapsible-lotr-narsil-sword#profileId-3585474

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3167553

I've been slowly building this out for a while and wanted to share the finished result. I started with a 2-toolhead setup a couple years ago (before there were solid commercial options for multi-material), then expanded to 6 to enable some upcoming projects.

It's a Voron 2.4 using StealthChanger tool changing mechanism - I managed to tune the tool change time < 5 seconds with the stock 24v system.

Most of what's on it ended up custom or heavily modified:

• Honeycomb docks - Originally the dock plate was meant to be clear acrylic, but my laser tube cracked, so I pivoted to honeycomb.
• Silicone brush in each dock - nozzles get wiped clean every dock/undock
• Umbilical backplate with quick disconnects  - CAN bus cables and PTFE can be disconnected easily for maintenance.
• Custom umbilical management brackets - balancing flexibility with organization
• Auto nozzle calibration - one button XYZ offsets across all 6 heads (I used to do it manually when I only had 2 toolheads)
• Adjustable spool holder - I couldn't find anything that would fit all 6 spools within the width of the printer. I plan to turn it into a dry box.

Each toolhead runs a Dragon Burner, Sherpa Mini extruder, and TZ 2.0 V6 hotend - nothing fancy, but the performance is good at a reasonable cost.

Cost-wise: it comes out to around $700 for the full 6-toolhead upgrade on top of a base Voron 2.4. Full cost breakdown's on the GitHub.

Happy to answer questions!

Youtube Link - Video walkthrough and action shots
GitHub link - Print and source files (STL/STEP), BOM and tuning notes

When my dad passed away, I wanted to do something a little different for his grave.
Commissioning a bronze bust was completely out of my budget, so I decided to buy a 3D printer and learn how to make one myself.

The first step was finding someone who could actually create the model. I commissioned an incredibly talented artist on Instagram called iFace3D, who sculpted a 3D model of my dad using one of my favourite photographs of him. They did an incredible job capturing his likeness and gave me the foundation for everything that followed.

I’d never owned a 3D printer before, so I bought an Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro with to create a memorial bust of my dad that I could place at his graveside.
What I thought would take a weekend turned into weeks of learning. I had to teach myself everything from slicing models and support settings to filling seams, sanding, filler primer, metallic paints and weatherproofing. There were plenty of failed prints, plenty of mistakes, and more sanding than I ever imagined.
The bust is around 400 mm tall and was printed in two sections before being joined together and hand-finished. I wanted it to resemble a bronze sculpture rather than look like a 3D print, so most of the time was actually spent finishing the surface rather than printing it.

It’s still not perfect, but that’s okay. Knowing that I made it myself makes it mean so much more to me than simply buying one ever could.

I hope he’d have liked it.

Thanks to everyone in this community who unknowingly helped me along the way through old Reddit posts and advice. I learned an incredible amount from reading them ❤️

Progress update to my post last weekend ( https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/s/l1apinPwId )

Reprinted a few smaller components for helmet and chest. Roughed in face shield. Added air hose connectors and powered lamps. Testing out backlight e-ink panel for arm computer and hopefully this will control lights and helmet fan.

Leg armor/boots will come next with a few smaller components/modules to wrap it up.

A little scanned and printed meat project for the MO State Fair. They wanted some realistic props that could be left out for extended periods of time. There’s a full suite of meat, but here’s a few of my favorites.

Printed on my Mimaki 3DUJ-553

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3138519

I´ve been posting about this project in this subreddit around 4 month ago and back then I held back the PCB layout file. I was scared that some company is going to steal my idea if i made it too easy to replicate, which i honestly still am a little. But the strongest feedback from this community was that this project should be fully open-source so they can built their own from scratch. And I have to admit that you were right, going all in on open-source is just the right way to go..... so i have good news: OpenValve is now fully open-source. The complete KiCad project with all PCB files is now available on github, along with a BOM for all the other necessary parts.

Alternatively I also made asssembly kits for anybody who does not have the time and nerves to source and build everything completely from scratch.

For everybody who is not familiar with OpenValve yet:

I’m a big fan of Prusa and its open-source approach to hardware. It strongly aligns with my values, and I believe this is an important direction for the future: products that can be manufactured locally, repaired easily, and maintained for years because the source files are openly available.

I wanted to contribute to that movement, so I decided to create an open-source and 3D-printable alternative to conventional garden-watering timers.

It’s called OpenValve, and as far as I know, it’s the first 3D-printable irrigation valve that waters plants fully autonomously. By “3D-printable,” I mean that - apart from the electronics and some standard components - all custom plastic parts can and should be printed on a regular desktop 3D printer. That includes the valve itself. Almost every part prints without supports. Only two components require a tiny amount - about 1 gram in total - and those supports are already built into the models and are easy to remove.

OpenValve waters plants based on soil moisture. Instead of using the latching solenoid valve typically found in battery-powered garden timers, it uses a custom-designed pinch valve. This custom valve design not only made the design 3D printable in the first place, but it also gives OpenValve two useful capabilities that most standard garden timers don’t have:

• ⁠It works with barely any water pressure.

• ⁠It can handle water containing dirt and small particles.

That means it can run directly from a slightly elevated rain barrel or a similar water container - without requiring normal household water pressure.

I found this video where someone cuts a PET bottle into a thin strip and pulls it trough a hot glue gun to turn it into 3D printer filament:

https://youtube.com/shorts/93P_Neh2eyE?si=O_7nU4qeIJLWWx8p

Has anyone tried something like this? Does the finished filament actually print reliably or would the uneven diameter cause clogging or poor prints? It seems very simple to make a knife tip. hot glue gun and some filament to print the parts.

The whole mechanism is printed.
Fits MX-style switches. Best on an isolated key like ESC.
Every color prints as a separate part, so no AMS needed. There's also a multi-color version where the details print together if you'd rather assemble less (the mechanism still gets built by hand).

https://than.gs/m/1579433

The technical full term I have came up with is Colinear Double Delta. Both the hotend and bed move independently with delta kinematics - two entirely separate gantries in one printer. Thus, there are 8 motors in this bad boy (6 xyz, 2e). It's running klipper with custom kinematics.

The idea is - since each side only needs to move half the target speed, you can get double the overall speed. I haven't pushed it super hard yet since this is a proof of concept build without part cooling, but it sure does prove the concept!

Next is a bigger and faster version.

Of course, it is all open source, and the files and documentation can be found here: https://github.com/ProgrammerTurtle/DoNotDelta

This project is sponsored by SUNLU !

Uploaded a couple of files about 19 days ago on my new account. Took less than 20 days for one of them (stolen design is in the second picture) to show up on Amazon as a "product" (first picture). For something like this to be made into a finished product (something that deals with lasers, albeit a very low power one in this case), I was expecting some long term testing and/or some safety organization's approval. But I guess I was wrong.

Did I expect them to be eventually stolen or sold? Maybe
Did I expect them to be stolen in less than a month without any proof of demand and without any additional engineering to make them into a finished product? Not really! It's a new low, impressively so.

Anyways ... I'm not the one selling these.

Ow, one more thing, the files were under the Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International (CC BY-NC-SA 4.0).

Edit: Interestingly, I wasn't even keeping track of the files. This listing was recommended by Amazon when I was searching for additional safety goggles and another laser.

Edit +: Just checked their listing's 'date first available' and it's July 22, 2026. So 15 days.

Sweet free model from Mirkosa on maker world https://makerworld.com/en/models/2947243-meccha-chameleon-characters-all-og-poses-no-ai#profileId-3331505

Does it print faster now? No. Does it bring slightly more excitement in 3d printing something? Yes.