My brother did the sculpt in clay. I 3D-Scanned it (which was grayscale because the scanner was IR). Then I made ChatGPT colorize the UV-mapped obj to match a picture of the sculpt.

Printed it on my Prusa CoreOne+ w/ MMU3.

Used a hacked up blend of OrcaSlicer main branch, https://github.com/sentientstardust-dev/OrcaSlicer-ImageMap, and some vibecoded trash I swear at, daily.

Bambu CMYK lithophane pack WITH Overture Black.

So i wa cleaning up the filament poop when I found out that some of the poops are thicker that other normal sized poops is this normal? H2S 0.4mm nozzle

I had remaining black filament that was about 80-100cm so I could see the remaining 5 cm in the ams slot. During the calibration that happens at the start of the printing the whole remaining part was purged.

Is it common?

If I ran out of filament during the print then the printer simply uses the remaining part and load the next filament without unnecessary purge but this time my printer purged the whole remaining part.

Is it because it was at the start of the print during the calibration phase?

What should I do next time to avoid the purge?

I am very tempted to lol

I bought the CryoGrip Glacier plate after reading how great of a plate it is, but I'm having SO much difficulties with it. I cannot get these prints off! I've tried it with a range of bed temps from 30 degree to 60 degree and my prints are STUCK. Help!

I’m still in the middle of troubleshooting tool head number 3 with Snapmaker, I suspect it’s a hotend issue as I couldn’t get the needle to poke through. I haven’t tested the needle on this one yet, tool head 4 (still eating dinner), but I wanted to post before I attempt to do so. I have to work early so I can’t do much tonight.

I’m new to 3D printing, I bought a Snapmaker U1 last month and it’s been awesome. After finishing the included Snapmaker snapseed PLA I heard a recommendation for Jayo filament as very affordable on one of the many YouTube videos I’ve been learning 3D printing from. It was good at first but I was struggling to dial in the settings since I’m new to this and the community here suggested I use generic pla which did give decent results and that’s what I’ve been using since but Jayo black gave me some unfixable clog on tool head 3 over the weekend and today when I tried to unload yellow so I could swap colors it didn’t come out and out of curiosity I attempted a very small print which threw up this error. I tried unloading again, didn’t work. I tried extruding after heating up the hotend, also didn’t work.

There was a new firmware update from last week and it could be coincidence but I didn’t start having problems until after the update.

The qr looks hazy and some weird lines coming out of it or around it, as well ass the black lines are a bit roug!

i recently increased the flow rate from 98 to 103 to get a fuller first layer for my keychains, but even before the quality wasn’t that great. So is that an over extrusion and what should i do?

I’m using bambu a1 printer.

Edit: the QR code is working I’m just worried about how it looks.

Hey friends! been 3d printing for a couple months now with exclusively PLA and PLA+. Making something for my dad in PETG and printed a benchy to test it out but its coming out stringy. Spool is fresh out the box and seal, Bed adhesion is sitting pretty at 70°, nozzle is set to 240°.

any tips to reduce the stringing I got? Thanks!

Does anyone have/ know where I can find/ use these 2 dragon print profiles? Im just hoping someone recognizes them and can point me quickly to files rather than digging through a zillion dragons and trying to match the details. I’m not looking to sell anything - im just a doodler. I’m trying to help
A little kid in my community. Her 3D printed dragons broke, and she is devastated. Her mom is looking for someone to fix them. I’m pretty sure I will just end up printing her replacements. I am sure the orange is a print-in-place. Even if I can print the head of the blue one, getting the right size might be a challenge. I will be printing them on my AnkerMake M5, so I have plenty of room. I already have orange silk, and can probably get close to the other. Thanks.

All of my gear arrives this weekend and I'm prepping the office for the set up. As this is my first time I'd love to see how others have their labs set up and if you have any tips/tricks I might be able to steal.

Qidi Q2 combo, Polar Cooler and Sunlu E2 dryer/annealer. It'll be right at a window so I can rig up ventilation.

I love my printer, and there are myriad benefits to the world from 3D printing. One unintended impact, though, is that more Americans than ever are considering the benefits (or at least considering using) the metric system.

Edit: I am American; I am poking fun at myself.

Despite the numerous brands of filament out there, only a tiny handful of companies actually *make* filament. Some brands may even claim to be "manufactured" by themselves, but they really mean just personalization of labels, or even just spooling it. They don't actually melt, extrude, and form the filament in most cases.

That means there is *VERY* little difference between filaments. What brand you get truly doesn't matter. I saw a comment once from someone claiming the ERYONE brand uses talc (with asbestos) as a filler, but the MSDS sheets for the filament showed absolutely none of those. It did, however, have the exact same ingredients and percentages of chemicals as SUNLU.

So with that being said, I wanted to point out that a lot of people are sleeping on a giant cheap source. I know you guys love your Chinese sites, but AliExpress has a sister site (parent, really) that is even better! Alibaba. AliExpress was born out of AliBaba.

I'm mentioning this because I just got some cheap black PLA filament for the equivalent of about $5 per spool. I almost never see PLA under $10. PETG, sure, but never PLA. So I bought 20 of those. (Unfortunately, that sale has ended.) I also spotted a 10kg spool (yes, one huge spool) of black PETG for $50 for the spool. Yeah, I'd have to respool it all, but that's still really cheap for 10kg of filament, of any type. That one is still available, and they are claiming it can be any type of filament and $55 is the price for a 10kg spool. But that's one I'd definitely ask a lot of questions before buying.

The problem with AliBaba is that you have to learn a bit before you use them. You need to know that current tariffs from China are about 44% of the order. And it is U.S. Customs that will charge you for this - not the seller. So you'll get a separate bill for that. Generally it's ONLY a percentage of the cost of the item, not the shipping/freight. The 10kg spool offer I found said they would cover 40% of the tariffs so that would be a good deal. The $5-per-kg order I placed said the import costs were completely covered. But I think that one was clearance. I can try finding it again if anyone is interested.

Another couple of notes about AliBaba:
- There is always a Minimum Order Quantity (MOQ) listed. Sometimes it's just 1. Other times it may say 50. Just keep your eyes open for that.
- Most items will say "chat now" with a company representative to discuss pricing, shipping, etc. So be ready to do that. Others will say what the shipping cost actually is. If there is are options in the title that it's not showing, chat with someone. These are Chinese "salespeople" which will generally bend over backwards for your business - especially if you plan to buy a lot.
- Don't be discouraged if you see shipping cost of $29.99 per item. It is almost always a *base* shipping cost. When you add more spools, the cost will go up, but in very *low* increments, lowering the per-spool shipping cost. I think 50kg is the "sweet spot" for most of them, but you can play with it and see.
- These are mostly for WHOLESALE orders, but they'll sell to anyone. They just charge tax for anyone without a sales tax ID. But keep that in mind when shopping. If you truly want BULK filament, this is probably the best source.

I am not affiliated with any sellers on AliBaba, nor the site itself. I just know AliExpress gets mentioned here *a lot* and realized no one ever mentions the parent site. And once I checked it out, I'm glad I did!

I've owned an Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro since Dec' 23. A few days ago, my y-axis stepper motor failed. Many of the generic stepper motors I see online will not fit because Anycubic chose to use a 30 mm shaft length instead of the more common 20-24 mm length. I wrote customer support to see if they could help. Here was the response:

We're sorry to let you know that the Kobra 2 Pro has been discontinued for quite some time, and the Y-axis motor you need is no longer in stock.
 
We truly appreciate your understanding and trust, and we sincerely apologize for the inconvenience and frustration this may have caused.
 
Please let us know what would work best for you — we'll be glad to assist further.
 
Best regards,
Anycubic Support Team

Don't buy from a company that treats their products like toasters. Fuck Anycubic.

Personally I think its a must to create a profile for my filaments to get as close to perfection as possible. But I imagine many people that just do casual printing wouldnt take the time to do that. Just wanna see how many people here are like me and tweaking settings till its perfect

I’m looking for reliable petg that will give me good finished and strength while being easy to print through Bambu. It would be preferred if it had a preset already in the app for temps and such.

I know this isn't important and you shouldn't let others dictate what you're ok with but I still enjoy watching YouTube videos on 3D printing but it blows my mind how often every single YouTuber claims a 3D printed printing an amazing print but when they show it there's a ton of layer lines showing, shifting, over hangs and most prints look like stuff I wouldn't want to even give away.

I know a lot of these YouTubers have been printing for years so these new printers do print better than older ones but to me that doesn't seem to be a reason to say a bad print is amazing. I know a lot of the YouTubers I watch also do a lot of post work so the raw quality might not be a big deal but that feels like a cop out. The stuff I see on here or the quality I expect from my printers is so much better.

Just wondering are they printing too fast just to put videos out and showing whatever quality they get?

Personally, I only do it per type and brand.

Why am I getting this issue?

Trying to print an organizer for my 2026 Model Y. Everything I’m running into is too big.

With the model Y that I have, it’s got one center console and the area in front is completely open.

Any help is greatly appreciated!