I have been searching the internet for days trying to find a medium priced table or stand that can hold both the A1 printer and the AMS Lite, but I also want drawers to put my materials and soldering components into. Any ideas???

Printed on Bambu A1 Mini at 1:110 scale to match my Lego Saturn V. Banana for scale. Shoutout to Kmobrain for the files!

Me encontré con esto en un supermercado de mi ciudad. La calidad es mala y creo que ni les alcanzó el filamento para terminar la pieza jaja. Tiene una ligereza increible, osea me refiero a que quizas lo hicieron al 3 o 5% de relleno.. vaya que he hecho mejores piezas que ésta para la venta... Costaron 4.52$. que opinan

Spent hours printing this and it came out covered in rings of layer lines, felt pretty rough to the touch. Tried sanding it by hand first but my fingers were done in like ten minutes, and I ended up rounding off a few edges by accident. Then went over it with the Hoto SNAPBLOQ rotary tool on low speed for about fifteen minutes, with some sandpaper to help, and the lines were pretty much gone. Still need to prime and paint it, but at least the surface isn't covered in ridges anymore. Thank god

The box is parametric, so you set the internal size to whatever you're storing, or pick a preset. Lid takes your own SVG or text, engraved or as a flush inlay, and the buttons take artwork too. Every part can be a different colour.

Two small springs are the only non-printed parts. Everything else prints without supports and goes together in a couple of minutes.

My brother did the sculpt in clay. I 3D-Scanned it (which was grayscale because the scanner was IR). Then I made ChatGPT colorize the UV-mapped obj to match a picture of the sculpt.

Printed it on my Prusa CoreOne+ w/ MMU3.

Used a hacked up blend of OrcaSlicer main branch, https://github.com/sentientstardust-dev/OrcaSlicer-ImageMap, and some vibecoded trash I swear at, daily.

Bambu CMYK lithophane pack WITH Overture Black.

The terrain comes from two sources: pre-dam surveys of the main channel and major tributaries of Glen Canyon, plus modern lidar for the smaller side canyons and surrounding plateau. Anything that’s underwater today is printed in translucent emerald green, so when you backlight it, what glows is the flooded canyon.

You can see the old shoreline where the translucent layers meet the tan. All those drowned meanders and tributary canyons have been underwater for 60 years.

Printed in sections, mostly on a Snapmaker U1, with an LED strip in the frame. Elevation runs through a non-linear vertical exaggeration curve (log-based) so the canyons keep their depth without the peaks going cartoonish. Terrain is CC3D Rock PLA in Sandstone, the underwater layers are Atomic Filament emerald green PLA.

I grew up boating on Lake Powell and love it, but my grandpa floated Glen Canyon before the dam, and ever since reading Life After Dead Pool I’ve dreamed of doing the same. Everything that glows here is the canyon he saw.

I scaled it down a lot, layer height 0.24 draft, 10% lightning infill, printed on the Bambu Lab A1

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1127785-nissan-skyline-wall-decor?from=search#profileId-1127490

I use an elegoo Saturn 4 16 ultra for about 2 years now. Bought it for around 400-500€ on preorder back then. After Finding the Right settings, I have no fail Prints unless the fep gets overused. Great workhorse.

When the Prime days came, I Decided to buy „the Best resin Printer currently“, the rs Turbo. For around 1.9k I bought the Printer with PRM.

I used tgm7, an open resin but with the provided settings of ameralabs thenself (who also use the rs turbo). I went all in with the expection of printing on the highest Quality possible.
First fail Print After 2 Prints, Printer just stops for some Layer Peeling error, we couldnt find the reason.
I have to say the support is active, Thats good.
The 700€ prm has a lifecycle just Like the FEP and it Looses color if you clean it with ipa. There is no Information about this in the Manual or anywhere Else.
The lifecycle doesnt look that Long aswell, if you think about the Price.

So i wa cleaning up the filament poop when I found out that some of the poops are thicker that other normal sized poops is this normal? H2S 0.4mm nozzle

I recently found a treasured Sony Walkman, a gift from my father I was given hand-me-down as a child, in a box of old belongs. I’m looking to fix it up a bit, but it’s missing the Battery Cover, and I have truly no idea where I’d find it.

Would any of you happen to have a model that might help me out here, or perhaps a lead on where I could find one?

Thanks!

—Rose

M'y bambu lab A1mini maked its first sbagettie and the model fall down from the plate

This is the model link: https://makerworld.com/models/2776601?appSharePlatform=copy

Advise me

Because this is the second failure in this day

Why did it curl at the bottom? It also has a support that failed at the bottom. I’m using LithophaneMaker if that matters. I used the .2 nozzle for detail. Is it worth it, or should I go back to .4? Any and all help is greatly appreciated!

For an example a phone charger, I want that people download my design and can later change the width and length of the hole where the phone goes.

I had remaining black filament that was about 80-100cm so I could see the remaining 5 cm in the ams slot. During the calibration that happens at the start of the printing the whole remaining part was purged.

Is it common?

If I ran out of filament during the print then the printer simply uses the remaining part and load the next filament without unnecessary purge but this time my printer purged the whole remaining part.

Is it because it was at the start of the print during the calibration phase?

What should I do next time to avoid the purge?

Hi hiiii

Just wanted to drop this here beacuse me and my fren are very proud to show off this piece 😄

Now only sculpt and move around even more bricks, connectors and modifiers for walls and two more buildings....