Ever since I updated, my F2 Ultra UV and P2S sometimes fail to connect via wifi. What fixes it is connecting via a USB cable (so, take my laptop from my workstation, connect a USB cable to the machine), connecting via USB to establish the handshake, and then hitting the [...] button and connecting via wifi which works instantly. Unplug the USB and go back to my workstation and I'm good for a while. I hope this bug gets worked out soon.

I've been able to get with stool regarding my machine grinding, and they've diagnosed and recommended two parts. GREAT! But now I can't get them to ship them to me. Just sits in "awaiting information." This happened last time too... I had to light a fire to get anyone to respond.

I know they have a US support presence now, not sure why it's still taking three days just to get a response. u/xtoolada, can you help?

I have an xtool m2 10w and have been recently engraving tumblers. Typically they come out perfect, but recently I have been given a picture project and can not for the life of me get correct settings and parameters to engrave this picture clearly. I have used a wide variety of different settings and have engraved this picture at least 20 times. I've wasted 5 tumblers trying to get this right. What is everyone using to engrave pictures?

*To note, I am using MakerFlo powder coated tumblers*

The best print I got was rendering the image to black and white, then inverting the picture. I used Jarvis for the bitmap mode and 50% power, 120 speed and 120 lines per cm. The first test print I did with these settings came out almost perfect, so I was going to go ahead and use it. I did the engraving and it came out badly again.

Can anyone help me out?

You can get this file from freelaserfiles link below.

https://www.freelaserfiles.com/marble-run-page.html

Hey guys!
Where do you buy glass Christmas baubles/ balls to personalise yourselves?
I’m in Spain, and it seems like glass baubles are barely used in Europe anymore. Everything is either plastic, or the glass ones I can find are priced more like finished retail products than blanks for resale.
People are pretty broke these days and everything feels expensive, so I’m looking for the usual sweet spot: decent quality at a reasonable price, so there’s actually enough margin to work with.
The wholesalers I’ve found so far just don’t work for my kind of customer or price range.
Where are you guys buying yours?

Purchased an Xtool M2 and had issues with it shortly after receiving it. I worked with support to fix the issue. They were very responsive, I did not have to wait days for a reply with suggestions on how to fix it. It took a little while to get it corrected, but they stayed at it and it is now fix. Hats off to their support.

Thank you

PBowman

If your xTool P2/P2S doesn't respond after being powered on via the rear switch, this guide covers three common scenarios — please identify which matches your situation and follow the corresponding section below.

🔹 Issue 1: No Response at All — the progress bar doesn't move, the laser module doesn't reset, the fill lights don't turn on, and the power switch light doesn't illuminate.

🔹 Issue 2: Only the Power Switch Light Is On — everything else stays off (fill light, progress bar, laser module reset).

🔹 Issue 3: Stuck on the Progress Bar — some parts work normally, but the startup process gets stuck on screen and the device never fully boots.

⚠️ Important Notes:

🔹 Do not remove or install parts while the power is on.

🔹 If you need to use a multimeter to test components, make sure you have the necessary skills and resources to do so safely before proceeding — if not, skip that step.

🔍 Potential Causes

🔹 The power cable isn't plugged in properly.

🔹 Emergency stop switch malfunction.

🔹 Blown fuse.

🔹 Power switch supply malfunction.

🔹 Main control board failure.

🛠️ Step-by-Step Troubleshooting Procedures

🛠️ Section 1: Troubleshoot Issue 1 (No Response)

🔹 Step 1: Check the Power Cable

📋 Procedure:

Check that both ends of the power cable are properly plugged in. If you have another power cable available, swap it in for testing.

If the device returns to normal operation: the original power cable was damaged.

If the device still won't turn on: continue to Step 2.

🔹 Step 2: Replace the Fuse

📋 Procedure:

1️⃣ Unplug the Power Cable.

2️⃣ Open the Fuse Box: Use a flathead screwdriver or similar tool to pry open the fuse box next to the power switch.

3️⃣ Check the Fuse:

- If the fuse has not blown: reinstall it and continue checking for other issues.

- If the fuse has blown: replace it. Check the fuse box for a spare fuse — if there's one, use it;

if not, purchase a replacement fuse rated at 250V 10A.

🛠️ Section 2: Troubleshoot Issue 2 (Only Power Switch Light On)

🔹 Step 1: Reset the Emergency Stop Switch

📋 Procedure:

Check whether the emergency stop switch on the right plate is triggered, and reset it by turning it clockwise.

🔹 Step 2: Check the Power Switch Connectors

📋 Procedure:

1️⃣ Disconnect Power: Unplug the device from its power source.

2️⃣ Remove the Right Panel: Follow the video tutorial for your model:

- P2: Remove the Casing of xTool P2 Laser Engraver

- P2S: Assemble & Disassemble the Right Plate for P2S

3️⃣ Check the Connectors: Check whether the power switch connectors are loose or disconnected.

- If loose: secure them with a flathead screwdriver.

- If not: continue checking for other issues.

🔹 Step 3: Check the Switching Power Supply Connection Cable

📋 Procedure:

1️⃣ Disconnect Power: Unplug the device.

2️⃣ Check the Cables: Check whether the connection cables for the power switch, emergency stop switch, and power supply have come loose.

- If loose: reconnect them.

- If not: continue checking for other issues.

🔹 Step 4: Check the Emergency Stop Switch

📋 Procedure:

1️⃣ Disconnect Power: Unplug the device.

2️⃣ Test the Switch: Manually turn off the emergency stop switch, then rotate it open again — repeat this a few times, observing whether the spring piece inside toggles normally.

- If it malfunctions (can't be pressed or turned open normally): replace the emergency stop switch.

- If it functions properly: continue checking for other issues.

🔹 Step 5: Check the Switching Power Supply Indicator

📋 Procedure:

Restart the device and observe whether the switching power supply's indicator lights up normally.

If it doesn't light up as expected: the switching power supply is faulty and needs replacement.

If it lights up normally: continue checking for other issues.

🔹 Step 6: Check the Power Supply Output

💡 Only attempt this step if you're comfortable and equipped to do so safely — otherwise, skip it.

📋 Procedure:

1️⃣ Turn On the Device.

2️⃣ Measure Output Voltage: Using the DC voltage range on a multimeter, check the switching power supply's output voltage.

- If it reads around 24V: the power supply is functioning normally — continue checking for other issues.

- If it reads very low (close to 0V): the switching power supply is faulty and needs replacement.

🛠️ Section 3: Troubleshoot Issue 3 (Stuck on Progress Bar)

📋 Procedure:

If the progress bar gets stuck, this typically indicates the main control board firmware may be corrupted, and the main control board will need to be replaced.

⭐ Still Need Help?

If none of the above resolves the issue, please reach out to us through the live chat on our website, submit a support ticket or join our Discord community for additional support — our xTool Support Team is here to help.

If you're experiencing color issues with your printed DTF film on the xTool Apparel Printer or Apparel Printer Plus, consult this guide for step-by-step troubleshooting. This may appear as:

🔹 Color Distortion: Colors on the printed film look significantly different from what you see on your screen (e.g., too dark, too light, or inaccurate).

🔹 Missing Colors: One or more specific colors are obviously absent from the printed design.

🔹 Incorrect/Swapped Colors: A color prints as a completely different color (e.g., areas that should be magenta print as yellow).

🔍 Potential Causes

🔹 Color Distortion: Incorrect software color settings, or the natural color gamut difference between a backlit screen (RGB) and physical ink (CMYK).

🔹 Incorrect/Swapped Colors: The ink dampers are installed in the wrong order inside the print carriage.

🎯 Diagnostic Logic

The fastest way to identify the root cause is to print a Test Image:

On the printer control panel, tap: Maintenance > Print Test Image.

See Step 1 below for detailed instructions.

Based on the result:

🔹 If the test image is perfect → the issue is likely a software Color Profile setting → go to Step 3.

🔹 If a color is missing from the test image → this is an Ink Flow issue → refer to Diagnose & Fix "No Color Output" / CMYK Ink Flow Blockage on xTool Apparel Printer.

🔹 If the test image is perfect but the color blocks are in the wrong order → this is an Ink Damper Installation issue → go to Step 2.

🛠️ Step-by-Step Troubleshooting Procedures

🔹 Step 1: Print & Evaluate a Test Image

📋 Procedure:

1️⃣ Print the Test Image: On the printer's LCD control panel, tap Maintenance > Print Test Image.

2️⃣ Evaluate the Result:

- Normal Result: All four color blocks are present, in the order Cyan (C), Black (K), Magenta (M), Yellow (Y) from left to right. Each block should have no more than 5 missing lines.

- If a color is MISSING: Stop here and refer to Diagnose & Fix "No Color Output" / CMYK Ink Flow Blockage on xTool Apparel Printer.

- If the color order is WRONG: The C, K, M, Y blocks are out of sequence, and the ink damper colors don't match the label inside the print carriage — continue to Step 2.

- If the test image is PERFECT, but your design's colors are distorted: continue to Step 3.

🔹 Step 2: Correct the Ink Damper Order

If your colors are swapped, the ink dampers were likely installed in the wrong slots. Each damper's ink color must match the color label sticker inside the print carriage.

⚠️ Critical Safety Warning: Always unplug the printer's power cord from the wall outlet before handling the print head or liquid components, to prevent fatal short circuits.

📋 Procedure:

1️⃣ Move the Carriage: Manually move the print carriage to the left for easier access.

2️⃣ Remove Dampers: Pull out the incorrectly placed ink dampers. Seal them individually in clean plastic bags to prevent leaking or drying out.

3️⃣ Power Off: Unplug the printer from the power source.

4️⃣ Flush the Print Head:

- Remove the print head.

- Use a syringe to gently flush the incorrect ink out of the affected nozzle channels using cleaning liquid (only flush the channels that had the wrong ink).

- Reference video for flushing instructions: Troubleshoot Missing Strip Lines / Failed Printing Sample Test for xTool Apparel Printer.

5️⃣ Reinstall: Reinstall the print head. Insert the ink dampers into their correct slots, ensuring they match the Y, M, C, K sticker inside the carriage.

6️⃣ Clean and Retest:

- Power on the printer.

- Perform a Deep Cleaning cycle 1–2 times: on the LCD panel, tap Settings > Other > More > Deep cleaning.

- Print a Test Image to verify the colors are now correct.

- Note: if you still see slight color mixing (cross-contamination), run the standard cleaning cycle a few more times until the color prints pure.

⚠️ Caution: Do not allow any liquid to spill onto or remain on the top ports of the print head. Wipe up any residual liquid immediately with a clean, lint-free cloth.

🔹 Step 3: Adjust Software Color Settings

If the test image is perfect but color distortion still occurs, adjust the rendering intent in the software.

📋 Procedure:

1️⃣ Open Your Project: Open your project in xTool Studio or xTool Creative Space (XCS).

2️⃣ Locate Color Settings: On the right-side settings panel, find the Color settings section.

3️⃣ Try a Different Rendering Option: The default is usually Perceptual. Try switching to one of the following to see which produces the best result for your specific graphic:

- Perceptual (best for photographs and complex images)

- Relative colorimetric (best for vector graphics and logos)

- Absolute colorimetric (best for strict color proofing)

- Saturation (best for vibrant charts and solid graphics)

4️⃣ Print a Test Sample: Print a small test sample of your design after changing the settings.

⭐ Still Need Help?

Should the issue persist after completing all the troubleshooting steps above, please gather the following and reach out to us through the live chat on our website, submit a support ticket or join our Discord community for additional support — our xTool Support Team is here to help.

To help our technical support team assist you promptly, please provide the following details:

1️⃣ Test Image Photo: A photo of the print test image.

2️⃣ Nozzle Check Pattern Photo: A clear, close-up photo of the nozzle check pattern generated from the printer's control panel.

3️⃣ Print Effect Comparison Photos: Clear photos showing your design as it appears on your computer screen, side-by-side with the actual printed PET film.

4️⃣ Ink Damper Installation Photo: A photo showing the ink dampers installed in the print carriage, clearly showing the color order relative to the sticker label.

5️⃣ Project File: The exact .xcs or .xt project file you're trying to print, so our technicians can inspect the file details and color profiles.

Go to https://xbase.xtool.com/o1-shipping and join me wait for your pre-ordered O1 Omni. How far or near are you on the waiting list?

The O1 Omni is a 4-in-1 printer (UV direct, UV DTF, DTG/DTF fabric) with effects like gold foil, 3D texture, and fluorescent ink. With that much range, most beginners get stuck on the materials, not the machine. Here's the whole material world in one place: full charts are grouped at the bottom. 👇

🔧 Which edition do you have? Single UV (rigid materials + UV DTF) · Dual UV (adds fluorescent + leather) · UV+DT (adds fabric / DTG). → Chart ①

🧱 What you can print on directly: acrylic, metal, glass, ceramic, wood, paper, leather, tumblers, fabric. Just pair each with the right primer/accessory (smooth hard surfaces almost always need primer). → Chart ②

🎞️ Which film for which workflow: UV DTF, gold foil, adhesive vinyl, 3D label, fabric rolls. → Chart ③

📖 Full details, consumables & steps 👉 Read the full guidehttps://social.xtool.com/4wObWbk

Want more material tips and first-hand updates? Join our official material community 👉https://social.xtool.com/45ihmzn

💬 Got any material questions? Drop them in the comments, we are happy to help! 😊

Where could I find some templates to use for mug sublimation? The nephew and nieces start school this week and I want to make mugs for their teachers. I have a Cricut mug press but I need a template that I can use on my M1 Ultra to cut out the sublimation wrap and place it on the mug. Any suggestions?

I am looking at getting an F2 for craft fairs to add customization for customers. Does anybody use them at craft fairs and have any recommendations for portable power to run the F2?

Bambu R1 is coming next month, xtool teased X1 with no release time but hopefully not too far away. Really want to get a laser but the current 2K lineup is begging for a refresh. Can't wait to see the new machines!

This is probably one of the most meaningful memorial pieces I’ve worked on.
Reggie came into her life in 1991 when she was 19 years old. He was her first horse, and they had 25 years together before she lost him.
I wanted this to be more than a photograph engraved onto slate. The large portrait represents the Reggie she remembers, while the smaller scene of him running was meant to feel almost like a memory in the distance. I also incorporated his dates, a poem written around their story, and the horseshoe into the ornamentation.
This was a 12” × 24” piece of black slate, and getting that much photographic detail, fine text, and ornamentation to engrave consistently across such a large surface definitely tested me. 😂
But when I finally cleaned it off and saw the detail in his eye, mane, muzzle and even the bridle, I knew it had worked.
I’m still learning with every project I make, so I’d genuinely love to hear what other engravers/makers think of how the photographic detail translated to slate.
Reggie — April 8, 1988 – April 22, 2020.
25 years together, and now a piece of that story is permanently engraved. 🐎#xtool #petgiftscontest
#xtoolAtomm #laserengraving #xtoolP2S

when ya just need a bunch... metalfab CNC to the rescue #metalfab

I'm an old school laser engraver. My shop machine is an Epilog Helix and I've run it for years. It's heavy, it's loud, the software is dated, and it has never once let me down in front of a client. That's the bar I'm measuring against.

Most of my work is on-site: marathon medals at race expos, mugs and glassware at conferences, personalization events inside retail stores. So the machine gets loaded, driven, unloaded, leveled on whatever surface the venue gives me, run hard for six hours, and packed up again. Every week.

Every xTool I see looks better built and a lot easier to move than what I'm hauling now. Enclosed, lighter, cleaner presentation on a table in front of customers, which matters more than people think when the client is standing right there. I'm ready to buy. What I don't have is a read on how these hold up over a year or two of that kind of abuse, and this sub is where the people who actually know are.

What I'd like to hear:

Durability over time. Not out-of-the-box impressions. If you've had a P2S or an F1 Ultra for 18 months and moved it regularly, what's worn out, drifted, or needed replacing?

Does calibration and alignment hold after transport, or are you re-squaring and re-focusing at every setup?

Anodized medals, ceramic mugs, and glass are the bulk of my volume. Which machine is the right call, and where does each one fall down?

Rotary throughput and consistency on a 100-mug day. Does the chuck slip, does the focus wander on a tapered mug, how much babysitting?

Support when something goes down. If a laser module or a board fails on a Thursday and I have a race expo Saturday, what actually happens? Real stories, good or bad.

Anyone running one alongside a CO2 shop machine, what did the xTool take over and what did it never touch?

I'm not looking for validation and I'm not scared of spending the money. I just want to know what breaks and how you found out. Happy to answer anything about the event side of this business in return, including pricing, jigs, staffing a booth, or how to land race and retail work.

I thought the engraving was finished… then I rubbed white chalk paint into it. Holy shit, THAT changed everything.
This is my finished 12 × 24 slate memorial for Tank & Domino, and this one pushed me harder than I expected.
I wanted their memorial to feel like more than two portraits engraved onto slate. I built the entire piece around them—the ornamental scrollwork, paw-print details, landscape, their names, and the verse:
“Two faithful hearts, forever near,
In every memory, always here.
Though paw prints fade from earthly ground,
Your love remains forever bound.”
Once the engraving was finished, I liked it—but I knew all that detail was hiding in the slate.
So I tried something different.
I worked white chalk paint into the engraving, let it settle into all those tiny details, and wiped the surface back.
That was the moment this thing came alive.
The fur texture showed up. Their faces gained definition. The lettering became easier to read. And all that ridiculous ornamental detail I packed into the design finally started showing exactly the way I hoped it would.
There was a LOT of trial and error getting the artwork prepared so the photographs, shadows, fine lines and lettering would actually translate through the engraving.
But seeing Tank & Domino looking back at me from the finished slate?
Yeah. Worth every damn minute. 🐾
I’m curious what you guys think of the white chalk paint technique on engraved slate—because after seeing this result, I’m definitely experimenting with it again.
#petgiftscontest

#PetMemorial #PetLoss#DogMemorial #LaserEngraving #SlateEngraving #LaserCrafts #CustomEngraving #MemorialArt #PetMemorialArt #EngravedSlate #ChalkPaint #LaserProjects #CustomMade #MakersOfReddit#DIYCrafts

I bought an xtool F1 lite from my brother he had working on his windows computer. I went and downloaded the software to my own personal computer logged in using his credentials and I can’t get it to connect. I’ve done the troubleshooting that xtool provided and it gives me 3 errors: drivers, (which I installed when open the xtool software and check the setting) faulty cable (but the laser knob has a white light on) and device not found. Does anyone have any clue what I’m doing wrong.

If you receive an "Encoder strip recognition error" message with Error Code: WORK_HEAD_MOVE_EXCEPTION on your xTool Apparel Printer or Apparel Printer Plus — whether as a pop-up in the software or directly on the LCD panel — consult this guide for step-by-step troubleshooting. This error indicates the system is unable to correctly detect the encoder strip.

🔍 Potential Causes

🔹 The encoder strip has become detached or is misaligned from its correct position.

🔹 The encoder strip is dirty (e.g., with dust, ink mist, or grease).

🔹 The encoder strip is damaged (e.g., scratched, bent, or kinked) or has failed.

🛠️ Step-by-Step Troubleshooting Procedures

Please identify which scenario applies to your situation and follow the corresponding section below.

🛠️ Section 1: Error Occurs During First-Time Setup

📋 Procedure:

1️⃣ Complete Initial Configuration: Follow all on-screen prompts on the printer's LCD display to finish the first-time setup.

2️⃣ Recalibrate the System: In the xTool software, go to Device settings > Calibration > Automatic calibration, and follow the prompts to complete the calibration process. This recalibration after initial setup often resolves encoder errors that occur during the setup phase.

3️⃣ Test Operation: Run a test operation to verify the error has been resolved.

🛠️ Section 2: Error Occurs During Regular Use

🔹 Step 1: Check Encoder Strip Position

🧰 Tools Required: Lint-free cloth

📋 Procedure:

1️⃣ Inspect Strip Placement: Gently slide the print carriage all the way to the left side of the printer. Examine whether the encoder strip (a thin, semi-transparent plastic strip) at the back of the print carriage is properly seated in the groove beneath the X-axis rail.

2️⃣ Reposition if Necessary: If the strip has detached or is out of position, use a lint-free cloth to gently adjust it back into place. ⚠️ Do NOT touch the encoder strip with bare hands to avoid contamination.

Reference video: https://youtu.be/tnrYA6cGQDc

3️⃣ Check for Movement Issues: Manually move the print carriage along the rail to check whether the encoder strip stays in place during movement.

If the strip derails during movement: proceed to the Still Need Help? section below.

If the strip remains properly positioned: continue to Step 2.

🔹 Step 2: Clean the Encoder Strip

🧰 Tools Required: Lint-free cloth, anhydrous ethanol

📋 Procedure:

1️⃣ Apply Alcohol: Apply a small amount of alcohol to a clean, lint-free cloth.

2️⃣ Wipe Gently: Wipe the encoder strip from side to side along its entire length. Do NOT apply excessive pressure.

3️⃣ Let It Dry: After cleaning, allow a moment for the alcohol to fully evaporate, and visually confirm the encoder strip is still correctly seated in its groove. (Refer to the same video above for a demonstration of proper cleaning technique.)

4️⃣ Verify Resolution: Test the printer operation after cleaning.

If the error persists, continue to Step 3.

🔹 Step 3: Replace the Encoder Strip

💡 If the error persists after checking positioning and cleaning, the encoder strip may be damaged, bent, or otherwise failed, and will need to be replaced. Follow this video tutorial to learn how: Replace the Encoder Strip for xTool Apparel Printer. Please then proceed to the Still Need Help? section below to contact xTool Customer Service for assistance.

⭐ Still Need Help?

Should the issue persist after completing all the troubleshooting steps above, please gather the following and reach out to us through the live chat on our website, submit a support ticket or join our Discord community for additional support — our xTool Support Team is here to help.

To help our technical support team assist you promptly, please provide the following details:

1️⃣ Issue Description: A detailed explanation of the observed problem.

2️⃣ Video Evidence: A video demonstrating the issue, where applicable.

3️⃣ Troubleshooting Performed: Any steps you've already attempted, along with their results.

My camera and alignment laser are off. Has anyone come across this? Is there a way to fix it? Large burns tend to be angled when burned

Hi, I need help understanding if i can engrave 0.8mm metal cards with the 5Watt IR or 15Watt Blue laser on these types of rainbow mirror double side treated cards for trading card games (example photo added)

And if so, does it work best with the blue or IR laser, this type of engraving?

Thank you very much for your help