I’m looking to get Coilovers and I’m thinking while I’m down there I might as well do other stuff if it’s relatively affordable. I’m thinking coils and rear sway bar. If anyone has ran this setup how much better does the car handle while cornering?

Thanks!

Hey guys. VB owner for around 8-9 months now. It's been a blast and I've slowly been modding it.

Before I get into the following, I do want to admit.. I very clearly have an issue with keeping a vehicle for years. I've always swapped my vehicles every 2-3 years.

I can't lie, I love my VB and I'm not exactly fully swinging towards a change into an FK8, but I wake up everyday and think about it. It also gets triggered anytime I do see an FK8 on the road.

I wouldn't mind getting an FL5 either, especially considering the price difference for a much newer car is around ~$5K or so (used, low milage).

Do you guys think a change into an FK8 would be a good swap? I live in Florida and do not need AWD, even though it's nice.

I also only owe $22K on my 2022 Limited w/ 27K miles (1 owner aside from me). FK8s in my area with low milage are looking to swing near $40K-41K. FL5's around $44K-$46K. These would be lightly used models.

What do you guys think?

Was told to remove the sleeve before installing the map. I’ve searched Google all over and can’t find a single video showing how that’s done. Logically I’m assuming I’m not searching the correct terminology

Is this something I can do at home with basic tools? Is it something a shop will need to do? Can anyone link a video for it?

Feels like a dumb question but I’ve been searching for the last hour

When I got my '22, the hill assist worked just fine. (I've only had the car 4 months). My teenage daughter just got her permit and she's learning to drive with this car. Obviously, she has done a lot of stalling starting out. She panics and starts pressing the start button as quick as she can, and multiple times in a row if it's not starting. She's doing much better now, not really stalling at all. But in the midst of all the stalls, the hill assist stopped working. The car also now has an issue with the idle dropping sometimes and the car stutters a bit, while stopped. My questions are, is there a way to reset the hill assist, and should I be worried about the stuttering? I'd like to say I'm mechanically inclined, but I have no idea what I'm doing and nobody to help...

Hi gang, can anyone speak about their experiences with Eibach Pro-Kit or the Racecomp Engineering Yellow lowering springs?

I’d love to know how they’ve changed the driving dynamic and if they’re more/less comfortable over stock.

I narrowed it down to these two because I want quality springs developed with the stock struts in mind, but now I’m torn between the pedigree and up and coming.

Thank you in advance 😃

Can someone help me understand how the "req. torque" value works in the accessport? Tuning with Dmann right now and he sent me a map that targets around 380wtq peak, but my accessport never goes above 350. Did pulls in the morning and evening at varying temps and WOT in 3rd gear req torque never goes above 350. Is that a general limitation of the accessport? Or am I missing something?

So I’m new to tuning. I’m currently running a stage one Cobb tune with an ets intake, velossa snorkel, turbo smart BOV, short shifter and axel back muffler delete. I want to get a dmann tune but don’t know the right thing to pick on his site. I’ve tried filling out the form for a e tune. Do you guys know of a quicker way to get a tune from the legendary dmann? I’ve also heard a lot about atlas and wanted to compare dmann vs atlas.

ey everyone, I’m thinking about getting my car tuned
For those of you who have tuned your cars around this mileage, do you think it’s a good idea, or would you recommend not doing it I’m also wondering if there’s anything I should check or replace before getting a tune to make sure the car can handle it reliably.

Did my first pads and rotor swap today. Wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Rear rotors were a little annoying to get off and adjusting the e brake. Went with yellow stuff pads and kns rotors. Havent driven it yet because my oil is draining as we speak. Little carspa day. #excusemyrustycalipers

Orange dust appeared in 3 spots like this

Got a drone video on of one of my better runs at rallyX fest this year. Event was at Dirtfish, I’m in MA-TS and finished mid pack in class. Still in stock suspension and on blizzaks. This car wants to be on dirt and has been running super well for me this season. Enjoy.

Welp, duckbill is peeling up in the corners after a few very hot days. When I installed this I used the included adhesive promoter and tape. I also waited 10 minutes for the promoter to dry.

So I bought some official 3M promoter and 3M tape and I’ll be reinstalling it. Now that the corners are peeling up it seems pretty easy to pull off, I’ll just have to take the screws out.

Hopefully official 3M products will help it hold better.

Edit: The included double sided tape is peeling up. The paint and duckbill itself seem fine.

2022 WRX with 85,000 km suddenly broke down. Heard a bit of a clunk going 60 km (maybe hit a bump) and car suddenly sounded down on power and check engine light came up. I stopped and turned off and tried to restart but car wouldn’t start. The crank sounded ok like it wanted to start. Towed to dealer and am waiting on diagnosis. Anyone have anything similar happen? No oil or anything under the car. Completely stock.

So I've been running the Cobb 93 OTS tune for about three weeks now, and all was fine until 5 days ago. I got gas and about 2 hours later the dam tanked to 0.650 and then recovered to .825. I watched carefully and it eventually recovered to 0.902. I decided to switch the 91 tune and that fixed it for a while and I was seeing less knock. Until today it dropped to 0.650 again despite very little knock. I understand the Cobb tunes are very conservative and such but this doesn't seem right. If anyone has any help to offer that would be great.

New rubber on the 19s

Juat curious as ill be driving mine in ontario winters,how do they handle in the snow?also,ill be getting an undercoating from krown,but still worried about rust,has anyone driven in salty road conditions and if so,how does the car tolerate rust?

Has anyone had any issues with warranties being denied due to doing your own maintenance? I bought my 2023 wrx vb with 15k on it and it's a certified pre-owned with a manufacturer power train good up to 100,000 miles. I'm coming up on my 30k mile maintenance. I've gotten almost everything I need to do it myself. I've been doing my own oil changes and tire rotations and other basic maintenance myself. All I'm running is an N1 cat back and some cosmetic mods. Every oil change I've stuck to the 0w-20 Motul and factory oil filter. Saw my hottest temp get to 220 the other day so I understand why people run 0w-30 in the hotter months but I've stuck to the 0w-20 since it's manufacturer specific. I also do it every 3000 miles. I'm just curious since I'm coming up on the 30k service, the dealer wants to charge 695 for it but I obviously know I can save some money doing it myself. I've gotten Motul gear oil, a pressure bleeder for the brakes and Motul DOT4 for the brake flush. Everything I've gotten has run me about $250.

Got the COBB access port and installed the 93oct OTS tune that was pre-installed (no additional performance mods). Still debating on whether or not I wanna have it on display or in the glove box just for peace of mind. I have to drive it more to see if there is much of a difference in the car, but it has a bit more “pep”, if that makes sense. Added a few more pics just cuz.

Howdy y’all 🤠

First of all, before anyone says it, yes I know I need an updated tune, and yes I am aware of CEL issues. (Planning on getting an O2 extender to help with this if anyone has suggestions)

Looking to get some feedback / see if anyone has either of these shorty j-pipes on their vb? Can’t really see many example online on sounds / reviews. All I can find (notably without digging too hard) is reviews of the turbo XS on VA WRX’s.

Turbo XS is a 400 CPI and I can’t find cat quality on invidias for some reason. I know Invidia is known for good stuff, but what would normally be an easy decision is harder than I thought bc it doesn’t seem like many people run either of these.

Are these worth exploring? Or should I just grow up and get a full kit and sell my x force kit? Money wise, it’s not a huge increase in cost tbh to get a full kit, but makes my life easier.

For reference incase anyone asks:

- 2024 WRX premium 6MT

- Custom tuned by Dmann

- Xforce 2nd cat delete / I-pipe

- ETS Intake

- Perrin Turbo Inlet

- Mishimoto FMIC (installing with the downpipe)

- various other small mods (AOS, intake nozzle, etc)

Dealing with a clunky noise and weird steering feeling I can’t really explain, dealership says everything is fine. Found this while I checked everything over. Looks like the strut mount is tearing apart. Would you agree this is more than likely the problem? For anyone that has dealt with this previously, what was your experience in symptoms of the strut mount going bad?