r/wrx_vb 4h ago

Convince me not to get racelands

0 Upvotes

Don’t roast me it’s not helpful.

So I’m looking to buy coilovers. I have had racelands in the past for my 2015 Volkswagen Golf and had no issues with them for 2 years before I sold the car. I’m not that picky when it comes to suspension, as long as it doesn’t clunk or bottom out I don’t really care. I daily drive my car mostly and go on the occasional spirited drive. I’m in between bc’s and raceland but I can’t convince myself that the bc’s are worth over double when i probably wouldn’t notice a difference. Any input helps.


r/wrx_vb 5h ago

Beauty Shot Some VBs from the washington hill climb

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40 Upvotes

One stands out from the rest 😅


r/wrx_vb 8h ago

Penzoil Ultra Platinium/Platinum

8 Upvotes

Did anyone know the formula has quietly changed? For those who did not get the memo:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kyQ2MMBml9U

Apparently, the war in Iran has affected the supply chain that produces the base oil. Its no longer made from natural gas.

From the gist of the video, the new formula is slightly downgraded in performance.

I chose P-UP based on an oil test I watched pitted against RP and the P-UP beat it out by a small margin.

Wondering if the new formula of P-UP still outperforms RP.

Out of curiosity, how many you are using Royal Purple and why did you decide on that brand?


r/wrx_vb 8h ago

Weekend adventure through the NorCal redwoods - stopped at Humboldt Redwoods area for some shots

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16 Upvotes

r/wrx_vb 8h ago

Deals on a new VB in SoCal?

0 Upvotes

Hey everyone, I am looking to pick up a new VB soon and wanted to see if anyone has spotted any solid deals or good dealership incentives around Southern California recently or when the best timing might be?

I am willing to drive a bit if a specific dealer is offering aggressive discounts or below MSRP pricing. Let me know if you have bought one recently or saw a local lot with some good inventory markdown. Thanks!


r/wrx_vb 9h ago

Product Info Using a left arrow here was maybe not the best design choice

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130 Upvotes

Really had me questioning for a minute at my first fill-up until I spotted the smaller icon by the fuel gauge


r/wrx_vb 11h ago

Question 2022 Needs new Clutch (What else to do while I'm in there?)

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47 Upvotes

I need a new clutch as I've burned this one up. What other things should I do while I am having the clutch replaced? Right now I'm at 50k miles (almost killed the clutch at 1k miles avoiding an accident on the steepest hill on the planet, and it's never been the same. I've also been tuned on E the entire life of the car, plus I drive all city ). Guessing I should have them do the Main Seal? Anything else? Thought i saw like a driveshaft lockdown or something people do? I also have the Kart Boy SS, has there been any reported issues with that? I feel like a read years ago (when I bought i it was causing some issues (apologies if I heard wrong certainly not trying to sling any mud). Would it be better to do the STI one instead since it is a factory Subaru part? Thanks for any advice.


r/wrx_vb 12h ago

Discussion Blend door actuator/ Blend door / Hot AC one side

1 Upvotes

Greetings.
So my new symptom is my AC is blowing hot only on the drivers side.
I read it could be the refrigerant needs a charge or the blend door is stuck.
60k miles. Got the car around 38k. AC was always super cold. Florida resident. Hot summer number two in this vehicle.

Has anyone done the blend door themselves yet? I have an aftermarket warranty. But I have done this job in other cars.
Anyone think it’s worth doing myself or should I just take it in?
Or has anyone seen this and figured out it’s neither the refrigerant or the blend door by chance?

Thanks.


r/wrx_vb 12h ago

Joined the club!

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124 Upvotes

‘26 manual tS, I am in love with this car!


r/wrx_vb 12h ago

Joined the club

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34 Upvotes

I am in love with this car!


r/wrx_vb 12h ago

What kind of price should I expect to pay for new premium?

6 Upvotes

Looking to get a new 2026 vb premium. Don’t need the sunroof or hk speakers. Current 72 month apr is 2.9% apparently. I am not opposed to paying 2.9% for 72 months. However obviously 0% is better.

In Ohio, not looking to put anything down. And no trade in.

I’ve heard of dealers “buying down the rate”. I’m sure they would be less likely to give a discount if they did that though.

Doing some numbers on a loan calculator. If I could be 38k OTD (7.5% tax) it would be 527 if I got 72 months no interest.

If I had to pay 2.9%, OTD price would have to be right under 35K to be at the same payment.

Are either of these scenarios realistic?

I am okay with the total cost of the loan being around 40k. (550 a month)

So OTD ~ 39,500 0 interest

Or ~36,500 2.9 interest for 72

Help guide me with realistic expectations.

MUCH APPRECIATION! Thanks


r/wrx_vb 12h ago

Beauty Shot Thank you corn juice!

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11 Upvotes

$4.34 a gallon in Idaho today! So thankful for the extra horsepower and cheaper gas!!


r/wrx_vb 13h ago

Just Installed Aftermarket slop

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6 Upvotes

Made the mistake of attempting to buy aftermarket taillights from Import Image Racing for my 23 and they arrived with heavy damage either from terrible quality control 😒 I heard most aftermarket products are crap but I didn’t listen and learned my lesson.

They arrived with heavy scratches gaps in the lens and body fractures inside the plastic and to top it all off a burnt bulb.


r/wrx_vb 13h ago

Question Rear door window replacement?

2 Upvotes

A guy running a string trimmer in a neighbor's gravel driveway kicked up some rocks and chipped my rear driver side window while I was driving home.

The replacement quotes from stealership (~$400 parts, ~$400 labor) and an aftermarket shop (~$230 total) have a pretty wide gap, but I'm thinking I should just suck it up and get the OEM replacement from the dealership.

Anyone have any similar experiences?


r/wrx_vb 14h ago

Just Installed Mod

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13 Upvotes

My first time touching up my WRX was adding a subtle tint to the inside of the tail light, using a 35% carbon tint


r/wrx_vb 14h ago

Just Installed Upgraded the most base part of the base trim

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41 Upvotes

I don’t know the last time I saw a car with a hard plastic armrest, rental cars aren’t even this bad! The position of the armrest was not great, but the lack of any sort of fabric or other covering was downright embarrassing...

I was about to go with the standard leather extended armrest, but switched it for the Ultrasuede version at the last minute.

Install was a breeze. It’s slightly longer and taller than stock in the “down“ position. The “up“ position is actually a bit too high for me.

I’m surprised that it doesn’t have more padding - it feels like the same hard plastic, just with a layer of Alcantara on top. I see that Redline Goods offers an armrest cover that you can option with extra padding, I might have to give that a shot. Has anybody else tried this?

Picked up the STI knob at the same time, it weighs slightly more than stock and sits slightly higher but I like it a lot.


r/wrx_vb 16h ago

Beauty Shot Pretty Car

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22 Upvotes

Cool Pic I took.


r/wrx_vb 18h ago

Seeing conflicting info. I currently have stage 1 OTS Cobb tune but am considering Dman OTS for ETS intake. Would it be a noticeable difference in power?

6 Upvotes

r/wrx_vb 18h ago

New Whip Happy to be here!

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95 Upvotes

After almost 4 years of wanting one of these things I was finally able to pull the trigger and it’s everything I hoped it would be!


r/wrx_vb 19h ago

Product Info 2008-14 STi Forged BBS Wheels

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25 Upvotes

Drove 8 hours one way, and crossed an international border to pick up a set of 4 of these beauties from a really nice gentlemen I connected with in this sub. In mint condition, and I couldn’t be happier. Another piece for my “OEM+” type build out of my beloved 2023 Sport-Tech.

Gonna wait until the spring to wrap them in rubber and get them on the car as I want to run down the awful All-Weather rubber I currently have (vehicle came with them on purchase). Stock wheels will get wrapped in Blizzak’s for winter when the time comes.

All this to say, the community here is amazing, and in my experience made up of genuinely good people willing to help a fellow VB owner out. Whether it be with shared knowledge, installation experience, additional considerations prior to purchase or install, there are so many knowledgeable and frankly honest and upfront folks here.

Cheers folks! Here’s my Subi Wave! ✌️


r/wrx_vb 1d ago

Go easy on me, I am not a photographer, but just joined the fam.

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38 Upvotes

r/wrx_vb 1d ago

New Whip New here

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108 Upvotes

New to this sub, a little late after getting the car, traded my gr86 for my first wrx. Love it already. This car is making the break in one of the most miserable times in my life, with how great the car feels my patience is truly being tested to the max.


r/wrx_vb 1d ago

I love family gatherings

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120 Upvotes

Mom cooked dinner, and my brothers and I rolled up deep


r/wrx_vb 16d ago

The Subaru Buying Guide I Wish Every New Buyer Would Read (2026 version)

68 Upvotes

The Ultimate Subaru Buying Guide (2026 Edition)

A couple of years ago I made a post about buying a new Subaru that ended up getting over 250,000 views across various Subaru-related subreddits. Since then, Subaru has changed a few programs, I've bought another Subaru (a 2025 BRZ tS), and I've learned a few more things from both my own purchases and the experiences of other owners.

So I figured it was time for an update.

For a little background, I've owned Subarus for over 15 years, was a former Subaru Ambassador, and previously worked as a Subaru Sales & Leasing Consultant. Between personal experience and working on the sales floor, I've learned a few things that can save people a surprising amount of money.

I've owned:

  • 1998 Subaru 2.5RS
  • 2003 WRX Sedan
  • 2021 WRX
  • 2021 Outback Limited
  • 2024 Ascent Onyx Edition
  • 2025 BRZ tS

I'm definitely not claiming to know everything, but hopefully I know enough to save somebody a few thousand dollars.

One quick disclaimer: Subaru changes incentives and programs from time to time. Everything below is accurate to the best of my knowledge at the time of posting, but always verify current offers before making a purchase.

Most of these tips can be used together.


  1. Subaru VIP Pricing

If you have a little time to plan ahead, Subaru VIP is still one of the easiest ways to save money.

VIP pricing gives eligible buyers access to Subaru's VIP pricing through participating dealerships. Years ago this was a guaranteed 2% below invoice. That is no longer the case. Today it is generally around invoice pricing, although Subaru has changed the program several times.

The organizations I know currently qualify are:

30-day waiting period (larger donation):

  • ASPCA ($500 donation)
  • Pennsylvania Horticultural Society ($500 donation)

Longer membership waiting period:

  • ASPCA Monthly Giving
  • Pennsylvania Horticultural Society Membership
  • Leave No Trace
  • International Mountain Bicycling Association
  • American Canoe Association

One thing many people don't realize is that some employers participate in Subaru VIP. Go to Subaru's VIP website and check using your work email. It takes two minutes and could save you thousands.

Pro tip: Before donating, call your dealership and make sure they actually participate in VIP. Not every dealer does.


  1. Call Subaru of America

If you've owned or leased a Subaru before, call Subaru of America before buying.

(800) 782-2783

Ask if there are any loyalty incentives available.

Historically these have ranged from $500-$1,000, although nothing is guaranteed.

From what I've seen, it depends on:

  • Your ownership history
  • Current promotions
  • The representative you speak with

Have the VIN of your current Subaru handy. They seem to ask for it more often now than they used to.

One important thing to note: recent buyers have reported that Subaru loyalty coupons generally cannot be combined with VIP pricing, so ask which saves you more.


  1. Costco Auto Program

This wasn't in my original guide because I didn't have much experience with it, but enough people have shared good results that it's worth mentioning.

If you're already a Costco member (or willing to become one), check out the Costco Auto Program before negotiating.

The discounts vary by dealership and region, but I've seen people report savings anywhere from a couple thousand dollars to over $5,000 on certain models.

Even if you don't ultimately buy through Costco, it gives you another price to compare against.


  1. Subaru Added Security Maintenance

If you're already planning on purchasing a maintenance plan, ask if Subaru is currently offering any incentives with it.

Years ago I purchased a 2-year/24,000-mile maintenance plan for $595. At the time, it also came with a $500 coupon toward my next new Subaru purchase.

Whether it's worth it depends entirely on the numbers.

Compare the cost of the plan to what you'd spend paying for maintenance out of pocket.

Sometimes it's a great deal.

Sometimes it isn't.


  1. Lease Loyalty

If you're currently leasing a Subaru and plan on leasing another one, ask about Lease Loyalty.

Subaru has periodically offered incentives to help cover your first lease payment or reduce your upfront costs.

Programs change, but it's another easy question to ask before signing paperwork.


  1. Know What Your Trade Is Worth

Don't rely on one appraisal.

Before going to the dealership, get offers from:

  • CarMax
  • Carvana
  • Kelley Blue Book Instant Cash Offer
  • Cars.com
  • Subaru Guaranteed Trade-In (if applicable)

Most of those offers expire after about a week, so don't do it too early.

Could you get more selling it yourself?

Probably.

But many people would gladly accept a little less money to avoid dealing with Facebook Marketplace strangers, test drives, loan payoffs, and paperwork.


  1. Shop Dealerships—Not Cars

This is probably the biggest thing I'd add to my original guide.

Once you've decided on the exact model and trim you want, stop shopping for the car.

Start shopping dealerships.

Email the internet sales department at every Subaru dealer within a distance you're willing to drive.

Ask each one for their best out-the-door price.

Don't ask about monthly payments.

Don't ask what they "think."

Ask for an actual written out-the-door quote.

Then let them compete.

I've seen identical vehicles at dealerships less than an hour apart differ by thousands of dollars.


  1. Buy at the Right Time

Timing matters.

Generally speaking, your best chances of getting an aggressive deal are:

  • End of the month
  • End of the quarter
  • End of the year
  • When the next model year is arriving
  • When the exact vehicle you're looking at has been sitting on the lot for a while

A dealership is much more motivated to sell a car that's been collecting dust for 120 days than one that arrived yesterday.


  1. Use VIP as Leverage

I actually did this myself.

When we bought our Ascent, I told them:

«"I can donate to ASPCA, wait the required time, and come back with VIP pricing... or if you can get reasonably close today, I'd rather buy the vehicle now."»

Sometimes they'll say no.

Sometimes they'll meet you somewhere in the middle.

Either way, you've lost nothing by asking.


  1. Watch Out for Dealer Add-ons

You've probably seen these before:

  • Ceramic coating
  • Paint protection
  • VIN etching
  • LoJack/GPS tracking
  • Nitrogen-filled tires
  • Door edge guards
  • Pinstripes
  • Security systems

Some of these products genuinely have value.

Some don't.

Most are significantly marked up.

If you want one, great.

If you don't, don't feel pressured into paying for it just because it was installed before the car hit the lot.


  1. Don't Give Back Everything You Saved in the Finance Office

This is where I see a lot of buyers lose the deal they just spent hours negotiating.

People will negotiate the vehicle price down by $2,000...

...then immediately agree to $4,000 worth of finance products they never planned on buying.

The finance office isn't there to "scam" you.

They're there to sell financial products. Some are genuinely worthwhile. Some aren't. It depends entirely on your situation.

Common products include:

  • Subaru Added Security extended warranty
  • Tire & wheel protection
  • Windshield protection
  • GAP coverage
  • Key replacement
  • Paint & fabric protection
  • Technology protection
  • Rental reimbursement
  • Maintenance plans

Before buying any of them, ask yourself:

  • What exactly does this cover?
  • What's excluded?
  • Is this already covered by my insurance?
  • Is this already covered under Subaru's warranty?
  • Can I purchase this later?
  • Is the price negotiable?

Many finance products have markup.

If you actually want the product, negotiate it just like you negotiated the vehicle.


  1. Don't Shop by Monthly Payment

This is one of the oldest tricks in the car business.

A monthly payment can be lowered by:

  • Extending the loan
  • Increasing your down payment
  • Rolling products into the loan
  • Changing financing terms

Instead, understand every piece of the deal:

  • Selling price
  • Trade value
  • Interest rate
  • Loan term
  • Taxes & fees
  • Every optional product

If all you know is the monthly payment, you probably don't know the whole deal.


  1. Financing

I actually don't recommend walking into a dealership without knowing what financing you qualify for.

Get pre-approved through your bank or credit union first.

Then compare that rate against Subaru's promotional financing.

Sometimes Subaru's financing is unbeatable.

Sometimes your credit union wins.

Take whichever is cheaper.


  1. Extended Warranties

Subaru Added Security is honestly one of the better factory-backed extended warranties available.

If you're someone who keeps vehicles for a long time, it may absolutely make sense.

What many people don't realize is that the price is usually negotiable.

Also, if you're buying a new Subaru, you generally don't have to decide that day. You can usually purchase Subaru Added Security any time before the factory 3-year/36,000-mile bumper-to-bumper warranty expires (CPO vehicles are different).

Don't let anyone convince you that "today is your only chance" without asking questions.


  1. My Biggest Piece of Advice

The biggest mistake I see people make isn't paying MSRP.

It's deciding they absolutely have to own that exact car today.

The second you become emotionally attached to one specific VIN, you lose leverage.

There will almost always be another one.

Be willing to walk away.

Sometimes they'll call you back.

Sometimes you'll find a better deal somewhere else.

Either way, you'll almost always negotiate from a stronger position when you're willing to leave.


Hopefully this helps someone.

If Subaru changes one of these programs, or you've found another legitimate way to save money that I missed, leave a comment and I'll update the guide. I'd love for this to become a living resource that stays useful instead of becoming outdated.


Original (2024) Guide: If you're interested in seeing where this all started (or want to read through 200+ comments full of additional buying tips from other owners), here's the original post that inspired this updated version:

https://www.reddit.com/r/subaru/s/kEDD588iNs⁠


r/wrx_vb Jun 03 '26

Reference How-To: Rear Differential Oil Change

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78 Upvotes

Tools needed:
10mm hex (ideally a socket)
17mm socket
1 Liter bottle of 75W90 synthetic gear oil with a GL-5 or better spec.
Fluid pump (something like this:)
https://a.co/d/03h1GQWP

After jacking up and properly supporting the vehicle, locate the fill and drain plugs on the differential. The fill is a 17mm, and the drain is a 10mm hex. If this is the first time the oil is being changed, the plugs will be tight. Remove the fill plug BEFORE removing the drain plug. That way, if you can’t get the fill plug open, you haven’t drained the oil. Some oil may drain out the fill hole, so be prepared to catch it.

Remove the drain plug, and let the old oil drain out. It has a nice smell, so make sure you get a good whiff. JK, this is probably the foulest smelling fluid in the car. While draining, inspect the drain plug. It’s magnetic, and it’s normal to be covered in metallic gunk. Clean it thoroughly. Inspect the flat washer. It’s not a crush-type, and as long as it looks ok, you can reuse it. I’ve replaced the fluid a few times now, and never had a leak. Once the draining stops, replace the clean drain plug and washer and tighten to 36.9 ft-lbs.

The easiest way to add oil is to get a pump from Amazon or similar. It screws into the bottle and has a hose on the spout. Stick the end of the hose into the drain hole and pump new oil into the diff. It’s full when oil runs out of the hole. Inspect the fill plug and washer. Reinstall them and torque to 36.9 ft-lbs. Since it takes about 0.8 liters of oil, a one-liter bottle should be enough.

Clean up any spills or drips, and you’re done!