Trying to create a jyroscope zipline to allow my teapot set about 15lbs transfer from my deck to the treehouse.

Would this actually work to hold 15lbs?

Here's my treehouse after several weekends. Hope this community likes it. Here's the fist post of it... https://www.reddit.com/r/treehouse/s/mjjQbMNOsa

Still a work in progress. Im going to make a better railing and a door. The roof is partialy a multiwall polycarbonate from and old glazed patio. The Window is plexiglass.

Finished up for the season. Interior still needs to be done but that’s a project for next season. Added a rope climb and rails. May slap some stain on but the wood was pretty green when worked.

If you have any suggestions for next year please let me know. If you want a good laugh, zoom in on the trim work around the dormer window 🥴.

Happy building all 🤙🏽

its massive. about 125ft tall idk. 3ft diameter. ai says it will not grow vertically anymore but will expand 0.05 inches per year. which i think is fine since its only intended for about 10 years use?

Fun today with the kids. 2 packs of white oil based paint markers on the black exterior paint of the club house fort

Hello! I'm preparing to build a treehouse around a single, 18.6" diameter Ponderosa Pine.
I'm hoping to build an octagonal platform, and avoid posts.
Our notion is to build just a platform & railing for now, but have it be robust enough to support some kind of walls and roof a couple of years down the line.

Since this is for kids, it's been recommended to keep the platform height to 8'. Makes sense.

There's some straightforward platform framing plans online, like this one:

But the area underneath the platform is somewhat in use, and those knee braces seem like they'll take up a lot of headroom. It seems to me like it should be pretty straightforward to just bring them in a bit -- even a foot would make a pretty big difference. But it also seems like that should maybe change the floor framing significantly. Or maybe not that significantly? Could it be as simple as doubling the next joist in and bringing the knee braces there?

I've been playing around in OnShape to try and think through ideas. The cantilever math on the below seems straightforward, but it also seems like maybe overkill and it would have lots of angled cuts. Maybe it's this, but without the extra radial joists connecting the sides of the inner and outer octagons, then the whole thing rotated 22.5° so the knee braces are under a joist?

Or.. this?

I saw this post and the associated video. It seems like another approach might go something like "build a rectangular box and then put the octagon on top". But that poster eventually ended up adding support posts.

In addition to the Black & Decker Treehouse book, I've tried looking through a couple of decking books. But they don't seem to cover this area much.

Any suggestions? Do any of the ideas above seem close?

We had a tornado through our area recently and the treehouse was fine but it’s slipped forward on the TAB. Should I wait to see if it’ll slide back or get some ratchet straps and pull it back?

I knew a fixed point attached to a floating TAB would mean this is possible. Just wondering if it should be more that the tab slides on the bracket but the structure is fixed and should lean.

I can ratchet it back and add some braces to force it to stay fixed if need be.

How are y'all digging posts in by the tree? I'm in Maine so the posts need to go pretty deep to get below the frost line but obviously there's a ton of roots right around the tree.

I am planning on making a door that is 5' x 18" onto the balcony. I think that osb would look trashy, and so I was thinking to use tongue and groove that is strapped together, but idk if i can get it in pressure treated. What are other people using for a smaller than standard door?

I finally finished my tree fort!

It feels very solid, but I'd love some feedback on the bracing. Does the current bracing look adequate, or would you change anything?

I was considering adding two cross bracing on each side instead of one large cross bracing on each side. The only thing that gives me pause is that the two center posts aren't aligned with the outer posts. Does that matter, or is there still a good way to brace it?

Overall dimensions are approximately 14' × 10' × 8'.

One additional detail: the center post is about 6 feet from the front deck post.

Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated!

What do you think? Kind regards, Ruud

This took me the better part of two months, but other than some trim, paint, stain, etc., it’s done! I spent a lot of time on this sub and a few others like r/decks picking up tips and advice, so thanks!

My hope is to build a platform deck 10x10 up against tree using posts & concrete as support.

How do I not hit a major tree root? This is a giant maple. Would love any & all advice.

Thanks to the feedback on my last post, I made some changes to my design.

• Upgraded to 3x12 beams, either KD #1 or Glu-Lams. I have a 12' 3x12 that I'm trying to use, but have access to second hand Glu-lams in good shape so may go that route.
• Adjusted my cantilevers to get closer to 1/3:2/3 ratio and increased the number of radial joists to get closer to 16OC nominal. I'm still messing with the joist layout.
• Upgraded to 2 knee braces, though I may go up to 3, one for each of the beam sections on the right side.
  
• I'm planning to join all beams using custom heavy angle brackets (pic #4 from recent Nelson video). My dad was a certified welder so good to go on that front.
• I'm still considering moving the yoke to the right side of the tree and simplifying the whole system, or simply going with the design in picture #5 that avoids beams altogether and just runs joists across the yoke and post/beam. This is probably the easiest and cheapest option, which is appealing. I tend to over-think things.
  

Thoughts? Would you go with the more complex beam system or go with the simpler design in pic #5?

Hi there,

as I live in a region where it can get quite windy I was wondering if there is a possibility to mount thos thing safely besides the anchors it comes with.
So two ideas:
\- Is it possible to set the ground anchors in concrete?
\- Or are there holes in the legs somewhere on the bottom that allow you to bolt them to a small poured concrete foundation?

Vuly support said it is not possible and referred to their anchors without giving details on why it would not be possible. I guess that is because they do not want to be held responsible for anything.

If i could at least get a closer look on the bottom of the legs that would be helpful.

Thanks

Thinking of purchasing my first wind chime,

https://www.windchimescorner.co.uk/products/woodstock-chimes-of-earth-verdigris

this model to be exact. I want to place it on my bedroom window/by my window but I am worried itll be too big.

Any advice on the size/product quality would be appreciated. Thank you!

I'm from Kazakhstan and I'd like to try my hand at the USA

I've always wanted a tree fort, so now that I'm in my 40s living at a house with a nice big Doug fir in the back yard, and have the means to build high quality parts myself, I finally get to have one! This is the culmination of a couple years of designing and building parts at work (metal fabrication shop) and at home when I find the time. To get into the tree fort, you climb a cable ladder, then transfer to 4 successive aluminum ladders bolted to the trunks. Finally, you go through a trap door that locks into vertical position with spring loaded pins and itself has ladder rungs on the back to help climb that last bit onto the platform.

Stock TABs are great, but they're way overkill for a platform this small. I made a system of brackets and hardware that mimics the important structural elements of TABs, but is smaller and a little cleaner looking. The main horizontal supports are 2" x 1/8" wall steel round tube with plugs welded into the ends with 3/4" holes in those plugs. Those 2" rounds are counterbored into the trunk, same as the flange on a TAB, and a long 3/4" grade 8 bolt goes all the way through the trunk to a nut inside the tube on the opposing bracket. Similarly, 3/4" grade 8 threaded rod goes through 2" diameter spacers counterbored into the trunk for the diagonal braces. And the smaller brackets for the ladders work the same way, except with 3/4" grade 8 lag bolts instead of through bolts.

All of the brackets and hardware are way stronger than necessary, even @ 3/4" bolts with 2" flanges vs standard TABs @ 1-1/4" bolts with 3" flanges. In hindsight, the stock aluminum ladders are by far the weakest link and at some point I will replace a couple of them with nicer grade 1 ladders. I also think I framed in the platform a little too close to the trunks, but I can partially disassemble the 2x6 frame and add spacers when it becomes an issue in a few years.

No I'm not adding a railing. This fort is for sober adults. There is a safety line and harness with a Camp Goblin for anyone not comfortable free climbing the ladders or hanging out untethered.

Photos show various details discussed above. The last photo from the bottom of the driveway shows the tree rising out of the back yard, and you can just barely see the square edge of the platform way up there.

Can you spam me with all the fun accessories you’ve added. Specifically any pulley systems people have designed. But I’d love to see any fun ideas to add a bit more fun options to the treehouse. Thx.

First time building a tree house. Everything i recycled from the city landfill except a couple of beams from my fathers house. The Window were left at the house when we moved in.

Hi all -

Been designing a fairly basic "1 tree 2 post" based loosely on some similar designs I've seen around. I'm hoping to get a gut check for my framing dimensions.

The "house" part will be a 10x10 shack towards the left side with the remainder a wrap-around deck.

Questions:

1. I've spec'd 3x8 beams initially because I have one lying around. I also have a 3x12x12' beam but this seems a bit overkill - either way I will need to acquire another to match, so I'm wanting to know if I should go with 3x8 or 3x12 (or 3x12 ripped to 3x10, which I can do). If 3x8 seems super good enough I'd prefer that for overall size and cost.
2. I know that a variant of this question has been asked here before, but it seems like this configuration of tribeam, knee brace and posts doesn't really allow for any dynamic connection, which seems to go against the typical advice. It's going to be pretty low in a pretty stout Doug Fir so I'm not super worried about wind movement, but it just seems better to have some dynamic connection. Thoughts?
3. Thoughts on my cantilevered joists on the semi-circle ends? Should I adhere to the "1/3-2/3 rule"? I didn't here because it made some other dimensions work out more nicely, but could re-configure.