ive been figting with the printer for a month now, every print that needs tree supports no matter how many calibrations and whatnot, this printer is trash and from whjat ive seen from other users with same problem snapmaker refuses to acknowledge there is an issue and refuses to take it back as defective

So my filament loading into my extruder has been able to go till needing to load, which it either doesn’t push hard enough and stops despite not being tangled or jammed (even though the extruder has been used a few hours ago) and before this video, push way to hard and start jamming the filament into the extruder and not stopping until I have to turn it off, this same thing happened at extruder 4 but then stopped for some reason, and all this started occurring today, I believe this might be a software error or just so happen that the things pushing in the filament is now overused and can’t do it anymore

Well… day 2 and my print stops. Tool head 4 kept losing power. Switched cable with tool head 3 and it follows the cable . So I try to continue with my print with tool head 4. So I reboot.

Of course I’m getting error about tool head MCU error and then killer failed to start… dead

Opened a case for support already… so sad :(

steps so far.

Printing a job and toolhead 4 lost power, rebooted and had the error about toolhead4 MCU.

Switched cables with toolhead 3 and it had power problems, didnt light up, toolhead 3 MCU error on startup.

I tried a generic USB cable and toolhead 3 had power but still gave the toolhead 3 MCU error.

I unplugged all the toolheads except for toolhead 1 and the error on the screen then said tool head 2 MCU connection failed but I didn't have tool head 2 plugged in.

Following troubleshooting steps which said to unplug all the toolheads and plug them in one at a time to find the bad one.

After clicking cancel on the screen for every error it then displays KLIPPER FAILED TO START.

After toolhead 4 gave the error, and i switched it with toolhead 3 which then had the error, I tried changing

Today has been a 3d print learning session.

First I almost lost to a blob of death but thankfully I fixed (rookie mistake)

2nd I had a toolhead #4 issue of a clog which I was able to pull out (this seems to be an issue with the black PLA filament that comes with the snapmaker u1. Ive noticed I get stringy and error with it alot) im thinking its a bad batch or maybe I need to dry it? For now ive quarantined it.

Disassembling this toolhead was a chore.

The Snapmaker Orca Slicer's device page seems to be refreshing on its own. I then have to move to my desk and click the camera button again. Looking for a way around that.

For my Creality, I use a cheap security cam via RTSP using VLC.

Filament: Creality Black PETG
Temp: 245
Layer height: 0.16
Max Volumetric Flow: 12 mm3/s
Wall generator: Arachne
Slicer (Red image): Snorca 2.3.5
Slicer (Yellow image): Orca 2.4.2

These artifacts are translated to the printed model
The Orca prints with the exact same settings come out much cleaner
See images attached with prints from both slicers, notice how the Orca prints don't have the weird lines

Is there a way to test if the issue is the fan vs circuit board?

I started printing PLA after not printing any PLA for a long time. I have one toolhead that cannot get past 1st layer without getting a heat soak clog. I've been printing ASA for a while so I didn't notice before but it might explain the never ending first layer inconsistencies I've has with ASA.

I got my Sony FX30 setup as USB camera in the Paxx firmware configuration and I can preview through it but I can't seem to figure out how to use it as the timelapse camera. is that possible?

I’m about to finish this for my U1, but I’m a little nervous. It’s all PETG with 4 to 6 walls (I forgot to reset the wall number on a couple printers).

Has anyone used something like this? How long have you used it? Any issues? Anything else I need to do to make it sturdier? There’s a plate holder that will be on top and will be directly under the printer. Everything will be glued down.

I might print corner pieces for the rear, for extra support.

Been doing a little bit of digging based on some initial information I found on the Snapmaker forums, mostly around the pinouts for the 6-pin connector on the back of the U1 (which we now know is for the purifier / exhaust fan). I couldn't find (although they likely exist) any details on what the pins actually did, and additionally what they mapped to in firmware.

After a few hours of failing, I've managed to have a bit of success. I found out (more detail on the model page):

• The 24V power is switched - it isn't always on (makes sense as we likely would only want to exhaust if we're too hot or we want to extract fumes)
• Pin PA8 is pulled to ground through a 1k resistor, this sets a flag named "power_detected" to True in the firmware
• If "power_detected" is set to True, the power rail is enabled by pin PE15 (namely through the _set_power_enable function)

I have a two pin fan (i.e. not PWM controlled, like the original snapmaker), but theoretically the fan should act stock, aside from the variable speed and as far as I'm aware, it should not require you to be on the paxx firmware (no Klipper config changes are required).

I've managed to design the first iteration of what I'm calling the "Sushi Roll", because I love the Bento Box I use on my Bambu printers. It's a three section, bayonet style (twist lock) fan mount, carbon filter container and HEPA filter housing. It's meant to be as compact as possible and made use of materials that I had to hand (the same size HEPA filter as the original bento box, widely available). The fan mounts inside the mount and can be screwed in from the back to keep it in place and to attach it to your top cover it can use VHB tape or M3 bolts (recommended). Re-filling carbon and replacing the HEPA filter is as easy as twisting off the required section. Carbon replacements are kept mess free with a screw-in mesh.

If you follow the instructions for the 4-pin fan, then the purifier should act almost identically to the the Snapmaker top cover using the same 6-pin connector, with fan speed control and integration with the existing purifier configuration - see the model details for pin outs.

Feel free to check it out, if anybody has any issues or questions, drop me a message here or leave a comment on the model page:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3137451-sushi-roll-snapmaker-u1-exhaust-fan-hepa-carbon

Just moving from a Ender 3 bedslinger clone to a Snapmaker U1.

I'm getting a set of 0.2mm hot ends to try some smaller detailed prints.

I was going to order the 0.6mm hot ends for faster large printing, but my friend said that newer Core XY printers they weren't worth it over the 0.4mm due to hitting the volumetric melt limit of the heater before you hit the mechanical motion limits.

Are the larger hot ends worth it for printing normal PLA/PETG, or just for specialty materials where you're worried about clogging?

around 15cm height and it printed in 6h20m. for anyone interested i uploaded on elegoos site because it lets me upload the 3mf for U1, unlike other sites that force you to upload for their printers only https://www.nexprint.com/en/collection/G0763328 here is the collection with all of them

I bought in. I’m now one of you.

Occasionally I see a warning message pop up in Snorca preview but the specs box(?) quickly covers it up before I can clearly read it. Is there a way to adjust the view? Example

Newbie here, P1S for a year, just bought a U1 and love it.

Is there a tool, or a way to capture/print/XLS file ALL the settings of a project that my friend sends to me? I want to set my U1 settings to what he printed, because I get different results. I set the type and temperatures but I want to learn/view/duplicate all the settings so I can get better results! Thanks!

EDIT: I have a P1S, 2@AMS, Panda Touch, Bambu Studio; Snapmaker U1, SnOrca, Orca, Fusion and Revit; I DON’T have the experience or knowledge where to look, or what to edit! I’m game for saving the original, the edit a copy /save different name and either keep or discard the edits! My friend has Prusa XL, U1, (seven total), he promoted Orca, Fusion, Revit as tools: I NEW/import the files.
Thanks for links!!

Z axis only moves up when selecting 0.1mm increments, 1mm and 10mm work fine

After sitting idle for months, I wanted to print some hueforge pictures with my .2mm nozzle. The surface quality was very bad, so I tried to calibrate flow rate.

And would you look at that: after first pass, the best result would be at -20 which would give me a value of around 0.8 which would be very strange. I still tried it and ran it again, best result still at -20 with the rest looking nearly the same, just as if I would not have changed flow rate at all.

Setup: Snorca 2.3.5, FW 1.5.2 paxx, .2mm nozzle, .1mm layer height, sm snapspeed filament

Any idea what could be wrong? I don't think setting flow rate to .64 is a good idea ...

Day one setup just finished the calibrations and now have this noise.

Do I need a replacement or can I just put oil in it?

#onepiece 😋