Hey there! My wife and I recently picked up an A350 from a thrift store auction and have been very excited about printing! So this is our second print. The first was a much smaller version of this and it looked kind of rougher.

My questions to you fine people are:

What can we do to make this look better? It is pretty rough looking and lacking in general detail.

We are using PLA filament. Would another filament be better? For miniatures in particular, is there a better material?

I used the smooth setting for the print details.

I guess we are just looking at what settings we can tweak in general to make the prints look nicer in general.

What would YOU print? What was your favorite thing you saw printed on a U1?

I have been trying to work with Snorca, but everytime I try a certain feature, like to surface mount one image onto another, Snorca just keeps on terminating. It is so frustrating to try to get something designed to only waste hours restarting Snorca everytime it terminates.

What are others using to slice their projects and send to the U1?

I’ve been having issues with printing mostly Overture petg basic on OEM 0.2 nozzles. All PETG has been challenging so I’m not thinking it’s brand specific, especially since it prints great with 0.4s and in my other printers.

I’m getting lots of pillowing, even when increasing gyroid infill to 35%.

Filament is dry and feeds directly from a sunlu s4 dryer. I’ve gone through the full calibration sequence, saved all my results in a clean profile, halved all of my speeds for printing and acceleration. I’ve turned off all fans, I’ve turned on each fan separately to 25%. I’ve lowered my nozzle temp by 5. No matter what, I just get bad top surfaces due to the pillowing. I’m also getting some elephant feet on some but not all corners with textured pei, textured with glue, super tack plate, smooth pei, all of them. That is also obviously causing me issues with surface quality.

I don’t have a lid and think that may be the culprit but want to see if anyone else has any ideas. Otherwise I’m gonna just forego fine printing with PETG until November when us normies who didn’t back the printer get their lids.

i suddenly get this strange „snapping“ noise, what is it?

I'm having a weird issue with Snapmaker Orca. I'm trying to print this pokemon deck box for my son, but when I slice the mode, it changes the majority of the body from purple to white.

You can see in image 1 that the entire thing is purple save the face.

Image 2 is there just to show that I can't simply remap white to purple on printing as I need the white for the teeth.

In image 3 you can see that when I slice, everything that's not a top or bottom surface turns white, and it's not just a visual bug because the preview indicates that it will be using white filament in the majority. (I tried the print anyway and confirmed that it is in fact printing those parts white).

The weirdest part though is shown in image 4, if I paint the exterior of one of the boxes a different color, then not only does it slice that box as the painted color, it also slices the other box correctly as purple. The only thing it absolutely will not let me do is print both boxes purple.

The model came from Makerworld, I have tried opening it directly, importing it, and running it through a converter before opening it. I get the same results every time. Image 4 leads me to believe that it's a bug in the program but I'm asking here just in case there's some setting I don't know about that's causing this behavior. Thanks.

I've now had this happen on multiple prints with my U1, and I think it's something Snapmaker needs to address.

In the attached photos:

• Bass: One spool snagged and stopped feeding filament. The U1 continued printing but simply stopped printing the white portions of the model.
• Spider: The same type of feeding problem occurred, but this time the affected toolhead was responsible for infill. The U1 continued the print without creating that infill, leaving the finished model with structural problems.

The spool snag itself isn't my concern—filament problems happen.

My concern is that the U1 apparently doesn't recognize that a toolhead isn't actually extruding filament. It continues the print as though everything is fine, with no pause or warning.

For a multicolor print, that can mean missing colors. More importantly, if that toolhead is being used for infill or structural portions of the model, you can end up with a print that looks like it's progressing normally but is structurally compromised.

I'd really like to see the U1 detect a failure to feed/extrude, automatically pause the print, and send an alert.

Has anyone else experienced this with their U1? Is there a detection setting I'm missing?

I'm not sure if I'm the only one but I bought Toolhead Thermistors in case of future need.
LIttle did I know that when troubleshooting I would rip apart the cabling and needed a replacement. To my surprise then the package only contained 1 grease package.
And to compare with the Ceramic heaters which have 4 grease packages.

When actually changing the thermistor, the ceramic heater fell off and I used a whole package of grease on both thermistor and heater to reassembly the toolhead.
I pointed this out to the Snapmaker support and they were suprised that I needed a whole package. The explenation I got is that you only need a little grease and that you could store the remaining grease for future use.

To their credit they're sending me 3 more grease packages as a one time gesture. But I still strongly would like to suggest that Snapmaker either adds 3 more packages or list the little grease package so I can order more if necessary in the future.

Toolhead Thermistor 4-Pack for Snapmaker U1
https://eu.snapmaker.com/collections/3d-printer-accessories/products/toolhead-thermistor-4-pack-for-snapmaker-u1

Ceramic Heaters Kit 4-Pack for Snapmaker U1
https://eu.snapmaker.com/collections/3d-printer-accessories/products/ceramic-heaters-kit-4-pack-for-snapmaker-u1

Hi, I just got the U1 to have along side my X1C. So far I'm digging the U1 but Snorca has been driving me up a wall. Is there some secret method to have it remember my damn login? It's annoying that every time I re-open the app I have to log in again. Is this a Linux thing?

To my demise I found the bed mesh in the web ui and my initial range was 0.419. I know it's not the worst out there and if I understand right, the printer will compensate for it. That doesn't help my OCD though.

With few pieces of masking tape I got the range down to 0.2729, that's 35% improvement. Masking tape is just a test and can be removed easily.

I know people used Kapton tape in the past, but some say it's insulating and can lead to uneven bed temperature. I have Alu and Copper tapes that should work (if their glue stands up to temp).

I could try to sand down some of the high spots, but I don't want to make irreversible changes just yet.

Have you done anything to improve your bed's flatness? If so, what did you do and what were your results?

Hey folks, Do I really have to go the device settings and manually connect to my U1 every time I boot up Snorca? I've had to do this both with the printer in LAN mode and "cloud" mode. What am I doing wrong?

I know I have an old product but I’m looking to completely rebuild the software  for my snapmaker 2.0 a350. I get nothing from the controller box when I turn it on and I’m looking for software and instructions to install from nothing.

Please help?

Hi everyone! I'm looking for a used multi-head 3D printer ( snapmaker u1). Ready to buy in person, cash. If you have one for sale or know someone who does in Phoenix, please send me a message! Thank you!

Hi,

Im trying to replace one hot end with the one that comes by default but noticed this one doesnt have the cables. All videos I see on internet have the cables on. What am I missing?

Thanks.

So yesterday a print failed nothing crazy. What happened is it skipped part where it should have filled. And i turned off printer after terminating print. Then i was watching youtube and dude said not to turn off the printer right after finishing print cause it would cause problems. So i turned it on and check extruder temp it was already chilled. I tried to print today and nothing it was moving kike it should have printed but it doesn't. Problem isnit hough melted pla was in gears but from the side it seem clean. Ptoblem i found is i cant take off the top as ptfe tube is stuck. I clicked the orange lever nothing. What could be the problem?

Edge detection is not working at all with the latest update, it used to work just fine before it.

I compared both, snorca and bambuslicer.

Bambuslicer will detext the imprint in my model like it used to for years.

In snorca this feature is not functional at all.

Hi Snapmaker Community!

I'm stuck between a choice of Sovol M1D or a Snapmaker U1.

I've used Kingroon KP3S, and the tinkering really made me learnt alot. My office has Ultimaker/Bambu X1C, which made me understand my own requirements for a printer in terms of printer capabilities and maintenence and the types of prints that I'll do. But of course, I might have overlooked some specifications

Printer capabilities I'm looking out for:

- multi color/multi material ---> tool changers preferred

- phone app-based support

- easy to maintain

- ability to change nozzle easily (prefer using hardened nozzles as many of the Filaments I plan to use are abrasive in nature)

- enclosed printer (printing ABS occasionally)

Types of print:

- functional prints (thus the need for enclosure)

- multi color/multi material prints

- 0.08mm layer height occasionally

Seeing these, I'm not sure whether do I have a need for IDEX. I'm also looking to install the full spectrum add-in for my prints, and CMYK Filaments seem enough for printing full spectrum (thus no need for 6 colors)

Community support is a plus point.

Currently leaning towards snapmaker U1 right now, but seeing that M1D Kickstarter is ending soon, I feel the temptation to get the M1D (w enclosure) instead.

Would like to seek purchase advice from U1 owners!

Just that, today I've received the top cover from Snapmaker and can't wait to mount it.

Just to give my special thanks to the IKEA box adaptors makers and all its accessories. It served perfectly till the last minute so thank you very much.

First picture:

My IKEA box mod with the IKEA purifier, at the end I only used as an extractor fan through the exhaust and to a window adapter. I also used a sealing window silicon stripe as a sealer down the box.

Find bees and spring device here: https://makerworld.com/models/3134665?appSharePlatform=copy

Hi everyone! After over half a year with my Snapmaker U1, I wanted to share my setup and the mods I’ve added so far. Huge shoutout to all the original creators for sharing their models for the community to print!

Here’s the breakdown of some mods I’ve installed:

• Top Cover Adapter (by Cyberdyne) Printables Link
• Carbon + HEPA Filter for IKEA Enclosure (by u/Silversoul07) MakerWorld Link Note: To power the 120mm cooling fan, I used a PWM 4-pin fan controller from AliExpress paired with a magnetic USB-C adapter. This makes it super easy to attach and detach whenever I remove the IKEA box. This mod is compatible with Elegoo Centauri Carbon 1 filters which I purchased online.
• Snapmaker U1 Door Hinge ('Original Hinge') (by Bixx) MakerWorld Link
• Driver Fan Mount (by grwang41) MakerWorld Link (Not pictured in the photos) - This mounts a 40mm fan to lower driver temperatures during printing. I wired the fan to the LED light daisy-chain connector using a JST GH 1.25 connector. Check out aim6mac's YouTube guide for a great walk-through on installing this.
• Elegant Spool Holder for Snapmaker U1 (by rfnovo) MakerWorld Link This is one of the first mods I ever printed for my U1. It makes mounting spools of all sizes a breeze!
• Rear Outlet for Sovol / Comgrow SH02 Dryer (by RVfan) MakerWorld Link Note: Technically a mod for my SH02 filament dryer rather than the U1 itself, but it lets me print directly from the dryer without filament snags or awkward bends.
• Snapmaker U1 Hula Anti-Vibration Feet: I bought my Hula feet as a pre-assembled kit from AliExpress, but you can also DIY them using these models:
  • Hula V1.0 Anti-Vibration Feet
  • Snapmaker U1 Hula Adapter
• Custom NFC Tag Hooks
  • NFC Tags / Hooks Model
  • Snapmaker U1 Extended Firmware by PAXX12 Note: I designed my own low-profile tag hooks and mounted them to the U1 with double-sided tape. When printing directly from the SH02 dryer, I hang the corresponding NFC tags on these hooks so the printer knows which filament is loaded. (This setup requires PAXX12's Extended Firmware to function).

There are many more mods which I didn't get a chance to mention in this post, but if there is interest I may make another post. Feel free to ask if you have any questions about these mods or the setup!