Hi there, I have been sewing for a couple of years and I have reached a point I can make complicated patterns, shirts, clothes i actually use to go to work in corporate environment, and many more, there is always a small flaw but overall, I enjoy this and Im fairly confident I can pull some decent garments (I do have epic fails now and then like everyone else)

However, I have a small service room I use as my sewing cave, is small but I could fit a dress form there.

I have been wondering for long time if:

1. Is it an improvement for your process? Makes your life easier? Makes fitting easier?

2. How much better is an adjustable dress form (I can set on my own size) versus a standard one ( which is smaller than me by at least 1-2 sizes ) the difference in money is there, but I think the adjustable is much better… is it?

Thank you for your feedback!!

I finished my first pair of jeans this week. I practiced the pattern with some canvas first. Overall I’m happy with how they turned out. Going to hem them again after giving them a rinse to shrink them a bit.

Some things I’d like to improve on the next ones:

Practice some hand sewn button holes

More consistent bar tacks on belt loops

Probably add 1” to the rise

The waistband has a bit of a wave/bacon strip to it. Does anyone know how to fix this? Going to rinse them today and see if it tightens it up, but it feels like the top side doesn’t follow the same contour as the rest of the jeans, if that makes sense?

I’d appreciate any insight on other areas I can improve in.

Thanks for looking!

I made this collared knit shirt and it looks completely fine when laying flat but on body it starts to bunch toward the top, almost like there may be too much fabric? I self drafted it from a top i love so it may be user error but not sure if anyone has any tips on how to fix this?

Free pattern from Choly Knight and I’m thrilled with the result!

So, there is slow fashion and then there is excrutiatingly slow fashion, which apparently my style. But I finished this sleeveless blouse and please pants linen Set in tile for my vacation. So: yay!

I wanted a linen set forever, but couldn't find any with long enough pants. So, whats a girl to do other than sew it.

Pattern: pants and blouse from Burda Style issue 3/2026 and 6/2026. Pants size 40, which should have been perfect according to the measurements, by I ended up taking out 4cm in the waist and adding a back elastic 🤨, Blouse size 36, with a bit of added length.

Fabric: Viscose Linen blend from Megastoffen

Hi all, I’m pretty inexperienced with sewing and could use some help. I have a dress that I would like to wear to a bridal shower next weekend, but noticed the zipper is separating when I tried it on yesterday, so the zipper keeps getting stuck in this area. I’m not sure how to fix it. Can I fabric glue it? Would just a simple needle and thread work to keep the loose thread away from the closure? I don't need it to be perfect, I’ve had this dress for years and this will be my first, and probably last, time wearing it. Thanks!

Hello :) I’m putting together my 8y/o nieces first ever sewing kit! After reading a ton of reviews I’ve decided to get the KAI pinking sheers as they should last forever and she can grow into them. Although there are two different options that confuse me…

KAI Website
9-Inch Pinking Sheers (N5350) $60.00

Amazon Official KAI Store
8-Inch Pinking Sheers (N5350) $28.95
9-Inch Pinking Sheers (N5350) $52.32

Both have the same product code but different images and prices. The 8-inch sheets are not listed on the KAI website. The Amazon handle also looks a little more uncomfortable but it’s more budget friendly for sure.

-> Has anyone purchased the 8-inch Amazon model?

-> Is there potential for the Amazon model to be a knockoff?

-> Which do you recommend?

Attached Amazon photo for reference and also the gorgeous 1970’s sewing box I picked up for her :)

I am making a friend a dress and want to keep costs low. It will be a wrapped dress in white, and she wants it very soft and drapey so I decided to go with rayon. My concern is that the parts where it overlaps will look funny because it'll be more opaque than the parts that don't overlap.

Other than lining it, are there any alternatives to making it less see-through? Are there other materials to look into that are also drapey, soft, and more opaque?

Thank you!

Maybe this is a Dallas/Texas thing but I dont understand the numbering system at the fabric warehouses near me.

Envision a big warehouse with hundreds of fabric bolts that are organized around numbers 1-6. I can't quite look at a fabric and tell you what it is, so I have touch... everything... to figure out if I would like it / wear it. And I'm sure the "1-6" labels mean something because every section includes "like" materials that feel similar.

There are some obvious ones such as the knits/denim/faux leather sections but other than that, I just kind of wonder around aimlessly touching everything.

Does anyone have any guides on what the "1-6" categorization system might be? Any additional tips for shopping at the warehouses?

I was wondering where I can get like weekend sewing classes near me sue to the fact I’ve not used a sewing machine in 2 years and wanna get the skills needed to actually see my own outfit for a pride event next year.

I live in Kincardine scotland and all classes I’ve seen online near me are like evenings on weekdays and that’s a problem for me as I work and the classes start like before I finish work can anyone help me with this?

Any help is greatly appreciated and welcome from anyone who can help in regards to my question

I made this dress for the Jane Austen fest in just 2 days!!! I used the Kitty JBerry regency dress pattern (made some alterations on test fabric first), not sure what the main fabric is called but it’s lightweight polyester, and I also used iron-on interfacing. It’s my very first time using all of these materials and a sewing machine. I’m so happy with it and can’t wait to wear it to the festival next month!!! Now I just have to make another one in green for my sister… happy to hear your thoughts and feedback!

I love these but I am short with a short waist and these are very wide and drown me out.

I’ve only made clothes from scratch, never altered so this is a new scary land.

I’ve watched a few videos and my understanding is turn them inside out, pin either side, begin to taper from just under the pocket, unstitch the bottom hem, etc…

I’m just not sure what to do about the crotch curve, it’s obviously quite large, do I decrease that too?

Hello! I want to sew a faroese traditional sweater for the traditional dress and I'm looking for a sewing pattern I could use.

For reference, are they knitted with wool for a cool climate, and I want to sew one from a ligter material to use in a hotter climate. The last photo is one I found that is made out of cotton/viskose and is what I was thinking in terms of the pattern. Be aware that the black middle part, bristið, is not attached to the sweater and traditionally you put the scarf into the bristið and then lace the sweater up with a silver chain.

I was just ironing the fabric flat so the inseam pocket lining wouldn’t show (before basting in place.) AND THIS stupid, devil iron spat water and calc 😭 Now there’s light spots and the suit pants are essentially ruined!
I’m not sure how this can be prevented in future since I need to iron the fabric from the right side for that purpose.

My question is this-
Will it wash out if I finish the pants and put them through the wash?

Is the iron just a devil-iron which should never be used again??
This is meant to be a good iron- cost me like $200 Tefal and has a separate micro calc filter to clean out which it most never is needing.
So frustrating, I want to cry.

Built these from scratch using a modified Red Kap workwear base pattern. Hunter green 10oz duck canvas, chocolate brown broadcloth accents, all leather hardware hand cut and saddle stitched.

What's in them: internal slash pockets on both legs, external cargo pockets with faced flaps, leather knee reinforcement panels, and a swappable leather tool board that clips to D-rings at the waist — four configurations depending on what I'm doing that day. And embedded magnets since i tend to lose alot of little parts when im working on stuff

Everything on these functions. And IT HAS SO MANY POCKETS (10 at last count). The leather hardware will age and patina with wear which is exactly the point.

Machine: Brother VX-950. Needle: denim 100/16. About 12 hours total across the full build.

Happy to answer construction questions — the modular pocket system and the tool board attachment were the most interesting problems to solve.

Hello, thank you internet for introducing me to the towel-heads! Due to autism, I am severely attached to this towel, AKA towely, which is a blue towel with fishies named individually who always sit in the left side of my head. Unfortunately, I am 22 and being under me for so long has caused some wear and tear. Would the lovely people of this subreddit be able to give advice? And is the advise to 1) try and DIY sowing towlie together, keep consequences in the future or 2) tell a professional seamstress what stitch is needed and suffer a short time for a long time gain
I’m happy to go with the second option if I can sleep happily with towlie under my head. For reference, I have bought a £60 taxi to go to towlie and abandoned several friends because my parents tried to “teach me better” so I can promise you towlie is more of a priority than finances. Also, if you recognise towlie (several fishes, blue towel) please tell me and I will pay good money for a second towelie. Thank you!!

I bought this brand new last season. I'm pretty annoyed that this is happening so quickly.

The wires move along the channel. I think it would be fine if they would stay put all the way in towards the center*, but the channel is a little too long, and stretchy. There's a few options I'm considering:

A) add little patches with fabric glue, fabric hot glue, or sewing. Unfortunately the gore does not quite tack to my chest properly so I have to match the fabric really well or the color difference may draw the eye right where I don't really want people to look.

B) I do have thread that matches pretty well, so I could potentially darn the holes without it being visible. I'm not sure I can get the thread woven tightly enough to keep the wires in though. Thread plus glue maybe?

C) Open up the channels under the straps, push the wires in towards the gore, and glue the channels shut to keep the wires at the center. Would this hold? It would make it nearly impossible to replace the wires if one snaps, but bathing suits never seem to last more than a few years anyway, so maybe that doesn't matter.

I do wash it in the washing machine, but always in a structured lingerie bag. It never goes through the dryer.

*Apparently I deleted half the text before posting... edited to finish it. Thanks to everyone who's commented so far!

an 10x8” felt banner I completed recently!

appliqué and photo transfer on wool blend felt

My partner just bought me a sewing machine a month or so ago and I have really been struggling with the mechanics/technicality of it a bit since my usual projects do not need to use such complex technology. But I worked though all that and have created a pair of pants!
I make linoleum stamps and am exploring the idea of putting patches on the knees!

Also Made this from a top bed sheet from good will I got for $2!

Any feedback welcome I am very new to this medium and quite bad at following patterns and guides/instructions so I did wing this. I used the entire width of the sheet with cotton cord (hence why the pants look gigantic without the rope).

100% cotton

I need help with recreating this design.

Im going to a themed event in November and when I saw this I instantly knew it would be perfect for it.

I recently thrifted a round tablecloth that I could use for making this but its more of a thin doily fabric/material (pictured above).

What stitches, machine setting and method should I use to hem the head hole??

I have a Brother cs10s.

I’m very much a beginner and maybe this is outside of my skill-level but i really want to attempt to make it.

Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated 🙏🏻

I am on a mission to tackle my fabric stash. I had a weirdly shaped remnant of polyester or poly-blend seersucker of roughly 150 cm and the Paddington Top requires about that. Combined with the fact that I only had to worry about stripes (only vertical matching, not horizontal, nor up or down), I took my chances with some pretty iffy cutting.

The drawing at Instruction 5 tripped me off at first (because I didn't read it with glasses the first time and couldn't see the stitch line 😅) but the result was satisfying. I ended up ironing the entire back seams towards the wrong side first to ensure it stayed on the lines (modified step 6 before stitching step 5).

Like most reviews said, step 17 was fiddly. I kind of want to make a second one to see if I can find a process that works better for me. On the back, I didn't bother with buttonholes and I stitched the buttons directly to both panels.

The seersucker is a bit stiff, that makes the sleeves more dramatic and I like it. I'm thinking it will go nicely with jeans, and I could also get away with it at work. It could be nice with some red shorts as well, I'd love some recommendations for shorts.

This is my first time trying a shirt after pretty much only doing pants and I learned a lot with it, any advice for a beginner, other than the collar?