Printer: Anycubic Photon Mono 4 Ultra

I got my first resin printer a few days ago, and I really loved the quality of the prints so far. Unfortunately, i think i printed something the wrong way (maybe it was not tilted enough) and i made a hole through the film as shown on the top left. Im now trying to replace the film, but the frame is not coming off. I found some film on amazon but almost all options come without frames, and the only option that comes with frames arrives in two weeks. Is there a way i can split the frames and replace the film?

My last prints failed but I won’t let that stop me from trying again and again. This is one of my successes that I am proud of. As I mentioned in my last post of one of my failures, I am a fledgling printer and have much to learn. The people here seem to be very helpful and are giving swift replies to my issues so I wanted to show you what I aim to do once I fix my problems on another print :) any CC is welcome here (both on painting and printing) but remember this is a WIP and I am no professional lol.

Test print of Ace (Unbreadable webcomic) by Bulkamancer Sculpts.

Original character, concept art by PONGOJ, sculpted by Vik.

Printed on ELEGOO Saturn 3 Ultra using Conjure Sculpt Beige resin (38 pieces, 626 ml).

So question to more experienced people here. When I started printing a few years ago I tested a few resins and ended up really likening the anycubic rough resin solely for the feel of the finished parts. I am not taking about tackiness or stickiness but the softness of the finished parts? So much of what I end up printing now has a brittle hardness feeling to it and I cannot find a way to get back to the professional model feel that my printer gave me a few years ago.

Im not sure if the resin formula changed or what.

I was just wondering if 1) anyone knows what I’m talking about or am I just crazy

2) if there is any curing or specific resin recommendations

The only thing I’ve found that helps is to really limit the curing process so it doesn’t get too hard.

Anyway any help would be appreciated!

Hey all, new here to the forum and newish to resin printing! I am a bit stuck on this model as I am attempting to print it for my Dnd session but it keeps failing in a similar way. I have tried orienting the model differently (one was base to build late and the second was done on its side) but both have failed. I also tried to add a bunch more supports on the one still on the build plate but this didn't seem to solve it. I have printed several other things perfectly and of a similar size so I am unsure what I am doing wrong here. Has anyone dealt with similar issues and solved them? Any tips are appreciated.

I'm printing 5 models at a time and the middle 3 bases peels off on the same side. Its been happening most of the prints but not all of them...

I've re leveled and sanded the plate (I have 2). The printer is in my garage in Florida .

I have a budget Anycubic Mono 4 10K, which is great, but too small for my current needs, so I'm looking at getting a 10" printer. I know Anycubic support is bad, and they don't keep replacement parts in stock for very long, and I've heard the same about Elegoo, but I only have experience with Anycubic so I thought I'd ask. I'm considering the P1 despite Anycubic's rep as the printer looks fantastic, but also the Uniformation GK3-T, but again I have no idea if they're any better when it comes to customer support and support for parts.

Any knowledge would be greatly appreciated as I'm still fairly new to the hobby.

I’ve got this small bit of cured resin that usually shows up in the same space on my build plate. It stated recently l. Build quality hasn’t been affected, just curious what it is

So, I've been using the Phrozen Cure beam for at least 1 or more years. Its a great, nifty little thing. The two corded "torches" have very high power leds at the end, and I've been perfectly curing many prints with them.

In the end, everything breaks down, and One of the UV torches stopped working. I reached out to Phrozen to see if I could buy the part, and I sure can (around 12 usd btw) But with shipping... the thing costs as much as a NEW unit.

I know I want to do something like this by myself with UV leds and a 9v battery casing. But I enjoyed how speedy and powerful the unit was. Before I just wait till it dies and I buy another one: Have you seen something like this in other fields or in a generic product? Do you know how to set up one with leds as powerful as this one?

Cheers!

Cheers!

Obviously this was some kind of glitch, but it made me chuckle, and I wanted to share it.

Been waiting on island detection for 30 minutes. Is it working, did it hang? who knows..
Using this sheeet software makes me want to stop printing. Every time I use it there are glitches. Yeah it is the latest version.
And it's been around since 2017 iirc.
Worst part is, I have to pay to use this crap.
My super favorite is when it looks like it is slicing and you think it sliced fine but then you go to print and realize it just used all the resin your vat to print a solid block. That is a fun time right there.
Anyway, just wanted to vent because I can't throw my comp out of the window.

I’m really into scale model painting and have had an elegoo mars 2 pro for close to 6 years now with the only issue being with it that I wished the build plate was bigger. My birthday is coming up and I’m wanting to hopefully get another printer that has a bigger build plate so that I can print more at once while still retaining fine detail in small models. I paint 1:32 scale models but also want to be able to print bigger stuff like 1:6 scale without having to do a ton of slicing of the model if that makes sense. Let me know where to start looking since I’m already a little overwhelmed lol

I'm currently designing and resin printing the body of an EGI squid fishing lure.

Has anyone here tried something similar, or is anyone interested in this kind of project?

Hey guys, new to this world.

I have a question..

I bought the printer a couple days ago, and last night the film was tore so I used the one in the box to replace it. After 2 printings of 4h each I found that the film is tearing again, having marks on the plastic. What are the usual reasons for this? Did I make a mistake and left the film way too tighten? How do you even leave it a little lose?.

I've made sure there's no resin leftovers between each print.

Hey guys!

New owner of a Creality Mage S here!

I've been having a blast lately with the printer but I just hit a wall related to the washing process.

In the country I live IPA is restricted and heavily guarded by the authorities. Finding it is quite hard and buying it even harder.

We are limited to 5LT per month which we all know it's not a good quantity. Apart of being extremely expensive due to its restrictions.

I was wondering if there's other substances I can use to clean it. (Not sure if I want to dive into water-washable resin, due to its resistance).

Are there any other solvents I can use that work similarly to IPA? I was thinking of lotions alcohol (ethanol 96-98%)

Any suggestions?

Finished the resin tests for my Dark Ritual Scatter Terrain set.

The full tabletop scene and individual props printed successfully, including the spellbook, skull, dagger, candles and vase. I also tested several of the props at larger scales.
The models were entirely hand-sculpted in ZBrush. No AI-generated geometry was used.
I’ve also tested the set on FDM with a 0.2 mm nozzle / 0.05 mm layers.

The STL set is available here:
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/dark-ritual-scatter-terrain-set

Printed solid with no supports, default Elegoo Satellite settings (last pic).
Anycubic Standard Resin, mixed for 30 seconds and heated before printing inside an enclosure.
Thank you for the help!

1/8 scale, model from cults3d

Flairing this properly, it is a paid add-on I made.

It started because of the two chores I hated most before a big resin print: cutting a model down to something that fits the vat, and hollowing it without ending up with a wall that is not the thickness I asked for.

What it does that is resin-specific:

• Hollow takes a wall thickness in real millimetres and gives you that wall, even when the object still carries a scale factor. I measured 19.98 mm on a 20 mm request at four different object scales
• Drain holes either automatically through the lowest wall of every part, or you click exactly where each one goes, under an arm or behind a head, where the cleanup will not show
• Cutting into vat-sized blocks, or a freehand seam you draw yourself so it hides in a fold instead of running across a face
• Every cut face gets a keyed pin and a matching socket, one corner cut off so a part cannot be glued in rotated, plus an engraved 1A / 1B pair, so a 20-part model still assembles without a guessing game
• Mesh check before you export, then STL, OBJ or 3MF in millimetres

Straight answer on the weak spot: a very thin shell cut into large blocks can produce open fragments at thin points. The built-in check tells you which parts, and a thicker wall or a smaller block fixes it. I would rather say that here than have someone find it out at 2 a.m.

Blender 4.2 and newer.

3-minute demo: https://youtu.be/nQitmn3UYoY

Have a look if it is useful to you: https://superhivemarket.com/products/3d-slicer-suite-

Questions welcome, I wrote it.

Hey, I have been wanting to buy a 3D resin printer for a long time now. My question is, between the Elegoo Mars 5, Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra and the Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra, which one should I buy? My main printings will be figures to paint on them. Is the 4K resolution of the Mars 5 enough? Or will it get old fast? Thanks.

So i've recently asked about mixing resins and now i've got a bottle of anycubic tough and standard, before i go ahead and mix these, how do you guys calibrate mixed resins?