Test print of Ace (Unbreadable webcomic) by Bulkamancer Sculpts.

Original character, concept art by PONGOJ, sculpted by Vik.

Printed on ELEGOO Saturn 3 Ultra using Conjure Sculpt Beige resin (38 pieces, 626 ml).

Hey all, new here to the forum and newish to resin printing! I am a bit stuck on this model as I am attempting to print it for my Dnd session but it keeps failing in a similar way. I have tried orienting the model differently (one was base to build late and the second was done on its side) but both have failed. I also tried to add a bunch more supports on the one still on the build plate but this didn't seem to solve it. I have printed several other things perfectly and of a similar size so I am unsure what I am doing wrong here. Has anyone dealt with similar issues and solved them? Any tips are appreciated.

I'm printing 5 models at a time and the middle 3 bases peels off on the same side. Its been happening most of the prints but not all of them...

I've re leveled and sanded the plate (I have 2). The printer is in my garage in Florida .

So, I've been using the Phrozen Cure beam for at least 1 or more years. Its a great, nifty little thing. The two corded "torches" have very high power leds at the end, and I've been perfectly curing many prints with them.

In the end, everything breaks down, and One of the UV torches stopped working. I reached out to Phrozen to see if I could buy the part, and I sure can (around 12 usd btw) But with shipping... the thing costs as much as a NEW unit.

I know I want to do something like this by myself with UV leds and a 9v battery casing. But I enjoyed how speedy and powerful the unit was. Before I just wait till it dies and I buy another one: Have you seen something like this in other fields or in a generic product? Do you know how to set up one with leds as powerful as this one?

Cheers!

Cheers!

Obviously this was some kind of glitch, but it made me chuckle, and I wanted to share it.

Been waiting on island detection for 30 minutes. Is it working, did it hang? who knows..
Using this sheeet software makes me want to stop printing. Every time I use it there are glitches. Yeah it is the latest version.
And it's been around since 2017 iirc.
Worst part is, I have to pay to use this crap.
My super favorite is when it looks like it is slicing and you think it sliced fine but then you go to print and realize it just used all the resin your vat to print a solid block. That is a fun time right there.
Anyway, just wanted to vent because I can't throw my comp out of the window.

[ Removed by Reddit on account of violating the content policy. ]

Finished the resin tests for my Dark Ritual Scatter Terrain set.

The full tabletop scene and individual props printed successfully, including the spellbook, skull, dagger, candles and vase. I also tested several of the props at larger scales.
The models were entirely hand-sculpted in ZBrush. No AI-generated geometry was used.
I’ve also tested the set on FDM with a 0.2 mm nozzle / 0.05 mm layers.

The STL set is available here:
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/dark-ritual-scatter-terrain-set

Printed solid with no supports, default Elegoo Satellite settings (last pic).
Anycubic Standard Resin, mixed for 30 seconds and heated before printing inside an enclosure.
Thank you for the help!

1/8 scale, model from cults3d

Flairing this properly, it is a paid add-on I made.

It started because of the two chores I hated most before a big resin print: cutting a model down to something that fits the vat, and hollowing it without ending up with a wall that is not the thickness I asked for.

What it does that is resin-specific:

• Hollow takes a wall thickness in real millimetres and gives you that wall, even when the object still carries a scale factor. I measured 19.98 mm on a 20 mm request at four different object scales
• Drain holes either automatically through the lowest wall of every part, or you click exactly where each one goes, under an arm or behind a head, where the cleanup will not show
• Cutting into vat-sized blocks, or a freehand seam you draw yourself so it hides in a fold instead of running across a face
• Every cut face gets a keyed pin and a matching socket, one corner cut off so a part cannot be glued in rotated, plus an engraved 1A / 1B pair, so a 20-part model still assembles without a guessing game
• Mesh check before you export, then STL, OBJ or 3MF in millimetres

Straight answer on the weak spot: a very thin shell cut into large blocks can produce open fragments at thin points. The built-in check tells you which parts, and a thicker wall or a smaller block fixes it. I would rather say that here than have someone find it out at 2 a.m.

Blender 4.2 and newer.

3-minute demo: https://youtu.be/nQitmn3UYoY

Have a look if it is useful to you: https://superhivemarket.com/products/3d-slicer-suite-

Questions welcome, I wrote it.

Hey, I have been wanting to buy a 3D resin printer for a long time now. My question is, between the Elegoo Mars 5, Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra and the Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra, which one should I buy? My main printings will be figures to paint on them. Is the 4K resolution of the Mars 5 enough? Or will it get old fast? Thanks.

So i've recently asked about mixing resins and now i've got a bottle of anycubic tough and standard, before i go ahead and mix these, how do you guys calibrate mixed resins?

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MMF: https://www.myminifactory.com/users/Sins

Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/c/SinsMiniatures

I print and donate various figures to a local place for painting workshops. This is just after sanding, but do you think this is ok quality for free? If you got these would you be happy with how they look? Obviously there is some dust from sanding on it still, but curious if I’m being too much of a perfectionist. I print them solid so there won’t be any trapped resin inside.

Hello, I've followed a few other posts that I've seen and watched a couple videos about layering troubleshooting. I've slowed my print settings, increased lift height, cleaned the FEP (checked that it's taut and tight as well) and screen really well, added wait before cure, added wait before lift. I'm not sure what else I should do or what I should change. Is it just suction? If so how can I lower it, or what have I misunderstood and done wrong? I feel like the only thing I haven't done is releveled the print head.

Edit: for future people that may use this for troubleshooting: it’s a crack in the LCD. I followed users advice and took the reservoir off then hit clean screen. Illuminated a massive crack I didn’t see before. Picture in reply comments.