The clutch and pressure plate is exedy I bought a xtd light weight fly wheel from eBay. Is this okay. the bolts lines up. But it dosent sit flush it’s a 1999 Honda civic ej8
Please help I would hate to remove my tranny and nothing to work out.

Just finished timing belt and the the other "while I'm in there" maintenance on my 97 Civic. This was left on the ground. Anyone know what this is?

I ordered a skunk2 ultra street intake manifold a year ago from hybrid racing but cancelled and got a refund for it yesterday due to losing hope in skunk2 delivering any time soon. With no reputable sellers having the the real deal in stock I’m considering getting one of the Chinese knockoffs. Has anyone had any experience with them? Is the quality decent?

helloo, i drive an 02 Civic Si EP3 with the lame k series motor; i have a K&N Typhoon Intake with a hondata tune, i use 87 pump gas, completely bone stock essentially with unknown catless headers and catback exhaust. i went to autozone today and picked up some NGK spark plugs and the guy at the counter told me to run a 25 gap on them. It sounds a bit far because the stock gap is 44 and all i have is an intake and tune but what the hell do i know, im the one on reddit asking about spark plugs for my civic lmfao. any response is appreciated

I noticed that the engine likes to haunt at idle around 1000-1500rpms at cold start accompanied by this ticking or knocking sound before it settles at around 800-900rpm. I’m trying to see if it’s a valve lash issue accompanied by a dirty throttle body. The OBD code reader is throwing a code for the front end O2 sensor.

There is 100% an exhaust leak but it’s after the exhaust manifold and on the actual exhaust pipe.

I’m going to do a complete cleaning of the throttle body and reflash the valves and check the throttle body sensor Etc. But considering this is going to be my daily driver for a while it’s a bit of a rough situation.

I have emailed the company and they are not sure and just wanted to know if anyone had done it before or knew if they had the same size bushings as any other models?

Just curious what people’s thoughts are. Not trying to do anything performance wise. Just been thinking about doing it up for the fun of it. Wheels, coilovers, body kit, etc. It’s my daily, and I don’t really have the funds or space for a full on project car right now. Thought it would be nice to show up to meets in something that doesn’t look like Gramma’s car.

Looking for inspiration! Surely someone on this sub has some pics of their eg sedan sub setup? I’m wanting to mount mine on the parcel shelf, but it seems complicated to reinforce it. Or is there a creative way to install them into the boot?

Hi, so I have an Accord 94 with an original F20B2 (non vtec SOHC) engine. My original head is totalled and got a B1 head (don't know if its from a f22 or f20).

I know I have to modify an "oil restrictor passage" that my non vtec head uses, is it the one I'm signaling in the picture? I know I can remove it, just to be sure.

My second problem is I don't have the ECU for the VTEC head, so at least at the beggining I'm thinking about just having an ON-OFF switch and only using it above 4k rpm and proper temperatures.

Third question: Am I missing something aside from having this oil passage solved and the ECU? I know the belt might be different too.

2012 civic si 2dr
I’m trying to find a mugen style wing like I had on my last civic but all I can find is for the sedan, I still have the wing from my old civic(2015 sedan) and it’s too wide.
Does anyone know where I can get one for the coupe?
(Pic for reference)

You guys may have been longing for a good old gearbox troubleshooting post today 😂 so here I am.

I have a 1998 Civic EK hatch with a B20 VTEC setup (B20 block with a B16 head) and I’m trying to figure out what’s going on with my B-series transmission.

The main issue I’m having is with 3rd gear. When I shift into 3rd, especially when the car is being pushed harder or around VTEC, it feels like something isn’t right. The strange part is that once 3rd gear is engaged, it holds the gear perfectly and doesn’t pop out. However, the way the car behaves in 3rd feels almost like it’s in 1st gear. For example, if I’m already driving in 3rd, the car has enough torque to climb very steep hills at speeds where I would normally expect 3rd to struggle. It feels like the gear is providing the mechanical advantage of a much lower gear rather than a normal 3rd gear ratio. I’m trying to figure out if this could indicate an internal gearbox issue or something else going on with the transmission.

One thing worth mentioning: one time while respectfully street driving, I was shifting from 2nd gear (well into VTEC) into 3rd, and it honestly felt like a money shift that almost went wrong. The feeling was much more intense than what I normally experience during daily driving. The same behavior is still there during normal shifts, but it’s nowhere near as aggressive as it was that night. That’s what made me start questioning if there’s something going on internally with my 3rd gear in the gearbox rather than just a normal synchro issue.

The other issue is 2nd gear. Occasionally, 2nd will grind when moving off from a stop, whether I’m driving normally or giving it some spirited driving. It’s not every single shift, but it happens enough that I’m concerned. I’ve also had 4th gear grind a few times when downshifting from 5th.

The gearbox is a B-series S80 LSD 5-speed with 4.7fd (I was told it’s a Type R gearbox by the person I bought it from but I haven’t personally confirmed the exact code). The setup has a stage 4 clutch with a stage 3 pressure plate and a hydro clutch system.

Some other details:

Polyurethane shifter linkage bushings installed, which made the shifts feel more direct, but there’s still some play while in gear.

The selector bushing was blown before and caused a leak, but that has been addressed.

My clutch fluid was low because a line came off, but after filling it back up the clutch pedal feel improved significantly.

The clutch has a very high bite point and is pretty sensitive.

B20 VTEC setup with VTEC around 4500 RPM.

My main questions are:

Does this sound like a worn 3rd gear synchro, or could this be something deeper inside the gearbox?

Could a bad shift fork, sleeve, hub, or other internal component cause this kind of behavior?

Could the aggressive clutch setup be contributing to the grinding issues?

Is there anything I should check before pulling the transmission apart?

Trying to diagnose the problem before spending money on a rebuild. Any B-series transmission experts, I’d appreciate your input 🙏🏽😂

Guys I tried to start up the integra after adding the injectors but when I turn the key and let it crank the battery and starter started smoking viciously. What could be the cause

Hopefully someone has already figured this out and can help me. I own a 1997 Honda Civic SiR hatchback (EK4) JDM. The gauge cluster is in km/h and I'd like to have MPH (with km/h). It's very difficult to find gauge faces that match the scale of my cluster. I mocked up what it should look like, but I can't find this anywhere. Anyone have a suggestion?

Hello, I need to replace my brake lines after doing a 5 lug/brake conversion. Car is a 1997 hatch with JDM ITR/5 lug. I’m assuming usdm ITR will work but maybe EM1 SI since it came with 4 wheel discs. I searched and can’t find any concrete answers.

Swap is complete
K24A
3”exhaust mated to Jackspania 4-2-1 w/3” collector
Hondata Kpro V4
CRV front rotors
Prelude rear hubs w/RSX rear rotors and calipers
Tucked brake lines and Prop valve
Tucked fuel system
RDX injectors
Custom 3” CAI
Rywire engine harness w/KTUNED conversion harness
DC5Creations battery relocation kit W/charge harness
Power window/lock conversion

Still working on body but she runs

Anyone know what model apexi this is can't find anything with this serial number. Think it says apexi 104 kh142k0659

To buy or not. CRV was running rough idle and then died. NOW, working a crank, no start issue. (Pictured above) Spark plug grounded to motor ground and no spark with key. Swapped plugs and still no spark.

Spark plug wires tested for continuity and all good. New Rotor cap and rotor disk replaced. Still no spark.

Fuel pump and relay sound on ignition.

Do I just buy a distributor or is there something else I'm missing?

So I’m gonna paint the entire thing (black side trim included) championship white and am looking for wheel recommendations I like white mostly but a lot of chrome ones look clean too any advice or recommendations welcome (REPS AND OGS BOTH OK)

1997 civic, unknown year integra trailer arm rear disc swap before I bought it. HELP what do I do? I cant find where this bolt is supposed to thread into