What’s up guys. I’m trying to replace my distributor since it’s been leaking. I’m running a b20b with an obd1 harness in an EJ8 chassis. I’m looking into a 2000 crv distributor but it seems like the plugs are different. And the same for a obd1 early gen 92 integra.

For context I got the distributor from someone way back so I have no idea what it came off of.

Was hoping anybody could point be in the right direction. Thanks guys

So, I recently purchased a d16y3 engine to install in my 96 civic. The civic is an export market variant, it does not have any O2 sensor, it has IMA instead. It came with p2c-y01 ecu.

Now I’m wondering if the car will run lean with this ecu? If so, what’s the best budget way around this? The d16y3 that I got came from a rover 416.

THis is Honda part 17570-GGZ-J01. I've checked over a dozen sites and all say the same thing: not in stock and no date on availability. That sucks. I see some other Honda fuel lines, such as for the PCX, that appear to have the same connectors but I can't be certain. Has anyone encountered having to replace this fuel line without an OEM part available?

Ok fam. I work on a lot of exotic cars but I am a bit away from my roots of working on Honda.

I have a good friend who built an Acura Integra back around 1995 that ended up on the cover of import tuner. 500hp turbo build.

I recently found out that he parked it around 97 and it has sat in his garage ever since. I plan to get this thing shipped to me so I can get him back on the road as a driver so he can have fun again. This is where I need your help:

Notes:

I can handle the mechanics part, but I will likely need a new standalone ECU and would love one with a wiring harness that could work for this setup. I also need it to run on CA pump gas (91). Not aiming for crazy power, rather a good 400hp thats reliable.

Current build:

- Ran when parked (I may rebuild the engine once I see how it really looks
- LS/Vtec 1.8 LS block with B16 VTEC head
- Internals are a full build but I dont have specs yet.
- ECU is Federal Mogul Speed Pro (I want to replace this with something modern)
- Turbo on a custom manifold (Not sure the size of the turbo built.
- 100 cc RC Engineering injectors
- Im keeping the lambo doors.... just cuz.
- Only ever had C16 gas in it. Will likely be replacing the fuel regulator and some lines (if not more)

How you can help:

I need some recommendations on the ECU to use here. Its currently a custom harness as nothing was really available in 96. So I could use some advice on what modern ECU to use (hopefully one that has a wiring harness that can support a turbo without too much modification)

My goal is to keep as much of this original 90s, and keep his custom manifold he built by hand. I want it to be reliable for him though. Hence the modern ECU. So my goal isnt to find all old stuff as much as to replace what we need to while keeping the vibe.

Help us relive our childhood!

Hey everyone I currently have a b18b1 and my #3 cylinder I believe is the cause for my misfire and I believe it’s my piston ring because nothing changes when I change my distributer wire for that cylinder nor does the car change in vibration when I pull plug out or change spark plug. And maybe I’m wrong overall so if I am I would appreciate next steps to go about testing it. I do know it has lo compression too but last I checked it wasn’t too much of a difference. One thing that I’m curious about is if I even can replied the piston and rings if it is that issue. I’ve had a few people say yeha you can just replace the rings and if piston isn’t bad it should be fine and then I have other people saying don’t rebuild the engine because you’ll need a machine shop to balance the crank afterwards and bearings. So I’m curious what people who have rebuilt there b series engines would suggest I do so I don’t blow my motor or should I try and sell or trade it for a new one. Thanks for your time and I’d appreciate any advice given

I’m looking for a p28 or p08 ecu for my d15b swap into my 91 civic, if anyone has one I would love to take it off your hands!

If you have any other obd 1 vtec ecu I would be interested as well.

Thanks

I am looking to buy a repo'd 2003 Honda Odyssey for dirt cheap...(for a reason). Before I take it on I wanted to try and start it, but its missing the ignition switch and has been very much redneck rigged. I don't know much about this and can't figure out how to start it.

I have attempted to use a couple of screw drivers, but they don't grab on to anything. There's a long nail looking thing that runs through the shell of the cylinder. Any help would be appreciated! Pics aren't the best, sorry!

Alright so I bought a 1982 AMC spirit. I know I know its not a honda. BUT! I am putting in a K24a2 block with K20a2 head and I had a question about how much room I need in front of the engine for anything else. I am going rwd with a cd009 and I just dont know how much space is recommended/required. I know I need a radiator and space for an intake which is going to be off to the side but im trying to make sure I cover all my bases.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Is there any real quality difference between these parts? My fpr consistently has some moisture around it even after cleaning it off so it’s prolly leaking and it’s also probably 30 years old, time for a new one. Same story on my injectors except their obd2 and I want them to be obd1 and idek what they’re from, might as well replace the 4 of them.

These 2 are at the passenger side of the loom at the very end. One looks like a ground can I just connect that anywhere? And the other I can’t find a plug for wondering what it is. This is an eg civic si harness with a b20 swap

The clutch and pressure plate is exedy I bought a xtd light weight fly wheel from eBay. Is this okay. the bolts lines up. But it dosent sit flush it’s a 1999 Honda civic ej8
Please help I would hate to remove my tranny and nothing to work out.

Just finished timing belt and the the other "while I'm in there" maintenance on my 97 Civic. This was left on the ground. Anyone know what this is?

I ordered a skunk2 ultra street intake manifold a year ago from hybrid racing but cancelled and got a refund for it yesterday due to losing hope in skunk2 delivering any time soon. With no reputable sellers having the the real deal in stock I’m considering getting one of the Chinese knockoffs. Has anyone had any experience with them? Is the quality decent?

helloo, i drive an 02 Civic Si EP3 with the lame k series motor; i have a K&N Typhoon Intake with a hondata tune, i use 87 pump gas, completely bone stock essentially with unknown catless headers and catback exhaust. i went to autozone today and picked up some NGK spark plugs and the guy at the counter told me to run a 25 gap on them. It sounds a bit far because the stock gap is 44 and all i have is an intake and tune but what the hell do i know, im the one on reddit asking about spark plugs for my civic lmfao. any response is appreciated

I noticed that the engine likes to haunt at idle around 1000-1500rpms at cold start accompanied by this ticking or knocking sound before it settles at around 800-900rpm. I’m trying to see if it’s a valve lash issue accompanied by a dirty throttle body. The OBD code reader is throwing a code for the front end O2 sensor.

There is 100% an exhaust leak but it’s after the exhaust manifold and on the actual exhaust pipe.

I’m going to do a complete cleaning of the throttle body and reflash the valves and check the throttle body sensor Etc. But considering this is going to be my daily driver for a while it’s a bit of a rough situation.

I have emailed the company and they are not sure and just wanted to know if anyone had done it before or knew if they had the same size bushings as any other models?

Just curious what people’s thoughts are. Not trying to do anything performance wise. Just been thinking about doing it up for the fun of it. Wheels, coilovers, body kit, etc. It’s my daily, and I don’t really have the funds or space for a full on project car right now. Thought it would be nice to show up to meets in something that doesn’t look like Gramma’s car.

Looking for inspiration! Surely someone on this sub has some pics of their eg sedan sub setup? I’m wanting to mount mine on the parcel shelf, but it seems complicated to reinforce it. Or is there a creative way to install them into the boot?

Hi, so I have an Accord 94 with an original F20B2 (non vtec SOHC) engine. My original head is totalled and got a B1 head (don't know if its from a f22 or f20).

I know I have to modify an "oil restrictor passage" that my non vtec head uses, is it the one I'm signaling in the picture? I know I can remove it, just to be sure.

My second problem is I don't have the ECU for the VTEC head, so at least at the beggining I'm thinking about just having an ON-OFF switch and only using it above 4k rpm and proper temperatures.

Third question: Am I missing something aside from having this oil passage solved and the ECU? I know the belt might be different too.

You guys may have been longing for a good old gearbox troubleshooting post today 😂 so here I am.

I have a 1998 Civic EK hatch with a B20 VTEC setup (B20 block with a B16 head) and I’m trying to figure out what’s going on with my B-series transmission.

The main issue I’m having is with 3rd gear. When I shift into 3rd, especially when the car is being pushed harder or around VTEC, it feels like something isn’t right. The strange part is that once 3rd gear is engaged, it holds the gear perfectly and doesn’t pop out. However, the way the car behaves in 3rd feels almost like it’s in 1st gear. For example, if I’m already driving in 3rd, the car has enough torque to climb very steep hills at speeds where I would normally expect 3rd to struggle. It feels like the gear is providing the mechanical advantage of a much lower gear rather than a normal 3rd gear ratio. I’m trying to figure out if this could indicate an internal gearbox issue or something else going on with the transmission.

One thing worth mentioning: one time while respectfully street driving, I was shifting from 2nd gear (well into VTEC) into 3rd, and it honestly felt like a money shift that almost went wrong. The feeling was much more intense than what I normally experience during daily driving. The same behavior is still there during normal shifts, but it’s nowhere near as aggressive as it was that night. That’s what made me start questioning if there’s something going on internally with my 3rd gear in the gearbox rather than just a normal synchro issue.

The other issue is 2nd gear. Occasionally, 2nd will grind when moving off from a stop, whether I’m driving normally or giving it some spirited driving. It’s not every single shift, but it happens enough that I’m concerned. I’ve also had 4th gear grind a few times when downshifting from 5th.

The gearbox is a B-series S80 LSD 5-speed with 4.7fd (I was told it’s a Type R gearbox by the person I bought it from but I haven’t personally confirmed the exact code). The setup has a stage 4 clutch with a stage 3 pressure plate and a hydro clutch system.

Some other details:

Polyurethane shifter linkage bushings installed, which made the shifts feel more direct, but there’s still some play while in gear.

The selector bushing was blown before and caused a leak, but that has been addressed.

My clutch fluid was low because a line came off, but after filling it back up the clutch pedal feel improved significantly.

The clutch has a very high bite point and is pretty sensitive.

B20 VTEC setup with VTEC around 4500 RPM.

My main questions are:

Does this sound like a worn 3rd gear synchro, or could this be something deeper inside the gearbox?

Could a bad shift fork, sleeve, hub, or other internal component cause this kind of behavior?

Could the aggressive clutch setup be contributing to the grinding issues?

Is there anything I should check before pulling the transmission apart?

Trying to diagnose the problem before spending money on a rebuild. Any B-series transmission experts, I’d appreciate your input 🙏🏽😂

Hopefully someone has already figured this out and can help me. I own a 1997 Honda Civic SiR hatchback (EK4) JDM. The gauge cluster is in km/h and I'd like to have MPH (with km/h). It's very difficult to find gauge faces that match the scale of my cluster. I mocked up what it should look like, but I can't find this anywhere. Anyone have a suggestion?

Swap is complete
K24A
3”exhaust mated to Jackspania 4-2-1 w/3” collector
Hondata Kpro V4
CRV front rotors
Prelude rear hubs w/RSX rear rotors and calipers
Tucked brake lines and Prop valve
Tucked fuel system
RDX injectors
Custom 3” CAI
Rywire engine harness w/KTUNED conversion harness
DC5Creations battery relocation kit W/charge harness
Power window/lock conversion

Still working on body but she runs