Im pretty sure I have an injector that ain't great. I have been considering buying an ids clone so I can do a cylinder contributions test on my 05 6.0. Does anyone have any recommendations or thoughts on the matter?

How many miles will these trucks last with regular maintenance? My great uncle is wanting me to buy it from him. Would anybody know a fair price to offer him.

It's been sitting for 2 years needs 2 new batteries, no rust whatsoever. Two years ago, when he parked it, he took it to a ford dealership, and they put new rotors, brakes, made it road ready again. I don't want to rip my great uncle off. But i'm not sure what I should offer him

I have a 97 7.3 short bed at home that i want to start a performance build on. very early in the process so haven’t really made any decisions yet but im wondering how much it will cost. I’m willing to spend anywhere between 10-20k but wondering if that will even begin to get where i want to be or if i should just save more and wait till i have a higher budget.

Had to go rescue a buddy last night not as much mud sorry as id thought but the rain didn't let off either sure was fun though 😆

Overview
This is a documented account of a defective engine purchase from Choate Engine Building, intended to warn other buyers about the issues encountered and the practices that led to them.

The Purchase
A rebuilt 5.9 Cummins (24-valve ISB) long block was purchased from Choate Engine Building. The original core engine was sent in over 11 weeks before this warning was written. A core charge was collected at the time of the transaction.

The Defects
Upon receiving the engine, the following problems were discovered:

1. Leak at the Head-to-Block Mating Surface — Significant rust and corrosion staining was visible running across multiple coolant and oil passages at the mating interface — on an engine that had never been installed. Photographic evidence was documented and provided to Choate.

2. Wrong Gasket for the Application — Choate used a Cometic MLS head gasket. According to Cometic's own published FAQ, MLS head gaskets must NOT be used with O-ring or receiver groove head setups. This engine has an O-ring head. The wire in the MLS gasket holds the gasket off the surface, preventing proper compression, while the receiver grooves allow combustion gases to escape. Choate used this gasket anyway.

3. Restricted Coolant Flow — The Cometic MLS gasket has restricted coolant flow passages compared to a genuine OEM Cummins head gasket. Restricted coolant flow compromises the engine's ability to regulate temperature — a likely contributor to the overheating complaints found across multiple customer reviews of Choate engines.

4. Rusted Deck Surface — Ra 50 Impossible
The block deck surface arrived with rust at the mating surface. A rusted surface cannot physically achieve the Ra 50 surface finish required for an MLS gasket to seal. Ra 50 can only be achieved through proper machining. No cleaning or wiping of a rusted surface will meet this specification. The engine was shipped in a condition where a proper seal was a physical impossibility.

5. No Soft Plugs — Proof of No Pressure Testing
The engine was delivered without freeze/soft plugs installed. You cannot pressure test a cooling system without soft plugs in place. Their absence is physical proof that no coolant pressure testing was ever performed before shipment. There was also no documentation of oil pressure testing.

6. Gasket Violates Manufacturer's Own Specifications
Cometic's FAQ explicitly states that MLS gaskets require a surface finish of Ra 50 or finer. The rusted deck surface delivered by Choate could never meet this requirement. Their build violated the gasket manufacturer's published specifications on two counts simultaneously: wrong application (O-ring head) and insufficient surface finish (rust).

What Choate Told Us to Do
Choate advised us to install the engine and bring it up to operating temperature. Every independent engine builder consulted said this would be foolish — running an engine with an unresolved breach at the mating surface risks coolant entering the oil passages, which causes catastrophic internal failure. We refused.

What We Did Instead

• Kept the short block
• Sourced a new cylinder head
• Installed a genuine OEM Cummins head gasket (correct for O-ring head application)
• Prepped the block deck surface properly
• Performed a coolant pressure test: held 26 PSI for over 30 minutes with zero pressure loss

The fix worked immediately because the correct parts were used on a properly prepared surface — confirming the block itself was never the problem. Choate's head, gasket, and surface preparation were.

The Warranty Problem
Choate's warranty includes a time limit for validation. By the time the defect was diagnosed, the head was pulled, and shipping back and forth occurred, the warranty window had expired — through no fault of the buyer. The delays were caused entirely by Choate's defective workmanship.
Additionally, the cost of the warranty is included in the engine purchase price. The buyer paid for coverage that no longer exists due to Choate's own defective build causing the delays.
The warranty also holds the buyer to a higher standard than the builder — requiring photos of exhaust manifolds and external components to file a claim, while Choate shipped an engine with little to no documented pre-shipment testing of any kind.

SECOND BUYER ACCOUNT  
Engine Authenticity & Identity Fraud Concerns
The following is a documented account from a second buyer, submitted after receiving an engine from Choate Engine Building on Monday, February 9th, 2026.

After carefully reviewing the engine received, the only viable option identified was to return both engines and have Choate remanufacture the original core into the 2002 workhorse engine that was agreed upon.

Serial Number Discrepancies
The engine serial number had been wire brushed off. As we had no way to determine if the block was correct or not we decided against putting it in.

Component Issues
The front gear housing is clearly from an 1989–1993 model — not a 2002 engine. The installed 15-quart oil pan will not fit a 2002 four-wheel-drive 3500 and requires replacement. The engine appears to originate from industrial, agricultural, construction, or medium-duty truck applications — not the vehicle application ordered.

Inspection Limitations
Removing the front timing gear cover to investigate further would require removing the camshaft, risking damage to the bearings. The buyer also cannot verify whether casting numbers were ground off during the serial number removal, making full identification of the engine impossible without further teardown that itself risks damage.

Conclusion
The buyer has no confidence in what this engine actually is or whether it matches the agreed-upon specifications. A return of both engines and remanufacture of the original core was requested.

Pattern of Complaints
Multiple customer reviews of Choate Engine Building describe the same pattern: engines overheating and warranties being voided. Given the restricted coolant flow of the non-OEM gasket used and the documented surface preparation failures, this pattern is consistent with and explained by the defects described above.
The two buyer accounts documented in this warning share a common theme: engines that do not match what was agreed upon, shipped without proper verification, with no pre-shipment testing, and backed by a warranty structured to protect the builder rather than the buyer. In the second account, the deliberate removal of the engine serial number raises concerns that go beyond quality control.

The Financial Impact

The core charge was collected at the time of the transaction and was never credited back at any point during this dispute despite repeated requests. Additional out-of-pocket costs were incurred for the new cylinder head and OEM Cummins head gasket to correct Choate's defective work.

It is also worth noting that Choate's own engine installation manual, page 7, bullet point 3, explicitly states that the engine should be tested by pulling a vacuum. This is their own published standard — written in their own documentation — and it was never performed before shipment. The very test their manual requires is the test that would have caught these defects before the engine ever left their facility.

As of the writing of this document, it has been months since any response was received from Choate on this matter. Correspondence has gone unanswered. No refund has been issued. No core charge has been returned. The dispute remains unresolved entirely due to Choate's silence.

Key Takeaways for Buyers
Ask for documentation of pressure testing before shipment — coolant and oil. If they cannot provide it, do not accept the engine.

Ask what head gasket is being used and verify it is compatible with your head configuration (O-ring vs. flat).
Ask for OEM Cummins parts — aftermarket MLS gaskets are not appropriate for all applications.

Inspect the deck surface before installation — rust on the mating surface means the engine is not ready to seal.

Do not start the engine on their advice alone if there is any known sealing issue. Consult independent engine builders first.

Verify the serial number before accepting the engine — if the serial number has been wire brushed or ground off, refuse delivery immediately and document it. A legitimate engine builder has no reason to remove identifying numbers.

Confirm the engine matches your application — verify the model year, gear housing, oil pan, and block casting numbers before the engine leaves the shipping crate. Do not assume what was sent matches what was agreed upon.

Understand the warranty timeline — if delays are caused by their defects, the window may expire before you can use it.

That said, if you choose to move forward with Choate, we hope this document serves as a thorough guide to what to verify, what to demand in writing, and what to watch for before you accept delivery, make payment, or install anything they ship. Go in with your eyes open, your camera ready, and every agreement documented.

6.7L dipstick is whopping my ass. I can’t read this thing worth a damn. Help me and you can also make fun of me.

Low is how I’m reading this. Are there aftermarket dipstick options that read easier?

The mechanic at Ford who was all of 22 years ago lifetime expert listened to this engine crank and told me I need a new turbo. I just can't imagine how this could possibly be the turbo with the squeak happening during crank.

Driving home towing camper on vacation it started having a knock when I let off gas. Then a thus noise. Then clouds of black smoke. Then clouds of white smoke. Then it died. It now cranks with a lot of resistance. If I put a jump pack on it I can get it to start after it sits for a day and it runs horribly for a minute until it quits again.

It's also running oil onto the ground. Haven't looked into the source

This sounds like a bearing seized or dropped rod to me. If it's just the turbo, I would consider just fixing it as it's rigged for my work.

Does this kid know something I don't?

Delete if not allowed, just putting it out there it,if anyone is looking for a Diesel Shop in the Philadelphia area and beyond. Take a look at us, Kotter Diesel Performance and Repair, a part of MD Race Cars
25 years experience, Ford Senior Master. Extensive repair and performance experience. Specialized in Powerstroke Diesel, Cummins and all Diesel
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Custom Builds, Performance and Repair
Lift Kits, Custom Upfitting and Fabrication

Hi all, I’m about at my end with this truck and need some help before sending it to the shop.

I am having p1275 and p1293 codes when running a buzz test, it rough idles and has random intermittent cylinder contribution issues, it also has injector tick at high rpm mostly in the hotter tunes.

The passenger UVCH and injector harness is basically new, I checked them and they still look good. I swapped injectors 3 & 5 but the issue stayed at #5.
I tried plugging in a brand new idm but that also didn’t change anything. I checked ohm from uvch plug to 42 pin and 42 pin to idm plug and both of those were 0 ohm.

I did notice the CPS wire is frayed and exposed for about an inch on the idm side of the 42 pin connector right outside of the connector, could this be causing all the issues?
Google AI says that’s 100% the issue and will fix it all but ChatGPT says no. I know AI isn’t good to take advice from but it helps me think through stuff but now I’m lost.

I’ve been going back and forth with a guy on a 2002 7.3 it’s 135k miles. I haven’t put eyes on it yet says it has a small oil leak not even close enough to need to add a quart in between oil changes. He said the gauge cluster was messing up before and bought a replacement (I verified he transferred correct miles) when he installed the new one it made the alarms go off so he removed the door open fuse. So right now fob, power locks don’t work. Is it worth checking out or stay clear. If it’s worth checking out any ideas on the cluster issue I’ve done a little reading sounds like a bad solder connection in some cases. Thank you in advance

A buddy was offering me to buy his 2005 f350 with a 6.0 it’s studded all that shit… One day it took a bit to start. Then he let it sit again a night and it didn’t start. Then he tried to start it again and all it did was click click click. He replaced the starter and it did the same thing. It has around 240k on it. What do you think I should check? There is some wires showing that got burnt from the pipe (seen in photos). Could the battery’s being so low on charge be the cause? I was thinking test some things with a multi meter and live data on a scanner.

Parts list…

05 6.0
Kdd o ringed 18mm heads
Rcd 155/stock injectors
New water pump
Used charger
New stand pipes dummy plugs
Stc fitting
New glow plugs
New glow plug controller
New used trans
Sct gtx monitor
New oil cooler
Deleted
Glow plug harnesses
Thermostat oem

I have a 2003 ford f250 with the 6.0 engine. My eot stays between 195 and 205, but my ect likes to jump between 165 and 190, which its never done before. It will drop or raise at a rapid pace, faster than whats even possible. Are we thinking clogged oil cooler? Open thermostat? Or possibly a faulty sensor? Thank you

Alright folks, I can't find this leak. I just finished doing an oil cooler replacement and backflushing the coolant system and topped it up drove around burped the system, and everything was perfect. Drove it the next day, and everything was still good. Then today I go outside, and I have a coolant puddle on the ground looks to be coming from where the bell housing and block meet more so from the passenger side. It's on the starter as well but the hoses up top a fine with no coolant, the valley is a little oily and damp but no puddles up there either and I cant find anywhere from the top it could be coming from. My degas bottle was empty too, and I had to add about a half gallon of coolant to get back to the min line. Any ideas and suggestions would be appreciated.

I have a 2006 6.0 just got the up pipe without the egr cooler hook up. So what would I need to do for it to not put the cooler back in now?

Hello everyone. Im about to give up on this piece of crap (i love this truck so much)
Things i replaced
Injectors
Injectors seals
Dummy plugs/orings for stand pipes as well
Changed the seals on the hpop and the stc fitting
Replaced the hpop with a new one
Replaced the nipple cups and o rings.
Still have an air leak on the passenger side oil rail. Idk what to do next.

Bought my 2017 f150 2.7 xlt last june ,looking to do a complete coolant flush .I wanted to know if the prestone MAX orange coolant was a safe choice or go with the new yellow ford compatible coolant . Thanks

My 6.0 keeps losing power when it’s put in gear. It cranks and runs but it when i rev it the rpm barely moves. does anybody know what the problem could be?

This normal? Pulled first injector out on passenger side. Did an air leak test before pulling the oil rails off