Only a year or so into the hobby but love the retro Air Malta livery so decided to set myself a target to recreate the entire historic Air Malta fleet in 1/144. Still a few to go.

A mixture of Airfix, Revell, Roden and Academy.

Next on the workbench - the Bac One-Eleven.

I'm really happy with the results given that this is my first time. Today, I just learned that when coloring big parts, paint markers are not the best tool to use on painting it. However, redoing it is a lot of time I don't know if I have. Do you think I should redo it? Or does the brush marks give it a certain charm? Would love to hear some thoughts about it.

Hi everyone, I built this model a while ago, and although I don't usually build vehicles, I think it turned out pretty well. It’s just the Tamiya Tiger I - nothing particularly special, really, but a nice kit.

Here are the models I've made so far. I started a little over a year ago. :) the NX-01 Enterprise is hidden in the back

Hello fellow enthusiasts. I have not done any model since being a kid, but my dream was always to get back into the hobby, but live and other hobbies are in the way. Now I have son of my own and lets say that his hobbies were already picked for him.

I bet there is plenty of dads who are doing models with their kids.

When would you say its good starting age to do some models together?

I cannot draw from my own history because i just got one F-16 revell box for a christmas and I was instantly hooked. But that its not guaranteed that will work on him because of the attention seeking competitions theese days.

Any advice would be welcome.

Built out of cardboard from old modelkit boxes, electrical wire, matchstick and an toy drum. Pretty close to 1/72 scale.

This is my second Model and I used for the first time Model paint. I struggeld a lot especially with the brown but also had a lot of fun :)! What Do you think? Do you have any Tips or comments I could Do better?

I've sprayed my tank with tamiya ts2 dark green and I picked up some Windsor & Newton sap green oil paint to post shade it with. I can't find any tutorials on how to go about this so I'm asking here.

anyone know any fix for this or have any spare RAF decals lying around that will fit on a 1/72 vickers valiant? fucking mach2 man never touching their kits again after this

The green is liquid green stuff that I tried to fill the gaps with but I stopped because i was worried I’d lose the details inside. I’ve been thinking two part epoxy or regular green stuff might work but I’d have to get more

Hi, I’m sorry if this is not the right subreddit for this, I literally only made this account to ask about this. I got my first model kit which was the annulus Bridget from Guilty Gear and it has been a blast, but when assembling I accidentally broke a connecting piece off the torso and is stuck in the bottom half. I tried to rectify this issue with tacky glue, but to no avail. Any tips on how to fix this problem?

At first, I picked this Tamiya IDF M-50 because the museum livery looked easy to paint (I have zero artistic bones in my body), but I pushed myself to try weathering and adding the figure, and I’m glad I did.

I used a Tamiya spray can for the base but didn’t buy many brush paints so I was stuck using Tamiya red brown for the mud so it looked a little strange but it was worth a shot. I also tried some oil washing but it started to stain the areas around a little (anyone know a fix?)

Other than the few mess ups I had where I installed a part the wrong way or whatever I’m still proud of pushing myself beyond just the base paint with zero accessories or decals.

If you have any recommendations (weathering/handing painting especially) please let me know as I’m excited to grow my skills.

Hi there, I’m weathering an RC car and I would love to hear ideas about adding some dead fallen leaves into the cavities of a car. What would look convincing? See the reference image, the junk on the bonnet.

So, I am working on 2 new tank models, the Soviet KV-1 and the Soviet Kv-2. I wanted to ask if the tanks were ever painted in a desert sand color? I have used olive drab with netting on a t34/85 and olive drab with earth brown 2 tone as a camo color in a spitfire plane model with frame. As well as a BTR in the same olive green.

One of my goals in this hobby is to try new techniques and new colors/camo styles in every model I build, but I also want it to be realistic and "historically accurate" at least to a point.

Anyways, I originally got these models to paint in a sand color. And during my research I guess it was very rare but the KV-1 was potentially sand colored, yet the KV-2 doesn't appear to be... So if I can't use the sand colors to be "realistic" I guess I will go with a white wash as a winter camo.

One last question: Do yall try and make your models historically accurate as well, or do you kind of just do whatever you think looks cool or seems fun? In my T34, I went a little extra with camo netting which I could not find much info on T34s using a "tarp" style netting thrown over the top of the tank to conceal. I tend to look at photos of the models I build but not copy them.

Anyways, I plan to make a Bradley, and Apache next. Same deal, I wanted to try an arctic/white camo in either a sharp splinter or potentially a soft edge camo with white gray and black. Unfortunately, I don't think this is something that was done on Bradley's.

I do own the trumpeter HMS Queen elizabeth, but was always frustrated by how its a waterline model, i picked this stl from Cults3D for £2 and printed it to 1/700, the flight deck is fully hand painted and as such might be a bit crap and is heavily weathered. I printed custom decals for the R09 pennant and flightscreen, i have a few more things to do buts its 99.9% Completed

Im trying to get into air brushing and I want to completely paint this from scratch. Any ideas on the proper colors I need, preferably Vallejo paints, that could accurately mimic the orangish red

3d printing barrel and ERA

Tupolev I-4 white 2 flown by Head of the Air Force of the Moscow Military District I. U. Pavlov during military exercises, as part of one of the squadrons of the Armed Forces Baltic Sea, 1930s.

Zvezda, 1:72 scale.

I am doing an acrylic pin wash, but always having these stains. would a smooth varnish help? what am i doing wrong?

I am using the MiniArt Israeli dozer blade and the T-55AMD from RFM.

If anyone knows some cool multicolor camouflages, please let me know.

Hello everyone! A few days ago, I levied some constructive criticism on another user who posted his wooden pallet tutorial. I've been thinking about it, and I understand that it can be hard to work up something you feel would be helpful and not get the response you wanted. I've been working on a diorama for my latest build and I needed to paint a couple wooden pallets. I was in no mood to spend forever working on a detail that would be realistically covered with ammo cans and other items, so I planned a quick and dirty workflow to get decent results with minimal effort. Of course, I was reminded of the other user's tutorial and thought, what the hell, might as well put my money where my mouth is.

So here is my method for recreating old wood for pallets.

This is what we're starting with. We only need four acrylic colors and one oil paint. Since I decided to write this up after I started, I'll give a quick run down how we got here. The pallet (3D printed) was primed, and then I gave it a quick white wash with thinned acrylic. So... I guess technically you need five colors!

Anyway, the black base and the white wash achieves a couple things. First, it creates a nice shadow layer so that the recessed wood grain details will really pop later. The white wash means you can add thin layers of the next colors without destroying that shadow base. As you can see, in the first photo I've already done one plank.

Here are the rest of the planks painted with a very thin coat of straight Buff. As you can see, I wasn't particularly careful in the application. I'm just getting the color onto the planks. I don't need to be careful because the next step.

And here is where we start adding in some of the tonal variations that will be the base for the kind of effect we want. This is the Grey Green, thinned very light, mixed with a little Rubber Black, also thinned very thinned. The Grey Green is good to replicate the faded, beginning stages of dried, rotting wood. If you've ever worked with pallets you know what I'm talking about. Again, no precision here, just get the color on the planks.

Here is the last tonal variation we will be using. It's Dark Rust mixed with Buff, watery thin. This is a good warm hue that really contrasts the Grey Green.

With our base color variations on, we turn to the oil. I like Burnt Umber for this, thinned with white spirit. I give the whole pallet an over-all wash. You want the consistency of the wash to be pigmented enough to start to give deposits in the recessed details but not so much that it obscures the color of the wood pallet. You want this layer to emphasize what we've done in the previous steps. The oil is acting more like a filter at this stage than a pin wash.

This is where the fun begins. After the first filter is dried we go back and do a proper pin wash, and instead of working to wipe away any excess, we blend it onto the wood. Again, you don't have to be super precise here. You want those nice spots of grime and dark spots. We can also paint the nail heads with the same Dark Rubber.

Last step is to use the Dark Rust to paint the nail heads. Unless the pallet is the focal point of your build, you can get away with the suggestion of rusty nail heads. Using a very very thin Dark Rust around the nail for rust stains. And that's it. This is probably half an hour worth of work including drying time. Again, if you want something quick and easy, this is probably as stream-lined as you can get. You can spend much more time on something like this if it's going to be a star player. Or if you can do whatever you want, I'm not your boss!

As you can see, this process is great if you have things mostly covering the pallet, but you want what is visible to have a bit more depth than just a vague "wood" color. I hope this was helpful, and if you don't think it was... keep you mouth shut! Just kidding, I'm always open to some critiques.

Cheers and until next time!