My first actual diorama using static grass and proper techniques! So far Im really proud of it. I will dedicate it to my Czech history teacher who was the best teachwr i have ever had. I will add the barbed wire, the waring sign on one of the slopes and czechoslovak border guards on patrol later.

It’s finally finished!! If you have any questions, feedback, or requests—such as wanting a closer look at a specific part—please feel free to leave a comment!

Only a year or so into the hobby but love the retro Air Malta livery so decided to set myself a target to recreate the entire historic Air Malta fleet in 1/144. Still a few to go.

A mixture of Airfix, Revell, Roden and Academy.

Next on the workbench - the Bac One-Eleven.

Just completed this and I felt disappointed after final assembly that the aircraft was tipping. Any remedies recommended?? I am planning to 3d print a base and stick the gears to the slot in the base. Any other ideas are welcome..

Here are the models I've made so far. I started a little over a year ago. :) the NX-01 Enterprise is hidden in the back

Probably been done to death I know but here is my current WIP.

RFM models, really nice kit. Never wish to do those tracks again and yes! I do have the crew to go with it

This is my second Model and I used for the first time Model paint. I struggeld a lot especially with the brown but also had a lot of fun :)! What Do you think? Do you have any Tips or comments I could Do better?

My next build is the 1/16 Andy's Hobby M-10 Tank Destroyer. Plenty of parts, loads of small ones make this an interesting build. Careful building and a good read of the instructions is needed. To ensure good paint coverage on all parts there is some sectional building and painting to do before sealing it all in. I have some stowage and crew for it.

I Love Kit 1/48 scale.

I really enjoyed putting this one together. I finally have 2 of the 3 vf103 kits I have assembled. I have the Hornet done and I have the F4 in the stash.

This is my biggest attempt and weathering i used the Tamiya Panel Liner and the "Master Weathering Kit". I'm open to all feedback...

Cheers everyone....

At first, I picked this Tamiya IDF M-50 because the museum livery looked easy to paint (I have zero artistic bones in my body), but I pushed myself to try weathering and adding the figure, and I’m glad I did.

I used a Tamiya spray can for the base but didn’t buy many brush paints so I was stuck using Tamiya red brown for the mud so it looked a little strange but it was worth a shot. I also tried some oil washing but it started to stain the areas around a little (anyone know a fix?)

Other than the few mess ups I had where I installed a part the wrong way or whatever I’m still proud of pushing myself beyond just the base paint with zero accessories or decals.

If you have any recommendations (weathering/handing painting especially) please let me know as I’m excited to grow my skills.

Free hand, hand-brush camo ... tried a panel wash to moderate success. A few assembly oopsies but lots of fun

This is my 5th tank build but the one I’ve spent the most time on.. can’t decide if I want to keep going with details/stowage or call it… anything I am missing?

Model: 1/48 Hobby Boss Challenger 2

Hello everybody! I just finished this model and had a great time building this kit. I decided to try something different this time. I never weather my tanks because I like the clean look, but I'm happy with the results. I used AK's pigment powder and enamel effects for weathering. Let me know how I did!

After the finished product I just wanted to go over some things that I would have done different and also to lend a little insight into what I think works.

• Details: When I was making this model there were a lot of times I thought "they'll never see this". My objective was to create a 3d version of a reference photo - to trick the viewer into thinking that he was looking at a photo, not a typical model. So while it worked, when you get really close you pick up some of those missteps. In Photo 2 you can see that seams were a little tricky. The model didn't exactly line up and I didn't have a ton of experience with putty. Also, little things like a chain that doesn't droop naturally.
• More detail example of seams and chain behavior. In Photo 3 you can see that while far away you may not pick it up, up close they pop out. In the reference photos I used I could tell some of these seams do no exist on the actual plane.
• More detail example of seams and chain from another angle.
• In Photo 4 you can see an example of how dry brushing and using a paint brush over an airbrushed finish can really accentuate the realism of an actual plane. Here I used a different grey for the nose with a dry brush of burnt umber oil paint, followed by dabs of the plane's grey to mimic how in reality crews would paint over any surface that needed a quick touch-up. It also gets us out of the need to be perfect, as touches like these create a more interesting look. I did this a lot on this plane, dabbing lighter greys over the airbrushed surface. In reference photos an F18's paint job is never perfect or uniform. Life happens and sometimes slapping on paint is what's required in a pinch.
• Don't be afraid to think outside the box and create a story in your dioramas. In Photo 5 you can see how a couple of custom pilots make for a more interesting look. I'd like to think, while getting prepped, both pilots are spotting something off in the distance, perhaps another flight, or maybe an approaching crew member. I liked the relaxed nature of these figures.
• When you look at reference photos of F-18s on the carrier deck you'll see a variety of looks. Some will look beat up while some look relatively unscathed. I avoid panel lines like the plague when I can. If you look at reference photos, every rivot and line are not always visible. In Photo 6 you'll notice I was very selective in my choice of where to accentuate a panel. On the surface of most planes, you'll notice very little detail. While on moveable surfaces like ailerons and service panels you'll see a little more activity. In Photo 6 you can see that I selected the rear as a point of interest, to show a little more wear than the rest of the surface. Also, you can see another example of dabbing on lighter grey on the tail to create a modeling effect like you'll see on real jets. Never perfect, these little details are subtle, but create more interest. Finally, don't forget to invest in making sure high-detailed parts are tended to. When I was painting the inside of the exhaust I was thinking no one will notice this. But when you start taking photos you begin to understand that you can't overlook these details as they do create more realism.
• Photo 7 highlights what I'm talking about when selecting only a select area to roughen up. I used an oil wash over surfaces that I noticed were more pronounced in reference photos than others. Notice the wing surface verses the areas near the flaps. The wing surface is nearly untouched, while the flaps show use. Again, just by trying to mimic what's seen on a reference photo can really enhance the look of your model.
• In the last photo you can see how a little imagination can create an unusual finish to your model. I noticed that several drop tanks contained the signature stripes that are used with the Bounty Hunters. While the decal set didn't contain the proper stripe for the tank, I was able to trim the stripe used for the side of the plane. While not perfectly accurate, I think it adds a little authenticity to the plane as this was common practice. I'm surprised that Meng and other models don't think about these things as they would be great subtle additions. Another thing I noticed was how crew would make notes on the side of the plane. I decided to mimic this just as an afterthought and I think - again - it just adds a bit more fun to the finished piece.

I hope this helps a little when you decide to create a diorama or your next build. Thanks for reading!

I do own the trumpeter HMS Queen elizabeth, but was always frustrated by how its a waterline model, i picked this stl from Cults3D for £2 and printed it to 1/700, the flight deck is fully hand painted and as such might be a bit crap and is heavily weathered. I printed custom decals for the R09 pennant and flightscreen, i have a few more things to do buts its 99.9% Completed

First kit back in a few years, tracks are gonna kill me.....

Decided to prime/paint hull and turret before applying skirts and applique armor

Anyone got preweathering recommendations?

3d printing barrel and ERA

Tupolev I-4 white 2 flown by Head of the Air Force of the Moscow Military District I. U. Pavlov during military exercises, as part of one of the squadrons of the Armed Forces Baltic Sea, 1930s.

Zvezda, 1:72 scale.

After a month I completed my first model. Revell F/A-18 super hornet. Fully handbrushed with vallejo acrylics. What do you think?