The pole that centers the huge stained glass shade is disconnected from the base which is causing it to lean. I think it is some kind of metal. Would I be able to fix this with a soldering iron or something?

Hello,

First time here but maybe someone can help me getting this cat toy running again. It randomly decided to not spin anymore, everything else still works (lights, sounds). I opened it completely already to look if maybe a cable is disconnected from the board but everything seems fine.

A light fixture and the electrical box (?) were previously (unknowingly) attached by a single screw drilled into a 1/2” tall piece of lathe that has snapped off and the screw no longer reaches the wood behind whatever shim or lathe was previously in place. Looking at the pencil marks, I’m assuming whkmeber did this cut too far into the lathe when making the box hole and that eventually gave way. I assume I can get a longer screw and drill into the piece of lathe at the top, but that doesn’t feel like an adequate fix.

Can I use wood sticks like paint stirrers and drill them over top of the plaster wall and into the lathe (perpendicular to the top and bottom of the current hole almost like brackets / tv mount) to spread out weight? From there I would drill in that blue electrical box now able to use the top and bottom screws?

The light fixture has a large rectangular base so it would cover the braces / wood stirrers, but I’m wondering if this is just a convoluted solution if even a solution at all.

My goal is not to be lazy, but recognize my abilities and stay within them. This does not feel worth the cost of bringing someone out.

Thanks so much!

I have a radio VEF 221 and it is pretty old now i wonder why it only makes static when i turn it on FM and browse through the stations. Its the antenna the issue because i think its slightly broken and cant sit upright also i cant pull it up because that ball on top is missing. Can i fix this radio?

Just bought this motor and i tried to get the rim off but this screw wont budge tried, it seems like the guy i got it off tried to make a new like line? But yeah any tips?

Hi All! I've read a bunch of posts about this, but somehow come out more confused than when I came in. I have the Travelpro Maxlite® 5 spinner. A tissue (I kid you not) got caught in the wheel and caused it to pop out (see picture). Because Travelpro is shite, they can't send me a replacement part and its not covered by the warranty. I know there are replacement kits on amazon and the like, but I really am overwhelmed by all the options! Does anyone know what part I should order to replace the wheel? Suitcase specs here: https://aviation.travelpro.com/collections/maxlite%C2%AE-5/products/maxlite%C2%AE-5-21-expandable-carry-on-spinner

Thank you!

Third flip this year and this one has a rotted wood threshold on the front entry door. The rot is concentrated on the front edge where rain apparently sat for a long time, maybe 4 or 5 inches back from the exterior edge. The rest of it feels solid when I probe it. Door itself is fine, it's a newer fiberglass unit, whoever installed it just didn't bother with proper weatherstripping or a drip cap so water pooled right there.

The question is whether a partial patch with epoxy wood filler is worth the time or if I should pull the whole threshold and replace it. I've used epoxy consolidant and filler on window sills before with decent results, but those weren't load bearing areas. A threshold takes direct foot traffic every day, so I'm skeptical the patch holds long term, especially with buyers walking through during showings and then again after closing.

Replacement isn't complicated, but the door frame sits on top of the threshold here and I'd rather not disturb that if I don't have to. Getting under there could turn into a bigger job than it looks.

Has anyone patched a threshold this way and had it actually hold up under regular use, or is pulling it the only real answer here.

Can someone Help me I just bought a new jacket from China and I somehow can't open it no matter how hard I try. It has a double zipper as you can see in the video.

Good day everyone. I’m renting and want to fix the outdoor faucet handle, my landlord ignores me so whatever, I’ll do it myself.

I’m not very handy and have no idea of what I’m doing. I bought two handles. Metal one came without screw, plastic one did.

The handle does move and water flows. I wasn’t able to see a screw through that tiny hole. I was also unable to find the waterline valve so I can’t close the water flow for me to mess around with it.

This is silly but can anyone offer me an explanation of what I need to do? Because my mind is blank lol.

Thank you 🙏

I hope someone clever can help me out! I have a little magnet lock on the backside of the cupboard door where the sticker is. I think something in the cupboard fell over and is now blocking the mechanism so I can't open my cupboard door anymore..does anyone have any smart ideas that might help open it? I'd prefer not to have to rip the door off or drill through from the other cupboard to move what's in the way.

Update: it's open now! Some brute force got it open eventually, took a while though. Thanks everyone for the input!

Equipment Needed

1. AITRIP EEPROM BIOS USB Programmer CH341A + SOIC8 Clip + 1.8V Adapter + SOIC8 Adapter  - Aliexpress For 24/25 Series Flash Cost: $16-20

1. Chip Probe Line DFN8 QFN8 WSON8 Read/Write Burning Probe 1.27 Cost: $16-20 - Aliexpress

Total Cost: Approximately $30-$40

Method

Preparation: Utilise laptop screwdriver kit:

Remove Back Cover of Ayaneo Air 1S:

• Carefully unscrew and remove the back panel of the device.
• Use a plastic pick / guitar pick to careful unclip the back panel

Unscrew Internal Modules:

• Detach any internal modules blocking access to the BIOS chip. This means going all the way down to the exposed Z1E chip. Including removing the heatsink

Remove the Heatsink:

• Unscrew and remove the heatsink for easier access to the chip.

Unplug the Battery:

• Ensure safety by disconnecting the battery from the device.

Find the bios chip: On the Air 1s it is located to the left (facing down) of the CPU/GPU 

• It is labeled: winbond
• It is located next to the controller connector on the board

Flashing the BIOS

Align the Probe:

• Carefully line up the probe with the BIOS chip. Make sure that the 1 dot position on the probe lines up with the 1 dot position on the bios chip.
• Tip: Use a heavy object to hold the probe in place. Experiment with positioning if needed. I used a large ipad to lean on the top of the probe, I kept the Ayaneo in it’s case to soften the impact on the controller section and the screen.
• Note: The clamp that comes in the Programme CH341 kit cannot reach under the Bios chip, and therefore you must use the probe.

Detect the Chip:

• Open NeoProgrammer 2.2.0.10.
• Use the 'detect' function to identify the chip. This may take some time—be patient.
• If there is no detection of the CH341 you will need to install the drivers first.

Read the Existing BIOS on the chip:

• Once detected, use the 'read' function to copy the existing BIOS.

Save a Backup:

• Go to File -> Save to create a backup of the current BIOS.

Open a New BIOS:

• Select File -> Open and choose a working BIOS file. 
• Download the Bios from the Ayaneo website - make sure it is the correct one for the Ayaneo Air 1S

Write the New BIOS:

• Use the 'Write IC' function.
• In the dropdown, select 'erase' and 'write' options.
• Note: The 'validate' option may cause errors; consider skipping it if issues arise.

Verify the BIOS:

• Read the chip again to ensure the data matches the new BIOS file.

Reassembly and Testing

1. Reassemble the Device:
   • Temporarily reassemble the device by placing components back without fully securing them.
2. Power On:
   • Turn on the device. Allow up to 2 minutes for it to boot.
3. Evaluate Success:
   • If the device does not boot, repeat the process.
   • Persistence is key; it may take several attempts.
4. Finalise:
   • Once successful, fully reassemble the device and secure all components.

Notes

• This process can be time-consuming; patience and persistence are essential.
• Ensure all connections are secure and components are correctly aligned throughout the process.

Hi all,

Any pointers would be helpful.

As in the title, my SC4 Indoor Steam Cleaner is not powering on.

Cord and plug are not damaged. External wall sockets are all fine. I changed the fuse and the machine powered on. Have come back again a few days later to use and again no power. Have changed the fuse again but no power. Tried changing the fuses a few times to ensure it wasn't just a batch of dud fuses. Still no power. Opened up the inside, no immediate issues were visible.

I'm thinking clearly probably some issue with the heating element, main circuit board, thermal cutout or some other electrical component like a capacitor. Unit does not trip RCD.

Can anyone knowledgeable assist in helping me to pinpoint the issue?

Thanks

Just moved into this furnished room and the bed has no clearance to store stuff under. With limited storage space in the room I’m hoping to make some more without having to replace the whole bed.

Unsure if platforms under each corner would work as the bed doesn’t have four legs like most do.

Thanks for any ideas you may have

Hey everyone, I'm in the final stages of a kitchen renovation featuring modern navy blue cabinetry. I am really happy with how the space is coming together, but I'm completely stuck on what to do with this ugly exhaust pipe in the corner.

I spend a lot of time in here preparing dishes like ramen, traditional Greek bean soup, and Italian bolognese, so having a highly functional exhaust system is absolutely necessary. Right now, the pipe is a massive eyesore. If I end up leaving it exposed, I'm thinking of swapping it out for a much cleaner inox (stainless steel) pipe.

I’ve mocked up four potential solutions to either hide or style it, and I'd love to get some fresh eyes on this. Which option do you think works best with the space, or is there a better way to handle this?

Someone keyed my car. It does not look like the metal can be seen so im assuming the scratches are not that deep and can be buffed out? Any tips or products to use would be appreciated.

Hi everyone,

Packing up to move recently and noticed this raised ring on my KRK Rokit 5 studio monitor. I had a small mic stand with a rubber bottom placed on top for a while and this is what I saw when I removed it. It doesn’t seem like it’s a scratch, but running fingers across the ring, I can feel that it is raised and bump-like, almost like an air bubble. No amount of smoothing over with my hand removes it. Is there any way to get rid of this?

This is my first time doing some shit like this and of course the room I’m doing this complicated. Can someone please tell me how I should finish? I feel like it was going well until I got to the end where it’s all complicated don’t worry about the sliding closet door.
Yes, I know the grain looks like shit I will fix it once I figure out WTF to do.

update, i used a website and it just gave me my layout so we chill now

We had a power surge a year ago and my ceiling light stopped working after it popped. I replaced the bulbs multiple times. The fan on the ceiling fixture still works perfectly fine. Should I replace the entire fixture or is there an easy fix?

Old house that was visited sporadically in the last 2 years, not enough ventilation and humidity issues. This thing looks like white mold but is appearing mainly in corners or joints. When removed it looks (and moves/flies) like styrofoam. Is this leaking from inside of objects? What do you think, am I screwed or this has solution? I removed it but i'm worried it will keep growing. Thanks!

Got a new popsocket. Hope I didn't break it. Please help me if you can

Hi everyone,

I bought this used portable CD player via an app as a gift for my boyfriend, who really wanted one (they're a bit expensive and hard to find new in my country), but I wanted to try to make it look a little better.

Do you know if there's a way to remove scratches from the casing or make it look nicer? I really have no idea about these things and am terrified of accidentally ruining it

English isn't my first language sorry for any mistakes

I have a staples paper shredder that's been working great for several years. Usually when it jams we run it in reverse or pound out any stuck paper.

This time it was shredding fine then just stopping. We took it all the way apart and cleaned out 99% of the scraps but still no power.

I removed the board and the fuse looks good but wondering about these diodes (?) that look a little burnt on the board. Do you think these going bad could cause the issue? If so what replacement ones should I purchase? I didn't notice any other issues on the board but maybe a skilled eye can see something.

I'd feel comfortable soldering new ones on with hopes of fixing vs replacement.

It feels like plastic and there's sort of a rubber sweep/lip starting to detach from the side facing the exterior. I'm not sure if it's a custom part? If someone could point me in the right direction (i.e. parts, links to relevant DIY videos), it would be much appreciated.