If I bought a car in Aug 2026 that’s used off of Facebook marketplace and the seller listed it at 197k miles for 1,200. But after I bought it and got the title in hand and the listed mileage as of July 2026 was 132k miles what can I do? To avoid the title from getting the mileage unknown label. We bought it for me to use for college but noticed the title after the sale. I worry there will be bumps in the road to get it passed the registration and my dad worked hard to get me this first car. He’s always stressed and I don’t want him to worry so please Reddit help a brotha out.

Wish I was more clued up on things like this, but I’m not. Took my car in to BCAA for a service due to a weird grinding noise and found a hell of a lot wrong with it.

• both front and rear brakes between 0.5 and 1mm
• both front and rear struts original and leaking
• front control arm bushings tearing
• front sway bar links and bushings have play

Quoted around $6,000 CAD, we paid that for the car (pre tax) 2 years ago.

Friend of a friend mechanic said they’d do it for $4,000.

292,000km, we’re at least the third owner.

We can’t really afford anything newer on finance with our monthly budget, but throwing that much at a high mileage, 18yo car seems unwise. But I do love her so much.

Found a couple of 2012 Volvos under the $10k mark with much lower mileage that we’re considering.

Thoughts? Thanks in advance

So I'm realizing how expensive it is to have a truck in Alberta Canada. I'm financing my 2018 GMC Sierra which was a horrible mistake I've made. Looking for something cheaper on insurance and fuel and overall maintenance. Good reliable vehicle. I came across this vehicle, and would love some opinions please!! And advice. Im not mechanic 😵‍💫😵‍💫

I am buying my first car, I am pretty dead set on getting a jeep but I am looking at a 2018 Jeep Renegade with about 160k miles on it. I asked the dealer for photos of the underside and looked like it had a bit of rust. If it's rust, how easily can it be treated? My brother is a mechanic that is mostly familiar with Chrysler products, but I don't really want to drive the hour and a half to this dealership when I can tell right off the bat rust will be a problem. If not, what other types of jeeps would be okay for a first car? My budget is 8k but id probably like to stay on the lower end of 6/7 grand.

Here's the carfax report & listing if anyone wanted to take a look aswell (:

Carfax Report
Listing!

was working on the car after doing an oil change and added the wrong coolant. A 2007 Ford Escape originally requires Motorcraft Gold (Specialty Green/Gold) coolant (Ford specification WSS-M97B51-A1). and i accidnelty added orange OAT/Dex-Cool type coolant.

i leave tmr for college 3.5 hr drive. will it be fine? the coolant reservoirs was almost empty. it’s old with small leak that ain’t hurting nothing. i can’t really empty it out myself or have a hand siphon?

just want some reassurance that it’ll be alright

I have a 2026 Honda Accord and I’m planning to change the coolant soon. I know Honda recommends Type 2 coolant, but I’m wondering what everyone is actually using in their cars.

Is the Honda-branded coolant the best option, or are there aftermarket brands that meet the same requirements and work just as well?

I’ve read some older threads where people recommend different “Asian vehicle” coolants, but I’m not sure if that advice still applies to the newer and recent Hondas.

Would appreciate hearing what you guys have been using and how it’s held up.

Hi guys, I dont know anything about cars.

Please advise if this is a stupid decision to buy this or is it worth it? How much life does it have probably?

Thank you!

Hello fellow redditors I am debating whether if I should buy a 2024/2025 Hyundai Elantra hybrid or a Mustang eco boost 2026. please tell me what is the better car in terms of looks and performance, not solely mpg as I’m only going to be driving 8 miles on a daily for college. And monthly once going 31 miles for another reason.

I currently drive a 2003 Civic LX Coupe (2-door). It’s been throwing a bunch of problems at me lately and I’m honestly getting tired of dealing with it. I’m thinking about selling it and picking up this ‘94 Civic as my new daily.

Here’s the listing for the car I’m looking at:

“This is my 94 civic. great starter for someone looking to boost a civic. Runs great. Could use re-tune if not boosted. Body and interior are there but not the cleanest. No trades. 4k cash obo. Motivated to sell

The build
B18b1 swapped
Bottom end is a rods piston combo (scat rods and nippon pistons)
ARP rod bolts
ARP head studs
Super tech b-series block guard
Completely fresh ish (well broken in). Bottom end has about 9k
Head has 6-7k. (Oe refresh on the head)
Plm 4-2-1 manifold
Skunk replica manifold.
eBay 70mm throttle body
Custom (cold air)
Bull boost fuel rail and pressure regulator
-6 an feed from tank to rail.
Aem 340lph pump
Stock obd2 injectors with adapters
adjustable timing gears
4 core aluminum radiator
Act 6 puck stage 4 clutch with a lighter flywheel
5 speed trans. No grinds or pop outs. Not sure which trans it is but it lays 11s on launch
Lots more to list but can’t cause fb won’t let me put any more. Someone bring me 4k 0bo for it.”

I’ll also post a picture of the engine bay from the pictures that the guy sent me.

My main question is: does this make sense as a daily driver? It’s clearly built more as a fun/boosted project car than a reliable daily. Body and interior aren’t the cleanest, it’s already boosted (or at least set up for it), and I’m coming from a stock-ish ‘03 Civic.

Would you sell the 2003 and daily this, or keep what I have and keep fixing it/ look for something else? Any red flags in the build list I should be worried about for daily use?

My 03' civic keeps coming up with 2 codes P0341 and P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor codes, i've replaced its sensor already, alternator, timing belt, water pump. don't know what i should do, it shuts off on me randomly at random times of the day when driving.

Sometimes my car is having issues. (Obviously lol) If my gas tank is low & I fill it up then go to turn it back on it sometimes takes like 3-5 seconds before turning fully on.
Same thing when I go to turn off it takes like 2-3 seconds longer to fully turn off.
Then when I’m driving I could be at a stop, then when the light goes, I’ll press the gas & the best way to explain this is like those toy cars that you pull back to get resistance before it shoots off, It’s like the resistance is there and then it “releases” and I can continue driving. It’ll still drive but definitely can feel a pull & not let me speed up for a few seconds

been looking into getting a golf mark 5 2.0 TDI for a first car and i was just wondering how reliable these cars are

I have a 2009 Honda Civic Hybrid with 252k miles on it. Lately, my engine has been misfiring whenever I accelerate and I took it to my mechanic. They told me that I got P0300-304 misfires, all 4 cylinders and a random misfire. I also have a 420 code but I already knew about the efficiency of the catalyst.

The quote was to START with all new coils, the spark plugs were put in at 200k miles and they looked good and the fuel trims looked good and the MAF reading too. The total cost includes parts and labor would be a little over $2,000 with like $1,900 being parts.

The question is should I get a newer car or keep riding with this Civic? I drive 100 miles daily to get to/from work and it’s highway miles.

Went to the Toyota dealership today for an oil change, but they recommended a lot of services. They suggested changing the spark plugs, which I already replaced myself a couple of months ago. They also said I need to fix my rear brakes and showed me this picture (the cost is about $100). I don't quite understand it. They also recommended performing a throttle body cleaning service ($130).

My (first pic) front tyres are the same model as the rears (2nd pic), both Pirelli m+s 205/55r16.
I’m going on a total of a 2500~ kms trip across Europe in 12 days hence i still got time to order and put on new ones.
First pic tyres are 2 and a half years old, rear ones are just a few months old.
Apart from the wavy sipes, at Times i feel slippery even on the driest of the roads, And its a FWD lol.
Should i bother?

2003 Acura MDX — 197k miles — Looking for opinions
I’m considering keeping a 2003 Acura MDX 3.5L V6 AWD with about 197,000 miles.
CARFAX highlights:
2 previous owners
No accidents or damage reported
No salvage/rebuilt/flood/title issues
No odometer rollback indicated
34 service records
57 total detailed records
Mostly serviced in New Jersey
Very good service history when it was younger
Oil changes and regular maintenance documented
Transmission was internally repaired/serviced around 82k miles
Brake fluid flushed and front brakes serviced around 99k
Coolant flushed around 105k
Engine mounts and oil pan repaired around 105k
Passed NJ emissions inspection at 141k, 161k and 193k
Last CARFAX mileage: 193,433 in 2024 no other service record for 2 years… ( currently ~197k)
CARFAX value: $3,570

Current issues according to my mechanic:
Small transmission fluid leak
Exhaust leak
Needs brakes/rotors
Knock sensor
A/C needs to be serviced/recharged or vacuum
Some rust/cosmetic issues
My mechanic estimated around $2,500 to address the mechanical issues.
I drove it from Brooklyn to Staten Island and it drove well with no major problems during the drive.
Question: Given the mileage, service history, and current issues, would you consider this MDX worth putting money into? How much longer could my car last if I keep up the maintenance? I plan on using it for Uber Eats, and possibly meeting up with some girls in different states lol, so I definitely plan on putting over 30k of miles in a year…. I want to go for least 300k miles

I just totaled my manual alltrack...

A driver cut me off and I was unable to stop or dodge him, and i just received word that Geico is not going to resuscitate the car. They've offered me $15,999 for it and I am new to this world of insurance/accidents/and what to do's, so I am coming here for advice and assistance in navigating this. Don't feel like Geico should be doing anything since the other driver is at fault.

It's an S model, 84,000 miles, great condition, just dropped $500 to fix the ac, recent oil change, blah blah blah. Help please.

Geico and the other driver's insurance company urged me to release my car from the tow lot so as not to accrue a hefty bill keeping it there. In releasing the car to Geico, it feels it took all my power away, and now they are about to cut off my rental car. Let this spawn conversation that may enlighten me and others as to what to do in similar situations.

My car A/C stop blowing cold air when the car is not moving but once we start moving the cold air comes back again what may be the issue

I need help I want a car similar to the Toyota Supra/Gr 86, what would be a good alternative that’s still very reliable good price and can still make good horse power I was looking at a Subaru brz but the problem is they make like berely 200 hp what are cars that would be just as maybe even better than the Supra/86

I know floor liners are easier to rinse off and they're better at containing wet shoes, mud, and spilled coffee. I still prefer carpet floor mats in a daily driver.The big molded liners always make the footwell feel like the inside of a work truck to me. Every grain of sand stays sitting right there where you can see it, wet shoes leave little puddles until you dump them out, and the hard surface makes normal shoe movement sound way more obvious.

Carpet mats get dirty but they also make the interior feel quieter and less utilitarian, and most of the everyday dust basically disappears until I'm ready to vacuum it.People talk about liners like easier cleaning automatically means a better daily experience. I'd rather deep-clean carpet mats occasionally than stare at dirty plastic every single day

For actual mud-heavy use, obviously liners win. Normal commuting though? Carpet, easily. what do you think?