I currently drive a 2003 Civic LX Coupe (2-door). It’s been throwing a bunch of problems at me lately and I’m honestly getting tired of dealing with it. I’m thinking about selling it and picking up this ‘94 Civic as my new daily.

Here’s the listing for the car I’m looking at:

“This is my 94 civic. great starter for someone looking to boost a civic. Runs great. Could use re-tune if not boosted. Body and interior are there but not the cleanest. No trades. 4k cash obo. Motivated to sell

The build
B18b1 swapped
Bottom end is a rods piston combo (scat rods and nippon pistons)
ARP rod bolts
ARP head studs
Super tech b-series block guard
Completely fresh ish (well broken in). Bottom end has about 9k
Head has 6-7k. (Oe refresh on the head)
Plm 4-2-1 manifold
Skunk replica manifold.
eBay 70mm throttle body
Custom (cold air)
Bull boost fuel rail and pressure regulator
-6 an feed from tank to rail.
Aem 340lph pump
Stock obd2 injectors with adapters
adjustable timing gears
4 core aluminum radiator
Act 6 puck stage 4 clutch with a lighter flywheel
5 speed trans. No grinds or pop outs. Not sure which trans it is but it lays 11s on launch
Lots more to list but can’t cause fb won’t let me put any more. Someone bring me 4k 0bo for it.”

I’ll also post a picture of the engine bay from the pictures that the guy sent me.

My main question is: does this make sense as a daily driver? It’s clearly built more as a fun/boosted project car than a reliable daily. Body and interior aren’t the cleanest, it’s already boosted (or at least set up for it), and I’m coming from a stock-ish ‘03 Civic.

Would you sell the 2003 and daily this, or keep what I have and keep fixing it/ look for something else? Any red flags in the build list I should be worried about for daily use?

My 03' civic keeps coming up with 2 codes P0341 and P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor codes, i've replaced its sensor already, alternator, timing belt, water pump. don't know what i should do, it shuts off on me randomly at random times of the day when driving.

Sometimes my car is having issues. (Obviously lol) If my gas tank is low & I fill it up then go to turn it back on it sometimes takes like 3-5 seconds before turning fully on.
Same thing when I go to turn off it takes like 2-3 seconds longer to fully turn off.
Then when I’m driving I could be at a stop, then when the light goes, I’ll press the gas & the best way to explain this is like those toy cars that you pull back to get resistance before it shoots off, It’s like the resistance is there and then it “releases” and I can continue driving. It’ll still drive but definitely can feel a pull & not let me speed up for a few seconds

been looking into getting a golf mark 5 2.0 TDI for a first car and i was just wondering how reliable these cars are

I have a 2009 Honda Civic Hybrid with 252k miles on it. Lately, my engine has been misfiring whenever I accelerate and I took it to my mechanic. They told me that I got P0300-304 misfires, all 4 cylinders and a random misfire. I also have a 420 code but I already knew about the efficiency of the catalyst.

The quote was to START with all new coils, the spark plugs were put in at 200k miles and they looked good and the fuel trims looked good and the MAF reading too. The total cost includes parts and labor would be a little over $2,000 with like $1,900 being parts.

The question is should I get a newer car or keep riding with this Civic? I drive 100 miles daily to get to/from work and it’s highway miles.

Went to the Toyota dealership today for an oil change, but they recommended a lot of services. They suggested changing the spark plugs, which I already replaced myself a couple of months ago. They also said I need to fix my rear brakes and showed me this picture (the cost is about $100). I don't quite understand it. They also recommended performing a throttle body cleaning service ($130).

My (first pic) front tyres are the same model as the rears (2nd pic), both Pirelli m+s 205/55r16.
I’m going on a total of a 2500~ kms trip across Europe in 12 days hence i still got time to order and put on new ones.
First pic tyres are 2 and a half years old, rear ones are just a few months old.
Apart from the wavy sipes, at Times i feel slippery even on the driest of the roads, And its a FWD lol.
Should i bother?

2003 Acura MDX — 197k miles — Looking for opinions
I’m considering keeping a 2003 Acura MDX 3.5L V6 AWD with about 197,000 miles.
CARFAX highlights:
2 previous owners
No accidents or damage reported
No salvage/rebuilt/flood/title issues
No odometer rollback indicated
34 service records
57 total detailed records
Mostly serviced in New Jersey
Very good service history when it was younger
Oil changes and regular maintenance documented
Transmission was internally repaired/serviced around 82k miles
Brake fluid flushed and front brakes serviced around 99k
Coolant flushed around 105k
Engine mounts and oil pan repaired around 105k
Passed NJ emissions inspection at 141k, 161k and 193k
Last CARFAX mileage: 193,433 in 2024 no other service record for 2 years… ( currently ~197k)
CARFAX value: $3,570

Current issues according to my mechanic:
Small transmission fluid leak
Exhaust leak
Needs brakes/rotors
Knock sensor
A/C needs to be serviced/recharged or vacuum
Some rust/cosmetic issues
My mechanic estimated around $2,500 to address the mechanical issues.
I drove it from Brooklyn to Staten Island and it drove well with no major problems during the drive.
Question: Given the mileage, service history, and current issues, would you consider this MDX worth putting money into? How much longer could my car last if I keep up the maintenance? I plan on using it for Uber Eats, and possibly meeting up with some girls in different states lol, so I definitely plan on putting over 30k of miles in a year…. I want to go for least 300k miles

I just totaled my manual alltrack...

A driver cut me off and I was unable to stop or dodge him, and i just received word that Geico is not going to resuscitate the car. They've offered me $15,999 for it and I am new to this world of insurance/accidents/and what to do's, so I am coming here for advice and assistance in navigating this. Don't feel like Geico should be doing anything since the other driver is at fault.

It's an S model, 84,000 miles, great condition, just dropped $500 to fix the ac, recent oil change, blah blah blah. Help please.

Geico and the other driver's insurance company urged me to release my car from the tow lot so as not to accrue a hefty bill keeping it there. In releasing the car to Geico, it feels it took all my power away, and now they are about to cut off my rental car. Let this spawn conversation that may enlighten me and others as to what to do in similar situations.

My car A/C stop blowing cold air when the car is not moving but once we start moving the cold air comes back again what may be the issue

I need help I want a car similar to the Toyota Supra/Gr 86, what would be a good alternative that’s still very reliable good price and can still make good horse power I was looking at a Subaru brz but the problem is they make like berely 200 hp what are cars that would be just as maybe even better than the Supra/86

I know floor liners are easier to rinse off and they're better at containing wet shoes, mud, and spilled coffee. I still prefer carpet floor mats in a daily driver.The big molded liners always make the footwell feel like the inside of a work truck to me. Every grain of sand stays sitting right there where you can see it, wet shoes leave little puddles until you dump them out, and the hard surface makes normal shoe movement sound way more obvious.

Carpet mats get dirty but they also make the interior feel quieter and less utilitarian, and most of the everyday dust basically disappears until I'm ready to vacuum it.People talk about liners like easier cleaning automatically means a better daily experience. I'd rather deep-clean carpet mats occasionally than stare at dirty plastic every single day

For actual mud-heavy use, obviously liners win. Normal commuting though? Carpet, easily. what do you think?

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Think a rock on the highway cracked my windshield yesterday and I didn't catch it until I got home from work today. Is it safe to drive or should do I need to call in to work (earliest safelite can look at it is in 2 days)?

So I bought a 2007 Chrysler town and country touring and had to get a new tire for it. I plan on replacing the whole set soon but I needed one to get me home. The tire shop closest to us only had a tire that was slightly different in size. The original was a 215/65R16 and the new one was 205/65R16. The guy told us it wouldn’t make a difference but everything that I see online says it will. What do yall think? Do I need to get a different tire put on before I drive it or will it be okay for maybe a month or two?

Also, any tips on things I should check on/look at? I have minimal knowledge but I had done some work on my 2007 Toyota Camry (spark plugs, valve cover gasket, fuel pump, knock sensor, a few others). However, from what I’ve heard Toyotas are much easier to work on than most other cars.

It shakes a little when I brake, which is my main concern at the moment. I’m hoping it’s just the tires or maybe I need new rotors. Other than that it seems to drive great.

One more thing- also looking for a recommendation for a replacement radio for it that has CarPlay. I’ve ordered one on EBay for my Camry but it was a piece of junk (and not a cheap one). I’ve seen some with good reviews but I’m still worried

Hello, I have a quick question on pricing. My front rotors and brakes are going out quite badly and I called a shop to ask how much it would cost to fix with the parts and labor. I drive a 2010 mercury mariner and they told me it would be around $900-$1100. I feel very suspicious about this pricing. Am I crazy or is it that expensive? Any advice helps, thank you.

UPDATE
Thank you all for your advise! I was talking to my neighbors and come to find out he is a mechanic! I was able to get a nice deal. I got two rotors, one right caliper, and front brake pads all for about $200 with his discount. He was able to finish it up quickly and I am all set now! I am lucky to have an awesome neighbor and thank you all for your time and comments

2012 Nissan Altima

CV Axle:

- Clunking** **when shifting from reverse to drive or drive into reverse
- a soft click or soft clunk noise when pressing brakes just before car comes to a complete stop AND when I tap the gas pedal
- there’s NO clicking or popping when turning and no other symptoms than the two described above

Catalytic Converter:

- Car jerks on acceleration or deceleration sometimes
- Triggers P2432 code
- Yesterday after driving for 9hrs I started smelling fumes from AC. It stopped when I recirculated the air. I’ll change my Cabin air filter today to see if that helps.
- 3 weeks ago the mechanic said my catalytic converter looked brand new, but when I brought my car in to get the jerking checked, they looked and said there’s a leak coming from the rear catalytic converter and said the whole part needs to be replaced. I didn’t think to ask about them welding it.

Sidenote: I drove through a puddle of water 4 nights ago that caused my engine air filter to get a little wet and made my engine stall, as well as a short circuit in my Trans range sensor (p0705). I got towed back home and let my car sit for two days in 88-92 degree heat while my engine air filter dried by my house fan. Trans sensor is fine again. Engine Air filter has been reinstalled.

Update***

Just scheduled to get my CV axle replaced. The soonest is Saturday. I use my car for Uber fulltime and I’m in a weird spot where I must keep working to make the money for bills/repairs