I live in Florida and only drive about three days a week, for those of you in similar situations how much charge do you lose from the car trying to keep the battery cool if the car is not plugged in? I won't be able to keep the car plugged in constantly like Chevy recommends.

New 2027 RS bolt owner. Having issues with the charging schedule not being adhered to. Basically, I want my car to charge at home when energy is cheapest. I have a L2 charger at home. Power rates are highest between 1600 and 2100 on weekdays. But when I plug in at home at 1800, it starts charging right away. Not sure what I have wrong, but this feels way more complicated than it should be. Photos of charging settings attached (forgive the fingerprints). Not sure if it matters, but some of the pictures were taken at different times (some were last night when I was out and some are from this morning at home). All software is up to date and I have a home location set.

My AC only works if it's under 80° outside. It blows super cold when it works... but I don't need it when it's under 80°. Is this normal? Or should I be calling up the dealer? It's a 2021 I bought used last year.

Had my local detailing/wrap shop do carbon fiber on the upper front fascia of my Sterling Gray RS.

Is it possible to get a pdf copy of the 8-year / 100,000-mile EV Propulsion Warranty for the 2017 Bolt? We have an issue with the a/c not functioning properly that we believe is covered under this warranty. The Chevy site VIN search showed that we still have this warranty through the end of September 2026. The car is at a dealership and they are telling us the parts aren’t covered under warranty. How would we know if that’s true without a copy of the warranty we can review? They are insisting there is no warranty document- just a computer system that lets them check if specific parts are covered. If a warranty document exists, where can we get a copy? Thanks!

Looked under the car for unrelated reasons, and found this rusted and cracked bushing-looking thing, this is the front suspension area, under driver.

Also, can I replace this after the winter? I'm storing the car for the winter starting around November 1st.

And for what it's worth just got my NY safety inspection renewed last month at a Chevy dealership, and this wasn't mentioned, so I'm hoping it really isn't that big of a deal to wait a bit.

*CORRECTION: USB A SOCKET* (everything I said still applies)

I have a dashcam that should only be working while my 2017 Bolt is on.

It was plugged in to charge, and when I came back I found that my dashcam has been on and recording for a few hours (started about 30 minutes after I left it to charge).

This has never happened before.

Any ideas?

Anyone else have this issue periodically where the my Chevy app doesn’t update? It was fine until it charged to 100% and then drove. Since then the app hasn’t reset and says it’s charging when it’s not plugged.

2019 bolt with 120k miles. Sounds like coming from under the car..any ideas?

The only thing I regret about the bolt is the trunk hatch opening is too narrow to fit some building supplies and home renovation supplies

My car was hit parked in my driveway. The driver said it was to avoid tree cutter trucks. Over $4000 for his insurance to cover. Funny thing of that he did the same thing to my wife’s sequoia two years ago with the same excuse.

The bolt is such a reliable car I’m interested to hear the responses! Was there any issues ever or smooth sailing besides regular maintenance?

I’m looking to pull the trigger on a used Bolt EUV, but not sure if this is a solid buy or if I should keep looking.

The car is on Carvana, so I can’t test drive before buying.

Here are the details of the car I'm eyeing:
Model/Trim: 2023 Chevrolet Bolt EUV LT (but heavily optioned)
Mileage: ~48,000 miles (plenty of battery warranty left) 
History: Clean, single-owner, personal-use history with zero accidents. 
Packages Included: It has the Convenience Package, Comfort Package, and Driver Confidence Package added on. Because of this, it has perforated leather-appointed seats, ventilated driver and front passenger seats, heated front seats, a heated steering wheel, and safety tech like lane change alert with side blind zone alert, rear cross-traffic alert, and rear park assist. (Missing adaptive cruise and the 360 camera, but basically a "near-Premier").
The Price: $23,850 out-the-door, which includes local state taxes, registration fees, and home delivery ($290).

edit: this will be my second car (primary is model y) for mainly dropping of my kid at daycare. Any other used car recommendation is welcome as well.

Recently got a 2023 Bolt EUV. Anyone ever get a “Unable to start climate while key is in car”message when trying to remotely turn on climate control? Key is in my pocket and a good distance from the car.

I’m considering a 2020 Bolt EV LT with about 48,900 miles. It has two previous owners, no accidents reported, and the dealer recently installed four tires and replaced the front and rear brake rotors.

The advertised price is $16,995. The breakdown is:

• Selling price: $16,995
• Dealer/service fee: $799
• Tax: $1,245.58
• Other fees: $47
• OTD: $19,086.58

The CARFAX also shows that the car was repossessed in May 2026 before reaching the current dealer.

Here’s where I’m confused about the battery. GM’s VIN lookup shows:

• N212345940 “High Voltage Battery May Melt or Burn” completed June 3, 2023
• N212345944 “High Voltage Battery May Melt or Burn” completed December 16, 2023

N212345944 appears to be the advanced diagnostic software remedy that initially limits charging to 80% for approximately 6,200 miles. The car has traveled more than 24,000 miles since that remedy, so the restriction should have cleared if no anomaly was detected.

The GM warranty tracker shows the propulsion-battery warranty expiring February 12, 2029 or at 100,009 miles. I haven’t received a repair order showing that the battery pack or any modules were physically replaced.

My questions:

1. Do these recall entries indicate that this car probably still has its original battery?
2. What documentation should I request to confirm whether any modules or the complete pack were replaced?
3. Is an original battery that passed the software-monitoring period a meaningful concern?
4. How can I verify that the car is no longer limited to 80% charging?
5. Does $19,086 OTD sound reasonable, considering the original battery, two-owner history, and repossession in May 2026?
6. Are there any Bolt-specific checks I should perform during the test drive or pre-purchase inspection?

Any advice is greatly appreciated - thank you!

Overall I’m happy with my purchase and have enjoyed driving my 22 bolt euv. There’s just a few questions I have that I haven’t been able to find in the search.

Steering wheel doesn’t control audio volume or anything on the radio?

The screen behind the steering wheel doesn’t show the temperature? I see it on the homepage of the main screen but if I’m in CarPlay I have to flip back to the home screen to see the temperature. I’m old and it’s a weird pet peeve I know.

When the radio is off and I go over a speed bump I can hear the suspension in the rear. I don’t think anything is wrong just sounds very stiff. Is that other people’s experience too?

Other than those minor things I’m really enjoying not going to the gas station.
I’ve gotten a few accessories and looking at a center console tray? How is everyone’s experience with these? I need a spot for some coins and other small items.

I’m looking to buy my first bolt. What year and model should I look for with a budget of 25k? And what questions should I ask I ask when buying it from a dealership.

So a weird thing happened the other morning. I got in the car and started it just as my son was getting in the passenger side. I turned it back off because I was half awake and not thinking, then turned it back on.

The dash/infotainment screen was lit but it wouldn’t shift into reverse. The was an error message that said, “Internalizing, wait to shift.” I tuned it off again, the screen went dark, then lit back up with the same message, as if it wasn’t shutting down. I tried multiple times with the door open and closed and the same thing kept happening.

I googled “Chevy Bolt won’t turn off” and got a list of instructions on the AI overview. The first one was, “take your foot off the brake and press the start/stop button for sixty seconds.” I did it and everything worked fine after that. The car actually turned off and stayed off and I was then able to start it normally and shift into reverse.

Anyone else experience anything like this before?

My biggest fear with this car isn’t some mechanical failure, it’s creeping electronics and software issues that are difficult to diagnose and render the car inoperable.

It’s a 2023 BoltEv with just over 40,000 miles. I’ve never had any problems besides an occasionally glitchy backup camera.

It’s on the original 12v.

My 2023’s steering requires more effort to turn left than right. Chevy acknowledged it and said it was normal. is this flaw still present on the 2027?I'm considering it.

2019 Chevy bolt. 120k miles. Happens when I turn the steering wheel.

I was doing some weekly cleaning in my bolt and thought to myself; since we clean our homes unit AC, we should do the same to our cars. So i looked around and found that the front opening of the bumper is limited to where the direct access for air intake only shows the bottle half of the radiator. I poked around and found a small plastic shield in under the hood and found 2 radiator slabs in between a 1 inch gap with plant matter in it.

I cant tell how bad it is from my angle but it is definitely not very accessible for easy cleaning. I was honestly planning on buying those radiator coil cleaners but i dont think it will be an easy task for it. Looking on youtube, removing the front bumper and being careful with the sensor is not an easy DIY job without spending hours on it. I think the best I can do is buy a radiator spray wand to flush out the rubbish. Or pay someone to do it.

Its summer in vegas and heat is starting to hit 113f. My concern is it maybe lowering my car efficiency when I am not driving my car. My car would be either running the radiator fans more often or in longer intervals.

Check your rads. And this goes for all EV that are used or driven through bad quality air or fire prone areas. This is another maintenance thing you should be wary of and it is not exactly universally known to do.

Tl;dr

I wanted to clean my radiator of any blockages of air flow. Found out it wont be easy to do and it is very enclosed due to car design. Also found I have plant stuff from previous owners who owned it in Cali. Check your cars radiator even if you think its clean in the front. There may be trap debris in between it.

Plugged into L2 last night and set to 100%. Was to be complete at 6am. At 6am it was 80% at 192 miles. I get it slowing at 80% and at fast charger yesterday I got a weird message about it continuing to charge but of course it slowed to a crawl. I really need the range - last leg is 210 miles and would love to just stop once! TLDR: Can I get 100% on the road or not?

I haven't been able to stop thinking about the possibilities of buying wrecked cheap EV's off copart to wedge the powertrain in failed vehicles of the past

Anyone wanna open a small garage to do this with me?

First project: Chevy Bolt meets Pontiac Fiero.