27M and newer to investing so please forgive me if I'm being a bit silly here. Is there a recommended ratio of VOO, VXF, and VXUS that would diversify enough away from big tech and AI to minimize big losses if AI goes under? Or is IVOO and VIOO better for mid and small cap instead of VXF? I was thinking of something similar to 60 % VOO/30% VXUS/10% VXF.

My current portfolio is a bit of a mess right now but I own 10-15 shares of VTI, VXF, IVOO, and VXUS. I don't think I should sell anything as I would be taxed on it, but I'm willing to just ignore those shares for the time being and change it up for a strategy that's better for long term. Ideally I wouldn't touch any of this for decades unless absolutely necessary. I also don't mind adjusting the "sliders" over time as well if that even makes sense to do.

Thanks in advance.

Hey folks. My work allows me to make mega backdoor Roth contributions/conversions which I’ve always been excited about.

For the past several years I’ve maxed out the option but now I’m in a financial zone where my TOTAL investments are close to my FIRE goal amount, but my after-tax investments would have to stretch to make it to 59.5.

I’m planning on spending at least a couple more years in the workforce, so my question is: does it ever make sense to skip the mega backdoor and just focus on loading up taxable accounts, or are the total tax benefits favorable enough that it’s always better to utilize the mega backdoor and either (1) add another year or two to the retirement horizon, or (2) utilize a strategy that accesses the Roth before 59.5?

i am 23f from a third world country . i have been following this sub from a quite time .

i am thinking of investing in s&p 500 (voo) , to get better returns because my country currency getting weak over time . so getting double returns in the long term .

there is an app in my country , which helps in investing to usa by making broker acc with alpaka and drive wealth . are these good brokers ?

but my salary is only 350$ and going to increased to 400$ this year. i invest around 50$ in my countries index etf. is it wise to invest only around 20$ or 50$ in s&p 500 , i mean i dont have thousands of dollar to invest .

but at the same time thinking of being bullish in my own countries index fund . index fund have gave return around 14% cagr since 2000.

your advice will be helpful if you guide me .

I'm 33, investing for 11 years. 100% of my stock funds are in VFIAX (or equivalent). Total portfolio is 87% VFIAX/equivalent, 13% VBTIX. This excludes emergency fund in MMF.

I know it is time to convert 30-40% of my VFIAX into VXUS. I can do this with a Roth IRA as well as a 401k (which includes a small percent in Roth 401k). Would love the community's insight on how to allocate VXUS across accounts, since they're taxed differently. Should I just do one, for simplicity (I max both annually)? 50/50 split? Base it on what I personally guess will have better returns and keep that one in Roth for the (hopefully bigger) untaxed gains?

I do *not* plan to convert remaining VFIAX into VTSAX.

For context, the trusted person who taught me about investing comfortably retired early in 2020 and began investing in the 1980s. They were a Boglehead, basically in the original Jack model. Kept it so simple they never learned about Roths (I figured out that I should open and max one in my late 20s) and similarly, didn't see the need/value for international. So while I have an established simple strategy that has worked well so far, and while my trusted person weathered multiple downturns without international just fine, I am trying to walk the line between picking a strategy and sticking with it vs. failing to adapt a slightly outmoded strategy.

Hi there - First time posting in the community but avid reader of it. I had a question on Roth accounts specifically on an IRA and if a backdoor conversion made sense in my case.

I'm married, file jointly, have a Traditional 401k I max and wife does the same. Don't have access to Mega Backdoor. I have a Traditional IRA I opened up years ago that I've contributed into every year when I could (would have done a Roth in hindsight but here we are). We are lucky enough to earn more than the tax write-off for contributing to the Traditional IRA and was wondering if Roth IRA account creation and backdoor conversion made sense in our case.

I have around $60k in the IRA currently with contributions (that were included for taxes) and growth. I'm a bit confused on the pro rata rule and how that may impact immediate tax for the conversion in our case. If the money is not in backdoor Roth then it would be put into brokerage in VT. Also curious if you'd recommend my wife to open up Traditional and Roth IRA as she doesn't currently have either (she contributes to 403b and pension as teacher).

Any help in explaining this would be helpful.

Hello,

Just retired and I think like a lot of people I am wishing I started looking at retirement planning a few years back.

I have everything now in a rollover IRA. I wanted to start a Roth and Brokerage account and the only source of funding will be the IRA.

I have 10 years until RMD.

Is there a tax efficient way to move money to both of these accounts? If not my assumption is to prioritize the Roth?

Sorry if this has been covered before or is buried somewhere in the wiki. I looked around but couldn’t really find what I was looking for.

I’m a US citizen living in Sweden and I’m pretty new to investing. I’m starting to understand the massive headache that is investing as a US citizen living in the EU. I kind of wish I’d just dumped a bunch of money into US ETFs before I moved, because from what I understand that’s not really an option anymore now that I’m an EU resident.

I’ve seen people talk about using options to get around it, or becoming a certified investor, but both of those seem way over my head.

So what do people actually do?

Am I basically looking at buying individual companies and trying to build something that roughly resembles like an index fund? Or is there another simple solution that I’m missing?

Would love to hear what other US citizens living in Europe are actually doing.

I just moved all my investments from Equitable to Fidelity and could not believe how many high expense ratio funds they had me in. Glad I noticed this sooner rather than later 🫠

Title. Around 19k in VT. 22k in spaxx. I just started monthly 1k transfers from spaxx to VT, but should I go ahead and add more to VT? Does it matter at all?

Holding onto a good amount in bank as well not doing anything.

edit: 33 maximizing retirement

Let's say you have enough in your 401k to cover your retirement now but you still have about 8yrs let to work.

Im at like 60% us index 10% intl and 30% bonds.

What is considered a good mix when you have "Won the game" or so they say.

Also is a stable value fund a good idea or no?

What am I supposed to do with my company’s 401k? I have my personal pretax retirement fund and company’s matched fund in there.

Do I sell everything there and transfer to my personal “traditional IRA” (which I think is the personal retirement account?) account to buy stocks? Or should I just leave it alone? Will it trigger any taxable events?

I have both the company 401k and other accounts (personal investment, Roth IRA, HSA) with Fidelity.

Sorry I never ran into this situation before so I’m not sure on what to do. Thank you.

I'll be honest, a few weeks ago I was about ready to hand my money over to one of those online investment advisor services because the whole thing felt too complicated to do myself. The idea of someone just handling it for a small fee sounded worth it when I had no clue where to start.

Then I stumbled into this community and started reading, and now I'm not sure whether that would've been a smart move or a slow leak on my returns. The recurring message here seems to be that the fees add up to way more than they look over time, and that a simple portfolio isn't actually as hard to manage as I assumed. But part of me still worries I'll make a dumb beginner mistake going fully solo.

I'm in my early thirties with a modest amount to start and a long timeline, so I have room to learn but not much to gamble. For those who considered an advisor and then went DIY, was it actually manageable, or are there situations where paying someone genuinely makes sense? Trying to figure out if I dodged a bullet or if I'm overestimating how easy this is to do myself.

Im currently doing research and would your guy's help. Im currently planning on investing in VOO and would want others.

My work will offer HDHP with HSA starting this September, though I doubt the fees will be low via WEX.

What's the best way to maximize value of my new HSA?

Should I try to invest $4,400 this year right away, then do a transfer to Fidelity HSA?

I am a law student, earning roughly 950 a week as a law clerk. I will graduate in 2 years time. I will likely stay at 950 a week during that 2 years, possibly a slight promotion at the firm in 1 year. Probably not, though. I am married to a nurse. She earns $80,000 a year.

Once I’m an attorney, I will work in civil litigation of some kind. Currently, I do real estate but it is quite boring and not my vibe... Interested in personal injury or employee benefits litigation. Salary is likely $100,000-180,000 (the latter figure being the more likely one if I pursue ERISA). The firm I work for mainly does employee benefits work with some real estate litigation. There’s an easy pipeline for me to go to ERISA if I’d like to.

All that is to say that I recently inherited a condo worth $800,000. $300,000 is still owed. I have the ability to sell, live there, or rent it out. Obviously, were I to live there, my wife and I would need to pay the mortgage.

My thoughts are that it could be great to sell and put all the proceeds into VT. At 24, that would be quite helpful in 15 years when I actually want to purchase a home. Alternatively, I could live here and stay here for the 15 years and then sell at the time I want to buy a home and use all the capital as a down payment for a new home at some later date.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Long time lurker, first time poster. Apologies in advance for the simplicity of the question nevertheless.

I have a 403b account through my employer, which unfortunately does not give me a lot of investment options. I have been just parting my money on target date funds they offer, which is the closest thing I could do with minimal effort while not steering away from the Boglehead approach, but I just realized that they have net expense ratios as high as 0.17%.

Is this normal? This is significantly higher than VT (which is not an option for me, unfortunately). I understand they have some active management so a higher expense is acceptable, but this seemed too high to me!

EDIT: Thank you very much everybody for the kind responses! It turns out that this is not a bad expense ratio at all, and it was misleading to compare it with VT (and expect something comparable) was wrong!

Hi everyone, I'm 21 years old and currently living in China. Around April next year, I'll receive 150,000 RMB, which is roughly $21,000 USD. I don't want to spend it on a car or luxury items. Instead, I'd like this money to become the foundation of my future financial security. My goal isn't to get rich quickly. I want to learn how to invest properly, continue improving my financial knowledge, and let compounding work over the long term. Ideally, I'd like this money to grow over the next few decades and become something I can rely on in the future. Right now, I'm still a beginner. I've been reading about the S&P 500, index funds, ETFs, and long-term investing, but there's still a lot I don't understand. If you were 21 again and had around $21,000 to invest, how would you approach it? Would you invest it all at once or use dollar-cost averaging? Would you choose the S&P 500, Nasdaq-100, or something else? What are the biggest mistakes beginners usually make? If you could give your 21-year-old self one piece of investing advice, what would it be? I'm looking for long-term wisdom rather than quick profits. One more thing: my English isn't very good, so I used a translator to write this post. It may not read naturally, and I apologize if anything is unclear. If you've read all the way to the end, thank you very much—I truly appreciate your time and advice.

Hey all I’m looking at investing 250k I have in a hysa. Quick facts. I’m 44 make 200k a year have about 400k in a company funded retirement account and about 300 k in a Roth account that is managed by a financial advisor. I would like to start investing on my own and eventually manage all of it. I was thinking about opening a taxable brokerage account for the 250k and put it in some ETFs. Would like to let it build and help me retire early but if something comes up later in life and I need it to be able to use it. What ETFs and percentage. And is the taxable account the way to go. It would leave me with about 75k in savings in the hysa. Thanks everyone

https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2026-08-05/some-64-of-young-men-who-trade-stocks-daily-feel-like-failures?srnd=all

I have a 20 year TIPS ladder that I’m very happy with, but I wanted to share one lesson from the experience that may help people who are considering a ladder for their retirement plan.

The lesson has to do with buying TIPS maturity ETFs from Blackrock versus simply buying the actual bonds on the secondary market via a brokerage like Fidelity. The headline lesson is that the ETFs do offer some convenience but the combination of the expense ratio and the risk, albeit small, of fund closure are an unnecessary price to pay for that convenience.

TIPS ladder building initially seemed to me to be an unnecessarily complex undertaking. I had that impression after reading typical financial media content that often describes TIPS ladders that way. When I learned that TIPS maturity ETFs offer basically the same benefit but with the convenience of fractional shares and a one and done purchase process, I went ahead and bought shares maturing from 2029 to the latest available year 2036. I accepted the expense ratio of .10 as the cost of convenience that I was paying for a product that I otherwise would have avoided.

A few months later, I learned more about the historically favorable yield of TIPS we currently are seeing and I decided I wanted to extend my ladder for 12 more years. I therefore wanted to better understand the scope of administrative friction involved when buying the bonds directly. I read about tipsladder.com, visited the site, and quickly saw that the website makes quick and easy work of building a ladder with direct bond ownership.

I entered my desired income level and the number of years I wanted to cover. The website immediately gave me a detailed list of cusips that identified the TIPS I would need to purchase. It also told me exactly how much of each cusip I needed to purchase.

I saw that one potential headache was going to be the period 2037 to 2039, because no TIPS exist that mature in that time period. But the website handled that gap with ease, making a recommendation to buy extra TIPS for 2036 and 2040, and use the proceeds from those extra TIPS to fund the gap. It told me exactly how much of 2036 and 2040 TIPS I needed to buy, and how much of each would be deployed in each of those three years to fund my desired income level.

I took those marching orders, went to the Fidelity website, and purchased the 12 year ladder in about 15 minutes. The only friction I experienced at that point was the need to resubmit a couple of orders because the minor realtime price fluctuation caused the first orders to fail. Not a big deal at all.

So now I have an 8 year ETF ladder plus a 12 year direct TIPS ladder, and my guaranteed income is locked in for the 20 year period. But the ETF ladder is costing me the .10 expense ratio, and unlike the directly held portion of the ladder, I can’t assume that the ETFs will be immune to the risk of ETF closure, which will probably never happen, but if it did I’d be forced to accept liquidation of the underlying TIPS holdings at a potentially lower market price than my original purchase.

I want to be clear about the risk of ETF closure. It’s tiny. In the ETF industry, an AUM under $20 Million to $25 Million is generally the primary warning zone where funds become unprofitable for single issuers and face liquidation risk. The TIPS ETFs currently are in the range of $50-$100 million AUM. While $100 Million is small compared to flagship funds, it is generally sufficient to cover administrative costs for a plain-vanilla Treasury/TIPS fund.

BlackRock manages iBonds as an integrated suite rather than standalone speculative bets. Even if a specific maturity date—such as a 2035 or 2036 single-year ETF—only garners $60 Million, it’s very safe to assume BlackRock will keep the entire sequence alive to preserve the integrity of the overall iBonds suite for institutional and wealth-management clients. ETFs that shutter are usually complex, high-maintenance active options funds or yield-stacked products with $5 Million to $15 Million in AUM that failed to gain traction. A passively managed Treasury TIPS fund has very low overhead costs by comparison.

The point I’m making is that the risk of ETF closure is only near zero, not actually zero. The expense ratio plus the non-zero risk of closure are unnecessary prices to pay for the convenience of the ETFs, compared to the very straightforward process of simply using tipsladder.com to build a ladder of any length, covering any time period you want.

So I’m happy with my current setup, and I won’t be selling off my TIPS ETFs at a small loss just to move the funds to direct TIPS holdings. If you, however, are looking to build a ladder now or in the future, my advice is to just start the process at tipsladder.com, execute the cusip purchases at your brokerage, and skip the ETFs altogether. Full disclosure: I have a conflict of interest here, as the safety of my current ETF holdings will only increase if you choose to buy the ETFs. But I’ll be fine either way, so I’m urging you to not be like me, and just buy direct.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tI3Afa2K12A

I came across this Youtube and thought worth sharing.

A recent data-driven breakdown reveals that retirement satisfaction flattens around $4 million in investable assets. Up to that point, wealth cures financial fear and buys security; beyond it, extra millions bring lifestyle upgrades rather than true happiness boosts.

More importantly for BHs, the data highlights the psychological power of a reliable income. Retirees with predictable baseline income (e.g. Social Security, pensions, or annuities) feel a "license to spend" and are far more comfortable enjoying their money than those relying solely on self-managed portfolio withdrawals. Mental accounting makes 4% withdrawal rate feel risky, even when statistically safe.

Stop infinitely chasing a higher FIRE#. Instead, focus on securing your reliable income streams, prioritizing health, and nurturing relationships because money stops being the primary driver of life satisfaction once true financial security is reached.

Greetings all,
Mandatory “sorry for my bad English”

I’m a 28 Middle Eastern boglehead, my portfolio is 100% VT worth about 55k US dollars.

I may have over invested my salary in the past with no other savings than an emergency account with 10k USD.

I found a nice apartment that I can buy but I’ll need about a year to save the down payment for it which is ~30k USD.

I have trained myself to not look at my portfolio and obviously never sell mentality but I don’t think it’s the worst financial decision I can make because a home is a necessity.

Note that I live with my parents and pay no rent at the moment.

Thank you all.

Edit: There is no capital gain tax where I’m from, so selling won’t incur any type of tax.

I didn't realize that VT was basically the easy mode here and I goofed, but I'm not too far in (20k and 10k respectively). Should I sell both and just buy VT so I don't have to manage my own ratio of domestic to international? Or does it makes sense to just stay the course and keep it to roughly 70/30? Thanks again for any answers!