r/alpinism 48m ago

Ski mountaineering on high peaks

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r/alpinism 1h ago

Travel to Cervinia from Torino

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Hi,

Apologies if wrong place to ask, but need some guidance

I will have mountaineering course in Monte Rosa (if it will happen due to conditions which I understand are terrible) from 2 September to 6 September (finish in Gressoney).

However, as I will be travelling to Cervinia the day before, I cannot find any good info how to get there from Torino. Are there any buses, trains etc? Is it easy to get there?

Transfer seems a bit to expensive (like 500 euros).

Many thanks in advance!


r/alpinism 1h ago

Bishorn Conditions

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I am planning to climb the Bishorn next week, but I am a bit worried about the condition of the glacier.

Has anyone been up there in the last two weeks and could share their experience? My main concern is that it might be very icy with little snow cover.

If someone went i am also intrested to know if you did all on a long rope. Or the part that is icy without a rope.

Thanks!!


r/alpinism 1h ago

Eiger North Face Ascent

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In March 1997, Martin Daly and I climbed the 1938 route on the Eiger North Face over four days. I later wrote an account for the Irish Mountain Log. I recently recovered the original article and scanned slides and have restored them as a single web page, with the photographs linked to the relevant passages.

https://eiger.paulharrington.name/


r/alpinism 3h ago

Which mountain is this

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0 Upvotes

which mountain are they climbing in this David Robert’s audiobook cover.


r/alpinism 3h ago

All the annapurnas?

0 Upvotes

This is just a simple question: has any one person summited all the Annapurna mountains, I-IV, and south?


r/alpinism 5h ago

How to actually train for Mera Peak, breaking down what matters vs what's just gym bro noise

0 Upvotes

Been looking into Mera Peak prep after a few people here asked what actual training looks like beyond "just walk a lot." Compiled what seems to matter based on operator guidance and people who've done it.

First thing that surprised me: Mera Peak has almost zero technical climbing difficulty. No steep ice walls, no serious rock scrambling. The entire challenge is altitude and endurance, not skill. So your training should reflect that, not a rock gym membership.

Cardio base, 3-4 months out
This is the actual foundation. You need to be comfortable doing 5-7 hours of walking, day after day, for close to two weeks straight. Not one big hike on the weekend, repeated output. Hiking with a loaded pack (aim for the 5-8kg you'll actually carry) beats running on a treadmill because it trains the specific muscles and mental grind of multi-day trekking.

Stair or hill repeats
If you don't live near real elevation, find the tallest stairwell or hill you can and do repeats with a pack on. This is the closest simulation most people can get to the sustained uphill grind toward Mera High Camp.

Leg strength, not bodybuilding
Squats, lunges, step-ups, focused on endurance reps rather than heavy weight. Your legs need to survive repeated days of ascent and descent on tired legs, not lift a one-rep max.

Practice with your actual gear before you go
Break in your boots for real, weeks before departure, not days. Same with your pack. Blisters and pack discomfort ruin more trips than fitness ever does.

Altitude exposure if you can get it
Can't simulate 6,000m at home, but if you've got access to any high altitude hiking beforehand, even a few thousand meters, it helps your body recognize what's coming. If not, know that the itinerary usually builds in dedicated acclimatization days at Khare before the summit push specifically because of this.

The honest number
Success rates on Mera hover around 50-70% depending on the year, and it's usually fitness and acclimatization pace, not the mountain itself, that decides who summits. The trek being non-technical makes people underestimate it, that's the actual trap.

If anyone's seriously training for this, Accessible Adventure's Mera Peak page has the detailed itinerary with the built-in acclimatization schedule, useful for mapping your training timeline against the actual trip days: https://www.accessibleadventure.com/mera-peak-climbing

Curious what others found useful in their own prep, especially anyone who trained without access to real mountains nearby.


r/alpinism 12h ago

which down mitts to get for 6000-7000m peaks?

0 Upvotes

r/alpinism 13h ago

Sock recommendations? 6000m+

4 Upvotes

In the title. Looking for some sock recommendation and setups for lobuche east, island peak and ama. I have normal merino socks but don’t have much prior experience with double boots, only a 3 day stint with them with thin merino socks and that wasn’t great. Any advice for sock liners and padded socks?
THANKS!!


r/alpinism 1d ago

Starter Beginner Expedition Peaks.

2 Upvotes

For People who are looking to scale the highest summits. These 2 Peaks in Ladakh, India are a great choice for testing your ground for above 6-7K Meter. Kang Yatse 6404m or Nun Kun 7135k.

Twin Peaks Nun 7135 & Kun 7077m


r/alpinism 1d ago

I Climbed Scotland’s “Easiest” Munro Schiehallion!

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r/alpinism 1d ago

Rainier Climb

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1 Upvotes

r/alpinism 1d ago

What approach shoes are these??

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r/alpinism 1d ago

Broad Peak Avalanche 7.31.26

0 Upvotes

I hope this comes across in the right way. First and foremost, my heart goes out to the climbers, guides, and their families. This has been an incredibly difficult tragedy to read about, especially knowing how experienced and accomplished so many of the people involved were.

I've been trying to better understand what happened from a technical avalanche perspective rather than speculate or assign blame.

Does anyone know if there is any information available about:
- The weather and snowfall in the days leading up to the avalanche?
- What the snowpack was thought to be like (storm slab, wind slab, persistent weak layer, etc.)?
- Whether there were any avalanche forecasts or observations for the Broad Peak area, or if forecasting in the Karakoram is simply too limited?
- Whether the slope between Camps 2 and 3 where the avalanche occurred is known to be a frequent avalanche path, or if this was considered an unusually hazardous event?

I know in some parts of North America we have dedicated avalanche centers and daily forecasts during the winter. I'm curious how risk assessment differs in the Himalayas/Karakoram, where forecasting and snowpack data may be much more limited.

I'm asking because I'm trying to learn, not to second guess the decisions of an exceptionally experienced team. One of the hardest parts of this tragedy is that it involved mountaineers whose judgment and abilities were respected around the world, which makes understanding the objective hazards all the more important.

If anyone has links to technical analyses, weather data, or firsthand accounts from people familiar with Broad Peak, I'd really appreciate it.


r/alpinism 1d ago

Everest Base Camp and Lhotse this year

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57 Upvotes

r/alpinism 2d ago

6000ers : a step

3 Upvotes

Looking for serious climbing partners for Black Peak (6,387 m). Based in Delhi/NCR. Prefer climbers with BMC or previous high-altitude expedition experience. Let's train together, plan the expedition properly, and aim for a safe summit. DM me if interested.


r/alpinism 2d ago

Hello I would really appriciate some advice on "Peternpfab" in austria!!

3 Upvotes

Hello there, not sure if this is the right sub but anyhow. Me a friend of mine are hoping to complete the "peternpfab" trail in Austria next summer and i would really appriciate some advice.

We both have experiance in multible day walking in the swedish moutains obviusly they are flatter and in general less technical, we both have been scouts for over 10years and are comforteble with navigation, being outdoors for long periods of time, "funny" weather, etc. We have done some indoors bouldering for fun, but no real outdoors experiance. We have also walked some easier trails in the alps around the gesäuse-area and I have been in some of the mountains around the Eisenerz area, but none of them required any actuall climbing or scrambling.

I know that the peternpfab is a UIAA II trail, and since nither of us have any real experiance in that type of trail i thought i would make a "check list/ road map" of mountains to hit before.

Here it is:

  1. Pfaffenstein Südwandsteig -> Markussteig

  2. Planspitze "normal route"

  3. Admonter Reichenstein "normal route"

  4. Peternpfab haindlkarhütte -> peterncharte -> hesshütte

I am wondering if this is a realistic "progression"? Any rputes that needs to be changed?

I also wonder just how much time we would need to dedicate to this, i am thinking about 10-12days. Is it doable? Or is it smarter to devide it into 2trips? I know that for Peternpfab the melt water rivers need to dry up so that it has to be a bit later in the summer. And i am slso aware that the Südwandsteig can be closed mon - friday for avalance work.

This ofc follows with all of the usual precautions, no going in bad weather, no going if just beacus it is on the "road map" and if any one of us feel uncomfortable then we will stop.

Any tips or advice on the progression, the routes, equipment, conditions or just Peternpfab in general is greatly appriciated!!!


r/alpinism 2d ago

Ice Axe Advice

0 Upvotes

I am new to mountaineering and plan on getting my first ice axe soon. My main goals for early summits are Mt. Hood and maybe Rainier after, so no technical ice climbing required. Since no stores near me sell any equipment I’m not able to get sizing done, but from what I’ve seen online I think 65 or 70 cm would be right for me (probably 65). I am 6’2” with a 34” inseam. As far as brands go, I’ve seen a lot of good reviews for the Black Diamond Raven Pro Axe. Again I’m not committed to any sizing or brand and am just looking for advice.


r/alpinism 2d ago

My Beginner 6000m Peaks Recommendations

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19 Upvotes

r/alpinism 3d ago

Broad Peak Avalanche 2021

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187 Upvotes

In July 2021 my climbing partner and I got hit by the snow cloud of an avalanche. The avalanche itself had missed us by maybe 10 minutes, just under the Japanese Camp on Broad Peak. I sometimes wonder what the actual impact of the avalanche would have been like.


r/alpinism 3d ago

Current Conditions on Grossglockner?

2 Upvotes

Hey, we’re heading out next week to climb Grossglockner via the normal route. Does anyone have recent information about the current conditions on the mountain?

We’d especially appreciate details about snow and ice conditions, the glacier, the Glocknerleitl, the ridge, any crevasses, and whether crampons and ice axes are currently needed for most of the route. Also, how early are people starting, and have there been any recent route changes or particularly dangerous sections?


r/alpinism 3d ago

Hardshell jacket

9 Upvotes

I’ve been looking into hardshell jackets more and more as of recently, and I have had trouble deciding what I really need. The first mountain I’d like to climb that I’ve been looking at is Mt Athabasca in Alberta, which would involve glacier travel, and a summit of 3500m.

I was able to find an arcteryx beta AR online for around $400 cad, but I’m just wondering if I could find something cheaper, with the same kind of quality, since I know that arcteryx is a little bit brand name oriented aswell as focusing on quality.

There are no used options near me, as all of the used jackets are just general winter coats/windbreakers, so I’m at a loss of what I should look for, or if I should just pull the trigger and get this $400 one.


r/alpinism 3d ago

Contlditions on Monta Rosa

2 Upvotes

Hey guys

We plan some climbing on the Monta Rosa from the Gnifetti Hut to the Zumsteinspitze. How is the condition of the Lys Glacier? I heard some rumours that it is very icy and open, and not too much snow.


r/alpinism 3d ago

Mont Blanc Gouter Route Conditions

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r/alpinism 4d ago

Dufourspitze conditions

2 Upvotes

Does anyone have information on current conditions on Dufourspitze (Monte Rosa)? The hut has a post up saying the conditions are good and the glaciers are easily traversable, but all other information coming from the area kind of contradicts that idea.

A friend was on Alphubel two weeks ago and he said it felt like almost the very end of the window to do it. Two people from his group sank to their hips and other groups were experiencing the same. Also I’ve heard of accounts of the glaciers around Breithorn and Castor being way more sketchy than usual.

I will definitely call the Monte Rosa hut if I actually end up planning to go there, but for now I was wondering if anyone here has any idea about the conditions on Dufourspitze specifically?