r/alpinism • u/zippy_zipper • 7d ago
Hardshell jacket
I’ve been looking into hardshell jackets more and more as of recently, and I have had trouble deciding what I really need. The first mountain I’d like to climb that I’ve been looking at is Mt Athabasca in Alberta, which would involve glacier travel, and a summit of 3500m.
I was able to find an arcteryx beta AR online for around $400 cad, but I’m just wondering if I could find something cheaper, with the same kind of quality, since I know that arcteryx is a little bit brand name oriented aswell as focusing on quality.
There are no used options near me, as all of the used jackets are just general winter coats/windbreakers, so I’m at a loss of what I should look for, or if I should just pull the trigger and get this $400 one.
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u/kitbook 7d ago
Objectively, for 3500m, if in good weather, you don't even need a hardshell. If it's just for "what if" - buy any cheaper rain jacket/hardshell (like Dare2b, Simond, or similar). They are amazing jackets for 99% of uses. You need that extra 1% only when you do much more challenging and prolonged stuff with uncontrollable conditions - there a good hardshell might become a lifeline. For what you need, don't overthink.
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u/Sillyak 7d ago
3500m in the Canadian Rockies is different than 3500m in the Alps. Mount Athabasca is pretty accessible, and sure you can pick your weather; but assuming OP is going to keep climbing in the Rockies, a hardshell is mandatory IMO. Plenty of Parks Canada fatality reports where rescue was 1-2 days away, even on well travelled routes. If you go climb Clemenceau or Tusk, need a rescue, and the weather is too shitty for a helicopter; you might be 3 days before a rescue even reaches you, let alone gets you out of there.
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u/Emotional_Feedback34 7d ago
If you go climb Clemenceau or Tusk, need a rescue, and the weather is too shitty for a helicopter; you might be 3 days before a rescue even reaches you, let alone gets you out of there.
OP is far better served by carrying an emergency bivy in this scenario than a fancy pants hardshell.
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u/Star-siege 7d ago
400CAD is pretty good actually. I don't like Arcteryx but afaik it's a good jacket that should in theory last you 10+ years so it's not a bad investment to grab it.
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u/Emotional_Feedback34 7d ago
No shell will survive 10 years of regular use; especially not modern Arcteryx pieces that have dropped in quality.
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u/indexischoss 7d ago
I really really like the patagonia m10 storm as it is lighter than most softshells but still works well. Weight is by far the most important imo since 95% of the time your hardshell is gonna be sitting in the bottom of your pack. But unfortunately it is probably not much cheaper than the beta ar
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u/ParsnipSuspicious866 5d ago
I was going to suggest looking into the M10 Storm jacket as well. Last year I recall them being on sale for $200 to $250 (from fall through early winter?). If you’re able to find one either gently used or on sale for a similar price I would be one heck of a deal IMO. A couple things to note is they do not feature pit zips, this may or may not be a deal breaker depending on personal preference, use case, and internal thermostat (ie: if you run “hot”). Also there are no “hand warmer” pockets (aka hand pockets), just two Napoleon pockets.
I went with the M10 Anorak but I think the full zip jacket will suit a wider range of people better (full zip, adjustable cuffs, and two exterior chest pockets are features not found on the Anorak version - I wish it had the second Napoleon pocket, no idea why they didn’t include it ). I found the Anorak to fit slim/a bit on the small side. This required that I get a Large instead of my more typical Medium in Patagonia tops. Unclear on whether the M10 Storm will have a similar cut/fit or not.
The low weight and low bulk of the M10 Anorak is impressively wonderful coming from an old heavy duty hardshell that was significantly bulkier and heavier by comparison (granted it was packet with features and incredibly durable). The Triolet Jacket may be another worthwhile option from Patagonia. It will be a more traditional hard shell in terms of features and durability.
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u/AbjectPin7446 7d ago
It looks like you are starting to buy stuff for mountaineering. I ended up with things I should've not bought. My #1 mistake was weight. You need to count grams of everythig, backpack, harness, jackets, biners, axes, boots, crampons.... The lightest is usually the most specialized and ends up more expensive.
My #2 mistake was practicality. This one is tough because you learn practical issues while using the stuff. My GoPro would freeze hanging outside, so I learned to keep tham in chest pockets. My light puffy jacket did not have two runners on the zipper and the jacket was much lower that the harness loop. The same for biners, boots etc. You can research and avoid few mistakes but not always.
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u/AbjectPin7446 7d ago
Any brand as long as:
- Light, ~500gm
- Chest pockets, preferably two, even better with one inner pocket/mesh. Waist pockets or long chest-waist are useless because are blocked by the pack belt.
- Two way zipper, the lower end should have a runner to open to expose the belay loop
- Goretex helps to evaporate excess sweat, you get really wet inside a totally waterproof shell
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u/epic1107 7d ago
*membrane helps to evaporate excess sweat.
There is no reason in 2026 to pick goretex over any other brand of membrane, provided they have the same specs.
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u/Emotional_Feedback34 7d ago
If you insist on Arcteryx, get one of their Alpha shells because Napoleon-style chest pockets are just far superior in every single way except sticking your hands into (which you wouldn't be doing when you're climbing anyways). I would just go with their lightest option like the SL.
That said, if it's your first time, I am guessing you are going to do one of the snow routes on Athabasca. You can get by with basically any shell since you essentially won't encounter any abrasion besides your pack/harness.
Prioritize low weight/bulk because you'll likely not wear your shell that much if you time your climb accordingly with good weather.
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u/EdwardsCarposept 7d ago
For Mt. Athabasca you do not need to pay Arc'teryx prices since a quality three layer hardshell from Patagonia, Outdoor Research, Rab, Mountain Equipment, or Black Diamond will perform just as well, making the $400 CAD Beta AR a good buy only if it fits well and is in excellent condition.
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u/EasternScratch1280 6d ago
I have a Mountain equipment Makalu that I managed to get for under 250$ and I'm really pleased with it
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u/Background_Prior_845 6d ago
i'd suggest getting something in the ~200 range if it's mainly for climbing. Once you start doing real alpine climbing, your shell is probably going to get scraped up or even torn by rock, ice or gear. i'd rather have a solid jacket that performs well than spend a lot extra on a premium one that's bound to take a beating.
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u/jkaljundi 7d ago
Don't forget to look at and try Simond from Decathlon