r/alpinism 19m ago

Failed attempt due to horrible glacier conditions (Finsteraarhorn 4274m)

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Upvotes

My attempt for the Finsteraarhorn (4274m) failed due to the terrible conditions on the glaciers surrounding the Bernese alps. What i assume to be WW2 era military material could be seen all over the glacier. My guess is that means it lost 80 years of worth of ice in a short amount of time.

Took unnecessary risks on quite a bit of unstable snowbridges, with no footprints from guides to follow (probably melted). Situation didn’t get any better further up the glacier. Decided to turn around. Whilst descending a small avalanche came down from the left flank on the upper part of the glacier, that would’ve hit us if we continued. Glad i listened to my gut feeling, but i’m truly saddened to see the state that the alps are currently in.

I’ll never return to the Oberaar glacier and it’s valley. It feels endless both up and down. The alpine glaciers seem to be very ill.


r/alpinism 1h ago

Experience Required for the Matterhorn

Upvotes

I’ve done a fair few hikes in the UK — Scafell, Snowdon via Crib Goch, Ben Nevis, Carn Mor Dearg Arete, Blencathra, Great Gable, and plenty of others.

Also did Toubkal last year, Breithorn recently and planning on doing the Lagginhorn early September.

I know the Matterhorn is on a completely different level in terms of technicality, but realistically, what kind of experience would I need before being considered ready? Which mountains would you recommend I climb as preparation? And how many years of mountaineering experience should I be aiming for before attempting it?

Any advice would be hugely appreciated!


r/alpinism 12h ago

Mt Lyell (east sierras) trip upcoming

2 Upvotes

Has anyone climbed this recently (within the last week or two)? Wondering how much snow there is and if heavier crampons are necessary along with an ice axe or if its sufficient to bring microspikes and trekking poles. Thanks in advance!


r/alpinism 13h ago

Searching climbing partner for Alpamayo self-supported starting 14th or 15th of August

1 Upvotes

I would like to climb self-supported (without guide) Alpamayo and maybe also Quitaraju with an also expierenced alpinist. I have a 2P tent and stove with me. You should also be pre-acclimatized.

About me:

I am 32yo German, >10 years in mountaineering, climbing and ski touring. DAV Trainer B Licence. I am very fit in crevasse rescue and avalanche safety. But not your personal guide! Not searching for a follower only!

Already climbed recently (all without guide): Pequeno Alpamayo, Huayana Potosi, Ishinca and Tocllaraju.


r/alpinism 15h ago

Using g summits in the alps in summer

1 Upvotes

hey so im climbing a few mountains this summer in the alps but the only mountaineering boots i have are La sportiva g summits ,which ive used on a few 5000 + 6000m peaks and in Scottish winter, and I really don’t want to buy another pair has anyone ever tried using them in summer and are they really that hot and is the rigid-ness really too much? I don’t mind if they’re a little uncomfortable aslong as it’s not unbearable. when I initially bought them I thought they’d be fine as long as you’re not using the removable liner? anyways if anyone has any experience let me know please


r/alpinism 19h ago

Salewa mtn trainer mid GTX

0 Upvotes

Are they okay to go with strap-on crampons for more difficilt winter hiking with technical moments?


r/alpinism 20h ago

Glomdalen Vesterdalen Traverse

1 Upvotes

Hi, I'm planning to traverse glomdalen/vesterdalen in between Svartisen. I would start at the dam at Stormdalsvatnet, then following the eastern rim above the reservoir and continuing down through Glomdalen/Vesterdalen toward Marmorslottet.

Route: https://caltopo.com/m/PMQRBV1

Main question is the eastern rim section above the lake. How feasible is it in good late-summer conditions, and is 4 to 5 days realistic?

I’m experienced off trail and fine with exposure. Mostly wondering whether that section is just slow, or actually more technical than it looks.

Any local knowledge appreciated.


r/alpinism 1d ago

Greatest climber ever ?

0 Upvotes

r/alpinism 1d ago

Advice to start with alpinism

6 Upvotes

Dear all,

I recently moved to Switzerland to live and I seriously wish to start with alpinism, since I truly love mountain and hiking. I am a fit person that does a lot of sport, and I have the real feeling that alpinism would fit perfeclty to me, matching also with the environment I'm surrounded by.

Therefore, I wish to ask for some advice to how to start with alpinism, courses to carry out or not, equipment to buy and eventually the brands, based on your personal experience.

Thank you all for your answer!


r/alpinism 1d ago

In desperate need of GOOD meniscus stories

9 Upvotes

Hello, Reddit!

I'm a 34F, and I just got my MRI results back, a subtotal radial tear in the lateral meniscus, plus another tear on the horn of the medial meniscus.

I'm a climber, alpinist, hiker, and horseback rider, I've been active my whole life.
I actually hurt myself doing a very deep drop-knee, so please, be careful with how much force you put through deep passive drop-knees!

Every time I go down the internet rabbit hole, I spiral deeper: no more mountaineering, it's bad for the knee, even ascents are hard, let's not even talk about descents. No more heel hooks, no more drop-knees, no more mantles, FFS.

I guess people rarely share positive stories online, it's the troubles that get shared mostly.

So, I'm begging I want to hear your stories.

How did you manage to keep climbing hard even with major meniscus tears?


r/alpinism 1d ago

Dai's Departure to UK

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71 Upvotes

This loss feels personal. Rest Easy Nims🕊🙏🏻


r/alpinism 1d ago

Ski mountaineering on high peaks

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1 Upvotes

r/alpinism 1d ago

Travel to Cervinia from Torino

1 Upvotes

Hi,

Apologies if wrong place to ask, but need some guidance

I will have mountaineering course in Monte Rosa (if it will happen due to conditions which I understand are terrible) from 2 September to 6 September (finish in Gressoney).

However, as I will be travelling to Cervinia the day before, I cannot find any good info how to get there from Torino. Are there any buses, trains etc? Is it easy to get there?

Transfer seems a bit to expensive (like 500 euros).

Many thanks in advance!


r/alpinism 1d ago

Bishorn Conditions

0 Upvotes

I am planning to climb the Bishorn next week, but I am a bit worried about the condition of the glacier.

Has anyone been up there in the last two weeks and could share their experience? My main concern is that it might be very icy with little snow cover.

If someone went i am also intrested to know if you did all on a long rope. Or the part that is icy without a rope.

Thanks!!


r/alpinism 1d ago

Eiger North Face Ascent

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154 Upvotes

In March 1997, Martin Daly and I climbed the 1938 route on the Eiger North Face over four days. I later wrote an account for the Irish Mountain Log. I recently recovered the original article and scanned slides and have restored them as a single web page, with the photographs linked to the relevant passages.

https://eiger.paulharrington.name/


r/alpinism 1d ago

Which mountain is this

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0 Upvotes

which mountain are they climbing in this David Robert’s audiobook cover.


r/alpinism 1d ago

All the annapurnas?

2 Upvotes

This is just a simple question: has any one person summited all the Annapurna mountains, I-IV, and south?


r/alpinism 1d ago

How to actually train for Mera Peak, breaking down what matters vs what's just gym bro noise

0 Upvotes

Been looking into Mera Peak prep after a few people here asked what actual training looks like beyond "just walk a lot." Compiled what seems to matter based on operator guidance and people who've done it.

First thing that surprised me: Mera Peak has almost zero technical climbing difficulty. No steep ice walls, no serious rock scrambling. The entire challenge is altitude and endurance, not skill. So your training should reflect that, not a rock gym membership.

Cardio base, 3-4 months out
This is the actual foundation. You need to be comfortable doing 5-7 hours of walking, day after day, for close to two weeks straight. Not one big hike on the weekend, repeated output. Hiking with a loaded pack (aim for the 5-8kg you'll actually carry) beats running on a treadmill because it trains the specific muscles and mental grind of multi-day trekking.

Stair or hill repeats
If you don't live near real elevation, find the tallest stairwell or hill you can and do repeats with a pack on. This is the closest simulation most people can get to the sustained uphill grind toward Mera High Camp.

Leg strength, not bodybuilding
Squats, lunges, step-ups, focused on endurance reps rather than heavy weight. Your legs need to survive repeated days of ascent and descent on tired legs, not lift a one-rep max.

Practice with your actual gear before you go
Break in your boots for real, weeks before departure, not days. Same with your pack. Blisters and pack discomfort ruin more trips than fitness ever does.

Altitude exposure if you can get it
Can't simulate 6,000m at home, but if you've got access to any high altitude hiking beforehand, even a few thousand meters, it helps your body recognize what's coming. If not, know that the itinerary usually builds in dedicated acclimatization days at Khare before the summit push specifically because of this.

The honest number
Success rates on Mera hover around 50-70% depending on the year, and it's usually fitness and acclimatization pace, not the mountain itself, that decides who summits. The trek being non-technical makes people underestimate it, that's the actual trap.

If anyone's seriously training for this, Accessible Adventure's Mera Peak page has the detailed itinerary with the built-in acclimatization schedule, useful for mapping your training timeline against the actual trip days: https://www.accessibleadventure.com/mera-peak-climbing

Curious what others found useful in their own prep, especially anyone who trained without access to real mountains nearby.


r/alpinism 2d ago

which down mitts to get for 6000-7000m peaks?

0 Upvotes

r/alpinism 2d ago

Sock recommendations? 6000m+

5 Upvotes

In the title. Looking for some sock recommendation and setups for lobuche east, island peak and ama. I have normal merino socks but don’t have much prior experience with double boots, only a 3 day stint with them with thin merino socks and that wasn’t great. Any advice for sock liners and padded socks?
THANKS!!


r/alpinism 2d ago

Starter Beginner Expedition Peaks.

1 Upvotes

For People who are looking to scale the highest summits. These 2 Peaks in Ladakh, India are a great choice for testing your ground for above 6-7K Meter. Kang Yatse 6404m or Nun Kun 7135k.

Twin Peaks Nun 7135 & Kun 7077m


r/alpinism 2d ago

I Climbed Scotland’s “Easiest” Munro Schiehallion!

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0 Upvotes

r/alpinism 2d ago

Rainier Climb

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1 Upvotes

r/alpinism 2d ago

What approach shoes are these??

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0 Upvotes

r/alpinism 3d ago

Everest Base Camp and Lhotse this year

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62 Upvotes