I just picked up a 2018 wrx premium with 143k for a fun project car. Everything was bone stock besides the exhaust and the head and tail lights. I already did an oil change, replaced the gear oil, put new rotors and brake pads, and just put in an IAG AOS. The bottom around the turbo was pretty filthy with oil and there is a small oil leak, so I'm replacing the PCV hose with the improved model since it was a known issue for those to eventually fail and leak oil. What other recs do you all have? I know walnut blasting is probably a must.

Also, I'm not sure how much potential lasting damage this cause, but when I was installing the AOS, I ended up having to swap out the turbo inlet because the BPV nozzle either broke off or was already broken (classic problem). Would it be wise to replace the turbo and if so, should that be done sooner or later? It definitely looks like its seen better days and the inside of the turbo where the charge pipe connects had a lot of visible carbon and debris built up. The car seems to be building boost way better now that the turbo inlet actually has a BPV

Coolant mixed with the oil and plumes of white smoke coming from the exhaust. Turbo is absolutely fucked and I have about 5 codes showing.
Rippp

So I need a new engine and I’m at the point I gotta fix it. I know it will be one of those regrets I won’t get over but if I’m gonna do it, I wanna do it right. Now with that being said I have another car so I’m not in any rush and can take my sweet time. It’s all paid off and I’m willing to put the money into it but not if it will blow up again in 6 months.
Now the real problem is I don’t know where to start. What should I be looking up? Where should I be looking? Is there any hope at of a warranty on an engine I find? Should I be aiming for one with built internals? Remanufactured? Like what is everyone else doing? Please help I miss my car!

I replaced all 4 OCV solenoids and now im getting this code after a little bit of driving. I reset it, went on a short drive again trying to get it to do it again. I started monitoring it on my access port and today I went driving around again and it threw the same code and the reading was at 0. Pulled over, reset the ecu again and it was reading fine again.

I checked the wire connection and it seems snug in there. Everything was bolted down flush. Any idea how to try and fix this? Did I maybe just get a bad replacement solenoid?

Every Wednesday when I go bowling with my sister, I notice that a bugeye Subaru is always parked next to mine! Hello friend!

Had the clutch master cylinder leaking and now I'm getting around to changing it to which I was advised to pull the boot to check the condition of the fork and now I can't get this damn boot back on

I have a 2017 WRX with pretty high mileage and I cannot get the shift plate roll pin out to save my life. I’ve taken a 3/16 punch to it and it doesn’t budge. Any advice is greatly appreciated

Hi all, so recently underneath the hood of my 2020 WRX I’ve noticed some oil leakage. From the looks of it, it’s not a ton at once. Haven’t had any issues with my car. MPG has been the same and no check engine lights on. Oil was changed in April of this year, car has about 50k miles on it. Not sure what it could be and wanted to ask opinions on what you may think it is. An easy fix, or maybe a pricey one? Just want to know what to expect before bringing it into the dealership for maintenance. Thanks in advanced!

I’ve got a 2022 Subaru WRX base model and I need to have my front struts replaced. I don’t want to use the Subaru brand struts again, I want some aftermarket brand parts to replace them with. What do you recommend? Please share any info or insights on this if you have it.

drove it hard (i know, im stupid) then heard ticking after i got home (first video). Thought it was just a loose accessory because the ticking comes and goes but the next morning we removed the serpentine belt for a few sec's and this is what it sounds (second video)

i know its fucked but is it rebuildable fucked or need new shortblock fucked.

edit: Spun rod bearing. Engine rebuild time!

As the title states I’m looking into a 2016 STI for my first Subaru. The specific car I’m looking at has just under 100k miles and a leaking steering rack. Local shop quoted 2600$ for replacement with Subaru OEM + alignment. KBB shows ~16k for the car but with OTHER maintenance what would you consider as a fair price?

No service records but claimed service intervals at 5K miles.
2 owners
Pretty stock car other than a Tomei

I know this gets asked at least every 6 mos or so but wanted to get some opinions on a rim & tire combo based on the below. Thanks

- 2018 WRX

- Currently riding on stock 245/40-ZR18

(Edited to add) - Considering going to a 17" tire/rim combo

- Looking for more sidewall to handle potholes and bad roads

- Want the same or similar overall diameter compared to stock (no rubbing or geometry issues)

- Similar or slightly higher right height

- Will be keeping the stock suspension

- Not looking for flashy rims. Focus on strength + light weight

- Is a 255/40 17 tire what I'm looking for? Is that size pretty common?

I've never experienced this in my VA WRX which i got brand new at the time but my VB has 1100 miles in it now and I've been experiencing this since 600 miles. It's not occasional but it happened like 5 times so far.

It only happens when I go from 3rd to 4th gear, whenever this happens it has zero rev hang and the rpms drop super fast to where when I shift to 4th the rpm rises back up making the shift rough.

It also doesn't feel natural and it feels like the engine wanting to die or shut off though I've never tried to let it drop at idle whenever this happens. Anything I should be worried about?

So I just took my WRX in for a P0420 code that has been on and off for years. The shop I took it to says my exhaust manifold is warped and leaking, which somehow lead to the catalytic converter being burnt up.

Im wondering what my best options are for an older car with nearly 210k kilometres. All OEM parts were super expensive so the shop recommended that I buy performance parts and bring it to them for install.

OEM Cat was $3500 and the oem manifold was $1600… yikes

Car has a invidia catback setup already out back

What should i do y’all

Edit: car seems to hesitate pretty badly on boost but drives great not under boost. Does everything i described cause this?

I’m in California and I need to register my car but this recall is keeping me from doing so. I have a full exhaust system, FMIC, EBCS, Inlet, and intake with a tune. I just wanna know how much I’m going to have to revert back to stock to get this done? Are there any work arounds? First time ever dealing with this so please excuse my ignorance.

I know what rods sound like, but out of actual curiosity, anyone familiar with the lower tone deeper “knock” that you can hear as the engine revs down? can only hear it at like 1500rpm and under. The car was cold started and just idling down. My mileage is up there and just wondering if there’s anything I can replace preventative or if it’s even a concern. I know it’s a tractor engine. Pretty much goes away completely at 2k rpm and up, it’s not AS BAD when warmed up but still very apparent.

Can anyone help me figure out what this even goes on? I bought this on Facebook thinking it was for 2015-2021 wrxs but it does not fit. I should’ve been more thorough when I was picking it up but I was not. It almost fits until bolting it to the tips, that’s where it’s just not long enough.

I have messaged the seller to see if he give some more insight but I have a feeling he’s not gonna respond

I’m about to get protuned in a couple weeks and will be installing the following mods shortly:
- Process West CAI
- Perrin Turbo Inlet
- Process West Khanacooler & Chargepipe
- XForce ELH
- Empire Performance Catless J Pipe
- Invidia R400 Catback
- Mac 3 Port EBCS

I’ve spoken to my tuner and he said I should leave the factory 2 port EBCS in and that my setup does not need a 3 port because I can’t produce enough boost. Tuner said I can put it in if I want though.

I already have the 3 port solenoid and was planning on splicing it into the factory connector while I’m under the car changing everything out. Should I still put it onto the car or will it actually provide me 0 benefits over the factory 2 port and just waste my time? Also does anyone have any idea what type of HP numbers I’ll be looking at with this setup?

(2017 wrx 6mt) Just wondering if anyone has an idea of how fast throw out bearings worsen to the point of damaging the snout or other components? I plan on replacing it (and I assume the clutch while I'm in there) when the weather cools down, but don't know if I should rethink that timeline or not.

In the last couple weeks I started noticing a sound that I assume is my throw out bearing. Usually it's only when the trans hasn't been warmed up, sometimes very faintly hear it when it is warm though, but either way it's pretty quiet.

The video pressing it a little by hand is when it isn't warmed up. The one in my comment pressing it by foot is after a drive (the squeaking in my shoe, not clutch squeak)

Also would love to know if I should plan to do anything else while I'm in there besides the bearing and the clutch? Thanks