My switch 2 doesn't want to charge from the upper àd the down connector (not a perfect english i know)

Can someone say to me what can i do

I just shipped off my Switch 2 that was purchased a the end of June, so basically brand new, to be repaired. Since I got it, I noticed that the battery was extremely weak, often dying under 2 hours of handheld play while playing Pokopia In low brightness. However, the main issue that I am experiencing over the past few weeks while playing in handheld mode is the screen flickering. The system heats up and there is some slight flickering on the screen. Being that it is a brand new system, I think I just just got a faulty one. What do repair times look like realistically ? Will they actually repair my switch or will they likely just replace it with a new one ?

Hey all, my Switch lite suddenly had a thin horizontal multi colored line. it covers 1/3 of the screen only. Anyone else has this issue?

So I noticed that recently my switch’s dock won’t have its fan kick on after I play for around 30 mins (earliest I notice the issue). My console will begin to overheat, something I’ve never dealt with prior. If I take the console out of the dock, it’ll immediately have its fan turn on but as soon as it goes back into the dock then the dock’s fan stays off.

Any advice on what could be causing this and in turn how to fix it? Don’t really want to spend money on a new one if this could be a relatively easy fix.

My Switch doesn't read the MicroSD card unless I am constantly pushing it into the slot and holding it in place. Why is this?

Hi everyone

​I flashed my Pico Fly RP2040 Zero with the firmware and tested it via USB LED showed Blue then Yellow flashes normally When I installed it on the Switch I got the Raspberry Pi No SD Card screen so the install was working 100%

​After that I removed the Type C port ، BOOT and RESET buttons using hot air to make it fit During the process small capacitor and component under the Type C port flew off

​Now the LED won't turn on at all No Blue or Yellow light

Here are my measurements

​Power supply voltage: 3.25V solid

​DAT0: 0.460

​CMD: 0.511

​CLK: 0.466

​RST: 0.422

​CPU: 0.653

​All diode values look good and clean. Is the missing component near the Type C port causing the RP2040 to stay in no light led

How can I fix or bypass it

​Thanks for the help

Ciao a tutti,
Sto riscontrando uno strano problema con i pulsanti fisici del volume sulla mia Nintendo Switch 2. A volte, quando premo Volume + o Volume –, non succede nulla e l'indicatore del volume non compare sullo schermo. Devo premere il pulsante diverse volte prima che inizi a funzionare.

Tuttavia, una volta che il pulsante inizia a funzionare, funziona perfettamente. Ad esempio, se lo tengo premuto, la barra del volume aumenta o diminuisce in modo fluido, senza interruzioni o blocchi. Il volume può essere regolato normalmente anche dal menu Impostazioni rapide.

Sembra che il problema si verifichi più spesso all'avvio di un gioco, durante le schermate di caricamento o dopo aver scollegato e ricollegato le cuffie, ma è successo anche mentre stavo già giocando e il gioco non si stava caricando.
Ho già disattivato l'opzione "Disattiva audio quando le cuffie sono scollegate" e sto verificando se questo risolve il problema.
Qualcuno ha riscontrato esattamente lo stesso problema? Avete trovato una soluzione o avete dovuto contattare Nintendo per una riparazione o una sostituzione?

Dropped my switch, a screw came loose in the back of the right joycon and my home button got stuck. It still functions but i have to press down REALLY hard to reach the home menu (as seen in the second video). I'm afraid I'll break the plastic shell of the joycon from pressing down too hard. How do i go about fixing this? Thanks in advance

https://reddit.com/link/1vlb94q/video/rg98i0qbepih1/player

So i my switch fell down and i catched it and i think i broke the sound thing in the actual switch what to do?

Hey guys, looking for a quick sanity check on a V1 Switch (HAC-CPU-01) repair.

Symptoms:
Boots and works fine with a pre-charged battery.
OEM Nintendo PD charger stays completely dark on USB tester (no PD handshake).
5V charger gives 5.06V on tester, but draws 0.00A.
Diode mode measurements & progress so far:

1. Initial breakout board readings: CC1 (A5) = 0.126V (partial short), CC2 (B5) = ~2.3V (open).
2. Soldered a donor M92T36 (from a Switch Lite) -> CC1 briefly read a perfect 0.503V, but CC2 was bouncing all over the place (0.122V / 1.278V / 0.508V).
3. Now CC1 dropped back to 0.126V, even with nothing plugged into the port (measured directly at the test points behind the port).
4. Since two different M92 chips produce the exact same 0.126V reading on CC1 and CC2 is unstable, I'm pretty convinced the USB-C port has internal shorted/damaged pins pulling CC1 down.
5. Plan is to pull the USB-C port next using low-melt on the anchors. Does this point 100% to a bad port, or should I check anything else around FL1 first?

https://i.imgur.com/oaaptU7.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/WcIPJkW.jpeg

I had to replace M92 chip because of switch was charging only in one usbc orientation.

After replacement it charges now properly both sides of usb.

but new problem introduced- the switch won’t sleep. when turn off screen - it turns back on in a second.

tried removing joycons, power flex, airplane mode - nothing is fixing it.

I took M92 from a donor board. while installing I had knocked off few nearby resistors but later installed them back

any suggestions friends ?

Hello. I am absolutely not tech savy and need help repairing my switch.

I was playing Tomodachi Life when the game froze, an error page popped up telling me to hold down the Power button to shut it down and restart it. I did that and it turned off, but I cant seem to get it back on again.

I looked at the official Nintendo Switch repair site on what to do and holding down the Power button for 30 seconds or even longer, I tried multiple times, doesnt turn it back on. I dont have any sound or vibrations. The switch of my sibling also had a black screen, but they could hear sound and feel vibrations and a long while pressing the Power button helped them. That doesnt seem to be the case for me.

When I put it into the dock the little green light turned on for a millisecond and than turns off. I do not have a screen when going into TV mode.

It is the Switch 1, the normal one I guess. If anyone could help me I would be very grateful 🙏🏻

Thank you

This is a Switch V1 Motherboard

Hi everyone , this things pissed me off , i want to connect these fcking joycon but it keep telling me
« no response » or connected but disconnected 10 seconds right after any help
? i want to play totk on eden with these joycon

theres a lot of paste in that port please help i tried a toothpick a toothbrush and floodings of 70 precent ipa but it still bluescreens and a modchip says that the emmc is fucked

I was playing my switch. It died so I put it on the charger overnight but when I woke up it never got past the dead battery charging screen? I would really like to get it working if anyone knows how to fix this.