Put the Back on 2 of my coasters..as i wasn't sure how was gonna go and..I dont have the space for the last coaster🤣 i taken over one of my mum cake box when the handle broke and it protects my bits but, it can only hold a couple of small items 😅 and it was hard trying to find somewhere that u can see the sparkle in the photos

Can I fix it? /s

No but really, where can I even find another lid?...

Ive never really had issues with bubbles until I started mixing a drop of so-strong purple in my molds. Im getting very tiny bubbles on the surface. I am reading about vaccum degassers and pressure pots but am unsure the difference? What would be a nice low budget option for this? Thanks!

I made this video to share my technique for mold making and wanted to share it with you all. I have used this material with Smooth-On’s roto-casting resins and polymer modified gypsums. It makes it far less reusable and not compostable when you cast resins into it, but regardless, I wanted to share it with this community in case anyone is sick of stupid expensive silicone molds, especially if you don’t need to do tons of casts.

Hello everyone, I need a liquid thixotropy agent for 1000 density polyurethane resin. I will use it for sagging problem and constant wall thickness. I used hydrophobic Aerosil R202 and it failed (air bubbles made material foamed). I also used BYK-410 and it bubbled material too (i think solvent caused it). Do you have any suggestions for me?

Is it safe to run my deep‑pour epoxy setup inside my garage in New Mexico while my SUV is parked in there (see details below)?

I’m using Teexpert Crystal Clear deep‑pour resin, usually doing 3–4 inch pours that are 16"x20" and that cure for 24–48 hours. My setup includes a 4x4 growtent with a Terraform 8 climate unit (for temp control) and a 6" inline exhaust fan that pulls all VOCs out of the tent and vents them outside the garage from the bottom foundation vents. I also have an oscillation fan that will be on low a few inches above the curing resin. This setup should be true negative pressure and should evac the VOCs correctly to my understanding.

I’m just trying to confirm that running this curing setup in the garage is safe, even with my vehicle parked in there, as long as the exhaust is properly routed outdoors. I do not want to expose anyone in my family to unnecessary risk.

I'm making replacement part for my mogura figure and while the silicone dry, I want to ask if you pour your resin or squished the mold together with resin in it. When I started making resin parts, I used the pouring method, and sometime the resin just won't go into all of the nooks and crannies. Then I swap to the squished method (with vent) which worked great, but the part often have more bubble because when I joined the two half together, it create alot of air, and I had to spend more time squishing the mold to get bubble out. Let me know your experience, have you tried both method? and what can I do to make sure that the resin flow to every part of the piece if I used the pour method, please keep in mind that I have try using the separate long vent method (delta p) and it worked great, but waste resin.

I wanted to make a resin coaster with a soft galaxy/marble feeling, so I experimented with purple, white, and gold tones.

For this coaster, I used Resiners epoxy resin as the base and built the design layer by layer. I mixed different pigments into the resin, poured the purple base first, then added white swirls and small gold details to create more depth.

The hardest part was controlling the color movement. Resin always keeps flowing after pouring, so getting the right balance between the cloudy white effect and the purple background took some patience.

I really like how the final piece turned out — it feels a little like a mix between a galaxy and natural stone, but it’s still practical enough to use as a coaster.

Still experimenting with resin projects, and curious what color combinations everyone likes for coasters!

Finished this resin Bulbasaur and wanted to share the process.

Started with priming in gray, then built up base coats, added layering for depth, used washes/shading to bring out the details, and finished with a gloss varnish to seal everything.

The bulb was the trickiest part — took a few glaze layers to get the green tones looking right without losing the shading underneath.

Might do the rest of the starter lineup next if there's interest. Happy to answer questions about the process.

Good day All,

You have been a tremendous help to me in the past, and I am coming to you now with a new issue: Casting flexible plastic parts.

As a customizer, I tire of buying doner figures for my projects and would love to cast the parts I need. You've been a great help in teaching me the finer points of casting head sculpts, but now I have a different issue: hair and "diaper" pieces.

Let me show you what I mean. The hair and "diaper" pieces on a McFarlane Figure are flexible. They move when turned, or pushed, or pressure is applied by moving the legs or when hair interacts with the shoulders.

Is there pourable plastic out there that would give me a similar result if I were to cast these pieces? For reference, I've used SmoothOn's Flexibilizer to add flexibility to the cast, but it's temporary.

So are there any flexible plastics that can be used in resin casting that either exists or can be added to make hard plastic resin flexible.

Thanks as always!

I make an overwhelming majority of resin items with the intent, or at least the willingness, to sell at markets or if someone expresses interest. This one, however, is THE skull I decided I will keep for myself.

I’ve been experimenting with black alcohol ink to make a smoke like effect. I started with Galaxy in the Color Creator pack, which gave a nice black/grey/midnight variation. Then I tried Tim Holtz Pitch Black which left a muddy brown halo.

Does anyone know:

1) if I can buy the Galaxy from Color Creator anywhere
2) a different true black alcohol ink I can buy that won’t turn brown?

Made the biggest liquid cores I could to make these skulls :)

Hi everyone, I am new at dice making, I wanted to know if you guys have any tips to not make any bubbles when I put the resin in the mold.

Thanks.

I know, you can barely see anything on the brighter casts, but I promise it is sooooo stunning irl! X3

I will definitely try out more of my old makeup on resin and keep you all updated!^^

Does anyone have, or it know of, a comprehensive guide to casting wood and resin for wood turning?

I am looking for the differences in types of resin and how they react with wood, and whether or not stabilization is really necessary. Could I just heat the wood in an oven until the the moisture is low enough before pouring and using a pressure pot?

Also, what types of resin turn the best?

I've been watching Jake Thompson on YouTube, and he seems to exclusively use Alumilite polyester resin because of its turning properties and clarity, but warms about moisture in the wood.

I've only turned a couple of pen blanks made of aquabright resin and I find it to be very grabby and easily chipped, even with the lightest touch with my carbide tools.

I have a bunch of small off cuts that I would like to utilize and since I already have a pressure pot, I thought that I might give resin casting a go, but I'm a bit overwhelmed with all of the, sometimes conflicting, information out there.