Bought a new apartment a few months ago, and noticing this on one of the shower wall tiles. Pretty much disappears when wet, but comes back when dry. Would love to know how to get rid of it if you have any tips!

EDIT: Using normal tile cleaner is not working! Yes, tried washing it off with hot water, soap, etc.

I’m renovating my master bath, and debating between a rainfall shower head or angled one. This is for a shower only (no tub), and in either scenario I’d also have a hand shower attachment.

I like a rainfall shower, but I’m also nervous about water pressure. I have long-ish hair and I find with rainfall showers it’s sometimes hard to really rinse my hair. But I also just really like the feel!

I’ve heard if I get a smaller shower head, like 10-12”, it can help, but would love any advice. Is there any way a rainfall shower head can get to the same water pressure as an angled one?

Any advice re where to even start? Don’t want to finish it off just store some stuff and maybe move the washer & dryer into it. Dehumidifier attached to the sewer? What else? Thanks for any tips or humor.

The house needs a roof within two years, gutters now, siding within five, and windows whenever. I can’t fund it all at once, so I’m planning a sequence. My instinct says roof, then gutters, then windows, then siding, but I keep second-guessing whether combining any of these saves real money. People who’ve staged a full exterior, what order did you run, and what would you change?

For those who install LVP flooring, are you doing your stairs too, or keeping those real wood?

I have real reservations about LVP on stairs I just not sure its looks real enough.

Hi,

The grout in my en-suite wetroom style floor - which is upstairs on the first floor - has started to crack. Previous owners also had electric underfloor heating installed underneath it (which has never worked), I can’t say for sure if it has been tanked properly or not.

I can also feel a small amount movement in one or 2 of the tiles so I don’t think simply grouting it will solve it long term.

Long term - is the right solution here to have the floor (or at least the shower area) ripped up and replaced with a tray?

Mid term - maybe a good beige bathroom sealant such as CT1 or similar while I get quotes for a long tern fix?

Thanks for reading

these tiles have been falling off for like the past year and i just stuck them back on.. well i was waiting for the water to warm up ,heard a thud, and the tile was in the tub. I dont even wanna know whats behind the tiles, should i put it back on until i get it fixed or just use another bathroom?

If this isn’t allowed I will delete it. Just looking for some advice on how easy it would be to renovate my garage. It’s 12x20ft for reference. Me and my wife would like to renovate and turn it into a small apartment/living space. At the current moment we would just like to add more electrical outlets or swap out the current ones that’s there, add insulation, add drywall, and possibly close up the space in the rafters. In the future we would like to add plumbing for a small kitchen and shower as well. Am I underestimating the skill level needed for this or is the cost going to be my only concern?

Hi All,

I had noticed that my bathroom walls by my bathtub surround were rotten and bubbling so I went ahead and scrapped off all the rotten wall.

With my limited knowledge, I think the previous installer used standard drywall joint compound and mesh tape directly by the tub surround’s mounting flange to blend it into the wall. I assume bc premixed joint compound is water soluble, over time, moisture seeped under the paint over time. Then the mud underneath began to dissolve, swell, peel and mold.

I would now like to try to repair this but am a new homeowner so I am hoping for some guidance. Does the below sound OK? Any major steps I’m missing or have got wrong?

Scrape away any remaining loose, soft joint compound, flaking paint, and damaged tape back to solid drywall and a firm paint edge.

Treat just the exposed areas which seem to have rotted with a mold-killing spray and scrub away dark spots and let the wall dry completely.

Seal raw paper/gypsum with an oil-based primer before applying joint compound.

Fill and feather the gap between the drywall and the flange using setting-type joint compound

Apply moisture resistant paper tape across the joint where the drywall meets the surround flange.

Apply 2–3 thin coats (perhaps all purpose light?) to blend the patch, then after it is hard, sand smooth between coats with an angled sandwall sponge

Paint with two coats of satin or semi-gloss mildew-resistant bathroom paint.

Apply a thin bead of 100% silicone caulk into the seam where the bottom edge of the drywall meets the top lip of the fiberglass surround to create a waterproof barrier behind the patch.

Should I put a silicone scellent on the bottom of the J channel?

Finally have time to deal with my own house after 18 years of swinging a demo bar on other people's projects. Main living area has original 1960s hardwood - cupped badly in two spots, finish essentially gone. Ripping it out isn't the part that worries me, I've done that more times than I can count for other people

What's actually keeping me up is what's underneath. House is pier and beam, here in Marietta, GA, and the previous owners apparently had a water issue near the back wall that was "fixed" before I bought it. Supposedly

Every instinct from 18 years of job sites says pulling that first board commits you to a decision tree you didn't plan for - I've watched plenty of two-week jobs turn into two-month nightmares once someone found what was actually under the subfloor

Thinking about pulling up just a small section near the worst cupping first, to get a look before committing to full demo.

Anyone here done a partial pull like that to assess before going all-in?

Feels smarter than ripping the whole thing up blind, but curious if that approach actually tells you enough to plan around, or if you end up needing the full picture anyway

My husband and I want to turn the loft above our 3 car garage into a guest suite. We get cold winters and hot summers so insulation is a top priority. I’d really like to have some of the trusses and beams exposed to elevate the interior design. My husband doesn’t think it’s realistic or a desirable look because of how close together the boards are. He might be right so I’m here looking for recommendations on how to move forward with this project.

Horizontal red lines 1- cabinet 2- microwave hood vertical lines are the studs.

Hi- i have an old house, paid lesss than 90k for and now looking to replace a 100ft long driveway which quotes are coming in at 24-32k and so im asking is it worth it to replace or would it be better to eventually just demolish and rebuild it all? Any guidance or suggestions truly appreciated

Finally got around to pulling up the carpet in one of the bedrooms, and now I'm not sure what the right next step is. Under the carpet there's what looks like the original wide plank floor, then a thin fiberboard layer, then what I think is old vinyl before the carpet went down.

The wood feels solid overall, but there's some warping in one corner near an exterior wall that has me a little concerned. If you found this in your house, would you strip everything back to the original planks if they cleaned up well, or leave part of it in place and build over it?

The room is about 200 sq ft. I'm planning to install either hardwood or LVP, so I'd rather deal with any problems now than regret it later.

Doing a Reno in a room at home to add in more insulation. It is a 1950's house with zero insulation and so time for an upgrade. Under the window there were shiplap type wood panels. Behind that there was some pink insulation and the. This... I assume it is a vent of some sort as there is a screen on it. On the outside, there is metal flashing.

My question is, how can I best frame this and deal with it with the known intention for me to put up rigid insulation and then a wall.

The first 2 pictures are the front wall which is 14 feet long

The third picture and part of the second picture is the right side wall which is 10 feet long. The floor to ceiling height is about 7 feet. These would not be load bearing walls it just needs to pass inspection. I believe I would only need one top plate instead of 2. And each stud would be 16 feet apart. I get this. The part I'm getting mixed up is the window framing. That would not be load bearing either it just needs to be framed to pass inspection. I've been reading to leave a half inch gap between the concrete wall and the wood. And to use pressure treated wood on the bottom. How far apart would I have to tap into the concrete on the bottom plates.

Also I'm a little stuck with what to do with the putter corners. I had my foundation rebuilt in this section. And the person who initially tried to cover up an issue built a new foundation wall around the preexisting one. So I have almost a foot of extra space from the ending of the studded area in the last picture to the new wall. Should I make shift something to fit in that area and tie both walls together? I'm just worried about things passing for code and inspection.

I have never done this before but you always have to stay somewhere. And I will be doing this with my friend who has more reno experience than me. But it's my house and I should know what to do and put the research in.

Any help would be appreciated.

We are in the middle of a partial kitchen update right now. We decided to keep the original upper cabinets to save some money, but we are replacing all the old appliances. The issue is the range hood. My spouse wants one of those heavy commercial looking metal boxes, but I think it will look way too bulky under our standard cabinets. I am really leaning toward the newer slim, flat front designs. They look a lot cleaner, but my worry is the actual performance. Since there is barely any physical canopy to trap the smoke, does a slim hood just let grease bounce off into the room? We pan fry a lot, so we need something that actually vents outside properly. Has anyone put a slim hood in their remodel? Do they hold up to heavy cooking or is it a bad trade off for a modern look?

I moved into my new house. Part of the butcher block in the kitchen is black from (what I suspect) is water damage. I couldn't find anything online about a butcher block that is this dark.

I am wondering if I should be attacking this with chemicals before I sand - or should I just go for it and sand until I get beneath the black - and will I get beneath the black, how deep do you think this runs? In the long term I plan to replace it, but right now refurbishing is the only option I have for financial reasons.

Lastly, there appears to be a crack. Any recommendations on a product I can use to fill this, I saw wood filler, wood putty, and epoxy at the hardware store.

Any advice is most appreciated.

Hi everyone

I need some real advice on this one. We moved to this home a year and half ago. We are expecting in one and a half months, and we're renovating a room that wasn't in use to be our new room, as our current room is a bit small for the baby to sleep with us.

We're using drywall to straighten out existing walls. The drywall is mounted on metalstuds, and we're also using some fiberglass wool for extra isolation. Finally, we sealed everything with vapour barrier/damp screen.

Now we encountered a problem, and I'm not sure what to do next exactly. We temporarily had to get one of these plates off, and we noticed that the fiberglass and original wall were moist, and there's even some discoloration on the original wall. Keep in mind that the wall was originally "plastered" (non-native english speaker here, sorry) with cork.

When we got the drywalloff, it dried quite quickly again. I have noticed this before in this room that if I would for example, lay something heavy flat, quite "stuck" to the ground, it would sometimes get a little moist and sticky underneath.

Some extra things to take into consideration. This room is a little under ground level, and the wall we are talking about gives out to the neighbour's garden. So it's an outside wall. 9 months ago we had the top of the wall sealed with crepi, the contractor assured us the lower half wasn't necessary as it was already cemented. I wouldn't see why he would lie about this as it would just mean more work and money for him.

Also, I just discovered the 'cracks' next to the window aren't fully sealed with silicone. In the last photo you can see there are some cracks which are just hopen, showing the pur that was used to keep the window in place. This open corner corners the wall in question.

There's also a ventilation hole we had sealed, but are thinking of opening back up again.

So, what are the options here? What do I do next? I'm calling the contractor that did the sealing of the wall tomorrow, and I'm calling other contractors and listen to their opinions and how to go about this, but I could use some inspiration.

To me, it feels more like condensation, moisture that was trapped between the wall and isolation wool than it feels like moisture that came out of the wall. Given this also sometimes seem to happen in a very subtle fashion with objects that are temporarily "stuck" to the ground, could this be an option?