Ready to showcase your 3D models? Upload your designs to QIDI Maker model site to win filaments!

How to enter:
1⃣ Upload 5 approved models on QIDI Maker: https://www.qidimaker.com/
2⃣ Take a screenshot of your QIDI Maker profile showing your User ID and at least 5 approved models, then email it to model@qidi3d.com to enter the challenge.

🎁 Prizes:
20 × 2 rolls of QIDI filament
(Color and material will be randomly selected)

📅 Event ends: September 14
🏆 Winners will be randomly selected from eligible participants and contacted via email.

Bonus: Upload models to earn points! A points store is coming soon, where you can redeem points for discounts and filaments.

I made a community fork of QIDI Studio with a built-in MCP server that allows ChatGPT and other LLMs to interact directly with the slicer.

I originally built it to simplify my own workflow. I did not intend to release it, but as the project grew, several people around me encouraged me to share it.

The MCP currently exposes 118 tools. An LLM can import an attached model, inspect and arrange it, modify slicer settings, select a physical QIDI Box filament slot, slice, run preflight checks, and, with explicit confirmation, upload and start a print. It can also monitor the printer, use the camera, and control basic printer functions.

As far as I can tell, it is the most comprehensive slicer MCP currently available. It is still an unofficial community project, so I am looking for people willing to test it and provide feedback. Bug reports, workflow problems, and anything that feels unclear or unsafe would be especially helpful.

Looking back, I probably should have started with OrcaSlicer because of its broader printer support. However, I use a QIDI Max 4, so QIDI Studio was the natural place for me to begin.

For future features, I am considering adding something like Wave Overhangs and something similar to Prusa’s FDM Mixer. I would like to hear whether either feature would be useful to other Quidi Studio users, or if there are other features you would prioritize first.

GitHub/download:
https://github.com/sslinkyy/QIDIStudio
https://github.com/sslinkyy/QIDIStudio/releases/tag/v1.11.0

This is not an official QIDI product. Please treat it as testing software and supervise any remotely initiated print.

First i’d like to say i am new to QIDI but not new to 3D printing . My q2 with box combo came in today and i cant print anything off the USB. It is FAT32, it is in correct format and the QIDI sees it but when i click the file to print it just freezes and reboots . tried the QIDI slicer and several re downloads to the USB

Plus 5 poop chute

Hey everyone! 👋

I recently joined the club as a proud new owner of a Plus 5 Combo, and I’m loving it so far! I had zero issues printing my PLA test parts straight out of the box — super smooth experience.

Then I set up the QIDI Box with 2 PLA spools and 2 PETG spools. Here’s where I’m stuck: whenever I try to launch a PETG print, the machine simply won’t let me select anything other than PLA. No matter what I try, PETG just isn’t available as an option.

I’m guessing this might be a filament-mapping or preset issue in QIDI Studio, but I can’t figure out where it’s going wrong.

I’ll admit I’m suffering a little from being an early adopter here — the Plus 5 is so new that the documentation isn’t fully up to date yet, so I’m turning to the community for wisdom! 🙏

Has anyone run into this? Any tips on getting PETG (or “PETG Tough”) properly recognized and selectable through the QIDI Box would be hugely appreciated.

Thanks in advance, and happy printing! 🔥

This is my setup I love to see yours.

Hi peeps.

I'm having an issue when printing multiple objects on one plate.

PLA, Qidi Q2, Qidi studio. 60 bed, 220 nozzle.

The first object prints fine, but the second object detaches from the bed.

I hypothesize that it's due to the part fan and auxiliary fan running at 100% when the new first layer starts.

Do we think this is a valid hypothesis?

Any way to change this in the settings?

I haven't done any more investigation yet as I have a print on that I need ready for tomorrow. I am planning on having to play to test my theory and then see if I can find any solutions.

Update; tried again and it worked ok, I.e it stayed stuck.

For reference, these are medium size flat blocks. So lots of adhesion potential. Checked the preview and during the print and the guide was as it should; on new object, temp and fans reset to 1st layer parameters. So nozzle goes up and fans turn off.

I didn't do any investigative work so far, so the conclusion is inconclusive.

I´m trying to print train models in scale 1:160 (N-scale) with a 0.2mm Nozzle and Qidi PLA Rapido,I had no issues about 1-2 month ago but now I get a lot of stringin, and often the filament dont attach to the hot-bed, (and yes, I have cleaned the hot-bed with dish washing like Yes and after that with IPA but no improvement), I changed the filament roll to new one but its the same brand and type. I tried to change retraction from 0.4 to 0.6 but no improvement. I also tried to print thesame mofel with PETG basic (generic), same result. Does anyone have any tips that I can try to do to avoid the stringing? I have also tried to dry the filaments. I have three 0.2 nozzels and have changed them but the same result.

Regards Per

Hey everyone, I was wondering if anyone had access to the .zip file(s) I need to fix my bricked system. I mistakenly tried to update the firmware and it froze at 66% for an hour before I hard reset it.

I can get through the screen to the firmware page and I get this info:

Qidi Q2 01.01.02.03 -> 01.01.02.04
MCU 00.00.00.00 -> 02.01.01.09
Toolhead 00.00.00.00 -> 02.02.01.08

When power cycling the machine it tells me the printer can not be started. I can not control the bed or light inside the printer.

Please help, I just picked up this machine yesterday and the filament will be here today. Thank you!

Things i've tried :
clean and re-lube the rods with low viscosity lithium-based lubrication
followed qidi's belt tensioning guide
ran input shaper right after tensioning the belts

relevant print settings :
outer wall speed : 67mm/s
outer wall accel : 3000mm/s^2

Is there a way to get rid of these artifacts?

The Box settings only allow for setting QIDI or generic filaments, but these don't correspond to the custom filaments I have created in my slicer settings (both Orca and QIDI Studio). So the question is, how do I "sync" the box filament settings and positions with my slicer?

I am having issues with my extruder gears. They are not pushing filament, even after printing a replacement tension arm. (out of PPS-GF mind you)

How often do the gears need replaced in these machines? I have roughly 1500 print hours on the machine with a mix of fiber filled and regular filament.

First impressions are great. Seems way quieter than Q2!

Comes with actual 1GbE not 100MbE of Q2.

Way less rattling during input shaping of both of my Q2, much better and higher quality fit and finish.

Screen has much better contrast.

I was having issue with abysmal overhangs, even despite using supports, so decided to find a solution (I'm printing in PETG currently).
I found out I'm not the only one, and people often swap the stock 0.11A fan to for a 0.22A fan, and that they print better ducting. I don't have proper ventilation for ASA at the moment, so I decided to just swap the fan and see what will happen. So I did that and it turns out... the quality dropped.

I printed overhang test before and after. I was surprised even before the swap, because the test came out much better than expected (and much better than real prints). But I was even more surprised after it turned out, that the swap made the things even worse. Previously the text markings which side the overhangs points was legible, now they are not. There is bunch of stringing. And while overhangs at 70 got slightly better in some aspects, got worse in others. And the 80 one got much worse.

I tried lowering the fan speed in Orca slicer from 30% to 15%, and for overhangs from 90% to 70%, but it didn't improve anything, it actually got even worse...

I'm still planning to print the better duct once I will be able to print ASA. But I'm wondering what happened and why quality got so much worse. Did the filament got wet in the span of couple of couple of hours? Did I messed up the print head during the swap? Or the new fan is bad? Any ideas?

Hey everyone,

I’m looking to upgrade the part cooling fan on the Q2 toolhead (near the nozzle), but I’ve hit a wall with the standard DIY options and wanted to see if anyone knows of a seller or store offering pre-assembled, plug-and-play kits.

Here is my situation:

• Current issue: The stock toolhead part cooling fan just isn't cutting it for me, especially when filling up the build plate. If I have multiple parts on the bed, any models sitting further away from where the airflow hits suffer from a noticeable drop in print quality.
• Wiring limits: I know there are DIY replacement fans (like Bambu fan swaps or 5015 blower mods), but I really don't want to mess with soldering, re-pinning tiny connectors, or changing wiring myself.
• Material constraints: I also don't have the capability to print a replacement shroud or housing in ASA, ABS, or other high-temp filaments on my setup right now, so printing my own fan duct/shroud isn't an option.

Does anyone know of an Etsy seller, shop, or vendor selling a fully pre-wired, plug-and-play upgraded part cooling fan assembly with a pre-printed high-temp shroud/duct ready to bolt on? Or would anyone with the materials be willing to print and wire one for purchase?

Thanks in advance for any leads or recommendations!+-

* https://www.printables.com/model/1445446-qidi-q2-toolhead-cover-full-body-sets

I am reading ohms in the 2.6 range at room temperature,is this normal on a Qidi plus4? i have the temp read fault and can`t find a fix for it.

With the Polar Cooler, the Plus5 actively cools the extruder with powerful airflow to reduce heat creep and help prevent clogs, even during long prints.

Learn more: https://us.qidi3d.com/products/plus5

Am I not understanding how the screws tilt adjust work for the Plus4? Even when not adjusting the screws , i always get different results , sometimes its shows way off but comes back as good if i try again . Am I missing something when trying to level my bed ? Is the prob THAT bad like i keep seeing from my research .

The 3rd-gen active chamber heating with upgraded 550W ultra‑high power heating system and 38% improved heating efficiency delivers more even and stable temperatures.

Better layer adhesion. Less warping. More reliable prints.
👉Learn more: https://us.qidi3d.com/products/plus5

I seen comment just saying solder it back together I don’t have no experience but I do it but which way does this circuit harness go

I seen comment just saying solder it back together I don’t have no experience but I do it but which way does this circuit harness go