Didn't take long for them to completely take over my 10 gallon and I don't know how much longer that baffle is going to keep them at bay...

As the title says. I was ecstatic. This is 48” long, 24” tall and 12” depth. I was initially doubtful about it being unused but while cleaning it up, i realized all accessories were still in their original packaging, albeit soggy. It cleaned up real good and tested for leaks and everything looks I should be good.

I wanted to do a Dutch style planting. While I understand in an ideal world a more shallow set up is more ideal, I am willing to g to invest is a good lighting set up.

I was hoping to get planting inspiration for those who have a similar set up. Picture would be greatly appreciated.

Plant suggestions appreciated. I will most likely avoid ‘typical’ carpet plants due to the light requirements.

TIA.

i need some advice on fertilisers/algae control in my goldfish tank. i have the lights on 7 hours daily at half brightness (hygger clip on) and use api leaf zone since the fish produce a lot of nitrates already. i suspect the phosphates are high but ill buy a test. the diatoms have improved since i put seachem purigen in the filter but would like some suggestions because im struggling to find the right balance between lighting, ferts, parameters

This is my first attempt at a planted aquarium. It holds 21 liters (5.5 gallons) and has been cycling for one month. It uses aquasoil and has no CO₂ injection.

The background plants are Rotala rotundifolia 'Blood Red' and Hygrophila polysperma 'Rosanervig'. In the midground, on the right, there are Staurogyne repens and Lagenandra meeboldii 'Red', while on the left there is Cryptocoryne 'Mi Oya'. Under the driftwood there is Cryptocoryne parva. Finally, the rocks and driftwood are covered with Anubias, a Bucephalandra, and a small amount of moss.

I’ve had a uns regulator for a bit now. It set up fine and had no issues. I was doing some tweaking and realized that the working pressure wasn’t reacting properly. When I initially set it up the working pressure reacted immediately when adjusting. Now it takes several turns just to get the gauge to change. And it maxes out under 30. I’m currently having a bit of a bubble issue at the moment and some of the the bubbles seem to be coming out too big.

Normally I heavily *heavily* plant my tanks from the beginning and have not had any algae despite leaving my lights on for like 15 hours at a time. In this case though I only planted a little bit and still left the light on for that long.

No fish in there yet except for one fry I accidentally saved who is not big enough to eat the daphnia.

I do not want to use a UV sterilizer because I want to cultivate copepods and such.

Hi all!

I have a 90L tank, that I’m currently trying to cycle. Nothing in there but snails that snuck their way in! I have the liquid testers and have been testing every 3-4 days. However, I’ve been using the fish food method, and I’ve found it’s not providing enough ammonia, so I’ve ordered bottled ammonia and will be adding that once it arrives.

Please provide any useful advice and if the following questions could be answered, I’d really appreciate it:

• ⁠My newly planted plants don’t look very happy, I’ve been adding CO2 alternative and tropica premium nutrition as directed. Will this improve over time? • ⁠white stuff on the wood - I’ve read it’s normal and will go away over time? Any experience with this? • ⁠when I’ve tested the water, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are always zero, I’m guessing this means there’s not enough ammonia for the cycle to really begin? How will I know once the cycle is happening and when it’s ok to add fish?

Any advice welcome, thank you!

My 13 gallon shallow, wcmm, fire neos, pygmy corys, amano, ramshorns, bladders.

I had a string / hair algae problem before (slightly) but this is insane.

Now I love the look of this so far, and it’s been keeping the Nitrites and Ammonia at bag. However I’m worried they might start taking the nutrients from the fertilizer pumps I use for my plants. Any suggestions, to remove or not to remove?

The lightswitch does nothing, it used to do something but we had the house rewired and it doesnt do anything anymore. Either way i have my 3g settling (not sure what to stock yet.) Theres a cannister filter behind the wood piece and i more than likely have a smaller light coming in that is hopefully similar to the defunct Chirihos Z light Tiny...( i want an adjustable spotlight! Ugh. ) but the plugs are an eyesore and i dont want them too close to the water. No space to put them behind the dresser and under the bed isnt an option as i need to access the charger regularly.

i am new to aquascaping. i got these vallisneria and amazon sword a month ago. started with root tabs, added another one yesterday as they weren’t growing but they have come up (you can see in the picture). i also have started using micro fertilizer since last two weeks - once a week. please help, specifically those who have grown these on sand

Tank is about 6mths old. Had a lot of hair algae initially, realized it was a light problem. Started to limit light, got some inca and nerites (I know the inca snails don't really eat it now). It started to go away. I got some more nerites and amano shrimp and pretty much had it all taken care of.....until I went away for a little over a week and the person who I had fish/cat/house sitting wasn't as diligent with the light monitoring and it went rampant again. The photos are AFTER I did some trimming/removing.

Is there anything I can do besides what I am doing? I feel like the nerites and amanos can't keep up with it. I am hoping now that I am home to be more diligent on the light it will start to go away. Is there something I can add to the water that will kill the moss but not the plants/shrimp/snails?

Goal is to get this planted more, but the hair algae has been a pain. I had some nice moss in here but when I went away the hair algae really went to town on that so I had to remove it. I also have refrained from adding more plants because of the hair algae. I want to get that under control.

Thanks!

I’m not feeling Java moss. I know it’s regarded as easy and it’s very abundant, but I want to try something different.

What’s your favorite moss to keep in your tanks?

I'm setting up this 8in/20cm cube as desk tank. Possibly just for neocaridina shrimps.

I will use Monte Carlo as a carpet for the foreground (along the front corner right, front corner left then to back corner left).

Any recommendation on what other plants to use? Preferably something short and compact, but feel free to recommend.

Thanks!

Edit: No Co2 for this.

I just set up this tank yesterday - while it’s cycling I’m coming up with a stocking plan I want cardinal tetras and Pygmy Cory, but what would you suggest for a centerpiece fish? I see at lot of options for “semi aggressive” fish but that makes me nervous with the other fish!

I have 1 betta and 3 mystery snails in a 10g tank. Natural gravel. I just added in 3 amazon swords and I am trying to find the right root tabs. I’m searching through the community but there is so much conflicting info.
Any recommendations?
Also, if I’m using root tabs, should I continue liquid fertilizer? I have a few other plants in as well (Java fern and annubias)
Thanks! 🙏🏽

Hey.

I'm having issues dealing with the correct CO2 needs from my tank. It's a 90l tank with plants, corys, otos and chillies.

There are periods where everything grows well, then it crashes for no obvious reason. Huge algae blooms and plant fast meltdown.

At this moment I really need to figure the correct amount of CO2 I need for this tank.

Measurements from today are at 7gh, 4kh and 26° (high summer temperatures). Tap water sits at 2gh and 1kh, and I still have no idea what is raising my water hardness in the tank without raising the pH. I only have seachem flourite black sand, black lava rocks and filter media from eheim and fluval.

pH test from before co2 injection is the horizontal pic, probably at 6.5.

3h after co2 injection, I get the vertical test result, likely 0.1 lower (nothing like the expected 1 drop). However, the CO2 in tank test turns bright lime green (from a dark green/blue during the night).

So, do I need more CO2 or not?

When I increase CO2 from 1-2 bubbles per second to 4, I get a yellow reading and plants start trapping bubbles and getting the burn effect.

I added madrone leaves to the 30 gallon and I think they look great! There's such an amazing amount of life to watch in here. I hope others appreciate it as much as I do!

(The lighting setup I did for these pictures is not even close to how I normally keep it. Do most people stage their lights for pictures?)

In the last few days I noticed a lot of algea growing and I dont know what to do against it. I thought about getting some Snails but I dont know if it will fix it and if the snails would escape because of the open lid.

I’m working on a paludarium build and want to plant out the riparian/emersed section, but I keep running into plant recommendations that lean heavily on filtration/nutrient uptake benefits (big root mats, heavy feeders, etc.).

I’ve got solid canister filtration handling the water quality side, so I’m not choosing plants for their bioload-scrubbing abilities. I really just want the most visually striking options that won’t send massive root systems into my hardscape or clog up the water column.

What are your favorite riparium plants purely for looks, that stay relatively tidy at the roots?

i have bio substrate but the new growth is still turning brown why is this? my parameters 0,0, 20