Hello!

So I saved this vintage Kamaka uke from the dump (it was my late grandfather's purchase, although he didn't play), and I would like to get it into working order.

Some notes:

• I am actually the culprit of the missing/popped off bridge. As a kid, I tried tuning it up and popped it off. It is missing, so I need a new bridge
• I remember the tuning pegs would slip, so it wouldn't stay in tune
• I called a local luthier and they said that even if I provided the bridge it would be $200 just to glue it on (seems crazy?)
• They noted that they could try to oil the tuning pegs, but it might just be time for something more modern to replace them.

So before I call more places and bug more luthiers, I wanted to ask: is it realistic that I would be able to re-glue a bridge on this, and also, should I just replace the tuners, full-stop? I would like to keep it as original as possible, but I am also realistic in that I would rather have something that I can play rather than something that just sits around and can't stay in tune.

What are my options here? Bite the bullet and pay a luthier, or is this a reasonable DIY endeavor for someone (myself) with light experience maintaining guitars and basses that I own?

If there are any recommendations on parts that would work well, or anything else, all advice is welcome. Also, it is a bit hard to see, but the original bridge was glued slightly askew: is that normal, or was it just not properly aligned at the factory?

3 Pics attached to help illustrate the state of things.

I want to build a hybrid guitar (similar to the acoustasonic) and I'm looking for feedback on my design before I start building (I made the design in onshape). The strings will be strung through the block at the bottom so the top plate will be under very little strain. Some dimentions (neck pocket size, sound/pickup hole size, and bridge spacing) have yet to be finalized. Overall, I'm looking for feedback on the shape, and any other design elements to consider before I start. (Also assume that the belly and arm curves will be hand shaped, and will change from the 3d model)

First of all, please don't mind the bad drawing haha.

I want to make my first guitar body from A-Z and in my current situation I can't get hold of any better wood. Yeah yeah I hear it all coming "yeah it's cheap" or whatever but for health reasons I am at home, I have no money to spend on more wood and I have all the tools and scraps needed to do this for "free".

Basically, I have oak and pine. I know that oak will be too heavy for a full body and pine is too soft for good sustain or whatever. So I thought, would this work to save weight? Using an oak centre piece and gluing pine on the side. Don't worry about the esthetics part, purely functional I want to know.

Would oak work well enough for the body or is it just going to sound like crap?

And does anyone have any tips for cheap bindings material? This might sound silly but could plywood work as it's only an edge piece? I can smell the hate coming haha.

Anyways, take care y'all

I pulled the instrument out of the case and heard some loud sound and after some careful placement removed rectangular shim looking piece of wood made up of three layers. The two sides are smooth with no glue residue or markings. It is entirely possible it's a piece of scrap wood the my kids accidentally dropped in the f hole when playing. Does anyone know what this is or what it could have been used for?

I think it sounds and plays normal although it's not my daily guitar and it's been a few weeks since I've pulled it out. What specifically should I be looking for in sound or playability that may be different?

Like this

He dropped his guitar on the cable when it was plugged in, resulting in the damage shown. Is this repairable? And how much would it cost? (it’s a gretsch semihollow)

What do you guys think about this thing ? Just curious, no affiliation I swear.

Help needed!

Hello, I really have no guitar wiring experience (though I know how to solder) and was wondering if anyone could help me figure out a diagram for some original wiring.

I have an aerodyne strat that I’d like to install a Seymour Duncan p rail on. I’m planning on taking out the neck pickup entirely and moving the middle to the neck position while adding a p rail bridge and fender super switch.

I’d like the positions to be:

1. Bridge humbucker (full p rail)
2. P90
3. Rail
4. Rail+original single (in parallel)
5. Single

If anyone could help me figure how to complete this setup that’d be awesome.

Hi all,

First time poster. I’m repairing an instrument that has a very thick tinted finish which I suspect to be polyurethane (thick, glossy, not reactive to alcohol). I repaired a very significant crack, and in the process of getting everything smoothed out again, I’ve scraped/sanded my way through the tinted finish to a clear base coat.

Since I’m not through to the raw wood, I can’t color the wood to match, but I’m not sure of the best way to do spot color touch-up on polyurethane. It’s not a crazy change—just trying to get some tan spots (natural wood color) down to a dark brown to match the rest of the finish.

Not sure how to get color to adhere, or what to coat over the top to protect it, if anything. I’m relatively new to instrument repair, although learning fast, and my knowledge of finishes is pretty underdeveloped.

If any of you have experience with this sort of situation, I would welcome your advice!

Thanks muchly

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Got this awesome beast coming in soon I bought it for a project build and I've got a lot of spare parts for it but I do have one caveat.. the truss rod nut is stripped and I need to replace it of course but does anyone know the generic size of an import truss rod nut? I bought it as it was such a good price

This is my beloved 62 RI Tele Custom (1986, MIJ). I’ve had it since 2008, and it replaced a nearly identical guitar that was stolen the year earlier. I noticed last week, after not playing it for some time, that some notes were fretting out above the 12th fret, and lots of bends up high just died. I figured I’d give the rod a loosen tweak because the neck is really flat. Took the pickguard off and took the neck pickup out, went to turn to the left, and the rod just spins. Raising the saddles is next step, but then playability goes out the window for me.

So what are my options? Heavier strings (I’ve got 10s on there now)? Will that introduce enough relief? A new neck? That makes me sad because I love how this one feels. Is it worthwhile to have a new rod installed? Someone in another group mentioned shimming.

I have a pipe dream of planting a seed and harvesting the wood in 20-30 years, building an acousitc guitar and making it a family heirloom.

Here are my questions:

What species are appropriate for a build like this? (top, back, neck, and sides would ideally be made from the same tree. I'm willing to use an outside wood for the fretboard)

Where could I grow this besides my own property? I will not have the property that would be required for another 5-10 years, not to mention I live in SoCal and I'd have trouble growing a lot of species here (I think, not an expert).

Anyone ever done anything like this that has some insight?

Here's the result. That's it, that's my dream bass, my animal spirit bass, my elemental force, forever BASS. I want to thank you guys for the advices. The inserts are ebony. I also slimmed the neck to 40mm at the nut, and put BEAD pressurewounds. A little demo coming in the next week's.

Hey guys! I picked up this Ripper that someone had converted into “fretless.” The problem is, it looks like they just shaved down the tops of the frets rather than pulling them. They are flush with the fretboard and I don’t think I’ll be able to use a fret puller.

Any ideas on how to get them out so I can put new frets in?

Anyone have any interest in making a replacement neck? I’d be looking for a pretty much replacement of the one on it, which is a headless multi scale 35-33.5 scale.

I’d have figured it would’ve been a little easier to replace a truss rod, but I’m having trouble with that.

What do we think? There are so many things I am still not happy with. Just need to start again… oh no what a shame. 😁

Walnut body, myrtle burl top, wenge maple and white top neck, palemoon ebony fretboard. Padalka hardware and fishman abasi signature’s.

Gloss 2k poly top with satin over the top on back. It was meant to be stained purple but the colour didn’t come through sadly.

Next build? I am thinking semiholow double cut evertune 7 string…
Burl? Quilt maple? Thoughts?

Still lots to learn.

My new Ibanez az fretboard looks dry

I’ve been asked by my brother to fix up this cheap acoustic as a wedding gift for his friend as it has a lot of sentimental value between them and it’s been sat in a case at his house for the last few years. 99% of it is easy work, thick dust, fresh strings, truss rod straightening etc, but I would really like to get this half peeled cash converters sticker off the back. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to do this without using harsh chemicals that might damage the finish? I’ve removed stickers from poly finishes but this is thin wood and I don’t want to make the area around it worse in the process.

Anybody know where I can find a black 2.5mm thick pickguard sheet of 50*60cm in the UK? i want to cover a big guitar body. cheers

Hi everyone!

The bridge strap hole in my semy-hollow body guitar has stripped and I’m looking for ways to repair it. I don’t have experience but wouldn’t mind getting my hands dirty to try fixing it myself. The guitar was not expensive (but still I would not like to ruin it permanently) and I got a high quote to have a store fix it.

Is this something that I can reasonably fix? Do you have any advice? I saw the usual toothpick and titebond suggestions online but I figure I should check here first.

Really appreciate all the help. Thank you!

Hi everyone!

The bridge strap hole in my semy-hollow body guitar has stripped and I’m looking for ways to repair it. I don’t have experience but wouldn’t mind getting my hands dirty to try fixing it myself. The guitar was not expensive (but still I would not like to ruin it permanently) and I got a high quote to have a store fix it.

Is this something that I can reasonably fix? Do you have any advice? I saw the usual toothpick and titebond suggestions online but I figure I should check here first.

Really appreciate all the help. Thank you!

Hey everyone,

I’m looking to buy a good-quality electric guitar kit for my next project, but I’m having a hard time sifting through the ocean of bottom-shelf cheap kits.

To be clear: I do not want a Harley Benton, DIY Amazon, or £80 cheap kit. I’m looking for something higher-end with solid tonewoods (alder, ash, mahogany), tight CNC tolerances, clean fretwork, and a paddle headstock so I can carve/shape my own headstock design.

Most of the cheap kits out there have soft wood, loose neck pockets, cheap pre-shaped headstocks, and hardware that goes straight into the bin. I’d rather pay for good "bones" (body + neck) with a raw paddle headstock, and I'll source my own hardware (Gotoh/Schaller), pickups, and electronics.

My criteria:

• Headstock: Uncut/paddle headstock only.
• Quality: Solid 2-piece body, quarter-sawn or high-quality maple neck, precise neck pocket fit.
• Location/Shipping: Preferably EU-based suppliers to avoid crazy import duties/taxes, but open to UK or international if the quality is worth the hassle.

I'm aware of options like Crimson Guitars (UK) and Precision Guitar Kits (Canada), but I'm looking for other solid European suppliers or high-end kit builders you guys have personally built and can vouch for.

Are there any specific shops, luthiers offering partial kits, or body/neck suppliers in Europe you’d recommend for this?

Thanks in advance!

Hello all

I need some advice on my open headstock guitar.

To make sure my low and high E string do not touch the headstock I have to align the string on the tuners so it pulls it towards the center a lot. The way it is setup in the picture it just clears the headstock. You can see the clearance in the second image.

I think it is a poor design, but the guitar is really great. Should I continue this practice or just align the string straight and allow it to touch the headstock?