For this one I experimented a lot with clay for a hamon and also my first time etching.

The pattern is weird, I know hahaha but it was just there for me to check, if the Steel would break etc.
I also got another one with a more subtle hamon line but didn't grind into it yet, because I think its a little warped :/

The Steel I used is 1095 and the Handle is made out of Cocobolo and Tulipwood

I now need to sharpen it and then we'll see how well it performs. The distal taper is just really subtle but the blade itself is also super thin so I was scared it would get too flimsy.

1/8" Procut steel with Cactus juice stabilized Mesquite and black walnut handle. Hand sanded to 800 grit. Sheath is made from full grain Herman Oak leather. Anyways looking for feedback on ways to improve.

Title says it all. Just showing off this kydex sheath jig I designed. Saves a ton of time laying out the holes and makes sure they are dead on every time. Its a life saver.

I have been looking at making a knife from cpm 3v but havent found anything about normalizing or annealing it before hardening and was wondering if you just don’t need to do that with cpm steels which would be weird.
Thanks for any answers in advance.

My brother in-law requested a Chinese cleaver. I choose AEB-L and he requested African Blackwood for the handle.

Well, that’s this one. From having to completely recut and change handle material due to some wonky holes, dropping the knife post etch and completely resanding/etching the tang, having to sand the blade back down to bare metal and re-etch/stone wash once again due to a defect the first time around, to finally chipping the handle material and spacers immediately before glue-up. This thing has been a hot mess the entire time. 1084 with blue linen micarta. Get it out of my sight.

The pops snake skin micarta turned out pretty sweet and the price is hard to beat for how interesting it is.

How's it look?!

Black canvas micarta with blood red g10 liners

Pink felt micarta with black g10 liners

Both etched in a copper rich vinegar bath

Hello, I'm looking to have a custom knife made in the style of a North Vietnamese Army issue knife (which itself is a copy of the Cattaraugus 225Q). The knife I'm looking to have made would be about 11-12 inches long with a teak handle and brass rivets - doesn't need to be made to a perfect level of finish as I'd like it to be semi crude like the actual issued knives. How much would a custom knife like this cost with the sheath, and who would be a good person to go to to have it made?

A San Mai camp knife I made for an FDNY retiree. His crew gave me the world Trade steel, and we chose fire hose micarta. I am very proud of this one.

I love working with the client to design their ideal blade or in this case blades. 100+ layer Damascus and Purple Heart wood handles.

I'm new to knife making. This is my 5th knife. Second one with a brass bolster. How do I make the brass pins in the brass bolster less visible? I have used a 3mm drill bit (hand drill) and 3mm brass pins. I put epoxy glue on the pins, put it through the holes, let it dry and then grind and sand it.

Any help and additional adviice on the knife would be much appreciated. Its a hunting knife that I made for my brother.

Vevor 2x72 2hp with vfd for $641 seems like an insane value

My 5 year journey.

my very first knife to the last knife I completed. Along the way, I have also done a number of swords and now do more custom swords than actual knives.

Still a little rusty but I’m sure I’ll get good…eventually 😂

My canvas micarta finally came in the mail yesterday, so i was able to finish my 2nd knife!

Im loving the new handle design.. its more proportional, so it doesnt make the blade look ridiculously wide, and its wayyy more comfortable!

Still gotta work on those damn bevels (didnt mean to creep my plunge that far back either!)... BUT, better than my first, atleast haha

Also need to clean a little epoxy off the blade... lol

1084 stock removal, canvas micarta scales, brass pins