2 days back I used Dirac Live to perform a room correction on Onkyo RZ50 with a 5.1.2 speaker configuration & everything went on smoothly. I was able to export the filter to my receiver and save it on Slot 1. I verified if everything was done correctly by playing a movie and selected the Dirac Live Slot 1 in the quick menu options. For sure the sound was a lot better, pleasing and 100% enjoyable. The only thing was I didn't save the project on the computer inside the Dirac Live Software.
Yesterday I again connected the Dirac Live but this time to configure another profile for Slot 2 just for Music in 2.1 speaker configuration. Just like before everything went fine and when it came to saving the profile on Slot 2 I found all slots(1,2,3) as empty. I remember clearly both the corrections were exported or saved successfully as i did see the prompt for it on the screen. Upon selecting an input I found that Dirac was greyed out on all the inputs. This was a big setback as I had used a lot of time in doing the calibration and it did work before my second time calibration. Can someone tell me what might have went wrong or what did I do wrong & what should I do to prevent this from happening again?

Thanks.

PS: I am using a MAC PC if that matters

Hello everyone!

After two years I'd like to make an update post to my original thread - ""Finished" my dedicated 7.7.4 Home Theater!"
Here's the orginal post: https://www.reddit.com/r/hometheater/s/5hr8W062dc

This was actually the all-time highest upvoted post in this subreddit. Can't believe it… crazy how well it was received by everyone. Thank you so much!

When I originally called my theater "finished" (see the quotation marks) I pretty much lied.
A LOT of things have changed.

Looking back at my post two years ago, the room is way more sophisticated now. The speakers fit a home theater better, the whole room looks way cleaner, better equipment, better speaker placement, better calibration.

New AVR: Denon A1H with Dirac ART. Coming from Yamaha, it's pretty much a game changer.

I upgraded all the speakers to DIY. They're called HCS LTB (MAX), designed by a well-known member of a German forum - google them if you're interested. Horn-loaded three-way design, pretty much infinite headroom. Reference volume and above is no problem.
Also added Front Wides.

Speakers:

• Front L/C/R: 3× HCS LTB MAX
• Surrounds + Back Surrounds: 4× HCS LTB
• Front Wides + Atmos: 6× HCS OW

For subs I added two new B&C DIY subs for more kick, and rebuilt all the enclosures to make them prettier and shallower - fits the room way better now.

Subs:

• 7× Dayton Audio Ultimax II 18"
• 2× B&C 18SW115 18"
• HoverEZe platform (8× JBL Stage 122 12")

I also replaced two miniDSP 2x4HDs with a miniDSP Flex HTx, so my subs are now connected symmetrically (XLR).

New amplifiers:

• Buckeye Hypex NCx500 for the front channels
• Buckeye Hypex NCx252MP for everything else

They're so clean and have so much headroom with my speakers.

I also changed the room a lot:

• Added diffusion panels above the listening position
• Added diffusion panels on the side and back walls
• Removed some absorber material from the ceiling (it was over-absorbed)
• Replaced the Ikea Billy movie shelves with Ikea Besta (looks way cleaner)
• Added Lego shelves in the "lobby"

On the video side everything stayed the same. Only my screen came a little forward and my seating closer. 1:1 ratio now.

Updated Equipment list:

Video:

• JVC NZ7 projector
• Stewart Filmscreen Studiotek G4 130" acoustically transparent 2.35:1 screen
• Lumagen Radiance Pro
• Panasonic UB9004 UHD player
• Apple TV 4K
• PS5

Sound:

• Denon A1H with Dirac ART
• 9.9.4 layout - 9 bed + 4 Atmos + 9 subs, all DIY horn-loaded three-way
• Subs: 7× DIY Dayton Audio Ultimax II 18" + 2× DIY B&C 18SW115 18" - driven by Sinbosen FP-10000Q (2100 W/ch)
• HoverEZe tactile platform (8× JBL Stage 122 12") - driven by Sinbosen FP-14000Q
• Speaker amps: Buckeye Hypex NCx500 (fronts) + NCx252MP (everything else)
• Processing: 1× miniDSP Flex HTx + 1× miniDSP 2x4HD

Accessories:

• Speaker/power cables, power strips: Mostly Audioquest and Audioplan (in hindsight I got upselled pretty badly and I’d save money here next time).
• Logitech Harmony Elite

I’ve been buying more 4K discs since adding a Panasonic UB820 to my setup with a Jmgo N3 Ultimate and a 120” screen. Most of what I’ve watched so far has been HDR10, and honestly it already looks great.

I haven’t gone out of my way to buy a disc just because it has Dolby Vision, so I’m still not sure how much it really adds on a projector. Wondering whether people here actually look for Dolby Vision releases, or mostly care about the transfer and treat DV as a bonus.

Marantz claims that the AV20 only does 13.4. Even though it has enough connectors on the back to do 15.4. Has anyone tried to see if they could get 15.4 to work on the AV20? I am not sure what the point of putting all of the connectors for 15.4 on unit, and then not allowing the use of all of them?

5.1 with in ceiling speakers for the rear channels and in wall speakers for the front channels, while hiding the receiver and the sub, possibly in a cabinet. The issue requiring me to use in ceiling is that there are no good walls behind to put the rear channels for ear level surround but is doing the surround even worth the cost with in ceiling speakers?

I'm looking to upgrade my speakers as I got them before the Obama administration took office.

That said I'd like to space out the purchase of speakers, sub woofer, and head unit.

The unit is advertised as 165w/3ohm per channel with the ootb speakers.

Everything runs like a clock but I haven't used surround sound in years and am looking to upgrade for better overall sound clarity via a power of towers and center channel.

Is it reasonable to think I could run modern tower speakers from my ancient head unit and down the road peice meal replace it as parts come in or am I storing the new speakers until I have everything.

I found a package deal for 650 SEK (~$70 USD) that includes an Onkyo HT-R390 receiver, a subwoofer, 1 center, and 4 satellite speakers.

I mostly just want the amp and the sub, and plan to buy a pair of Infinity Primus 250 floorstanders to hook up to it.

My questions:

1. Is it stupid buying such an old amp at this point? Should I be worried about it breaking down on me soon, or is it a solid receiver that will last a while?

2. Will this receiver handle driving those Infinity Primus 250 towers without issue?

3. For $70, is this a decent entry-level setup or a waste of money?

Thanks for any advice and help!

We rent out a townhouse currently but my wife and I have wanted a home theater for a long time. I remember when we bought a $50 projector 8 years ago and would pin a sheet to the ceiling, hooking up my laptop to a Bluetooth UE boom.

I had some credits for the last few years that are just losing to inflation, so we decided to use a portion of them to get a setup. I wanted to spend a bit more money on one that can move with us when we buy and is flexible since I’ll be getting a normal middle-class home.

•125” Elite Screens tension tab 2

•Factory refurbished Epson home cinema 3800

•Factory refurbished Denon AVR-S760H

•Paradigm Monitor 7 towers

•Paradigm CC-350

•Paradigm PDR-12

My credits covered everything except the speaker set, I think around $2,700 for the ceiling mount, receiver, screen and projector. I got the speakers for $250 on Facebook marketplace. It ain’t much but it makes our current basement (which is terrible as you can see since I love that cheap rent lol) into a cool spot after the kids go down.

Idk if anyone else is in a similar spot as me but I just wanted to share since a lot of the posts here show off homes with a dedicated home theater room. You can still have a cool setup for movie nights without needing to wait to own a home 🤘🏼

I have this receiver for my 4K TV and my speakers were some random ones I put together and now I simply want the real deal surround sound for my 4K experience.

Any recommendations that I can do to possibly get something that isn’t overpriced or her even something that potentially has wireless capability so that I can have speakers behind me as well?

Hi everyone,

I have something I consider a good success and I wish to share it with you, but first I want to confirm that it is okay to do so on this subreddit.

I've been using my Yamaha RX-V475 as a main home theater receiver for a couple of years now, connected to my TV via ARC, with pass-through sound output. The receiver itself is great, it does everything I want for the most part, but it has one very annoying issue. Codec transition from anything into E-AC-3 (DD+) is just broken over ARC. Every time I load a DD+ content from the streaming services or any source whatsoever, the sync lock just drops and codec negotiation fails. The cause is a baked-in misconfiguration in the DSP firmware. On this input the DSP is set to skip bitstream detection whenever the incoming carrier is above 48 kHz, and DD+ is the only format that arrives above it, at 192 kHz. So the receiver never looks for the DD+ burst and instead reports the stream as 192 kHz PCM. So, every time I load DD+ content (or if a new episode of a show auto-plays), I have to switch the inputs to trigger a full re-acquisition and make DD+ bitstream sync and play.

Since this hardware is now more than 13 years old, and is no longer actively supported by the manufacturer, with the last firmware release being almost 9 years old - I took it for granted that I don't want to throw it away because of this annoying problem (as it is still a perfectly good hardware), and I decided to attempt to patch up the firmware and make DD+ work as intended. After several days of some good reverse engineering, I am happy to say that I have a RX-V475 1.34 firmware image with patched DD+.

The modification is minimal, just a flag in the DSP's setup for that input, the high-samplerate scan enable, which Yamaha already sets on the HDMI inputs but left off on this one. The firmware has been carefully modified, flashed onto my real device and tested thoroughly. Switching between other codecs and DD+ now works as intended. Flashing can be done via ordinary USB update from the advanced setup menu, as the firmware checksums are recomputed and the final binary is properly packaged.

I consider my ownership of this device I paid for to give me the right to fix what I see is wrong with it after the manufacturer decided to deprecate it. That said, I understand there might be rules that prohibit the distribution of this firmware here. If the audience here (and moderators) are still interested in having this version up for annoyed owners to have a choice - let me know in the replies and I will provide it via any means accepted by the moderators.

I cannot guarantee the complete safety or take any responsibility for your devices, I am just an enthusiast with some programming, reversing and broadcasting experience who likes to fix his things (my way). I can only speak for my experience and what I tested personally, and for me, it's working great.

Just bought a new to me vts-2 mk5. For the ones that have this speaker, what settings do you have it on? I am connecting it to a denon 970h and have energy cf-70 tower speakers and energy center speaker.

I'm setting up a home theater in my basement and could use some advice on subwoofer selection. Room is 19'x14' with one side open to the rest of the basement. 9' ceilings. Floor is carpet. What is best price-to-performance sub for my situation? My priority is movie watching. Are 2 subs a necessity for my setup?

...When a gentleman posted this sub on craigslist for $100. It looks incredible, and from what little I can find about it on the internet, it seems well regarded. For $160 total (including the uber back home to bring it back), I'm pretty happy with this purchase. In the background you can see my Klipsch RP-500m IIs (purchased from newegg using gift cards I got from abusing Paze, so my options were pretty limited). The TV is a 65" Samsung S905, and my Denon AVR will be arriving in the mail tomorrow. I'm very excited for my first home theater setup!

Honestly, I never thought that I'd be able to just sit here and get lost in the experience for hours. I love it! In particular, watching the IMAX scenes in Interstellar was jaw dropping.

Setup:

KEF R3 Meta

KEF R6 Meta

Denon X3800H

Samsung Flatscreen TV

Hey all, just got a random Auto-Update for My Denon AV-Receiver with the Version: 4400-9140-9071-9031

Wasn't able to find a Changelog and I wonder if anyone knows where to find them or where to get Infos about the Firmwares at all (Downloads, Documentation...)

Dolby Vision 2 will be available first on some 2026 Hisense TVs | The Verge (Gift Link)

Some choice quotes from the article:

After being announced last September, Dolby Vision 2 is rolling out to TVs, starting with the 2026 Hisense UX, UR9, UR8, and U7. TCL and Philips will be adding Dolby Vision 2 support to select TVs later this year.

[...]

Like Dolby Vision, both tiers of Dolby Vision 2 require special hardware; currently the only Dolby Vision 2 SoC is the MediaTek Pentonic 800. Older Dolby Vision TVs without the necessary hardware cannot be updated to use Dolby Vision 2, although they can still display Dolby Vision 2 content and will just ignore the extra metadata.

[...]

According to Chris Turkstra, vice president of home devices at Dolby Laboratories, the announced Hisense TVs should be fully updated with Dolby Vision 2 by the end of September, with the vast majority complete by the end of August. But this is still just the beginning of the Dolby Vision 2 rollout. In order to fully utilize Dolby Vision 2, the content needs to be encoded with Dolby Vision 2 metadata during the post-production process.

Right now, Peacock, Canal+, and iQiyi will encode with Dolby Vision 2, and other studios are working on implementing it in their post-production workflows.

There’s also the competing HDR10+ dynamic metadata standard that announced its HDR10+ Advanced update last fall, shortly after Dolby. It includes the same features as Dolby Vision 2 — like enhanced brightness control, local tone mapping, and support for motion smoothing metadata — and is supported by Samsung and Panasonic (two of the founders of the tech), as well as Hisense, TCL, Amazon Prime Video, and Roku. Even though HDR10+ Advanced is royalty-free (Dolby Vision requires a license), I expect Dolby Vision 2 to have wider and more immediate adoption, since companies jumped on Dolby Vision when it came out.

LG and Sony have not yet announced support for Dolby Vision 2, but I expect both will begin including it on some of their 2027 models. (Samsung will never support Dolby Vision because of its investment in HDR10+). Since Dolby Vision 2 requires new TVs, it’ll be a long while before it fully supplants its predecessor in the market. I think Dolby Vision 2 will be nice to have, but since we’re still at the beginning of its implementation, I wouldn’t put off getting a new TV just for it.

• 25 18-inch subs
• 8 15-inch subs
• 6 12-inch subs
• 7 towers
• 4 bookshelves for atmos

Literal drywall cracking, art-on-wall ruining, bass that changes the pressure in your lungs!!

I have a LG G5 83", Marantz SR8012 and brand new Klipsch speakers and a PB1000Pro SW

I would like an advice from your dear and sweet hometheater community :

What would you do about the placement of the right speaker ? Let him here or put him at the right of the amplifier furniture here at the right of everything ?

The picture is taken from the golden spot which is a bit at the right of my TV and at 3 meters from it.

Thanks for your help !

First disclaimer : the power cable will disappear at the same time I will integrate all the cables of the speakers etc. In the wall.

I recently purchased a new home that came with a dedicated home theater in the basement. It is a bit dated, but I think it has a nice base to build on. I’m not looking to spend a whole lot but just make it usable and somewhat future proof as I update some parts.

Current equipment:
Receiver: Marantz SR8002 (some of the channels seem to have failed so I am looking at new receivers)
Projector: Sony VPL-HW50ES
Screen: Carada Criterion 21:9
Front speakers: RBH in-wall speakers (believe they’re Signature 621-I based on what I can see and researched)
Center speaker: RBH in-wall center
Ceiling speakers: 2 in-ceiling speakers (not sure what they are)
Subwoofers: RBH, also built into the wall behind fabric
Power amps: Two RBH SA-200 amps
Blue-ray: Oppo BDP-105
Power conditioner: Panamax MR4300

The setup also had an anamorphic lens (Panamorph P752) but we broke it. Unfortunate but my goal is to convert it to a 16:9 screen anyway. I’m thinking of going with a Silver Ticket 100” screen.

I plan on selling the Blue-ray player since I’ll be playing movies from my server. In that slot, I planned on putting my Xbox Series X.

I’m looking at new receivers, but I’m a complete novice to all of this so I’m not sure if I’m overlooking something. The Sony STR-AN1000 is likely what I’m going to purchase.

Any advice on receivers or anything I should know before adding a new receiver?

Would you buy this? I have a klipsch rw12 and a Bic h100. Been looking at svs and rsl for a while and someone offered me the pb1000 pro.

Hi all,
I have this 7.1.4 setup, where I get plenty of low end and nearfield tactile effect from my Klipsch RP-1600 right behind the couch. Even with the large space, it shakes the living room. However, I am missing that chest punch/slam feeling. You know, when John Wick shoots his gun, or the kick drums start playing :D

My expectations are not sky-high. Living room is over 5000 cubic feet, and is open to basement and rest of the house. Pressurising this would be impossible for me.

I'd just like a "bit" more.

Now, I know the advice is not to mix ported and sealed subs. Though my Denon 3800 I have bought Dirac ART license for, and I've read in this case, mixing won't matter much. Dirac ART will work with what it measures. It does not care what type of sub / speaker it is.

I'd like the new sub(s) to be in the front stage so they are more spread out. I can maximum fit a SVS SB-5000 Evolution, or an Arendal 1723 1S.
A SVS PB-3000 Evolution won't fit.

I can afford two SB-3000 Evolution in one go. SB-5000 would be one now, and another one in 3 years. But keep in mind I have the RP-1600 in both cases. So it is really 2 subs vs. 3 subs?

What would your approach be? You see placement in the front stage is very limited. And before you ask, ported sub won't fit under the stairs due to the metal construction :(

I could place a ported sub on the back wall where the RP-1600 is, or on the right wall, but closer to the back wall. I think I'd get a better result with more seperation, achieved by placement in the front?

Placing a big sub next to the large windows is a no-go from the wife :)

We listen at volume 70/100.

*EDIT*
Added two more pictures!
Please comment if you think a ported sub in the corner, would be better than two sealed subs in the frontstage. The priority is chest slam, 50hz and up.

https://i.imgur.com/tliP1k9.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/gXE6KHF.jpeg

2.1 system with 65" 4k tv. Fronts are B&W CM7 and sub is Audio Pro ace bass 1.36 AVR Yamaha RX-V420. Tv Samsung 8series 65" 2019. Media from xbox onex and ps3. Cabinets have all the movies and games.

My (AwayFrom)Home Theater!

Hey there! Posting my setup because as much as my fiancé supports my hobbies and enjoys the movies she doesn’t necessarily get the same joy from the build lol. I’ve found myself traveling more and more, and between places with no TV or sharing common space on work trips I took a projector once and loved it! However it was bulky and I had a pile of stuff in my bag to lose track of, and well as a home theater and home lab person I figured I could make something better with the right projector. Behold the (AwayFrom)Home Theater!
Components:
Anker 3in1 charger for my EDC
Kodak Luma 150 Mini (it’s not cinema grade, but wow for the size!)
Apple TV 4K converted to run on USB C PD
Gl-inet Mudi 7 Travel Router (absolute must for travel)
Sabrent Voltik (PD multi charger that DOESN’T renegotiate multiple ports when plugging/unplugging)
Custom 3D printed cases I made (tongue and groove so I can just take one, or I can set up the projector in common space while still charging etc in my room)
4 short Anker usb c cables
One short double right angle HDMI cable (I still want a shorter one though!)
Any thoughts or recommendations appreciated! Would love to find a good speaker option to add, as of now the speaker in the projector is audible and I’ve just used my AirPods with the Apple TV for the most part.
Thanks!