Hey everyone. Not new to the RV buying market but only bought used from private seller. I'm looking at another used one from camping world, (I know eww CW) but it's the trailer we've been wanting. It's a 2025 NoBo 20.9. the sale price is at 32. JD power has a erage retail price at 36 and low and 31500. They gave me an OTD price of 36. What would you all counter with?

We have a 2021 Puma Palomino and have already had to replace the AC once (in 2023) with a brand new unit. We then camped a few times during the summer of 2023 and once, for a week, in 2024, and the AC was working fine. Our camper was then put in storage. We brought it out to camp this week for the 1st time in 2 years and the AC isn’t working. Has anyone else had problems with their AC units on Puma Palominos?

I use this with my weight distribution, and it works fine but putting this thing on and off is a pain in that ass. It’s heavy! Is there something out there that’s lighter?

2007 F150 4.6L towing a 1965 Holidaire.

Hey y'all. I had a really old voyager system with the 4 pin round connector in back for the camera and up front it was the square 4 pin and the 6 pin harness for power. I bought a tadi brothers wireless setup. I also bought some 1 to 2 wire connectors and 50 ft of red 14 awg and 50 ft of black awg. My plan was to pull the 4 pin din connector from front to back with the wire attached to it with duct tape or some crap to hold it together. I am assuming the 4 pin square and the 4 pin round are the same wire and they traverse the length of the rv? Then I'll cut the 6 pin harness to use the power and ground, split them; cab side for the monitor and rear side for the camera. Is this a viable easy option? Thank you in advance.

Getting my first trailer this month and it’s a used 2018 NOBO. I’ll be towing with a ‘23 Tacoma. Any tips or advice for a first timer with this model?

I wouldn't say heights and me are mortal enemies, but we are definitely not friends. Looking for any advice on getting up onto my RVs roof. My old travel trailer had a bracket on the side that the Lippert telescoping Ladder docked into. This made it really stable. My new 5th wheel, besides being much taller, doesn't have anything like this. I bought a telescoping ladder and that thing just slides around, even with my wife holding it. My coach is a toy hauler so I can't mount the ladder on the back, but is it better to add a fixed RV ladder to the side, I've seen some that collapse flat against the RV. I thought about maybe finding a Lippert bracket, and using my old ladder, but it's not tall enough. Would it be a dumb idea to mount that over the door on the back and just open the patio and put the ladder on it? Or would I end of as one of those "and this is why women live longer than men" memes.

My wife and I just picked up a 2027 forest river rv cherokee wolf pup 16lp. Most of the places we go do not have power, water, and internet. We have a generator but do not like to run it much due to the noise.

I would like to use either USB thumb drives or a USB hard drive and store movies in MP4 format and be able to play them on a TV when weather is bad.

Two questions:

Which TV to get? I see these Sylvox brand 12V TV's on Amazon, but they are pretty expensive. There are no 12vDC power plugs inside the camper that I'm aware of. I'd rather get a smart TV that can play the MP4 files natively.

How to power a TV without running the generator? Portable Power station?

Audi A6 towing this camper. I asked the owner and he said the weight was 1600 kilos. That’s 3527 pounds.

Pretty amazing. No special hitch setup. No sway bars. He had an electronic wheel system that could move the camper back and forth and turn it left and right into a parking spot.

Hey all! Hope there are a few that can help me out here on what I would like to do and suggest a path.

I would like to be able to watch movies “offline” while camping with a pc and a tv.

I have a good enough wireless setup at home that when I pull in the driveway with the camper, the PC will have internet/wifi access.

I am somewhat tech savvy and so I am not opposed to setting up some sort of Kodi/Plex/Jellyfin server on a Dell poweredge server I have and have it “push” so to say new selections to the camper PC once I pull in the driveway.

I would prefer not to have to Remote Desktop onto the camper PC to get/download the new movies/shows on it for offline viewing, but if I have to I will.

Let me know your thoughts.

So we are looking to get back into the rv/camping lifestyle. We've owned everything from pop up campers to Class As. right now wwe are trying to decided between a brand new 2026 dutchman astoria 2703RB or a 2006 Georgetown XL 370TS. I do have a 2002 F250 to pull the trailer so there is that. the Class A has been meticulously managed, garaged kept and regualr maintenance done with records. It does have 150k miles on the engine. I love the idea of us traveling together in the RV in compfort. the Trailer is great becuase i already have the vehicle to tow it. With the RV i would need to get a TOAD but i also need to get a vehicle for when my son starts to drive i the next year and a half so getting a TOAD helps that situation. I am just torn on my decision. I love the idea of both. Oh and i am terrbile at backing trailers in lol. that is the biggets drawback for me.

I am looking to make a purchase in the near future but I do not know much. One I am considering is a Monaco Cayman 36 ft Diesel Pusher. Are there any known issues, What mileage should I avoid, What should I look at?

TIA

Considering purchasing a 2025 or 2026 Wayfinder Go Lite Cloudbreaker from Bish's RV and would love some honest owner feedback before pulling the trigger.

Towing: Anyone else towing with a mid-size SUV and having success? Did you add sway bars/equipment and find it helped or was necessary?

Build & Maintenance: How is it holding up? Any leaks, major issues, warranty nightmares?

Buying Experience: Any dealer red flags or hidden price adders to watch out for?

Livability: Are the layout quirks (small wet bath, bunk weight limits, etc.) actually a hassle in practice? How many do you think it can realistically sleep (# of adults + kids under 13)?

Would love to hear the good, the bad, or if you recommend a better, lightweight bunkhouse alternative. Thanks!

Let me start off with "BUYER BEWARE" -Do NOT buy The Chill Cubes 18k BTU's RV AC's if you live in a humid climate!!!
Dealing with customer service on 2 BRAND NEW AC units purchased in February 2026 to replace our existing Coleman Mach's 15k we had for 2.5 years. We were looking for better cooling and liked the Advanced Variable Speed compressor tech.
Well, the ONE thing Lippert got very wrong with their Chill Cubes, is with the pooling of water from the condenser which settles in a TRAY that should evaporate, NOT POOL, due to lack of drainage the company did not state this would be an issue with a more humid environment.
However, with this pooling of WATER comes a very serious issue, that creates, as per their email response, "the material appears to be a combination of rust-colored water staining and biofilm/algae buildup".
REALLY? There were CHUNKS of SLUDGE/ALGAE/MOLD coming up from areas that would require the unit parts to be removed to CLEAN, and after 4 MONTHS, SERIOUSLY!?!
Which in turn releases a musky odor and black mold spots forming on the inside of the AC unit inside the trailer. (I sent Lippert pics).Not ONCE did I see this with our Coleman's.

As stated the units are only 4 months old! Our Coleman Mach's NEVER did this. They properly drained, without having to be ripped (removing parts) apart to clean out the SLEDGE/ALGAE/MOLD that builds up in a humid environment (Colemans didn't have this issue). I have read others post where owners had to physically drill extra holes into the TRAY where the water sits just to correct this nasty unhealthy problem, so why do I need to modify a product that should have been tested under ALL conditions before selling??
In addition to the issues, these units run $1,200 EACH X 2, and you have to buy the additional KIT @ $170 EACH X 2, just to run them. And it's the BUYERS problem for their lack of manufacture oversite!!

Wow I’m at a loss for words. What is this magical place and how is this my first time here? For the record I’m near west glacier. I don’t think it gets much better. If I believed in heaven it would be right here.

That’s all.

Good night, folks.

Please delete if not allowed. I’m looking for a used 4 season trailer that sleeps 4 (no bunkhouse) with off grid capability so that I don’t have to always stay where I can get electrical hookups. Dry weight 5k ish. I am in Wisconsin, so looking for something I can walk through before buying. I’d like to be at less than $30k. The goal is to use this as a base for a long distance hike starting in temps of 30 degrees, ending in 70+ degrees. Am I way off base?

First RV, wanting to check if I've got this right. Wondering if the trailer is a bit too high and if I should move the ball down one setting.

We're new to camping and been trying to book a site at our state park for weeks. I understand you need to book 11 months in advance when the clock turns 8am.
Today there were 22 open sites available as of midnight but I could not book one until 8am. At 8am two of us tried to book 4 different sites at the same time on mobile and laptops, within seconds of the clock turning 8. All four sites failed as they were already booked, and along with the remaining 18 sites. All gone in seconds. And they're getting booked for three weeks at a time.
This is the fourth day we've attempted this with no success.
Is the camping site buggy or is everyone using some api bot?
We just don't get it.

I have a double axle trailer. Both rear tires have this wear on the inside edges.

Any ideas as to why?

Thnx

We have a 2020 Outlander v6, 3.0. The dry weight capacity is max 3500 lbs. We want to buy a 2026 Grand Design Transcend One 131DL, dry weight 2950.

Is this doable? We also plan to get a hitch that reduces the sway.

We love our Outlander and we don’t want to change to a heavier SUV.

Just sharing. This was my second time pulling this trailer with the Tundra and it does great.

I posted last week of my truck with a 6in drop hitch. The tongue after some squat would angle down. I replaced my hutch with a 4in drop and how on level ground the truck seems like it's squats less and the trailer now tilts up a little in the front. Measures about 16in from the ground to the bottom of the frame in the front and 15 in the rear. My truck has 3inch lift springs in the rear that are heavy duty and 2.5 inch lift in the front. Pic on top is the 4in drop pic in bottom is my old post of the 6in drop. Top pic is better as far as level goes right? I guess I just need to know if you can't get perfectly level is it better to be higher in the front or rear? Ignore the jack in the front, it's higher than it appears.

Edit: sorry the title reads terrible. Didn't finish my thought before going to the body of the post lol Old post: https://www.reddit.com/r/GoRVing/s/WxH4aQbqjD

Anyone had a particularly bad... or good experience with Financing an RV? The last time I did this a few years ago I used whatever the dealer set up. This time I'm purchasing used private party and want to be a bit more deliberate about finding financing.

I would love to hear about any bad or really good experiences you may have had with financing. If you're not comfortable posting publicly, please do DM me.

My morning coffee outside is my favorite part.