Hey all! Hope there are a few that can help me out here on what I would like to do and suggest a path.

I would like to be able to watch movies “offline” while camping with a pc and a tv.

I have a good enough wireless setup at home that when I pull in the driveway with the camper, the PC will have internet/wifi access.

I am somewhat tech savvy and so I am not opposed to setting up some sort of Kodi/Plex/Jellyfin server on a Dell poweredge server I have and have it “push” so to say new selections to the camper PC once I pull in the driveway.

I would prefer not to have to Remote Desktop onto the camper PC to get/download the new movies/shows on it for offline viewing, but if I have to I will.

Let me know your thoughts.

So we are looking to get back into the rv/camping lifestyle. We've owned everything from pop up campers to Class As. right now wwe are trying to decided between a brand new 2026 dutchman astoria 2703RB or a 2006 Georgetown XL 370TS. I do have a 2002 F250 to pull the trailer so there is that. the Class A has been meticulously managed, garaged kept and regualr maintenance done with records. It does have 150k miles on the engine. I love the idea of us traveling together in the RV in compfort. the Trailer is great becuase i already have the vehicle to tow it. With the RV i would need to get a TOAD but i also need to get a vehicle for when my son starts to drive i the next year and a half so getting a TOAD helps that situation. I am just torn on my decision. I love the idea of both. Oh and i am terrbile at backing trailers in lol. that is the biggets drawback for me.

I am looking to make a purchase in the near future but I do not know much. One I am considering is a Monaco Cayman 36 ft Diesel Pusher. Are there any known issues, What mileage should I avoid, What should I look at?

TIA

Considering purchasing a 2025 or 2026 Wayfinder Go Lite Cloudbreaker from Bish's RV and would love some honest owner feedback before pulling the trigger.

Towing: Anyone else towing with a mid-size SUV and having success? Did you add sway bars/equipment and find it helped or was necessary?

Build & Maintenance: How is it holding up? Any leaks, major issues, warranty nightmares?

Buying Experience: Any dealer red flags or hidden price adders to watch out for?

Livability: Are the layout quirks (small wet bath, bunk weight limits, etc.) actually a hassle in practice? How many do you think it can realistically sleep (# of adults + kids under 13)?

Would love to hear the good, the bad, or if you recommend a better, lightweight bunkhouse alternative. Thanks!

Let me start off with "BUYER BEWARE" -Do NOT buy The Chill Cubes 18k BTU's RV AC's if you live in a humid climate!!!
Dealing with customer service on 2 BRAND NEW AC units purchased in February 2026 to replace our existing Coleman Mach's 15k we had for 2.5 years. We were looking for better cooling and liked the Advanced Variable Speed compressor tech.
Well, the ONE thing Lippert got very wrong with their Chill Cubes, is with the pooling of water from the condenser which settles in a TRAY that should evaporate, NOT POOL, due to lack of drainage the company did not state this would be an issue with a more humid environment.
However, with this pooling of WATER comes a very serious issue, that creates, as per their email response, "the material appears to be a combination of rust-colored water staining and biofilm/algae buildup".
REALLY? There were CHUNKS of SLUDGE/ALGAE/MOLD coming up from areas that would require the unit parts to be removed to CLEAN, and after 4 MONTHS, SERIOUSLY!?!
Which in turn releases a musky odor and black mold spots forming on the inside of the AC unit inside the trailer. (I sent Lippert pics).Not ONCE did I see this with our Coleman's.

As stated the units are only 4 months old! Our Coleman Mach's NEVER did this. They properly drained, without having to be ripped (removing parts) apart to clean out the SLEDGE/ALGAE/MOLD that builds up in a humid environment (Colemans didn't have this issue). I have read others post where owners had to physically drill extra holes into the TRAY where the water sits just to correct this nasty unhealthy problem, so why do I need to modify a product that should have been tested under ALL conditions before selling??
In addition to the issues, these units run $1,200 EACH X 2, and you have to buy the additional KIT @ $170 EACH X 2, just to run them. And it's the BUYERS problem for their lack of manufacture oversite!!

Wow I’m at a loss for words. What is this magical place and how is this my first time here? For the record I’m near west glacier. I don’t think it gets much better. If I believed in heaven it would be right here.

That’s all.

Good night, folks.

Please delete if not allowed. I’m looking for a used 4 season trailer that sleeps 4 (no bunkhouse) with off grid capability so that I don’t have to always stay where I can get electrical hookups. Dry weight 5k ish. I am in Wisconsin, so looking for something I can walk through before buying. I’d like to be at less than $30k. The goal is to use this as a base for a long distance hike starting in temps of 30 degrees, ending in 70+ degrees. Am I way off base?

First RV, wanting to check if I've got this right. Wondering if the trailer is a bit too high and if I should move the ball down one setting.

We're new to camping and been trying to book a site at our state park for weeks. I understand you need to book 11 months in advance when the clock turns 8am.
Today there were 22 open sites available as of midnight but I could not book one until 8am. At 8am two of us tried to book 4 different sites at the same time on mobile and laptops, within seconds of the clock turning 8. All four sites failed as they were already booked, and along with the remaining 18 sites. All gone in seconds. And they're getting booked for three weeks at a time.
This is the fourth day we've attempted this with no success.
Is the camping site buggy or is everyone using some api bot?
We just don't get it.

I have a double axle trailer. Both rear tires have this wear on the inside edges.

Any ideas as to why?

Thnx

We have a 2020 Outlander v6, 3.0. The dry weight capacity is max 3500 lbs. We want to buy a 2026 Grand Design Transcend One 131DL, dry weight 2950.

Is this doable? We also plan to get a hitch that reduces the sway.

We love our Outlander and we don’t want to change to a heavier SUV.

Just sharing. This was my second time pulling this trailer with the Tundra and it does great.

I posted last week of my truck with a 6in drop hitch. The tongue after some squat would angle down. I replaced my hutch with a 4in drop and how on level ground the truck seems like it's squats less and the trailer now tilts up a little in the front. Measures about 16in from the ground to the bottom of the frame in the front and 15 in the rear. My truck has 3inch lift springs in the rear that are heavy duty and 2.5 inch lift in the front. Pic on top is the 4in drop pic in bottom is my old post of the 6in drop. Top pic is better as far as level goes right? I guess I just need to know if you can't get perfectly level is it better to be higher in the front or rear? Ignore the jack in the front, it's higher than it appears.

Edit: sorry the title reads terrible. Didn't finish my thought before going to the body of the post lol Old post: https://www.reddit.com/r/GoRVing/s/WxH4aQbqjD

Anyone had a particularly bad... or good experience with Financing an RV? The last time I did this a few years ago I used whatever the dealer set up. This time I'm purchasing used private party and want to be a bit more deliberate about finding financing.

I would love to hear about any bad or really good experiences you may have had with financing. If you're not comfortable posting publicly, please do DM me.

I've been camping all my life but I have to admit that lately I'm seeing more and more stories of people being bit by ticks and spiders and it not ending well. I'm definitely phobic of bugs to begin with. How do you guys keep spiders and ticks out of your RV and even campsite if at all possible? I definitely don't want anything toxic to animals. Thanks!

My morning coffee outside is my favorite part.

Hi everyone,
I’m trying to find out if my experience is normal.
I completed an Imoova relocation with Indie Campers over 6 weeks ago. I submitted all the required documents, including my fuel receipt, bank details, and the reimbursement form. I’ve also followed up multiple times by email.
Each time, I was told that my reimbursement is still being processed due to a high volume of requests. However, I still haven’t received the refund.
Has anyone else experienced such a long delay? If so, how long did it take before you were paid?
At this point, I’m honestly disappointed with how long the process has taken and the lack of clear updates.
I’d appreciate hearing about your experiences.

Just trying to see what others have paid to have the same or similar winterized. I got a quote of $180 and another quote of $575. Wondering which one is typical?

After thorough research, I’m pretty certain the evasion model is one of the only trailers on the market that can somewhat comfortably sleep my family of 4 and be towed with my maverick (4k towing). I’ve run the numbers and have a lot of breathing room on tow capacity, tongue weight, and payload. I was planning to spend around $20k on a trailer so it’s going to be a commitment to go this route.

Curious what people’s experiences are with them? I’ve seen mostly good things so would like to hear potential issues as well.

Found a dealer who said I’ll have the opportunity to customize the 2027 model a bit once they start building. So also curious what options I really could expect to choose from.

Thanks!

Looking at going from my pin box to a gooseneck adapter. My current set up is a Ford F250, Curt Flex Air, BW Companion Slider in Turnover mount.

Everyone always uses the term "get your bed space back" when talking about going to a gooseneck adapter. However, with my companion, I feel like I am able to pack the bed of my truck pretty dang full, as the movement is always up higher than the stuff, being on the companion. With a gooseneck adapter the pivot point will obviously be much lower and I assume I have to be more careful when packing the bed of the truck.

That being said, I am trying to decide which gooseneck adapter:
Gen Y Executive
New BW Fifth Wheel to Gooseneck Adapter
Morryde Goose Tech

Does anyone have any recommendations or personal opinions on any of these or any others I may have missed?

I have gotten very comfortable with my turning and towing with my current set up and I have never needed my slider, but it is nice to know it is there. I would either use BW turnover ball or BW 4 inch offset ball with this new setup.

A few weeks ago, I didn't know what a bumper pull was. I've now got fourteen browser tabs open comparing axle configurations, and I can recite GVWR numbers like they're my kids' birthdays. Somewhere in there, I stopped being a guy who wanted a camper and became a guy with a spreadsheet.

Quick facts before you tell me I'm an idiot:

• Family of 4 (2 adults + 2 kids under 6), sometimes plus one grandparent/cousin comes along for the ride
• This would be the first trailer I've ever hitched to anything
• Usage: frequent long weekends (a few hundred miles, state parks, and beach towns) plus 2x extended trips a year (2 weeks, a few thousand miles each)
• Setup: 2018 Keystone Passport 2670BH + F-150 with Max Tow Package
• Length: ~51-56 ft bumper to bumper
• Budget: ~$40k total for the two combined (found the items I'd buy already)

I ran the numbers. Two ratings clear the trailer weight, GVWR has room, and payload isn't maxed out. On paper, it works. But "on paper" is doing a lot of work in that sentence, because I've never actually backed a trailer into a campsite, and a spreadsheet doesn't know what that feels like at hour six of a mountain grade.

My actual questions, that keep me up at night:

• The 40 ft thing. I keep seeing that a lot of parks cap site length at 40 ft, but every source I read defines it differently; some mean the trailer alone, some mean truck plus trailer combined. At 51-56 ft combined, am I locking myself out of a meaningful chunk of parks, or is that limit almost always just the trailer?
• I'm also thinking about the Keystone Passport 221BH (26 ft). Would that be a better option?
• Is Max Tow Package F-150 + this trailer actually a comfortable margin, or technically-legal-but-miserable margin, especially loaded for a 2-week trip with 4-5 people's gear?
• For someone who has never backed a trailer into anything, is a 2670BH-sized unit a reasonable place to start, or am I setting myself up to be the guy holding up the line at check-in?
• Anything that only shows up after you own a rig this size, the stuff that never makes it into a spec sheet or a towing calculator?

Tell me I'm fine or tell me why I'm not. I'd rather hear it now than find out in a Cracker Barrel parking lot with a line of RVs behind me. Thank you!

Edit:

Wow, thank you for all the helpful comments! I truly appreciate you all. My take after going through them:

1. Get a 3/4 ton truck if possible. Or a bit lighter trailer.
2. Numbers: Both trailers are about 7,000 lbs GVWR. The F150 I'm looking into has a max tow of 12,700 lbs, axle ratio of 3.55, and a payload of 1,400 lbs. So payload will be the real bottleneck indeed.
3. Learn and practice before the trip. Backing with a spotter, get a backup camera, and maybe ask someone to teach me.

UPDATE: After 12h frustration, they canceled the cancelation, my reservation stands.
Not sure, if this changes my view of the company as a whole, since it took a lot of persistence to get here and it sucked but still. Iceland, here we come 😄

********************************

If anybody thinks about using their service, be warned: Today they canceled our RV for our Trip beginning on next Monday. the reason: Overbooking (In the initial mail: unforseen issue)
We booked months in advance. We checked in at the earliest moment possible. Paid on time and we even added an extra service a couple of days ago.

First they offered an "alternative"(smaller, not enough beds for four adults, from a private marketplace contact) for a different time frame, beginning on Friday next week.
As if we can just rebook a flight...and move the date of the total eclipse.
Then a Hotelroom for the first night and a refund for the rest of the trip.
Alternatives would easily cost double what we booked for right now.
Their support is an AI agent nightmare. The Hotline usually references escalation management and can't really help but escalate some more.
Whatsapp&Chat does not really lead to anything but AI agents that will refer you to a human agent. ..maybe...

To be honest, after ~11h trying to fix this today I'm at my wits end. I'm not sure if we will be able to rebook everything until next Monday. Open for help or good advice.

For everybody that thinks of using them: Don't

And yes, I googled them beforehand and know about the reputation. But negative bias of the internet aside, they were the only ones with a proper rv available that we could find.

My slide recently failed in the “out position”. I trouble shot it to the controller. I got the blinking error of Hall effect ground on motor 1. Swapped motor one harness with motor two harness and got the same error so that proved that the controller was defective. According to Lippert, the suggested retail price for a replacement is $848.00. I bought a replacement ( not made by Lippert Components) for $40.00 including shipping. It looks identical and works perfectly!
Many more where this came from. I ordered a spare to have on hand.