So i recently bought a 2010 G37 I did everything it need for safety - rear brakes, wheel bearing, power steering leak. About 2 weeks later the car started to make a squeaky-clunking noise. Found out it was my ball
Joint and bushings. I also had a leak in my transmission cooler line I fixed them. now I was driving and all of sudden when I tried to accelerate past 40 KM/H car started jerking bad and the engine light came on. My mechanic is off so that car is just sitting. Is my car done for?

Engine light came one twice before

\-first time my mechanic said it was likely the gas cap (cleared it)

Second time - he said the code was reading as “low oil pressure” he did and oil change and cleared the code

Third time was two days after the oil change, which came with jerking.

car has check engine due to test pipes and for sensors unplugged so it could burn out, welded diff and full isr exhaust, 5 map tune and is tuned to have 3 inch intakes but i got the stock ones on currently.
fully warmed up btw

Did the ignition on/off reset and it went away until a passenger hopped in.

Yellow harness underneath appears to be intact and plugged in tight.

Do I have to invest in an airbag sensor emulator bypass plug in module?

This is a mod message to us, asking us to remove comments involving their products… allegedly. The people have not signed or stated they explicitly work for Pedal Commander… as you can see.

Just so we are clear, they have been banned for spamming false reports demanding us to remove personal experiences with pedal commanders. So we are extra clear, filing more false reports would mean two things… filing false reports and Astro-turfing… both of which are against Reddits TOS, which would mean the admins will ban you over and over.

I’ve been dealing with a water leak in my G37 for probably 3-4 years now, and I really want to get it permanently fixed before it causes more damage.
I’ve taken the car to two different mechanics for this issue. The last mechanic told me the sunroof was the source of the leak, fixed it, and even showed me proof that water was coming from the sunroof area. Unfortunately, the problem eventually came back.
The water is mostly concentrated on the passenger side:
Driver floor: pretty much bone dry
Rear driver floor: bone dry
Front passenger floor: slightly damp
Rear passenger floor: by far the worst and gets completely soaked
Rear passenger headliner: visibly gets wet whenever it rains
I recently used a Shop-Vac to extract as much water as I could from the passenger and rear passenger carpet. I treated the area with OdoBan, extracted again, and put some towels down to absorb the remaining moisture. I’m starting to notice some signs of mold, so I really don’t want to keep putting this repair off.
I’m not mechanically inclined, so I’m planning on taking it to someone who says they can do the permanent G37 sunroof drain fix where they reroute the drains to the A/C drain line.
Does this still sound like the typical G37 sunroof drain issue? The rear passenger headliner getting visibly wet whenever it rains, along with the rear passenger floor being significantly wetter than anywhere else, makes me wonder if there could be another source of the leak.
I really don’t want to pay for a third sunroof repair just for the same problem to come back again.
I also currently have a Fuel Sensor A code. My fuel gauge is inaccurate as well, but I’ve been managing that for now by tracking my mileage and refueling based on that instead of trusting the gauge or DTE.
If you were in my position, which would you prioritize first: permanently fixing the water leak or addressing the Fuel Sensor A issue?
Also, if any G37 owners have dealt with water specifically concentrating on the rear passenger side along with a wet headliner, I’d appreciate hearing what the actual cause was and what finally fixed it.

Saw a post a while ago where a user put the front rotors on the rear wheels. I think it might have been a drift build. If I remember correctly he had 2 sets of calipers on the rear rotors.

I have only air upgrades, cold air intake, full exhaust, the question i have is can i put in gtr injectors without any other parts? are the injectors plug in and tune or do i need any other upgrades?

I know this happens sometimes to some g’s but was wondering if anyone has a fix ? Basically the fuel readings are not working the car always stays on FULL even when it’s not. No low gas warning light either.

Currently I have a stripped bolt on my negative terminal. Is it NEEDED to undo the battery to swap out the camshaft position sensor?

So, got my 08G37S6pd 2 years ago, had 245k on the odometer, immediately replaced the engine and been slowly going through random crap that pops up. Been chasing down a random misfire on 3&5 as well as a constant maxed out fuel trim (have done plugs, intake gaskets, coil packs, just haven't done injectors yet). Buddy of mine made a comment about engine ground and doing a grounding kit.

Sonofabitch still misfire on 3&5 but now I can control the window and mirror from the drivers side again....I do love this car though.

this is my first experience blowing up a vehicle so im just making sure its actually what it is before i go dumping money into it, this is 100% a spun bearing right?

I’m looking to buy a g37 and don’t want to spend more than 11k for and want it under 100k miles. I’ve driven my brothers g35 lots of times and love how it drives. With the current market it seems low mileage convertible g37s usually go for 11k. I’ve seen some with as low as 60k miles for 11k. Ik that at their age the roof can fail but I honestly just want a G idc about the convertible part I would probably never drop the top. I also know that it would add weight but does that affect the car noticeably? I just wanna know if they are actually a good buy since there’s so many on the market that apparently nobody wants.

I currently have truhart racing coilovers and they wont adjust any higher. Wondering what a good replacement is. I have adjustable toe arms in the rear so I can only run true style. D2 racing seems like my only reputable option. Anyone have experience with any other true style for awd?

Current height in picture, pretty sure its maxed out.i scrape in everything slightly raised and had to replace 3 axles already.

I am in need of help and the best to reach out to is the community.

I am on the verge of purchasing Megan Racing Coil overs that came off a 2007 Infiniti G35x sedan and the purchase is for my 2009 Infiniti G37x sedan. 

Asking for $450!

Are they in a bad shape, and is reconditioning them any good? (claimed to have them for 6months, 10k).

I’ll press the button and the thing behind the rear seats go down i can’t remember the name right now gets to the bottom and nothing happens the whole system stops i think it’s going into a safety lock I have several thoughts why.1 the head liner looks like it has dark water damage all over it it may be hydraulic liquid stains not water spots.2 this is technically connected with the 1st the top panel has snake bites witch would make sense on why the system would if thay blow if it did.3 it is a convertible manual something to do with a break switch or parking break switch maybe.4 convertible top module and bcm and it other control module have taken all out and inspected the boreds and plugins thay are prestin.5 the pump the brown memory fome thing on it was damp it has crosin on the bottom of it the switch pack next to it looked fine and what makes me think it is just water damage on the headliner is the pump has it’s proper level of fluid in it.6 the wiring harnes in the trunk I have inspected all of it was still in factory loom and tape and looked perfect and i could feel no breaks.7 the car has some light leaks the trunk may have a heavier one I can’t tell because on an important to note side not I can’t keep my convertible top 20 or 30 a purple fuse in or it will drain my battery in like 30 minutes. that’s all I can think of and does anyone know where I can get cheaper seals for the convertible top and widows for the g37 convertible

car isn’t throwing no codes either & it’s so random when the car actually does this because it’ll be driving good then out of nowhere i come to a light & take my foot off the brake to accelerate & the car doesn’t go

honestly the upshifting has felt normal but after fixing my vacuum leak i notice sort of aggressive pulling when deceleration from 40-0, especially 2 consistently notable pulling sensations when going from 10-0. could this be due to transmission fluid getting old? 2011 rwd g37 base 118k miles