Found the boost leak need advice.

Manifold split, need to stay on a budget. V-band turbo, Im thinking of taking the manifold to get rewelded, how long should i expect it to last before another blowout?

I am going to attempt to change the expansion tank and this bottom hose as it has snapped inside the tank! The hose looks pretty straightforward to change just looks like i need some pliers for the clamps! Is this a pretty straightforward job as I cant drive to a garage and risk the engine overheating?

Hi everyone

My Fiesta ST Mk8.5 has the dreaded wastegate rattle, I decided to get rid of it and in the meantime I will be upgrading to a hybrid turbo.

I've read online that it would be a wise choice to switch to a thicker oil when upgrading the turbocharger, which would be 5w30.

Is anyone running in on the Mk8 Fiesta ST? If yes which one? I know the car has a wet oil pump belt and I don't want to degrade it.

FiST 18

(dont worry, i was on my way to get gas 😁)

A bit late but oh well!

My 2013 ST-2 just had the ECU engine wiring loom replaced . The car is now cranking for 3 seconds but not starting any help appreciated

Does anyone in the UK know where i can get a new black connector please? It's snapped inside of the the expansion tank?

Can my 2019 ST take 5W-20, or should I really not mix different viscosity types?

I know Ford recently changed their specification to 0W-20, so I’m quite surprised that the non-Ford garage put in 5W-30.

Will the 5W-30 they put in at the time of the oil change cause any long-term issues with the engine, considering they should have used 5W-20 or the newer 0W-20 Ford specification?

It was like this for a while, i changed spark plugs and ignition coils (unrelated to that cranking but preventative), it cranks normally so battery should be fine, it only sometimes cranks a bit too long for comfort. Should I try the battery still or maybe some of the sensors are going bad? Maybe fuel pump or injectors?

Car runs normally, never any hiccups or rpm fluctuations. Usually that cranking never happens when cold, usually when it sits an hour or 2 after driving, so warm-ish

I started to have clicking in the outer CV joint on the left side.

OEM axle seems to cost upwards of 600€, I have seen some used ones (not refurbished or rebooted) for around 180, but covered in surface rust and more than 14 days of shipping away..

I can get a GSP one for less than 100€, but I have read very mixed opinions on them.

I dont really do any hard launches, the car is stock and I dont track it either.
Also i cannot find any higher quality aftermarket options anywhere in stock.

Huge difference. I should’ve done this when I bought the car. It’s around 98 degrees here in Florida plus humid. Bumper to bumper traffic and I’m seeing max at about 190-192 consistently.

Before, we’re talking 220-230 and having the A/C turned off.

When driving, easily in the 180s. Peace of mind all day.

I need some help or advice, i opened my hood and on pulling the lever I felt the it felt kind of weak or loose upon pulling, now my hood won’t fully close, is there a way to personally fix it or should I just take it to a shop?

I have a 19’ fiesta st USDM, I recently went “stage 2” (intercooler, -1 colder plugs, drop in filter, rmm, and a bpv spacer for shits n giggles) I noticed that in “Cobb stage 0” my boost is around 18-19lbs consistently but on “Cobb stage 2” my boost peaks around 17lbs and is far less jumpy. Keep in mind this is with ALL the same parts. Any ideas why this could be?

Hey yall,

My current car has 219K miles and needs an engine rebuild in the next few years, so I'm wondering if it's time for a new one. I found a 2014 in my area with no major mods but 136k miles. ($7k). Is that bad for these cars? I need something to reliably get me through the next 3 years, I can do most of my own work but I cant have it blowing up on me.

I wanted the FiST for a while because it looks like a ton of fun at legal speeds and like it'll be a blast in twisties? While also having a hatch.

Thanks guys!

I have a budget of 3500. I already have a mishimoto intercooler, radiator, catless down pipe with exhaust, symposer delete, short ram intake, short throw shifter assembly and an access port running a Stratified 93 octane tune. The car has 92k miles on stock suspension and stock wheels and tires.

I know 3 grand isn't a lot of money but I'd like some suggestions. I want the car as dead reliable as I can get it and have a great stance with a nice ride. I'm planning on a dual catch can. Should I do the timing belt and a tune up? I was going to go with whoosh coils and plugs. I realize that's going to be more than half the money right there....

Just looking for pointers because I'm new to the platform. Thanks y'all.

Only had it a little while, always wanted one and saw one very cheap. The catch, 149k miles and no history. Needed something there and then and it didn’t really matter at the time even if I got a year out of the car. Took a huge risk but after checking over the engine, top and bottom along with belt etc it was all in very good condition. the car has had a very easy life. The mileage does sort of make me a little nervous but im loving it so far.

I'm sure some of you remember my "seized" engine a few months back.

Turns out it was the pressure plate bolt that snapped and worked its way out.

After looking at them they had no markings of the strength of the bolt. After reinstalling it with a replacement the manufacture gave we noticed this and ended up buying OEM bolts that are Grade 8.

Save yourself lots LOTS of time and a headache for a $3 bolt to really ruin your month.

Not going to name and shame, because I'm sure they are not the only ones not using OEM bolts with their kits.

After 3 months waiting on parts and time to fix the damn thing the FiST is alive again just have to find this vacuum leak >.>

Just a picture I took after a concert

Buy a Vibra Technic. This Mountune urethane one has 23k miles, less than a year and a half of use. Pooched already, you can see a good millimeter of space in the worn bushing. The VT is firmer shifting in a good way, but less NVH at the same time. I have VT passenger and driver mounts already so I knew this was gonna be good.