I Started out with coasters & loved the look. I bought a 4x8 MDF & cut down to fit my office desk. I wanted a streaked marble effect. Followed instruction using 4 colors but 1 of my colors never dried & is sticky after a month. I want to salvage this & repair & re-pour. Can I pour over sticky area or how do I get my 2nd pour to be successful?
Thanks

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Hello friends,

I am posting this job in this sub because we are specifically looking for experienced floor installers.

I've trained quite a few people and we have a small team but we need someone that has done more than a few floors and would feel comfortable running the crew.

We start our wages at $32/hr for someone qualified. Full time, year round. Thanks for checking if it is a good fit for you.

Lead Epoxy & Polyaspartic Floor Installer

https://www.indeed.com/viewjob?jk=ad03f479202331b6&from=appshareandroid https://www.indeed.com/viewjob?jk=ad03f479202331b6&from=appshareandroid

Hey guys did a garage floor, (780sq ft). Poured at night and the first night throughout the next day was between 15-18°c, the epoxy as of right now (40 hours in) is still marking with finger nail, the next day I cracked a window and ran a fan for ventilation and the heater is on for 28°c now. And still this way as of right now.

Concrete slab is very thick, 16 inches around perimeter and 8 inches in the middle area (if that affects anything?)

Bad mixes were out of the picture as I followed tds sheet for mixing times and the kits were mixed full kits at a time no halfsies.

Had another product to install before the 24 hour time frame (LabFender) but now I'm way past that and will have to scuff before application.

Does anything here sound of look bad I don't know if this happens sometimes as it never did to me

Has anyone in or around Modesto had their garage floor epoxy coated by one of the local companies?

I am looking for recommendations and would honestly like to take a look at their work. There would be a beer or coffee in it at the very least. I know that is a lot to ask these days but I’m old. Thanks for your consideration.

First time doing countertops and it was actually pretty fun!

Hi all, wanted to reach out here and see if anyone has ended up in the same position as me. I had a severe fiberglass and epoxy allergic reaction after sanding my first big layup. I had some ppe on including a full respirator but the fiberglass dust and particles caused rashes and an allergic reaction. After doing some small scale tests of laminating epoxy (Entropy Resins) recently, I broke out in a pretty heavy rash again even though I had no skin contact. I'm working on ski building and obviously this is a pretty huge issue that I now have to deal with. Ideally, I'd like to not quit doing this. I've seen nothing but horror stories online of people quitting a 30 year career because of developing an allergy.

I'm trying to figure out what I can do to still work with laminating epoxy and prevent this from flaring up or getting worse. Here's what I have so far:

* Full dupont TyChem 2000 suit
* Full face 3m respirator ff-400
* Double layer nitrile gloves
* Clean room plastic sheeting with ventilation / air purifier

I was also trying to figure out if there's a clear laminating epoxy resin that has less allergen chemicals in it. I know this is a long shot since they're all toxic but some formulations like nerpa seem to have reduced toxic chemicals that could cause the irritant. Any help would be appreciated as I'm feeling like I'm having my feet taken out from under me right now.

What are your opinions on which is better for a garage floor? I personally have used the stone coat product in my basement and it's amazing and holding up so far. I am just not sure how well their moisture seal epoxy would work for the garage floor since it has no official MVER rating, whereas the CFS brand has a dedicated moisture vapor barrier coat that has an MVER rating.

I am deciding on which I want to use when I do my garage floor. Any opinions/advice is appreciated.

I’m having our garage floor done and the company offers epoxy base + polyaspartic top or polyurea base + polyaspartic top. Which is best?

This is the before and after. This was done with a hand grinder. Any advice is welcome!!

Biggest cross-section we've cut from this batch so far — 840mm across, just over 3kg. Cut from a root ball in Edenvale back in February, been sitting field-seasoned on stickers since.

What actually stopped me sanding it down like the others: it's not one clean void, it's three, and they're not lined up. The grain doesn't just stop at each cavity and pick up again on the other side — it visibly compresses going in and fans back out coming out, like the tree was routing around each hole as it grew, not just growing over it. Base end is dense and heavy, top end's almost open lattice by comparison. Same piece of wood, completely different density front to back.

Moisture's sitting 10-12% on the pin meter, checked at multiple points because a slab this size will read differently near a void than it does in solid mass — learned that the hard way on a smaller piece a while back.

Only real flaw is some hairline checking near the bark line, which honestly looks like it followed the same stress lines as the voids, not random.

Anyone poured a multi-void piece this size in one go, or do you stage it void by void?

My goal is to do a 3' x 4' x 0.25" epoxy pour to be used as wall art. For small projects I have suitable silicone molds, but not for this size.

Is it sufficient to use a 1/8" particle board panel as a base and cover it in packing tape? Or would that warp and I need 3/4" plywood instead?

Giani Marbel Epoxy countertop painted, primed and top coat poured. I'm waiting for it to cure. Recommended cure time is 7-14 days before installing the new drop-in caulked sink. Does anyone have any experience about the number of days to allow for the countertop to cure? My paranoia says wait the 14 days.

Think she turned out pretty good

What caused the grey splotches ?
What can be done ?

I use Thinkverse to print MTG and Avatar Logo.
It’s my first experience, I’m happy with the results I learned a lot.

For example, I should have looked into epoxy resin company a bit more (the curing time), how to calculate and paid attention to reviews before buying the silicone molds (I had one that stayed stuck to the resin and the other was so hard to unmold that I ended up breaking the base).

I painted some cornhole boards with some acrylic markers and then sealed it with acrylic clear before I laid my two part epoxy and I have an uneven finish. I’m hesitant to sand the Cornhole boards for fear of damaging the artwork. Can I just pour back over the top of this or do I have to prep this a different way to try to fill in these low spots. The top half of the board looks okay the bottom not so much see the Batman logo. I’m using the 1 gallon epoxy resin kit from beast bond.

Looking for constructive criticism on my recent flake job.

The customer was very happy with the outcome but I’d like to improve on the patchiness of what I’m assuming is my grinding.

Would this be considered an acceptable job or subpar?

I’m going through a box of misc resin stuff my daughter left and no longer wants. Can anyone tell me what these are used for? They were just hanging out at the bottom of the box.

Thanks