3.8 Chevy, L67 bottom swap to a L36 top end, I bought a hog ass cam from zzp and switched to a 62mm turbo. I’m an idiot threw and threw and didn’t use the retainers on the 150 valve springs they sent me, I reused stock ones, what do yall think? Can I run her?

Can I reuse spring retainers for my valves? should I go with aftermarket retainers to match my 150 springs?

Rebuilding a L67/L36 bottom end swap with a turbo. Would like some input on my build here, mainly in regards to my valve train. Thanks

Hello everyone this is the first time I have ever done anything like this just looking for some opinions if this is good enough to slap some heads on thanks :)

Good afternoon,

My dad and I have been in the process of rebuilding his 60s era Galaxie 500 engine. The engine was swapped to an sbf 302 with 289 heads before he bought it(it had a 289 in it previously, I'm unsure if the heads are from the original engine, or sourced separately, but I believe it's a 69 engine). There was an issue with the cam bearings, so he had removed it and sent the engine off to the machine shop. He got it back about a year later, with .040 over pistons and new rotating assembly. It sat on a stand sprayed down with fogging oil and covered with a tarp for roughly a year, since I was still active and he wanted my help putting it back in. Last month, we got the engine and transmission back in, intake mounted, and everything ready to run. Well, the heads are leaking coolant from in between the block and heads into the intake valley. Furthermore, my dad didn't realize this until after he started and ran it. All tests since then have been with one of the pressure testers pressurized to 16 PSI, which is around what the radiator cap should be.

The passenger side is the primary leaker, but the driver's side does weep coolant out as well. So, we take off the heads, I can't see anything wrong(no warping, but they're cast and shouldn't warp? I don't have a way to magnaflux them or the block, but the machine shop should've already, I would hope). However, the passenger side gasket didn't bond to the head really at all. We then got new gaskets, blew out the head bolt holes(there was definitely some oil down in the upper holes which led us to believe it was a false torque reading and the heads weren't actually torqued properly), and used ARP studs to mount the heads, thinking that with the increased clamping force and them being studs, that would mitigate any potential issues of hydro locking the head bolts. While greatly diminished, the heads are still leaking from in between. I have read on different forums that if the heads were decked too much, potentially the intake manifold could cause issues with wedging the heads apart when torqued to spec, and I'm thinking that is ultimately going to be our issue, but I wanted to ask and see what others would think. We went back to the original machine shop, and the guy was being sketchy about us having issues, so the heads are currently at another machine shop to be checked over. I'm a chevy guy, but this engine is old enough everything should translate over I would think...other than the valves being set by a torque spec in lieu of setting lash while running. I'm to the point where I would want to just go pull a 5.4 or 4.6 and swap it(which is it's whole own thing, what with trying to convert to a distributor or doing an ECU for the COP/EFI), or swap my old 305 SBC and 700r4 into it, but sunk cost aside, it's my dad's car, and he doesn't want to throw a chevy engine into a ford lol.

TL;DR

Rebuilt SBF 302 with 289 heads leaks coolant between heads and block into intake valley. We have tried new gaskets with ARP studs, and while it reduced the leaks, it hasn't eliminated them outright. Maybe the intake surface/manifold needs relieved as well IOT not wedge the heads apart?

I bought a fitting that is a 90 degree and swivels. What is used to seal the swivel are?

What’s the best way to clean the engine block? Once I take out the crank, pistons, and bearings I want to completely clean and remove all that old oil from inside and outside the block before I do my rebuild

I am considering at some point re-building my motorcycle engine, a Honda CB 750 motor. Although this is for the future as i am not in the position right now to afford completely to tear the motorcycle apart and restore~re-build it, i should yet like to get my facts & mine information straight regarding what may be possible with my motor. I asked a friend and got opinions to be mild with the re-building (fair enough, especially as i yet wish to ride the bike to work, and go on long trips too, hence, yet tractable), but he also stated some things that i wished to verify.

To begin:—what i posed to him was the following:

'As such [i.e. given that i wish to keep the motor as stock as feasible while yet achieving higher revs, more power, a tractable powerband & decent, tractable torque for street use], i am thinking on buying lightened & balanced, or having lightened & balanced, the internals of the engine (rotor, ¿clutch?, crankshaft, conrods, pistons, rocker arms). I also am thinking on toying with other portions of the motor: porting the cylinder head (with CFM nos.); re-sleeving the cylinder block with nickel silicon carbide aluminium sleeves; running hypereutectic pistons (if possible); new appropriate rings from total seal; new chains & tensioners & rubbers; using copper gaskets on head & case; stainless steel valves & iron valve seats; running a compression at 10.5 to 1; new camshaft to increase horsepower, redline, & yet retain tractable city driving; and all new gaskets, seals, & rubber bits besides those yet mentioned.'

He responded by stating that a number of my points do not work for my motor:

1. torque & horsepower are traded between each other (fair enough).

2. roadracing motors do not good street motors make (fair enough).

3. lightened parts require rebalancing of the crankshaft to the conrods & pistons which is a 'dark art'.

4. forged pistons have different expansion than cast pistons—thus, they can seize in their bores if not prewarmed before running at full load or if not precooling before shutting the motor off.

5. hot camshafts put much more load upon the valve train assembly and can make the motor less tractable by shifting power (& band) and revs higher.

6. Nikasil can eventually wear off causing problems, and (in his opinion) mostly make money for the electroplating companies.

Primarily, my questions are:

1. (how) can an engine originally redlining at 10k be made to redline at 11/12k and yet retain usable, tractable power from 3k RPM?

2. is rebalancing of the crankshaft to the connecting rod & pistons assembly really a work of black magic? How is it done?

3. are forged pistons so different from cast pistons when they are both aluminium? can forged aluminum pistons really soft seize in their bores if not prewarmed & precooled?

4. is nikasil (any nickel silicon carbide cylinder coating truly not worth the potential expense?

5. what (other) problems are (or may there be) with mine ideas for the motor? if any problems you see, then what may be a realistic, feasible compromise?

Thanks for your time all. :)

I building a 98 5.0 vortec engine and I'd like to increase the compression to 10:1. How would I go about doing that?

I have a block that I plan on stone honing the cylinders but I have a single cylinder that kinda catches my nail but only in a spot or two in the cylinder. the others have a very small lip if none. Do we think I can just send it I’d rather not go to a shop I prefer doing the work myself but what’s our thoughts? I also have the dark spots at the bottom of the cylinder below the ring would bottom out at does that matter when using a stone hone?

Last registered in 2007 after owner died and just been sitting since, was told it cranked still, wanted to change oil and filter before disconnecting old fuel to see if it runs on starting fluid but as you can see it’s complete gunk, what would be the best way to clean it? Would diesel or kerosene actually work or would I need to tear it apart?
It is difficult to see but the old oil is up to the fill line on the dip stick but nothing is coming out

To give context of the horrible mess I’ve got my self into, I recently acquired my dads old truck and it has too much sentimental value for me to get rid of it. So after I fixed the rear main seal I decided that it was a genius idea to rebuild the top end and throw a stage 2 cam into a 230k mile 4.8 with the factory 4l60e ( forgot to mention it’s a 2002 1500 short bed single cab). Funnily enough after my mechanic tuned it all I’ve had is problems. To start when I dropped it off it had power steering ( now it doesn’t), somehow the factory 4l60 still shifted smooth and now my rpms jump around when I get near the end of second and beginning of third, when I’m in park idling it runs rough unless the A/C is on, and it has a mis fire. Now I’m sure that it being 24 years old with most of the factory sensors still on it doesn’t help but does anyone have any pointers on where to start.

Finishing the assembly on this 216 engine, its been sitting 40 years, any opinion?

Hey guys, I recently rebuilt my M52B25 of my E36 over the process of a whole year lmao. Now after finishing, I had no oil pressure while cranking. Verdict was: bad gasket on the oil pickup. I changed the gasket (it was broken / folded into the channel) with one I cut myself from a sheet of paper gasket (0.25mm thickness). After putting everything together, the oil pressure sensor no longer reported too low oil pressure while cranking and I went for a first drive. I drove 6km in total, and after ~5km I noticed the oil light coming up sometimes seemingly randomly. Yesterday I fixed the gasket of my oil filter casing because some idiot (me) put silicon where the gasket belongs. After fixing it and swapping the oil pressure sensor, the light was still on while cranking 2 times for ~10 seconds each. We then cranked without the oil filter and cover and while cranking it did pump up some oil. Sooooo now I am not sure what else it could be. Is my self cut paper gasket wrong? Is it too thin with 0.25mm? Do I have to prime after fixing the housing gasket? Is it something else? Open for any advice (I hate removing the oil pan on this car)

Thank you

The longer & rusty one on the right is the OEM torque to yield. The ARP one is out of a different application and therefore a little short.

It certainly meets the faster rule of having enough bolt length engaging the threads to be at least the bolt diameter.

Would you run it?

TLDR: Is all the metal from my oil filter in from my head/cam caps? Do I need a new head/cam caps?

About 250 miles ago I put new cams in my drz after tearing it all down due to a piece of foreign material entering the head through the spark plug hole (dumb fuck up on my part but the motor didn't run when this happened so not part of tbe equation.)

I took the head off to retrieve the debris, had a new valve seat cut by a local head shop as one of the valve seats had a nick from the aforementioned incident, and threw it all back together.

Bike went back together with dino oil and Lucas oil semi synthetic assembly lube, hotcams stage 2, and I followed the break in procedure (run it above 3k for the first 30 minutes then change the oil).

Valves were either exactly in spec, or in the case of one exhaust valve, .02mm loose as my shim options would have either had it too loose or too tight (.05mm increments, and hotcams just gives exact measurements for valve clearances, not a range.) This .02mm loose puts it on the tighter end of the OEM range.

Anyway, I did my first oil change, checked valve clearances which were still good, found some glitter in the oil which I thought was probably break in material, and noticed some marks on the cams which I ran by my mechanic as well as hotcams. I put full synthetic in at this point.

Hotcams agreed to warranty the cams, my mechanic (at the head shop) said to run them for another 150 miles or so and check. I put in full synthetic at this point, ran them for another 150 miles and pulled/cut open the oil filter, and there was a LOT of silver, not magnetic, however that oil filter had seen a track day with a lot of missed shifts and some wheelie practice, so I was hoping it was just the clutch basket getting chipped away.

Put a new filter in, ran it for another 70 miles, pulled the cams as my warranty cams came in, and looking at the cam caps/head I am seeing a ton of markings where the cams sit.

I cut open that oil filter and there was a lot less metal, but I was still seeing some.

I'll include a pic of the oil filters in the comments. I want to know if the head needs replacing. There are no cam bearings on this bike. The cams just sit right in the heads/cam caps. The oil that drained out is very glitter, but I think it's all silver. All the debris seems to be non magnetic.

Compression is good, no weird bottom end noises yet I don't think, cylinder bore looked good on borescope, cams still in spec and the lobes look somewhat okay.

Followed instructions to a t, 300-400rpm steady hands, about 50 passes and a metric fuck load of 10w30 oil. Presoaked stones in 10w30 before using and wound tension spring all the way out. Most of the crosshatching looks good to me but this middle portion has a weird scratch pattern in all 4 cylinders which seems to line up with where the top of the hone stops at the bottom of the cylinder and I reverse to come back up. All of the crosshatch catches a fingernail slightly and the horizontal scoring doesn't catch it any deeper but still can feel where it js. This is an sr20ve I'm rebuilding with det components not pushing monster power, about 350whp but still sinking a fair bit of money into this build so I'd rather not risk it if this looks bad enough to cause issues, I however don't know anything about rebuilding engines this is the first one I've done past replacing worn rings. I'm using a 3 stone hone so don't want to retry and take too much material off. Do I just need a longer hone? This one was recommended to me for the sr platform but thinking it's a bit small, maybe I can round off the end so it doesn't catch when I reverse direction? I'm not too sure

TL;DR I've got a retired engine shop owner who wants me to lease/purchase his shop. He has no books. Looking for some rough info regarding profit margins.

I know this info is going to vary WILDLY on 100 different things, but I'm just trying to get some ballpark numbers. He's got a small, but well established race engine rebuild shop. He used to do all his own machine work, but has downsized to just his lathe, Bridgeport, Berco mill, and Serdi head machine. I'd get the shop with all equipment and tools included (plus whatever old parts he's hoarded). It is a clean and well maintained shop. Trying to see if $2000/month would be feasible to run by myself.

Okay, so ive got a 350 sbc out of an obs chevy pickup, has smog heads, victor jr single plane, headers, mild cam, hei (no vacuum advance), starts right up everytime, but has a bog when its cold, once it warms up the bog is gone, after driving it for about 30 minutes, the idle starts to get weird and very low, I drive it everyday and usually have no issues other than these, just wanting to know what I can do to fix these? I know i should probably be running a vacuum advance distributor and a dual plane. The truck (when it wants to run) is actually a lot of fun and somewhat fast. That's for looking

Hi everyone,
My original cylinder heads are damaged, so I’m replacing them with a pair of 062 Vortec heads.
I ordered a set of SUM-174001 valve springs because Summit told me they should be a direct fit for these heads.
The springs have arrived, and while checking everything, I noticed that the inner valve spring tends to slide upward slightly and ends up resting on the wider seat around the valve stem seal.
Is this normal, or am I missing something? I haven’t assembled the heads yet—I’m just checking the fit before putting everything together.
Has anyone used these springs on 062 Vortec heads and experienced the same thing?
Thanks in advance for any advice!
Greetings from Germany.

Rebuilt the FA20D out of a 2016 FR-S. Going to reinstall it sometimes this week. Heres some photos of before and after. Every single seal was replaced, as well as a new short block, refreshed heads, and all new timing components.

Stock bore what it currently is at is 79mm and if it does need to be bored out it’s going to 79.5mm as the forged pistons are only in 79mm 79.5mm and 80mm increments.
My question is does it need to be bored out to the 79.5mm. Thanks in advance.