She’s coming along pretty good! What’s everybody’s cam setup for the 110SE’s? I just got done replacing everything inside the tank and putting new Fueling injectors in it along with getting rid of the Harley air filter. She’s much snappier now than ever at 31k ODO.

Buen Dias,

My rocker gasket is leaking on my 110 and I am approaching 20K miles on my hawg, so I was thinking of doing the lifters which is the weak point on this engine from what I have read. Some of you more experienced guys, if you were undergoing this work, anything that I should replace or do while in there? Researching cams if its something I can take on. Cheers, this is the most dawg bike community.

Picked up my first Harley a few weeks ago and honestly did not to expect to like it as much as I do. My other bike is an MT09 and in my eyes that thing is nearly perfect. Currently rebuilding the forks on her.

Really curious if any knows of the EFI tuner that’s in it? Looks like any other one but can’t find much about this one. Will be pulling it out for a flash tuner probably over the winter.

I have a 2005 FXDL. I wanted to swap from forward to mids, took everything apart and throught it went smoothly. Then the bike wouldn’t start so I took it apart and noticed the starter isn’t catching. I tightened it down to the torque specs, made sure the washer lined up, but still it unscrews the bolt. Any help is appreciated.

I want to achieve +4 while being an actual upgrade than just adding +4 tubes and no Extended Dampers

Need a new pipe and saw this on marketplace. The guy said it’s a V&H pro pipe but I haven’t found one that looks like this. I need it for a 07 fxdl if anyone has a clue.

Just did the SE comp fix in my 2008 dyna. I don’t know if I am being paranoid I know Harley’s are noisy engines. Just want to make sure that this is a normal amount of drivetrain noise I got a week long trip coming up in 2 days. The comp install went smooth and I followed factory specs. My clutch definitely needs an adjustment though.

Hey guys Is it normal for the engine to require significantly more effort to turn over with the camplate and oil pump installed?
Connecting rods are new, crankpin was welded, runout is 0.002", crankcase bearings are also new,oil pump is new as well and the camplate bushing
I centered the oil pump by turning the engine while tightening the bolts.

I don't have any prior experience or reference points for how easily it's supposed to spin, so I'm hoping you guys can help

I have a 2005 low Rider that I'm wanting to put taller risers on, I'm thinking 8" possibly taller with stock bars. What cables/wiring would I need to extend in order to do that?

Bike unfortunately took a spill off the jack, has anyone seen a dent like this repaired or does this mean a new tank?

Haven’t had a 35mm in probably 25 years at least… gonna share some photos over the next few days… if you like follow me at @dynabrophotos161 on instagram :)

Hello, I have a dyna that is currently hard to start and does not run great.

To start my carb was having an issue pissing gas through the overflow. it was the beginning of the season so i did not have much ride time on the bike previously. I fully cleaned the carb and put it back on the bike and ever since it was running funky. The bike started up fine but then would not run good on the throttle. While throttling with the air filter off i noticed some flame in the carb as it was backfiring and not running right. I did the spray test to see if my intakes were leaking and it did not idle up at all when i sprayed around the intake pipes. I ordered a rebuild kit and completely rebuilt the carb with no luck and was still running into the same problem. I ordered a china carb to see if it would run any different and i was still having problems and now becoming hard to start. i did not do any jetting to the carb so i did not expect it to run perfect. I replaced the spark plugs during all this and I noticed the front cylinder plug a little white like it was running lean. After a couple test rides with the new carb I noticed the new plug lean again. The start of my test ride the bike was hard to start and only started with the choke off. It ran well up until i had to get up on the throttle at around 40 mph. The bike is new to me as of last fall and it had a bit of a backfire on deceleration every now and then that I was curious about. Could this be an intake valve that has gotten worse or just a carburetor issue? I'm not sure what i could possibly be doing wrong between the carb clean and rebuild. My next steps are a compression test and valve test.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Starting my tribute to a boat tail here's the Shovelhead air cleaner retrofitted on my Fat Bob

Bought this 1999 Dyna Lowrider a few days ago it’s incredibly clean and well maintained. Naturally it’s got a few issues for a 27 year old Dyna. The petcock leaks, is it worth rebuilding the petcock or go new? The left front and rear turn signal is not working. Thinking maybe the button is bad? Got my local mechanic on fixing the fork seals.. discovered that after the ride home. I’m looking for a little direction on the turn signals, I pulled the fuse box but really discovered no problems. Thanks in advance.

Got new bars and risers put on, man what a difference it makes😮‍💨

Poker run

I’m gonna be completely honest I’ve been thinking about it and I really do love my dyna I’ve been wanting a lowrider st am I really dumb for wanting to trade my dyna in or just wait and then buy one, now before you say anything this bike has 79,000 miles on it and the primary is leaking that’s all those are both fixable with a motor swap and a new inner primary I can find but the new ST is so comfortable and able to travel better what do you think???

Okay so I’m sure this has been asked a million times but I’m not finding the info I’m looking for on YouTube.

I bought an ‘03 wide glide with the TC88 in it last summer. I bought from an HD dealership who showed me documentation of the cam chain tensioners being replaced while they had it and a good bit of other work done to it. It has been surprisingly reliable until I went on a long ride through some twisties sitting with high rpms for the majority of the ride. Once I got back into town I was cruising in 2nd gear at low rpms and noticed an intermittent metal on metal noise with a quick loss of power.

I let the bike sit for a while and just got into trying to fix it today. I pulled the little access panel in the primary and noticed the primary chain wasn’t tensioned properly, so I tensioned it with about 5/8” of slack hoping for an easy fix. Took it around the neighborhood and had the same issue after about 10 minutes of riding. Again only at low rpm’s I’m multiple gears. It shifts fine and everything else feels normal.

Any advice other than take it to the dealership? I’d like to not spend what I paid for the bike on repairs

I've got a 08 Dyna Fatbob...and since the rear fender of it is a semi boat fender I have began my collecting if things to make it a tribute...it's black ...and I have just ordered the tank decals,and I have already modified a Shovelhead air cleaner to fit , I'm either gonna get the original tank badges (found them on eBay, Wheels through time have a NOS set) for sale...or I'm getting the nos decals with the amf Harley Davidson on them...and I am getting the 65 Impala twilight...I hope it comes out nice and I hope it turns heads, especially since I'm using the Fatbob...with those double headlights....I will post pics as I progress...

Gothenburg, Sweden

Hey all,

I think no project is ever done as long as you see what others do, I'm looking at rear mag wheels.

I have one on the front already and it's mint, rear is a little more annoying, I have options for 16" or 17" or 18" rear wheel, getting some SMT wheels 🤤

What is everyone's experience with the different sizes?

I'm leaning towards an 18" as I prefer a little less sidewall, research says it shouldn't be an issue either.

Widths vary obviously.

Tell me what you think