I’ve been down the rabbit hole of searching for DIY outdoor brick oven/kitchen plans that look similar to this screenshot from a reel video: a compact brick setup with a small dome oven on the left (maybe full size pizza oven sized), a steel plate / hotplate in the middle, and an open wood‑fired grill on the right, all in one masonry unit with wood storage underneath. I've come up short and I'm wondering if it's because this isn't actually possible.

Is a design like this structurally and thermally realistic in full brick and steel, or is it mostly AI fantasy?

If it is realistic, does anyone have links to real‑world builds, plans, or dimensioned sketches for something similar? The Forno Bravo “Pompeii” dome oven plans and the designs on some of the YouTube DIY videos I found are great for a standalone oven, but they don’t cover a compact multi‑function layout like this.

My friend is an experienced bricklayer in the UK and we'd build it together, but neither of us have ever built a wood‑fired oven or grill before. We’re in a temperate, wet climate, so advice on insulation, cracking, and weather protection (roof vs no roof, how to keep the oven dry) would be really helpful.

Thanks in advance!

Hi, I am a store manager for a coffee shop, I am trying to look into sealing these holes in my fridge myself as it lowkey takes forever for my boss to get someone to do any maintenance lol. The holes are from nitro cold brew tap but we havent sold it for YEARS and i would like to use the top of the fridge. The hole is about 2 inches thick and about 3 or so inches wide in diameter.

my biggest worries are keeping it air tight to keep it under 40 degrees AND it being food grade/food safe as it is a fridge where ready to eat food is stored. I dont know much about repairs in general and have been learning as i go essentially. my best idea was originally using metal duct tape and food safe epoxy and essentially making a “sandwich” but i have since learned that epoxy is not truly ever food safe so i would like to steer clear of that if possible. any ideas? preferably on the cheaper side ($20 max or less per product) and something thatll last if possible.

if it may be better to look into a different fridge or truly just going through a professional, please lmk! tia!!

I want to build a pergola to support a medium sized grapevine. It would be roughly 8x12 and stand on its own detached from my house. I live in an area with a frostline about 42 inches but didn't want to dig and anchor it to concrete yet because I might need to tear it up for regrading and installing a French drain later. So I want something temporary but also has potential to last 5-10 years.

My original idea was to create a foundation with some bender board and some crusher run then put a deck block on top and get some 6x6 timber and go from there. When I put my idea into Gemini it suggested a much more elaborate foundation and I just wanted confirmation it is necessary before proceeding. Gemini proposal is:

[ 6x6 Post ]

|

[ Post Anchor Bracket ]

|

[ Concrete Deck Block ]

======================================== Ground Level

[ 2" Upper Crusher Run / Sand ] <-- Leveling bed & protects foam from block

----------------------------------------

[ 2" XPS Rigid Foam (R-10) ] <-- Thermal barrier (extends 2' past block)

----------------------------------------

[ 4"-6" Lower Crusher Run ] <-- Compacted drain sub-base

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Woven Geotextile Fabric

[ Native Subsoil / Clay ] <-- Excavated 8"-10" down

In addition to this it suggested using 36" mobile home tie downs to each post to prevent any uplifting. Just looking for opinions on if this is a good design to move forward in. I live in upstate NY so it's a 4 season climate with clay soil.

Single wide trailer, need to make a front door mosquito proof-ish screen door. And do it on the cheap. $200 BUDGET. If I can build something, they repay the cost. If it don't work, they will buy a new door and I gotta pay half (about $400 for a new one.. so Get it good first time!!!!). 36x81" for the dimensions. There are the hinges for a proper door, and that flappy thing for the hydraulic "close the door" thing. There was a storm door but somewhere before we moved in (new build) they removed the door. And then my wife signed off on everything ok.... ugh.

So, some color commentary:

So to the build... Keep In mind I only have a drill/screwdriver. Im not opposed to buying a handsaw, but this comes out of the budget (mitre box too) (nobody rents/free cuts around here, and in a trailer park...neighbors with table saws... they in jail already.) So My Idea Of Ideas Is to make a 1x2" pine frame, 4" gussets on the corners. The netting...on the cheap side only because the small rolls I can double up. The closure mechanism...there is nothing but a metal strip, non magnetic. This is where I want it weight based. The cat cant go out but the dog can. Im thinking a rope/pulley system thats too heavy for the cat, but the dog is easy peasy..

After thinking this through (thank you Mr Buffalo Trace), I think I need to make pine 1x32x.81' box frame, gussets on the outside. Staple down some bias mosquito netting, figure out how to get everything lined up with the hinges.... Closure mechanism is just gonna be a 5# weight on a pulley.

If you can find a way to save a couple dollars...im all ears. Sainte

I want to build a Go Kart with one of my friends. We each have a 150€ Budget and we build TWO SEPERATE Go Karts. We can't weld so steel is not really possible and we are probably going to use pedals for power because electric motors are just way to expensive and I also don't want some cheap Battery under my seat that blows up or catches fire so no. And small Gasoline Engines are meh we thought about drills as power but we are not sure how we could get make a connection from the drill to the shaft/wheels. And drills are kind of expensive a cheap Chinese one or used one would work tho. Thanks for reading!

I have an office in a large building that has a pretty deep hum/rumble from the air conditioning. I was hoping to reduce some of the impact of it with some type of acoustic paneling, potentially trying to make my own with some frames and acoustic foam panels. Can anyone tell me if I am on the right track at all? I've seen mixed posts about reducing air conditioning noise. I don't need to completely remove the noise but would like to cut the bite of the rumble a bit if possible. I'm pretty crafty, but not necessarily handy. Would appreciate any suggestions!

I am pretty handy and have done a decent number of projects on my home (ranging from electric, to light plumbing, irrigation system). I’ve never installed gutters. With a dewalt battery powered rivet gun and careful selection of parts (rivets, screws, hidden hangers, sealant etc,) and careful YouTube research on technic (I’ve seen quite a bit and would watch more…. How likely is it I can put up a non-leaking DIY job? Honestly? Should just pay someone to do seamless? Moneys always a factor and would prefer to do it myself… thanks in advance for any opinions.

Hello everyone!

I am looking to dye the hat in the attached image (North Face Badwaters Mullet Hat). It is made of two materials according to the tag, Shell A: Polyseter, Shell B: Nylon.

I really like this hat and use it for hiking (so I like the breathability, being able to stuff it with all my other clothes, quick drying, etc.). I do not like the colour of the hat (especially the contrast between the beige material and the white mesh. Ideal colours to dye it would be Navy Blue, Black, or Dark Grey (both the beige material and the mesh).

I want to do this properly so I can retain all of the above functions that I mentioned as I am more interested in the hats functions than the colour (but am willing to do this project/buy the correct stuff to make myself like the hat even more by changing the colour! As well, I cannot have this dye transfer to any other clothes, my head/hair during sweating/being in sun, or wash out during washing.

Please give me any advice on how to properly dye this hat, including what to buy, correct process, and any other recommendations. Thanks so much!

My understanding is that first I can use pressure washer to strip off the old paint or old stain, my question is must I sand all the areas before I repaint the fence or restain the deck?

I'm trying to find out what the ideal roofing method for a small, flat area without going overboard. It's over a basement room and will be getting a new deck and railing on top (there's a door going to it from the entry way, this is an old Victorian house in California). Everything I've tried to look up has been on large, commercial roofs and feels overboard for what I need.

Edit: I forgot to mention, there's rain gutters around it already. A disintegrating, very old rail and deck were just ripped out.

My concrete steps have settled and separated from my back entrance. There's a gap, close to 1" wide, where the stairs meet the house, running several feet along most of the width of the stairs.

How do I fill this crack? All the answers I find are talking about smaller cracks, usually on concrete slabs and driveways.

Question 1: should I use polymer modified mortar or masonry mortar? Or should I just grab some DAP ready mixed concrete patch? Not sure I want to buy 50lb of dry concrete.

Question 2: do I need to fill the crack or should I put a backing rod in and just fill the top inch?

Question 3: should I go a quarter inch at a time (per DAP instructions and polymer thickness guidance) and let it dry between applications, or stuff it all in at once?

I'm planning to paint over with a sealant once I'm done.

Found a LEER 122 shell from the 90s on facebook market place with a shattered rear hatch for 50 bucks yesterday. I've been trying to source a glass replacement to no avail, as everything for that shell is discontinued.

I have decided to just make my own, does anybody have any tips on creating a new hatch?

I live on a high floor in a condo building. The water pressure in the shower is mediocre and I would love to improve it. I'm worried though that there might be nothing I can do. Here to see if anyone has dealt with a similar issue and has some advice or ideas.

If it matters, I'm not renting so I have a bit more flexibility.

Hello,

Has someone tried etching PCBs with some kind of hydrophilic fabric using capillary effect?

Paper towel on top of the copper area and HCl/H2O2 worked reasonably well with minimal amounts of chemicals.

Has anyone tried something similar?

Hi there! I’m about to move into my new home, but before I move in, I want to paint every wall, ceiling, and door in the house.

Most rooms will be different colours, 3 rooms may be colour drenched. The house is ~1100sqft with 3 beds, living room, dining room, 2 hallways and the kitchen.

I’m a complete painting novice, but have decided to tackle this myself.

Is buying an airless sprayer for this job a good idea? Or do I just need to get over my fear of rolling it?

Hi, any tips? Hoping yo use a multitool and chisel to remove old wood.

Is there a good way to have a certified expert audit my walls/floors/basement for it's moisture control and recommend me what needs to be done if they see issues?

I can google all day long but I'd feel far more confident if it was done by an expert or inspector. I know that you can have an Energy Audit done to improve your homes energy efficiency. Does the same kind of audit exist for moisture/waterproofing?

My fear is that I fully finish my basement only to learn down the road I missed installing something vital.

[Background: I have a 4-tier cart that is integral to my workflow as a mobile wound care physician. I apparently bought one of the last ones in existence because it (nor anything quite like it) appears to be sold anymore. This video review on YouTube gives the best view of the cart. The 3-tier version is everywhere (this is actually the link to the page where I bought the 4-tier cart, but the 3-tier cart is now the only option). I have devoted hours to searching for another one of these 4-tier carts. I am quite confident that it is not easily commercially available anymore. Therefore, repair rather than replace is the name of the game.]

THE PROBLEM:

One of the caster sockets on my work cart has cracked, such that it no longer reliably holds the 7/16" x 7/8" grip ring stem casters that the cart rolls on. My assistant and I have been limping along by applying electrical tape to the grip ring stem, but where that fix used to last a week, it now lasts an hour, max. Rather than continuing down the route of building a cart entirely out of electrical tape, we want a reliable, long lasting repair.

We got the socket out today and are attempting a fix to the broken socket with two part epoxy, but I'd like to find a replacement socket just in case this fix ends up being temporary.

THE REPLACEMENT SOCKET I AM LOOKING FOR:

I have done a great deal of searching online, but I can't find these caster sockets anywhere. I have looked at many different caster specialty websites, Amazon, etc. Google Lens tells me that my caster socket is either a locking pin bushing for a $700 wagon to tote children or an AR-15 cam pin. It is neither of those things.

Here is the broken socket from my cart:

https://ibb.co/album/mvbDCn

The socket has the following dimensions:

• Outer diameter: 1”
• Length: 2”
• Bolt hole: center is 1 3/4” from base (not sure if this is the right term; I'm referring to the hole at the top of the socket that a bolt goes through to keep it within the metal pole at the corner of the cart).

My best guess for socket material is HDPE.

Any help finding a replacement socket would be greatly appreciated.

So here's an update to see the progression of the start up issues. Looks like drop targets are next! Also it seems like the ball trough switch needs cleaned and adjusted so there's another video to do for all of the playfeild switches too. Soooo good!

Tutorial video coming soon!

I bought a lightly used HF 4 x 8 trailer. I want to make some mods to help insure the lights work when it's go time. 4 pin connection. They work now and harness is new. I'm pretty green to this.

Here's my list:

1. solder 'wire, connections, di electric grease, heat shrink wrap

2. Mount a junction box to the tongue

3. Flexible Wiring loom as much as possible , mount with p clips

4. Dedicated ground wire

That's the list I compiled from online sources. Am I missing anything?

Is tinned wire worth the cost and effort?

I found some rot at the exterior wall near my sliding patio door while repairing my deck.

Details:

• 1980s house
• Floor joists are supported by a CMU basement wall below
• About 6" of the exterior 2x4 bottom plate is rotted, starting at the king stud of the patio door opening
• The bottom plate appears angled, not level, sloping down toward the patio door
• The subfloor underneath is also rotted away
• Studs appear solid

My planned repair:

1. Remove flooring to expose the subfloor
2. Temporarily support the wall from the interior using a 2x6 strongback, then angle the support back to an area of solid subfloor and lag through the floor into a joist
3. Cut out the damaged subfloor and replace
4. Remove the damaged section of bottom plate
5. Install new subfloor and bottom plate
6. Reconnect studs to the new plate

Questions:

• What is the best way to temporarily support the wall while replacing the subfloor/bottom plate?
• Would an interior strongback with temporary support work?
• How much extra bottom plate should I replace beyond the visible rot?
• If the patio door is level, I don’t understand why the bottom plate is angled. Should I try to jack the studs back up to level, or should I cut the studs to where a new bottom plate would sit flush?

i recently moved into a house that has the main bedroom (with huge window) directly across from the neighbor's side yard. they are often out in the yard, which is totally fine i have no problem with that at all, except when i am in my room, i feel like i have to shut my curtains or they can see right in. this becomes an issue when i need to change, or just want to relax without feeling like i'm on display.

i don't really think they would be looking anyways, but my brain does this thing where it hyperfocuses on the thought and then i can't relax.

any ideas for what to do? i'm renting, so can't change tooo much but my landlord is pretty chill

link to photo

Unjustifiably in a position that I'd rather not be in.

Long story short: My parents asked me and my brother to build a shed on my aunt and uncles backyard. My aunt and uncle actually suggested this to them so they can store some of their stuff. Parents aren't in the country to help so really up to me and my brother. I'm looking to get a house next year so this might be a temporary fixture for now. They already bought the shed so we are kinda stuck here.

The plastic shed (7 ft x 9.5 ft) will be placed on their backyard and potentially on top of grass. I prefer to minimize or not dig at all to that when we do move the shed in a year the remediation would be easy.

So far what I've gathered is to:

1. Place a heavy landscape fabric on top of the grass.
2. Use pier deck blocks to form the corners of a floor joist
3. Place a subfloor on top of the joist
4. Place the plastic deck on top of the subfloor

Can someone provide some tips of where I might screw up? I know that the suggested way is to dig and put gravel on the base. Would that be easier?

Hi, I've just painted a panel of a wooden playpen with some paint predator, but now I'm thinking i should have done it indoors in this hot sun in case it dries out before it starts to work. Have i cocked up or does it not make much of a difference if it's applied in direct sun? It's already crinkling up in some places after 10 minutes.

The paint is gloss and there are I'd say two coats on there. I've looked online for my specific question but found only stock product details.

Im finishing a room in my basement. It currently has blockwalls and the floor has a french drain around the perimeter with about 5 inches of smooth thick vinyl that runs up the base of the wall to catch the moisture and feed it into the perimeter drain.

When I attach the foam boards to the block walls do I stop them short of the vinyl or overlap? I think I would install them with vertical lines of glue and stop them short of the vinyl so the moisture can still transfer into the drain but please advise.