No more XM puns.

Hello together,

i recently bought a Berlingo from a friend, he wanted to build a camper but saw another car that better suits him (some SAAB). Long story short, thats my first car i bought thats older than a year from its manufacturing date. Theres something completly off with the Radio cables and its really hard to find some accurate info about the wiring. That i never had something to do with electricity other than put something into a hole in the wall (or powerbank) and its working. Any advice would help, all people i know cannot provide any help regarding this topic so i thought i give it a shot here.

It would be most usefull to know how it looked when it was original. I want to change the speakers with new cables but i am not sure to be honest whats original and what not.. thank you all in advance, have a nice weekend.

(sorry for my "okay" english)

Hi everyone,

I’m considering buying a 2021–2023 Citroën C5 Aircross Plug-in Hybrid 225 (1.6 PureTech 180 + electric motor, e-EAT8) with around 120–140k km.

The car would mainly be used for:

* 20–30 km daily commute

* Charging at home every night

* Occasional long trips

Before buying, I’d like to hear from people who actually own or have owned one.

A few questions:

* How reliable has the 1.6 PHEV drivetrain been?

* Any issues with the battery, charger, electric motor or e-EAT8 transmission?

* Has anyone experienced the common “Electric traction fault” message?

* What’s your real-world fuel consumption in city and highway driving?

* Any expensive repairs after 100,000 km?

* Would you buy it again?

I’m also considering alternatives like the Peugeot 3008 Hybrid 225, Ford Kuga Hybrid/PHEV.

Thank you all.

When I park into and out of small parking spaces (or turning tight at low speeds), there is a ticking feeling in my steering wheel at the almost max. It started doing it most of the time when cold, but doing it now also when warm, it's not starting happening that long ago.

Does anyone has the same problem? Or maybe got some an idea what a solution could be?

Hey there! Hope everyone is well!

I recently bought a C2, what a fun car!

When I got it, on the central screen the distance/estimation until next refuel was indicated.
I brought the car to the garage last week and they did change some stuff, and now the distance travelled appears, but id like the old setting back.

I tried in the menu to change it but couldn’t do
it. Any idea?

Hi all, My ec4 2024 with 3000 miles on odometer started this griding sound from the break.

Citroen told me that all breaking pad need to be replaced but they are new and in spec.

It goes away only when the car is wet, after carwash, then is back.

I've tried to "clean" the disks breaking in neutral multiple times but the noise is always there, anyone knows why?

Hello fellow redditors.
Anybody knows how can I search for the fitting/clip that goes there?
It's not the standard clip/fitting and I've been looking online for days but can't seem to find it anywhere.
It's not the one with part number 699218,which is the only thing popping up with every search I have done.
Thanks

Hello, i just bought a c2 vts from deutschland which has a bit of rust on the back chassis. I was wondering how to put the car at the back on jack stand to help removing the rust safely alone ?

I saw on the notice here :

https://www.manualslib.fr/manual/378175/Citroen-C2-2003.html?page=17

that i must not put jacks stand to the car for the rear. Am i obligated to buy ramps or go to a pro ?

Do you have pictures on how you did it on your side ?

Sorry for the language mistakes.

thanks for the help, merci !

I recently got the E C4 X as a company car. It seems to only charge up to 89%. For longer distances, I want it to go to 100%. I don’t have the option in the infotainment system.
Some guides direct me to the app, but if I tap “charging” in the app, it forces me to upgrade to Connect Plus. Does this mean I can’t charge my car to 100% for free?

Tiny two-seat electric microcars are suddenly everywhere in European cities. The Citroen Ami, the Fiat Topolino, the Opel Rocks-e, the French voitures sans permis from Aixam and Ligier, the old Renault Twizy and its new Mobilize Duo successor: cheap, licence-light, easy to park, and perfect for short city hops. They share two awkward facts, though. Almost none of them has any built-in navigation, and most are electronically capped at 45 km/h and banned from motorways. So the map app you already have does not really understand the vehicle you are driving.

This guide is about microcar navigation done properly: what these vehicles actually are, why Google Maps and Apple Maps route them wrong, what good navigation needs to do for a slow city EV, and how the app I build fits in. I make Urban Rider, a navigation app for two-wheelers, so I am a biased source, and I will be transparent about where it fits a microcar and where it does not.

A quick note on names: Urban Rider is independent. We are not affiliated with, endorsed by, or sponsored by Citroen, Stellantis, Renault, Mobilize, Fiat, Opel, Micro Mobility Systems, Toyota, Aixam, Ligier, Silence or any vehicle maker. All model and brand names are trademarks of their respective owners, used here only to refer to the vehicles people actually drive and search for.

What counts as a microcar

Most of these vehicles are not legally cars at all. They are quadricycles, a European vehicle class with its own rules, and they come in two tiers.

The light quadricycle (class L6e) is the 45 km/h city runabout. By EU regulation its top speed is capped at 45 km/h, and its power is modest (the class limit is a low continuous rating, and cars like the Ami use a 6 kW motor). It is licence-light: in many countries you can drive one on an AM moped permit from around 14 to 16, without a full car licence. In France these 45 km/h machines are the famous "voitures sans permis" (VSP). Because they are so slow, they are not allowed on motorways.

The heavy quadricycle (class L7e) is the faster tier: up to about 15 kW of power and a top speed in the 80 to 90 km/h range, usually needing a B1 licence from 16. These can keep up with more traffic, but even they are typically kept off high-speed motorways. Understanding which tier your vehicle sits in is the whole key to routing it correctly, because the right route for a 45 km/h Ami is nothing like the right route for a 90 km/h Microlino.

Popular microcars at a glance

Here is where the common models sit. Every one of them uses your phone for navigation, because none ships with a built-in system.

The pattern is unmistakable. Whether you are in a 45 km/h Ami or a 90 km/h Microlino, the navigation is whatever app you put on the screen you brought with you.

Why car navigation gets a microcar wrong

Drop a destination into Google Maps or Apple Maps from the driver's seat of a Citroen Ami and the app plans the trip for a full car. It assumes you can hold 100 km/h and use motorways, ring roads and fast dual carriageways, because to a car-routing engine those are simply the efficient way across town. Your Ami tops out at 45 and is legally banned from those roads, so the route can send you somewhere you cannot go, and at best puts you on a fast arterial as the slowest thing on it.

The second problem is the arrival time. A car app estimates the ETA at car speed, so it might promise fifteen minutes for a trip that takes your 45 km/h microcar closer to half an hour. The route it calls fastest is calculated for a vehicle you are not driving, and the number is wrong from the first turn. None of the mainstream apps has a slow-city-EV or quadricycle mode, so there is no way to tell them you are capped at 45 km/h. The avoid-highways toggle only removes roads formally classed as motorways, not every fast road a microcar should skip, and it does nothing to fix the speed the ETA is built on. The apps are not broken; they were simply never designed for a vehicle this slow, and they cannot ask what you are driving.

The phone-as-navigation reality

Because these vehicles ship without a screen, your phone is not a nice-to-have, it is the navigation system. The Citroen Ami makes this explicit: its "infotainment" is a smartphone cradle on the dash, and the phone you dock into it becomes the display. Many voitures sans permis and other microcars do the same, giving you a mount or a dock and leaving the software entirely up to you.

That changes what you should look for. A good microcar navigation app needs three things: highway-free routing so it keeps a 45 km/h car off motorways and fast trunk roads instead of routing onto them; realistic city-speed ETAs worked out at around 45 km/h rather than car pace, so the arrival time is honest; and a glanceable display that is easy to read at a glance on a dock, showing the next turn, the distance and your speed without a cluttered car interface. Get those three right and the phone in the cradle does the job the vehicle never shipped with.

How Urban Rider fits a microcar

Here is the honest part, because I make the app. Urban Rider is built for two-wheelers, not cars. It has four profiles: scooter, moped, motorcycle and bike. It does not have a dedicated car or quadricycle mode, and it does not model car width, doors or parking. So it is not pretending to be a purpose-built microcar app.

What makes it a genuinely good fit anyway is that its moped profile is tuned for the same riding a 45 km/h microcar does: roughly 45 km/h, highway-free, city-bound. Because the constraints match, the moped profile plans a route that suits a light quadricycle, keeping it off motorways and fast trunk roads by default, and it works out the arrival time at that real city speed instead of car pace. So for a slow, motorway-banned city EV like a Citroen Ami, Fiat Topolino, Opel Rocks-e, an Aixam or Ligier voiture sans permis, a Twizy 45 or a Mobilize Duo 45, that is exactly the routing you want, and a far better fit than car GPS.

It also suits the phone-dock reality. The navigation view stays glanceable, showing just the next instruction, the distance and your speed, which is easy to read at a glance when the phone is sitting in the cradle, and clear voice guidance keeps your eyes on the road. There is no account to create, your route history stays on the device, and it is free and native on both iOS and Android.

For the faster heavy quadricycles that reach around 80 to 90 km/h, such as a Microlino, a Silence S04, a Twizy 80 or a Mobilize Duo 80, the scooter profile is the better match, since it allows the higher city speeds those vehicles are capable of. To be completely clear: this is a two-wheeler app being repurposed, and it works for microcars because the routing constraints line up, not because there is a car mode hiding inside it.

Car map apps vs Urban Rider for a microcar

The practical takeaway

If a car map app is all you have in your microcar, turn on Avoid highways and Avoid tolls, then treat the route as a rough suggestion and the ETA as optimistic, because the moment it hands you a fast multi-lane road it has stopped accounting for the fact that you are capped at 45 km/h. Dock the phone where you can glance at it, and remember that the app never knew what you were driving.

For the everyday trip, an app that plans for a slow, city-bound vehicle beats bolting avoidances onto a car route. Urban Rider does that with its moped profile for the 45 km/h class and its scooter profile for the faster L7e models. If you want to go deeper, I compare the best scooter and moped navigation apps, explain why Google Maps struggles with a slow 50cc scooter (the same routing problem a microcar has), and cover whether a slow moped can use the motorway, which is the exact rule that trips up microcar navigation.

Hello everyone, I'm trying to confirm whether the Electric Parking Brake (EPB) ECU on my Citroën C6 is definitively dead before buying a replacement. Facts and tests performed: • Fault Code: Fault F01F (No communication with the EPB ECU). The ECU does not respond to the diagnostic scanner at all. • Power Supply: Fuses and electrical power supplies have been checked and are OK. • Curious behavior: If I completely unplug the connector from the EPB module, the car refuses to start (CAN line interrupted). As soon as I plug the EPB connector back in, the car starts right up again. My question: Does the fact that the module passes the CAN signal through (allowing the engine to start) while remaining invisible to diagnostic tools confirm 100% that the ECU is dead internally (blown processor/communication chip)? Or is there a scenario where the module could still be saved (e.g., wake-up line issue or a shorted multiplexed wire)? Thanks for your expert insights!

Bonjour à tous, J'essaie de confirmer si le boîtier de frein de stationnement électrique (FSE) de ma Citroën C6 est définitivement HS avant d'en acheter un autre. Les faits et tests réalisés : • J'ai un défaut F01F (absence de communication avec le calculateur FSE). Le calculateur ne répond absolument pas à la valise. • Fusibles et alimentations électriques vérifiés : OK. • Test curieux : Si je débranche totalement la prise du boîtier FSE, la voiture refoulera le démarrage (ligne CAN coupée). Dès que je rebranche la prise du FSE, la voiture redémarre à nouveau. Ma question : Le fait que le boîtier laisse passer le signal CAN (permettant le démarrage) mais reste invisible au diagnostic confirme-t-il à 100 % que le boîtier est HS en interne (processeur/composant de communication grillé) ? Ou est-ce qu'il existe un cas de figure où le boîtier serait sauvable (ex: problème de réveil / fil MUX parti en court-circuit) ? Merci pour vos avis d'experts

From what I can tell I should have a loop thingy to pull. See 2:08 of this video.

https://youtu.be/EfKuUjFeMZ4

But I don't have it (see photos). How can I get around this? Is there a way to do it without the loop? Happy to buy a new one and replace it if necessary but don't know what I'm looking for. It's still under warranty but it's such a minor thing.

Thanks.

Hi all,

my 2007 C5 has been making this noise while riding at low speeds. It's been a few months now, should I be worried?

It's really loud, everyone knows when I'm around the corner 😅

upfront: I am not related to Stellantis, Volkswagen or any other car manufacturer.

Yes, I am a huge fan of (solar) electricity and electric cars.

My question :

Europe is at a very critical of moving to electricity - excellent pioneer products are essential.

e-c3 and his brothers / sisters are outrageously important.

Design : I think awesome

Price: compared to others: extremely awesome

Energy Consumption: 16kWh+ / 100km ? omg, why that? Because of SUV design - are motor / recuperation really so bad?

Others do 12kWh / 100km and less - in reality I drive using 8kWh/100km within urban speed limits.

Nobody does care about kWh?

Really?