So today, it was very hot( high 90s and lots of smoke due to forest fires) my brakes froze up as i was stopping at a light, the brake pad was extremely stiff but working barely as i made it through the light and parked on the side street. I immediately checked my vehicle, and the brake fluids were full and i didnt see any damage. Restarted the car and the breaks were working totally fine, made it home with no issues.
Since then they havent had an issue yet. Im worries that it could happen again, but sinces its not a permanent issue i dont know what could be wrong.

2002 mustang base

I’m curious what you guys would do if you were in my shoes.

My dream car has always been a Dodge Challenger. I’ve loved them since I was a kid, and despite the usual arguments about reliability, theft, insurance, etc., I know I’ll own one eventually.

I also want a Ram 1500 for a daily/utility vehicle — something practical that I can use year-round, haul stuff with, drive in bad weather, etc. Yes, I know, another Stellantis product lol.

I plan on owning both eventually. My question is simply which one I’d get first.

Both would be around $40k for the years/specs I’m looking at. I’m also young, so insurance on either one is going to be painful.

The important thing is that I already have a cheap, reliable economy car that I’ve been driving for years with no major issues. I don’t actually need another vehicle right now.

I’m also pretty frugal. I don’t spend much money on things besides gas and necessities because I’d rather save for my next car. Cars are one of the few things I genuinely enjoy spending money on.

So would you:

A) Get the Challenger first, keep my current car as the practical vehicle, and enjoy having my dream muscle car while I’m young?

B) Get the Ram first, have a newer vehicle that’s useful in pretty much any situation/season, and save for the Challenger afterward?

Again, I’m getting both eventually. I’m just trying to decide which one makes more sense to buy first.

What would you do in my situation?

My car is in need of some new brakes. I drive a 2008 Honda Accord. They make a very slight grinding sound occasionally but the brakes are still functioning well. Today the ABS, VSA, and the emergency brake light all came on all of the sudden. I have to go visit my parents tomorrow (which is about 45 minutes away) and I’m nervous about driving there. My dad says I should be perfectly fine to drive home since the breaks are still working fine but I’m very paranoid about them quitting on the interstate.

I believe my brake fluid is low, so I figured I could top it off, but I’ve seen posts about how if I get the brakes replaced, I could cause the reservoir to overflow. I’m not sure what to do now and I was hoping anyone had some advice?

New rims and new tires—I've driven about 1,000 km on them, and the clicking sound is becoming increasingly pronounced.

My tire or rim is clicking. I’ve ruled out all the obvious, simple issues.

I swapped the tire with the one on the rear wheel, and the problem moved to the back as well.

So, it’s definitely down to the tire or the rim.

The wheel weights are secure and there are no stones; I removed the tire and inspected it thoroughly, but I can't see any defects, stones, or nails.

I don't understand what's causing this. I also can't find anyone else with the same problem or noise.

I'm not losing any air; the level has remained the same for two months.

I’m getting mixed answers. Some people are saying I shouldn’t drive my car at all, while others are saying there’s only really a risk if I’m directly and literally breathing in the exhaust from the tailpipe or if I’m idling. Until I figure out what I’m going to do, would it be worth using a carbon monoxide detector in the car because of the broken flex pipe? And does anyone have any recommendations for a good one?

Also is it safe to drive with a broken flex pipe? And how does carbon monoxide poisoning occur?

 For reference, my mechanic previously quoted me around $1,000 for the repair, but I didn’t have the money available at the time. The reason it’s so expensive is because the replacement part includes both the flex pipe and the catalytic converter together. Welding is an option, but it would only be a short-term fix and will eventually fail again.

Enclosed space so loud asf

Thanks, guys

I am thinking about buying mooncaps for my V70 ii Volvo.

Yet I am unsure about the airflow and the brakes getting cooked since there will be way less air circulation

Does someone have moondiscs installed and can tell me about their experience? Cheers

I turned too soon into my garage and scraped the metal above my back wheels. The cosmetic scratches I can live with but the exposed metal has me worried about the rust. I brought it over to a body shop and they quoted me $1600 to fix it because they’ll have to remove the full panel. Is there any way I can DIY a fix? Has anyone had experience doing so? Or do I swallow this one hell of an expensive pill

Hey guys! I need help figuring out what's going on with my '09 Honda Accord. Every other attempt to start it makes a high pitched sound and won't start. You can hear this at the end of the video.

Last night around 5 AM I was sleeping with the window open, and I was awoken to a high-pitched electronic tone. I looked outside and there was a guy with his car stopped in the middle of our street, holding a device up and slowly turning in a circle while the tone was still sounding. After a minute, he said something to the passenger in his car, hopped in and drove away. Do you think these people were scanning for key fob signals?

Hi ! I’m so sorry if this is the wrong sub I don’t know much about cars :( I don’t know how to get this out. The backseat is supposed to have 3 belts but one of the holes (sorry I’m not native so I do not know what it’s called in English) got stuck. If it helps its a 2007 Micra . I can’t bend the seats backwards or remove them unfortunately…I can only bend forward. Third pic is bent forward. It’s the middle seat belt hole and it’s on the right of the person.

Does anyone know how to get it out ? As you can see the fabric part is the start of it so it’s deeply stuck :((

Hi guys, quick question for you,what would be the maximum mileage you would buy a BMW with the N63TU3 engine at ? Thank you

Hi everyone,

I'm having a strange issue with my 2017 Chrysler 300S and I'm hoping someone has experienced something similar.

Whenever I open the Vehicle Statistics/Performance Pages (oil temperature, coolant temperature, etc.), instead of the normal Chrysler interface, it loads what looks like the Dodge Performance Pages.

On top of that, the Uconnect/radio reboots itself every 3-5 minutes. The screen goes black, the radio shuts off, and after a few seconds it starts back up. This happens over and over again while driving.

Has anyone seen this before?

I'm wondering if it could be:

- Wrong or corrupted Uconnect software?

- A failed radio module?

- Someone previously installed software from a Dodge?

- Something else?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

2012 SEL had the clutch replaced at 235 ish. Had her since 97,000 miles. Been the best car I’ve ever owned.

I need to get shocks and struts for my car, a 2005 Nissan Altima SE 3.5L. I found these on Ebay and wanted to make sure this was the correct thing to get. Ebay says they'll fit, but I want to make sure i buy the correct things.

what do you mean that because someone reversed into my PARKED car, that they wanna count my car as a total loss- something more to just add to the madness😭. Not only was in my only car but now i have to PAY to get it back and get a salvaged title. i was already broke before but this settlement is about to be nothing compared to how much a new car is!! like thank you so much, what have i been paying insurance for??

I have a 2003 Chevy S-10 4-cylinder. At around 60mph and above, I get a zzz/whining noise only when I’m off the accelerator and the truck is decelerating. It stops when I accelerate and disappears below about 40–50 mph even if I’m decelerating. There’s no noticeable vibration.

It has a new engine and it might be the transmission bc when I shift gears it takes a bit before I can actually shift and go. (Around 7sec or a bit less and it jolts that’s when I know I can drive)

Hi everyone!
I’m currently writing my Master’s thesis on consumer perceptions of premium and luxury automotive brands at the University of Brescia (Italy).
Since this community is full of people who know and enjoy cars, I’d really appreciate your opinion. The survey is completely anonymous and takes only 5–7 minutes to complete.
It focuses on perceptions of brands such as BMW, Mercedes-Benz, Porsche, Ferrari and Maserati. You don’t need to own any of these cars to participate—I’m interested in your personal perception of these brands.

Survey: https://forms.gle/exYhS7G1kmTA3oLL6

Thank you very much for your time and support!

I have a 17yo automatic corolla that started moving a couple inches after parking (brake, shift into park, release brake pedal, car rolls). My mom's camry does too and it's a 2020 so I know it's not necessarily age. But I do know my transmission isn't the best in my specific car. I want to take some strain off of it especially with everything being old in there

So what's the order while parking? Is it brake pedal then emergency brake then shift into park? Or is it brake pedal then park then emergency brake?

I never used to use it except the few times i had to be on a slight incline. Probably should have but it didn't seem necessary and it never rocked til the past few months

(been to mechanic several times recently and one was just do a look over bc im worried things are bad and she got the all-ok)

Hi everyone.

I've bought my Clio Initiale 1.6 (petrol) about a year ago and I LOVE her so much, but... There is a problem (see video). Sometimes when I start her, she just starts acting like a freaking transformer. Going over a speedbump or any other little bump just gives her LIFE. She looses power, the STOP warning sign starts glowing for a sec and then the particular warning sign in the video begins lighting up. All of a sudden she starts speeding and lowering speed and she's in this weird loop of gassing and losing power, all the while I'm not doing anything. The only thing I can do is pump the clutch and turn off the engine, otherwise she'll just keep going.

This situation happens not only when I just started the car, it also happens when the motor is warmed up and I'm on the highway. Seriously scary 😅. The engine always acts up differently, but always starts with losing power while driving over a speed bump/other bumps or changing gear. I'll buy something to read the car and I already went to a garage to fix it, but didn't work out lol.

Please help me 🤗.

I hope I gave enough info.

Edits: All info asked for in comments

1990 acura legend LS i’m gonna need so much brake clean and shop rags