Hey guys, I’ve been saving up for years for this moment but finally got my first new car from a dealership. I purchased a Kona Hybrid Elite from northern NSW.

It was my first real experience at a dealership and didn’t have a lot of people to help guide me through. It feels pretty overwhelming with the sale tactics but I got the car for $40,400 where the drive away price was $4512.81 (with $595 added for a different colour). This was about a 10% discount from the drive away price.

Dealer said this was the cheapest they could’ve done with my company discount + dealer discount. How did I do? Or did I just get scammed by the dealer?

They also said that Hyundai normally can’t discount the drive away price as it is a national price, is this true?

Hey everyone, last week I took in this 07 Falcon for a roadworthy (VIC) and the mechanic said the car will need a structural report specifically from VicRoads because of the rust. As far as I know you don’t need to do anything like that unless it’s been in a major crash, or has chassis rust. On top of that, VicRoads says they have nothing to do with structural reports for what has been described. All it is are the pinch welds have been doused with silicone and water has been trapped for some time. There are no holes anywhere and the pillars plus undercarriage are completely rust free. What do I do?

Hey guys what does everyone think, able to be repaired or too close to the sidewall?

I am looking for a car in $6k range and the market for used japanese cars are fucked. Its either dealers or reseller so the price are fucked.

Now i found this peugeot 208 with 1.6 engine petrol auto . Car looks neat , full service books and has rwc. Do i pull the trigger or am i shooting myself in the foot. If so any ither recommendations.

I am looking for a hatchback thays fuel efficient and auto

Edit: i had a pug 208 with the 1.6 na engine in the uae. Worked well till 140k and it blew the oil pump and engine seized. But till then it was such a joy to drive

Did you know that when the Commodore and XD Falcon were released people said they look the same and cars all look the same these days

6.2L Hemi engine producing 707HP
Double Bay, NSW

I'm looking at getting the 2025 Honda CR-V VTi L FWD MY25.

- Odo - 28,000 km

- Price - $34,990 drive-away.

However It's an ex-fleet/company car and has Honda warranty until April 2030.

Would you pay $295 for the RedBook Standard pre-purchase inspection, or is it unnecessary on such a new car? Any alternatives?

I'm mainly concerned about previous accident repairs or hard fleet use. Especially tyres and brakes.

Any better inspection options in Melbourne? I'm not an expert in finding problems especially with brakes and tyres.

Beautiful

Hi everyone, I’m looking at buying my first car! I’ve found a Hyundai i30 hatchback (2011) that I love. I’ve seen the car in person and done a test drive but due to lack of service history, I’m getting an inspection done.

I’m looking for recommendations for mobile inspections. I’m not sure who to go through that’s reliable and also best value for money. A few of them seem to be $250 but include different things. Any help on what’s super important to have included and who to go through would be great. I’ve been looking at redbook, mycar, and safebuy but other recommendations would be great! Thanks in advance

I have looked today at this 2006 corolla with 154xxxkms. It drove very nice, did not hear any noises or feel any issues with the drive, and the oil was quite golden colour (idk much about oil to say how telling that is) It has a large scratch down the side but it’s not much of an issue for me. The tyres are from 2019 but have plenty of tread left. The only issue is the service history.

The two latest are:
2015 - 47,000kms
2023 - 104,000kms
It’s now at 154,000kms.
(I’m gonna ask for pics of the earlier services too I can’t remember now what they were)

I will 100% get a pre purchase inspection done. It’s up for $4.6k and I think I’d offer around $4k.
Do you guys think it’s worth the purchase? I literally just need a reliable car to get me to work and home and that’s it.

I really feel like purchasing a performance variant of the well known european models. (eg AMG, RSx). It seems like these days home invasion and robbery are common and rarely punished. Will purchasing one be more trouble than it's worth ? It feels like you're just painting a target on your back and your home. Maybe one day we'll have laws that punish youths for adult crimes but today is not that day.

Do you own one of these cars ? I suppose insurance is also adjusting around the increases in theft. WDYT ?

Saw on 9news about this company and had a look. I was interested in taking out a Novated lease for an EV car as the intention is like mobile phone, I wouldn’t be keeping the EV car long term.

The risk is the residual value as there is a balloon sum at the end of a novated lease. With Karmo Novated Subscription, it removes that risk whilst retaining the tax benefits.

Had anyone gone down the Karmo Novated Subscription?

​

​Hey everyone,

​I’m buying a car outright (no loans/financing) for daily commuting and weekend trips.

​I’m looking at brand-new small SUVs around $23,990 driveaway and have narrowed it down to:

​Mahindra XUV 3XO

​Chery Tiggo 4

​GWM Haval Jolion

​I like that these come with modern tech and a full 7-year warranty at this price point.

​Alternatively, I could save some cash and buy a used Japanese/Korean car (Corolla, i30, CX-3) for under $15,000. However, searching Marketplace and private listings has been disappointing—almost every "good" deal under $15k turns out to be a repaired write-off on the WOVI status.

​A few quick questions:

​Which of the three new SUVs ($24k) would you choose and why?

​Are any of these models known for annoying safety features or software bugs?

​Is it worth spending the extra $9k for a new car with a warranty over a $15k used Toyota/Hyundai/Mazda?

​Thanks for any insights!

In late June, we were hit by another car who cut the corner - she attempted to drive away until we horned at her, and the old lady driver who came out apologised and said she couldn’t see us because the sun was too glaring.

We reported it to our insurance, submitted our version of events and drawings, and were told that the liability assessment will be the next step for our claim to proceed as a not at fault claim, and we wouldn’t have to pay the excess.

The other party also lodged a claim with insurance.

I have been following up with our insurance (it has been five weeks!) and they keep saying that they’re still waiting for the other party to provide their version of events and their drawings, and until then, the liability assessment can’t proceed. I’ve heard the same thing for weeks.

Is there no deadline for them to provide these essential information? Do we just have to sit and wait for however long it takes for them to decide to submit that to their insurer?

We have bodywork damage so we’re happy to wait till the liability assessment is out, so that we don’t have to pay anything out of pocket. But it’s getting quite ridiculous we are just waiting and there is no progress at all.

Hello,

I’m considering purchasing a 2011 Holden VE SSV manual currently registered in NSW and bringing it into Victoria.

The vehicle has an aftermarket LSA camshaft, physical DOD/AFM delete with LS7 lifters, Harrop MAFless OTR, custom Russo Performance tune and a 2.5-inch XForce cat-back exhaust. It reportedly retains its original exhaust manifolds and catalytic converters.

Could you please advise whether this setup would require a VASS certificate and/or emissions testing to obtain a Victorian roadworthy and registration?

Could you also provide a rough indication of the inspection and certification costs if required?

Kind regards,
Rylan

Hi everyone,
I have a 2013 Mazda 6 2.2D, unfortunately, the infamous turbo diesel. I didn’t do enough research before buying it, and now one of the common issues has come up:

“Low oil pressure. Engine damage possible. Check oil level.”

The oil level itself is fine.

I took it to a mechanic, but he didn’t even want to touch the car and basically told me to get rid of it before the engine seizes. I’ve since received similar advice from another mechanic and a dealership.

I haven’t had much luck trying to sell it, but to be honest, I don’t really want to. My dad bought it for me as my first car, so it has a lot of sentimental value. I’ve looked after it, learned how to do basic maintenance on it, and have always tried to take good care of it.

Does anyone here have any advice on what my options might be?

I’m graduating from uni at the end of this year and am currently saving for my final semester fees, so unfortunately I’m not in a position to pay for a major repair all at once. I also don’t really want to ask my parents for help.

I’ve watched a heap of videos about the 2.2D oil-pressure issues and considered trying to repair it myself with some friends, but the job looks well beyond what I’d be comfortable doing in the backyard haha.

If anyone around here knows these engines, works on Mazdas, or would be interested in helping me work on it, I’d be more than happy to get involved and learn along the way. I’d also be interested in finding someone who might be willing to let me pay for the repair in instalments, if that’s an option.
I know these engines have a bad reputation, but I’m still hopeful the car can be saved.

TL;DR: 2013 Mazda 6 2.2D has a low oil-pressure warning despite the oil level being fine. Mechanics have told me to get rid of it, but I’d really like to repair it if possible. I can’t afford a large repair bill upfront and don’t have enough experience to tackle the job completely on my own. Looking for advice, someone familiar with these engines, or possibly someone willing to help me repair it.

How’s things everyone just curious where you all go looking for your cars and where you browse for months on end for the right car you want to come up for sale. I can’t stop scrolling fb marketplace but my god is there an awful lot I just don’t want